Is there anything that can't be restored?

**Fletch** · 12-22-2010, 11:06 AM

I was looking around on the bay and noticed that there are a few razors with no scales that are available. I'm toying with the idea of re doing a razor(s) for myself. As a hobbyist knife maker I have more scale material than I probably need. All various types of burls many of which have been stabilized, and probably more jade G11 than I'll likely ever need in my lifetime. So I'm thinking about trying to use some of that material to possibly make a few razors. I feel I'm fairly adept at finishing up scales. What I lack however is the knowledge of restoring the steel. Any work I've done with knives involves starting with bar stock and going from there. So what I'm hoping to avoid is getting something only to find out that there is no way it can be made new looking again.

What I was really thinking about was just doing the scale work, and having someone from here who is well received to handle the steel, honing, and shave ready aspect. Which also leads me to the question: Is it best to have the razor completely ready before doing the scales? Or do you just want it cleaned up, then scaled, then the final sharpening?

The second one seems to make the most sense to me since when I make a knife the process goes: Get the blade ready for sharpening, do the scales, then sharpen. I'm guessing the process is similar but just curious.

**Drybonz** · 12-22-2010, 11:09 AM

I have seen quite a few ebay specials that I wouldn't look at twice because they are obviously disfigured. There is probably somebody out there that can bring life back to these things somehow, but it doesn't seem worth the trouble to me.

That being said... I have also seen a lot that seem like they could be restored.

**Munxcub** · 12-22-2010, 11:14 AM

If it wasn't obviously buggered, like big chips, cracks, warped or wacked out shapes from decades of bad honing... you're probably ok with enough elbow grease. Things like rust, can be fixed. If the rust is bad on the cutting edge maybe avoid it, unless it's mega cheap and you won't be sad if it's a lost cause.

**Harvitz81** · 12-22-2010, 02:22 PM

In general heavier grind razors (i.e 1/2 hollows to wedges) are easier to restore as if there is pitting you have metal available to remove it.

If there is pitting on a full hollow you may be able to remove some, but you risk ruining the blade as the metal is extremely thin in areas.

If hand sanding then expect to spend many hours trying to remove pitting. For something to start off with I would look for razors with just surface blemishes or water spots - things that can mostly be removed with just some buffing.

**Legion** · 12-22-2010, 02:35 PM

To answer your question, normally you would restore the blade, then make the scales, then hone. Not honing will reduce the risk of damaging the edge when fitting the scales, and the scales being on will help when holding the razor during honing.

**Luc** · 12-28-2010, 08:12 PM

I had a couple that died in the process. Chipped the blade in the middle and it's too deep to be restored. Warped blade, metal has too much pitting, so much that it would go from a 6/8 to a 3/8 to take an edge, etc...

**onimaru55** · 12-31-2010, 10:22 PM

If you're looking at eBay make sure the pics are clear , large enough & you can see both sides of the blade. Any dark spots near & /or immediately above the edge are likely to become chips when honing. Best to leave those alone unless you like gambling.
Also look for excess uneven hone wear which may mean a warped blade.

**johnmrson** · 01-01-2011, 12:17 AM

You can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear. You've got to have a solid base to start with.

**azmark** · 01-01-2011, 08:54 AM

Originally Posted by Fletch

Is it best to have the razor completely ready before doing the scales? Or do you just want it cleaned up, then scaled, then the final sharpening?

You can have it done either way but don't hone until it's in it's scales and just use some MAAS to get the final smudges out of the blade that you may have left by your hands.

Restoring steal is easier for me but YMMV. Scales, I have little patience for and usually don't rescale but just restore the originals to a polish. Steel though is fun to work with buffers but it gets a little hairy at times but getting something that looked like it was buried for centuries to a mirror image is pretty rewarding.