Technique : Use razor weight and aggressive blade, or use arm and lesser blade ?

As a newbie this month using a Merkur 34C razor and a blade sampler pack of nine brands , and trying to use the recommended technique of letting the weight of the razor move the blade across the face , I have a few
thoughts :

(1) For me so far, the weight of the razor does not move the blade through the facial hair at all when using the least aggressive blades in the sampler pack. I have used just two of the brands so far but am hopeful the more aggressive brands will allow me to use the recommended technique.

(2) Do some users like to shave with a less aggressive blade and use "improper" technique of pulling the razor across face with arm rather than weight of the razor ? Do some users favor pulling the razor across face more times rather than using a single pass and more aggressive blade which could occasionally cut them on certain days if careless or in a hurry ?


If feel as though I am potentially developing some bad technique habits by working forward through the less aggressive blades in the sampler , pulling the razor rather than letting the razor move itself.

The razor will not actually move by itself. You need to use your arm to move it. Where it may have gotten confusing is you do not want to apply pressure to the razor. The weight of the razor alone setting on your face is all you want.

If you have not checked out mantic59's videos on YouTube, I would really suggest you do that. It gives you a great visual on how to move the razor while keeping your wrist locked.

Good luck to you, and welcome aboard!

+1 on what Scott said.

There is a difference in pushing the razor against your face while pulling and just pulling the razor along your face. With a good lubricating lather, just pulling without pressure works.

Welcome aboard!

-jim

HDStreetGlide said:

The razor will not actually move by itself. You need to use your arm to move it. Where it may have gotten confusing is you do not want to apply pressure to the razor. The weight of the razor alone setting on your face is all you want.

If you have not checked out mantic59's videos on YouTube, I would really suggest you do that. It gives you a great visual on how to move the razor while keeping your wrist locked.

Good luck to you, and welcome aboard!

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+1 That's the right answer!

Pushing in - bad.
Pulling down - good.

Think about holding the razor a consistent one molecule's width above your skin while smoothly moving it across your face. That's the pressure you want.

I guess I'm in the minority here but I use a little pressure. It does depend on the razor and the blades and maybe a little on the shaving soap. I use a mergress with a Shark SS blade. I start with a setting a little agressive (about 3) going down with the grain, then change to a more mild setting, just under 2 for against the grain and accross the grain. Since I use a more mild setting, I really don't have an issue with applying a little bit of pressure. This in turn gives me a closer shave.

I've used other blades. The Lord Platinum works just as well as the Shark SS for me. Derby and Red Personnas are comfortable, but don't get quite as close. I think they're too mild. I find the Feather too aggressive for me, but that may be due to my technique.

I recently got a gold Merkur slant. I find I have to change my technique to no pressure or I'll get nicks. Red Personnas seem to work the best with the slant. I still can't get close on the upper lip because I can't apply any pressure without getting cut. I think the slant is just not for me with the way I shave.

edwinguz said:

I guess I'm in the minority here but I use a little pressure. It does depend on the razor and the blades and maybe a little on the shaving soap. I use a mergress with a Shark SS blade. I start with a setting a little agressive (about 3) going down with the grain, then change to a more mild setting, just under 2 for against the grain and accross the grain. Since I use a more mild setting, I really don't have an issue with applying a little bit of pressure. This in turn gives me a closer shave.

I've used other blades. The Lord Platinum works just as well as the Shark SS for me. Derby and Red Personnas are comfortable, but don't get quite as close. I think they're too mild. I find the Feather too aggressive for me, but that may be due to my technique.

I recently got a gold Merkur slant. I find I have to change my technique to no pressure or I'll get nicks. Red Personnas seem to work the best with the slant. I still can't get close on the upper lip because I can't apply any pressure without getting cut. I think the slant is just not for me with the way I shave.

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The extra pressure you are applying may be compensating for a bad blade angle. I do not recomend pressure on the razor. It generaly causes blood letting and other nasty ramifications. If you have not done so checking out mantic59's videos so you see a good blade angle would be beneficial. The slant is not as forgiving hence the cuts with pressure.

Luc said:

+1 That's the right answer!

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Luc, was that my first ever right answer?

HDStreetGlide said:

The extra pressure you are applying may be compensating for a bad blade angle. I do not recomend pressure on the razor. It generaly causes blood letting and other nasty ramifications. If you have not done so checking out mantic59's videos so you see a good blade angle would be beneficial. The slant is not as forgiving hence the cuts with pressure.

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Or a super light razor like those German bakelite slants that we all had to have a while back. I found I really did need to press down more just to get the thing to stop skipping.

-jim

gearchow said:

Or a super light razor like those German bakelite slants that we all had to have a while back. I found I really did need to press down more just to get the thing to stop skipping.

-jim

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Have never tried one of those. I do not think I would like a razor that forces you to press down to shave.

HDStreetGlide said:

Have never tried one of those. I do not think I would like a razor that forces you to press down to shave.

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I used it once.

-jim

HDStreetGlide said:

Have never tried one of those. I do not think I would like a razor that forces you to press down to shave.

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Yeah, like a Fusion.

Whether it is gravity or muscular force doesn't really make much difference. For cutting (little) force is needed and what you are seeking for is the right amount and the right direction. While pressing the razor into your face is a really bad idea we all use a little pressure, depending on the (weight of the) razor, the blade and the direction of the stroke.

Things turn bad when you are compensating with more pressure than needed because of a wrong angle, a too mild razor, blunt blade or too much haste.

I'm a newb DE shaver myself. It took me a long time to get the pressure/angle. I watched mantic's video on advanced shaving (what am I doing watching advanced shaving videos), and I saw how little pressure he was exerting on the shaver. It finally clicked, only took me about 6 months! I'm still working on pressure/angle, but I feel like I've turned a corner.

It finally clicked, only took me about 6 months

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HDStreetGlide said:

Luc, was that my first ever right answer?

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It was the first reply and it was right...

Great responses from the brethren. I have one more question though. Are you judging the performance after just your first pass? Remember that DE shaving is all about stubble reduction with succeeding passes. Zero appreciable pressure with a sharp blade and good angle control will cut the stubble down some, but not to skin surface level on the first pass. Although every face is different, as is every beard, proper technique doesn't vary much at all. Two or more passes are required in DE shaving to get a close and comfortable shave, so one pass should absolutely leave a good amount of stubble behind. Hopefully a bit less than before you first lather up, but more than enough to need another pass with no pressure.

ProphetNoir said:

Great responses from the brethren. I have one more question though. Are you judging the performance after just your first pass? Remember that DE shaving is all about stubble reduction with succeeding passes. Zero appreciable pressure with a sharp blade and good angle control will cut the stubble down some, but not to skin surface level on the first pass. Although every face is different, as is every beard, proper technique doesn't vary much at all. Two or more passes are required in DE shaving to get a close and comfortable shave, so one pass should absolutely leave a good amount of stubble behind. Hopefully a bit less than before you first lather up, but more than enough to need another pass with no pressure.

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It means that going in the first pass against the grow is bad even if you have immediately a close shave I m but that s the way I was doing in the past with the Fusion.....and to be honest time to time still with my 11c Merkur.....

Tam

It took some mental work but I've gotten the habit of locking up my wrist & using my arm & holding the razor at the bottom tip. What a difference! Still working on the angle though around the neck.