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Nice Old Straight Razor - 1920s?

Hi, Friends -

Some years ago I was given a really nice, old straight razor, and I wonder if you can help me assess its value. - My apologies for any terminology errors.

The blade width is 3/4", its edge length is approximately 2 3/4" inches, and the overall length (blade tip to end of tang) is 6 3/8".

On one side of the blade is a faint, ornate engraving that reads:

"The Hamburg Ring
Extra Hollow Ground";

On that side, the tang is stamped, "XTRA HOLLOW GROUND".

On the opposite side, the tang reads "Solingen"; that side of the blade is blank.

The scales appear to be ivory-colored bakelite. I think they are in very good, serviceable condition. There is one very faint age-crack on the forward end of one scale (just below the tip, on the blade's engraved side). Both pins are in fine condition.

The blade tip itself is rounded, not square. The edge has one or two really tiny knicks close to the tip that can be removed without difficulty.

Mainly because of the bakelite scales, I'd say the razor dates from the 1920s (+/- 10 years).


I'd love to hear from you!


Phil
 
Hi Phil.

It's a got a round-point 6/8ths inch blade and it's made in Solingen, Germany. Solingen was (and still is) one of the premier razor-making capitals of Europe. Given that, I'd say it's fairly good quality, if not even excellent quality.

Bakelite was an early type of plastic developed in the 1900s and by the late 1910s and early 20s, it started bieng used for commercial production of a lot of things. But be mindful that in the mid 1920s, celluloid plastic was also introduced to the market, and this was also used to make razor-scales. What makes you think it's bakelite and not celluloid? If you dated it to the 20s or 30s, it could be made of either.

Hell, given the date, it could actually be real ivory!
 
Don't get too excited. You should really post some pics and include a clear one of the crack and nicks in the blade. That is the equivalent of trying to sell a car with a blown motor and transmission.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
I have 2 of those, 1 shave ready, the other will be shave ready eventually. Good shaver!

+1 on pictures.
 
Hi Phil.

It's a got a round-point 6/8ths inch blade and it's made in Solingen, Germany. Solingen was (and still is) one of the premier razor-making capitals of Europe. Given that, I'd say it's fairly good quality, if not even excellent quality.

Bakelite was an early type of plastic developed in the 1900s and by the late 1910s and early 20s, it started bieng used for commercial production of a lot of things. But be mindful that in the mid 1920s, celluloid plastic was also introduced to the market, and this was also used to make razor-scales. What makes you think it's bakelite and not celluloid? If you dated it to the 20s or 30s, it could be made of either.

Hell, given the date, it could actually be real ivory!

Thanks, Shangas - and everyone who responded!

I definitely will find a way to post images of this razor. Getting the crack and the tiny dings to appear clearly might be a trick, but I'll give it a go.

As for bakelite vs. celluloid (or ivory), it has the look and feel of bakelite. I'm familiar with bakelite because of my interest in Rolls Razors. However, the scales may well be celluloid...that certainly would be consistent with the estimated age of the razor. I think we can discount ivory. The material is totally uniform and featureless (free of any grain or figuring).

I'll post some images as soon as I can.


Cheers,
Phil
 
I can understand your reasoning for ivory. It was a pretty expensive material. But like I said, 20s and 30s was prime-time for both bakelite and celluloid. Telephones, record-players, fountain pens, straight-razors, radios, desk-sets...you name it, it was probably made of one or the other of those. In my experience, though, celluloid is stronger than bakelite, which, if memory serves, was somewhat famous for being brittle.
 
I can understand your reasoning for ivory. It was a pretty expensive material. But like I said, 20s and 30s was prime-time for both bakelite and celluloid. Telephones, record-players, fountain pens, straight-razors, radios, desk-sets...you name it, it was probably made of one or the other of those. In my experience, though, celluloid is stronger than bakelite, which, if memory serves, was somewhat famous for being brittle.

I agree. I remember my dad talking about celluloid shirt collars...now that must have been an exercise in misery! :lol:

Should have some pix by tomorrow or the day after. I'm a luddite compared to most of you folks: no cell phone, no i-pod, no digital camera (but I will get a digital camera, because I like photography).

Cheers,
Phil
 
Hi, Friends -

Some years ago I was given a really nice, old straight razor, and I wonder if you can help me assess its value. - My apologies for any terminology errors.

The blade width is 3/4", its edge length is approximately 2 3/4" inches, and the overall length (blade tip to end of tang) is 6 3/8".

On one side of the blade is a faint, ornate engraving that reads:

"The Hamburg Ring
Extra Hollow Ground";

On that side, the tang is stamped, "XTRA HOLLOW GROUND".

On the opposite side, the tang reads "Solingen"; that side of the blade is blank.

The scales appear to be ivory-colored bakelite. I think they are in very good, serviceable condition. There is one very faint age-crack on the forward end of one scale (just below the tip, on the blade's engraved side). Both pins are in fine condition.

The blade tip itself is rounded, not square. The edge has one or two really tiny knicks close to the tip that can be removed without difficulty.

Mainly because of the bakelite scales, I'd say the razor dates from the 1920s (+/- 10 years).


I'd love to hear from you!


Phil

Here is the razor with pictures!:001_smile I have three details (one for the crack, one for the ding, and one for scale). There is a U.S. nickel by the crack and the ding(s) are just forward of the penny(under the blade). If you look carefully, you can see the engraved logo I mentioned in the above posting.

Enjoy!

Phil
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
The chip that you have in the edge is minor, shouldn't be a problem for a honemeister at all. The blade doesn't look like there are any cracks or rust.

The crack in the scales isn't worth worrying. If it would be around the pin you could glue it back but right there, it doesn't look like something is about to fall either so I wouldn't pay attention to it for now.
 
The chip that you have in the edge is minor, shouldn't be a problem for a honemeister at all. The blade doesn't look like there are any cracks or rust.

The crack in the scales isn't worth worrying. If it would be around the pin you could glue it back but right there, it doesn't look like something is about to fall either so I wouldn't pay attention to it for now.

Thanks, Luc -

That is very helpful!


Cheers,
Phil
 
Hi Petrocrab.

Once it's been polished up and cleaned up some, I reckon that'd be a beautiful razor. Hell, I'm beginning to wish I had it!

...Wanna swap? :D Mine's all sharp and ready to go...

The damage you mention doesn't look very significant. If the crack on the scales was around or across one of the pins, then I would be worried, but as it is, I don't think you need to freak out. You might want to dabble a BIT of glue there, but unless it's absolutely falling apart, I don't see much point.
 
I agree with whats been said, should come up nice with a clean, a good honing and dont worry to much about the crack in the handle.
 
I received the razor today and with some minor cleaning and a little sharpening to remove a nick I was able to get a DFS with this razor off a Arky soft stone and an old 4 sided strop. I had one of those days yesterday where from the start everything worked out and I found this old strop in some of my (deceased)grandfathers things. I'd seen it in the past but had no idea what it was so I left it alone. Thanks to this forum I now do.My grandfather was a perfectionist of a woodworker and his tools had to be right. Thats probably why the stone and strop worked so well on my new razor. But anyway thanks Phil for the razor and thanks to the forum for extending me the knowledge to sharpen it. Heres a couple pics of the only items I used to get it in working order.
 
life2short1971 -

I've hoisted signal flags, "Bravo Zulu" (Congratulations, well done!) to you and the group.

I think this is an example of why we're all here.

Thanks, buddy - you've made my day! :001_smile

Phil
I received the razor today and with some minor cleaning and a little sharpening to remove a nick I was able to get a DFS with this razor off a Arky soft stone and an old 4 sided strop. I had one of those days yesterday where from the start everything worked out and I found this old strop in some of my (deceased)grandfathers things. I'd seen it in the past but had no idea what it was so I left it alone. Thanks to this forum I now do.My grandfather was a perfectionist of a woodworker and his tools had to be right. Thats probably why the stone and strop worked so well on my new razor. But anyway thanks Phil for the razor and thanks to the forum for extending me the knowledge to sharpen it. Heres a couple pics of the only items I used to get it in working order.
 
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