Buffer RPMs and greaseless compound

BillEllis said:

It's always been my understanding that the controller you illustrate won't work. It may burn up your motor. That's what I have been told, anyway. I could be wrong. I'd like to be wrong on this one because the controllers that do work for sure start at $1,000.

The buffer, at $45, looks like a steal, but it's also only 1/2 horse. You'd be able to stop that one from spinning with any kind of force against the wheel at all. It might be ok if you go lightly and slowly. Anyone who has one should chime in.

My Baldor is a 3/4 horse and I can bog it down a bit at times, but it has enough power most of the time. One like mine will run you right at $500. Google around... maybe somebody can find a 115v/60h on the cheap and let us know. It's very helpful to have the long spindles. I also put a tapered spindle attachment on the left side of mine for quick-change capability of buffs

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Yeah, I've read that those controllers will burn out buffer motors as well. I dont remember type of motor that a buffer has, but it isn't supposed to play nice with a speed controller like that.

I actually just got one of those harbor freight buffers, it seems to work fine. Having owned it about two weeks, I'm definitely not an expert, but I really havent had any problems with it slowing down b/c of pressure. As a matter of fact, I tried to bog the wheel down with greaseless to try to get it to stick better and had some trouble doing it. I may have gotten lucky though, I think harbor freight tools are hit or miss. The motor does seem to get really hot, though. Don't know if thats normal or not.

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If you keep an eye out you can prolly get that harbor freight buffer for even less. I got mine for about 36$. Harbor Freight has coupons everywhere. If you do a google search for a store near you you might get a "20% off any item in store" coupon through google offers. Thats what I got.

I was wondering if it was just me doing something wrong because icant keep greaseless compound on my wheels to save my life, guess I'm just trying to run a buffer faster than I should be... I guess I'll have to set something aside and try to pickup a slower machine.

Any tips to apply compound for those of us running too fast? Or are we pretty much SOL and need to change to a different buffer?

amcardon said:

I was wondering if it was just me doing something wrong because icant keep greaseless compound on my wheels to save my life, guess I'm just trying to run a buffer faster than I should be... I guess I'll have to set something aside and try to pickup a slower machine.

Any tips to apply compound for those of us running too fast? Or are we pretty much SOL and need to change to a different buffer?

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There is some paste that is sold to help keep it on more but I think it's worthless YMMV. Let me ask you this; how long are you waiting after you apply the compound before you use it?

If you're doing it soon after, there's your problem. I load mine the day before and with moist weather it may take a little longer so just keep it in a dry location like a tub. It's going to come off but shouldn't be splattering. Always keep wheels loaded with different grits and compounds so you're ready to go.

This is my Paige buffer which I bought used from a friend of a late jewelry maker. It doesn't have a speed rating so that's why I posted it in the hopes that someone can tell me what the rpm rating is on these jeweler buffers. It's got a work light, a strong ventilation system and space for a filter at back. I love this buffer and use it indoors in a bedroom that I've converted over to my workshop. I do have to cover the floor with newspaper but other than that I don't see any reason why I can't use it indoors. So far I've been really careful and haven't had anything hurt me; however I have had two blades get snatched out of my hands and flung towards the back of the metal casing. It's relatively easy for me to change wheels because I can just twist the wheels on without any tools.

amcardon said:

I was wondering if it was just me doing something wrong because icant keep greaseless compound on my wheels to save my life, guess I'm just trying to run a buffer faster than I should be... I guess I'll have to set something aside and try to pickup a slower machine.

Any tips to apply compound for those of us running too fast? Or are we pretty much SOL and need to change to a different buffer?

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If you google it you'll find some.

The two I found that work for me are--

1- Turn the buffer off then jam the compound into the wheel. You'll need to do it a few times to get a good coat, and wait a few seconds between so the compound will dry enough not to fly off

2- Jam the compound into the wheel and turn the buffer on, using the compound to bog the wheel down and stopping the RPMs from getting too high. Then you cut off the buffer before taking the compound stick off the wheel. You dont want it to get up to speed with the fresh compound cause it'll fling it off.

With both you still need to wait about 15 min for it to dry completely. The second method may be damaging to the buffer motor and cause it to burn out faster, so use it at your own risk. I try to stick to 1, usually.

rambus007 said:

This is my Paige buffer which I bought used from a friend of a late jewelry maker. It doesn't have a speed rating so that's why I posted it in the hopes that someone can tell me what the rpm rating is on these jeweler buffers. It's got a work light, a strong ventilation system and space for a filter at back. I love this buffer and use it indoors in a bedroom that I've converted over to my workshop. I do have to cover the floor with newspaper but other than that I don't see any reason why I can't use it indoors. So far I've been really careful and haven't had anything hurt me; however I have had two blades get snatched out of my hands and flung towards the back of the metal casing. It's relatively easy for me to change wheels because I can just twist the wheels on without any tools.

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Sweet machine!

2 hits on google gives 3450rpm for Paige jewelry buffers.
However, that isn't your exact machine
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/paige-dayton-professional-lapidary-79576802
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/paige-4-inch-high-speed-jewelry-buffer

Somewhat similar machine, also 3450rpm
http://www.covington-engineering.com/jewelry_buffers.htm

check around some more here:
http://www.google.com/search?q=jewelry+buffer

honed said:

Sweet machine!

2 hits on google gives 3450rpm for Paige jewelry buffers.
However, that isn't your exact machine
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/paige-dayton-professional-lapidary-79576802
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/paige-4-inch-high-speed-jewelry-buffer

Somewhat similar machine, also 3450rpm
http://www.covington-engineering.com/jewelry_buffers.htm

check around some more here:
http://www.google.com/search?q=jewelry+buffer

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I think the one from covington is the updated version of what I have. Sigh it's too fast. Oh well I'll just use it very carefully. I know it's awefully fast but I can't do my buffing in the house rather than in my garage hehe. Not bad I guess for $100 eh?

Thanks for the replies - I am waiting till it's completely dry but, like mentioned, it is rotating so fast it just flings it off and leaves very little behind...

Pete T - I'm going to give #1 a go! Thanks for the tips!

amcardon said:

Thanks for the replies - I am waiting till it's completely dry but, like mentioned, it is rotating so fast it just flings it off and leaves very little behind...

Pete T - I'm going to give #1 a go! Thanks for the tips!

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I do #1 as well but I never thought about letting it dry so long. Will have to try that next time.

amcardon said:

Thanks for the replies - I am waiting till it's completely dry but, like mentioned, it is rotating so fast it just flings it off and leaves very little behind...

Pete T - I'm going to give #1 a go! Thanks for the tips!

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What are your wheels made of? I use spiral sewn cotton and have no problems with material staying on. I can apply and leave the buffer spinning and nothing spins off.

I did buy some sisal wheels to try to use black emory on them and for the life of me nothing will stick to them. I just stick with the spiral sewn cotton wheels for both my greaseless compounds and rogues.

I leave mine overnight, not that it may matter but I've never had issues with it.

Harvitz81 said:

What are your wheels made of? I use spiral sewn cotton and have no problems with material staying on. I can apply and leave the buffer spinning and nothing spins off.

I did buy some sisal wheels to try to use black emory on them and for the life of me nothing will stick to them. I just stick with the spiral sewn cotton wheels for both my greaseless compounds and rogues.

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I've tried it on loose and spiral sewn cotton... For all I know I'm using the wrong greaseless compound, I'm using stuff I got from Eastwood...

My buffer is from Caswell, i use thier greaseless as well. It runs in the 3400 rpm range also. I have one of those harbor frieght controlers, while it does slow it down, it loses all its torque.
To load the wheels, i first hit them real quick with a wheel rake, the. I take the greasless and lightly press it on the wheel for about 2 seconds, movi g from left to right. I wait a mi ute and coat again from right to left. I wait about 3-5 minutes and use it. I usually do not reaplly for a couple of razors. But it all depends how bad of shape its in.

Nerdman said:

My buffer is from Caswell, i use thier greaseless as well. It runs in the 3400 rpm range also. I have one of those harbor frieght controlers, while it does slow it down, it loses all its torque.
To load the wheels, i first hit them real quick with a wheel rake, the. I take the greasless and lightly press it on the wheel for about 2 seconds, movi g from left to right. I wait a mi ute and coat again from right to left. I wait about 3-5 minutes and use it. I usually do not reaplly for a couple of razors. But it all depends how bad of shape its in.

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Amazing that you can do a couple razors on one wheel. I find when I start on the spine and tang that the material comes off rather quick and I always have to reload for another razor though.

Never an issue as I only do one razor at a time up through the greaseless and rogues so the wheels are plenty dry for the next razor by the time I get to it.

Harvitz81 said:

Amazing that you can do a couple razors on one wheel. I find when I start on the spine and tang that the material comes off rather quick and I always have to reload for another razor though.

Never an issue as I only do one razor at a time up through the greaseless and rogues so the wheels are plenty dry for the next razor by the time I get to it.

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I use most of the greaseless on the blade first and i always try todo the spine and tang last. It cleans off the material and leaves a nice surface for new greasless to stick to!
Sometimes i do 5 or more blades at once. Especially when I have a lot to get done, ill run all the blades thru each grit together so then i can clean up and not make a mess over and over again.

The only variable speed grinders/buffers I am seeing locally available only go down to 2000RPM... is that close enough or still too fast?

Also, with a choice between 6" and 8", would the 8" be the one? Or will 6" be big enough?

Munxcub said:

The only variable speed grinders/buffers I am seeing locally available only go down to 2000RPM... is that close enough or still too fast?

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You could do it with a higher one (to a point) but just takes a more cautious approach.

Also, with a choice between 6" and 8", would the 8" be the one? Or will 6" be big enough?

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I think this is one of those cases where size doesn't matter.

azmark said:

You could do it with a higher one (to a point) but just takes a more cautious approach.


I think this is one of those cases where size doesn't matter.

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So dialing it down to 2k would be better than 3600, but not as safe as 1750. That about the jist?

Would a bigger wheel help delay overheating, due to more surface area. Kind of like a bandsaw blade over a scroll saw blade?

Munxcub said:

So dialing it down to 2k would be better than 3600, but not as safe as 1750. That about the jist?

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Yes.

Would a bigger wheel help with overheating, due to more surface area. Kind of like a bandsaw blade over a scroll saw blade?[/QUOTE]

Never thought about it like that but it makes sense. Or you can look at it as you apply more product on an 8" rather than a 6". I think any way you'll be fine but never be complacent with any product, always check the razor as you're working with it.

No.
A larger wheel will cause more, not less, heat. You're not worrying about the wheel heating up. You should be worrying about the blade. A larger wheel leads to a faster speed and that translates to more heat.