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Straightening spine?

So I have a nice little razor that needed a bit of rust and pit removal. I'd like to make it serviceable as it has lovely striped celluloid scales and is a matching brand to a razor hone I have. Not really interested in making it look pretty just to look at, I want it to look pretty and shave well.

Problem is that the spine is bent. I noticed it midway through the sanding. I won't lay flat on the hone, touching in the middle only on one side and heel and toe on the other. The gap looks huge to the eye, but measures out as about an 8 thousanths inch bow in the middle of the blade. Clearly from the way it sits on the hone it would never hone properly and I can't see how even a rolling X stroke would compensate.

So, is it realistic to straighten this thing (even with the chance of snapping it) or should I give up before I invest more time in making it pretty? I have some ideas on how to straighten it, but my experience in bending hard steel is that it is not easy to get what you want and often you make things worse. But 9 thousanths isn't all that much and I'm willing to give it a try.

Alternatively I guess I could try to grind the spine edges flat to remove the difference and hope that worked. But if the edge is curved as well (hard to see and hard to measure on the edge) then honing a curved edge is going to still be ineffective I would think.

Any ideas?
 
Well, I had quite the time trying to straighten that spine. I started off gently by suspending it between two chocks and standing on it, then jumping up and down on it, then putting it in a vise with chocks to put pressure on the center of the curve. I tried more and more extreme measures culminating with wrapping the blade in thin aluminum to prevent scarring and bashing the damn thing with an 8 pound sledge while it was laying on a 1 inch steel plate on the concrete floor of my garage.

All to no avail. Well, mostly no avail. I got perhaps .02 inches out of the curve if I round up.

Good news is I didn't break it or damage it. It's a Dixie razor and that steel is hard.

So, I figured I'd invest the time in finishing the sanding and polishing and it came up pretty good. So I decided to grind a bevel on it to see just how bad the edge would be with that curve. I breadknifed it on a 400 grit diamond hone to get a small chip out and then ground a bevel on a 1200 diamond hone and worked it a bit on a belgian blue. I have a little more work to do on it so I didn't want to get it too sharp, just see how the bevel developed.

To my happy surprise the bevel looks quite good. Relatively little change in width along the edge on both sides and good contact with the hone the whole way. I think this thing may be quite useable. I've buffed up the pretty celluloid handle and I'm going to nickel plate the tang and attach the scales and have a go at honing it. Given the current state of my honing abilities it looks likely that the curve in the blade won't be the hold up in getting it shave ready :blushing:
 
Well, I had quite the time trying to straighten that spine. I started off gently by suspending it between two chocks and standing on it, then jumping up and down on it, then putting it in a vise with chocks to put pressure on the center of the curve. I tried more and more extreme measures culminating with wrapping the blade in thin aluminum to prevent scarring and bashing the damn thing with an 8 pound sledge while it was laying on a 1 inch steel plate on the concrete floor of my garage.

All to no avail. Well, mostly no avail. I got perhaps .02 inches out of the curve if I round up.

Good news is I didn't break it or damage it. It's a Dixie razor and that steel is hard.

So, I figured I'd invest the time in finishing the sanding and polishing and it came up pretty good. So I decided to grind a bevel on it to see just how bad the edge would be with that curve. I breadknifed it on a 400 grit diamond hone to get a small chip out and then ground a bevel on a 1200 diamond hone and worked it a bit on a belgian blue. I have a little more work to do on it so I didn't want to get it too sharp, just see how the bevel developed.

To my happy surprise the bevel looks quite good. Relatively little change in width along the edge on both sides and good contact with the hone the whole way. I think this thing may be quite useable. I've buffed up the pretty celluloid handle and I'm going to nickel plate the tang and attach the scales and have a go at honing it. Given the current state of my honing abilities it looks likely that the curve in the blade won't be the hold up in getting it shave ready :blushing:

I was cringing a bit when you said you were jumping up and down and hitting with a sledge. I suspect this razor was bent from its initial creation, you'd probably break it before you're able to bend it straight, but thats my personal opinion. Someone might be able to get a great edge on that, maybe not. I suspect you'll pull a lot of hair out trying. Never know though.

It might be one to come back to in a few months with some more honing experience under the belt. I have a few unsolvable razors (to me) that I've yet to get a good edge on, but as I gain more and more experience that pile is getting smaller and smaller.
 
You were cringing? hah, think what I was feeling :lol: But I figured it was toast anyway and it was a good learning experience so I had nothing to lose. I had assumed I would ruin the blade and I'd learn something in the process. I did learn a lot and didn't ruin the blade. I think it must have been bent in the forging before it was hardened and I'm very impressed with the strength but resilience of the metal. I had expected it to be brittle but apparently they did a good job progressively hardening and tempering the steel. The edge seemed quite hard and took a bit of work to put a bevel on. Time will tell I guess when I finish it and try to put a shaving edge on it.

I don't like rust, it really annoys me. And the tang between the scales and around the pivot pin is the most corroded area on the three razors I've taken apart so I thought I'd try plating the tang to eliminate the rusting for the duration of my lifetime. I've had great luck nickel plating Gillettes so I'll have a go at this one. Don't know how difficult steel will be to plate versus brass, but the Caswell site says it will work and again, this is my learning blade so whatever I learn will be worth it. Next time maybe I'll try silver, but it will be softer and not hold up as well I reckon.
 
yep. Like this

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The only thing that you can sometimes do is bend a tang..because many times they are considerably softer than the rest of the blade. YMMV.
 
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