Can't shave with a DE unless I have a 5-day stubble

Sushi · Aug 21, 2010

So, I had some bad results with DE razors about a month ago and went back to cartridges. I decided to give DEs another a try again and shaved a 5-day stubble beautifully. I did WTG, XTG, ATG and it probably was the best shave I've ever had.

I let my beard grow for 3 days and I tried to repeat my awesome shave. I encountered same problems I had a month ago. The shave wasn't close, I had some bleeding spots, and could "feel" my face after the shave.

For some reason, when my stubble gets really long, my initial WTG pass cuts pretty close and the next 2 passes are smooth and pleasant. However, with shorter stubble the WTG pass still leaves a lot of hair and the rest of my passes suffer because of that.

Any idea why this is happening? I want the shave I had on my 5-day stubble, but I also want to shave at least every other day.

Loric · Aug 21, 2010

Technique is very important to a good shave and that takes time. One problem is that your not doing your ATG pass last. That is the pass that gives most of us the most irritation (especially me). Its seems most people have better success with WTG, XTG, XTG, ATG. Many skip the ATG pass all together to avoid the irritation it brings. You just have to practice and see what works for you, its very individual.

Are you using good prep? Your best shave will be after a shower when your beard has had time to absorb water and become soft. You could also try some shaving oil or other pre-shave treatments. Many of which also benefit from 5 to 10 minuets of time to really absorb into the hairs.

Maybe if you give us more info on your technique we could help more.

Sushi · Aug 21, 2010

I'm sorry, I meant to say that I'm doing WTG, XTG, ATG. I'll correct my original post. And yes, I do shave after shower. I read a lot of post on this forum and became quite knowledgeable in wet shaving theory. It's the practice that's giving me trouble. And like I said, if I let my beard grow for 5 days it shaves beautifully. I'm having trouble with frequent shaves.

Loric · Aug 21, 2010

No problem, I'm the typo king. I think more of my posts are edited than not :lol:

Can you give us any more info? That could help.

Luc · Aug 21, 2010

This is not something you will master in 2-3 shaves, it will take practice. You might want to limit yourself to 2 passes, maybe twice WTG or WTG and XTG.

Skip ATG for now. The cuts are most likely related to pressure. It should be none.

As mentioned, Prep is very important and your lather. What do you do for your prep and how does your lather looks like/feel?

Sushi · Aug 21, 2010

2 passes don't yield good results. My 1st WTG pass with 5 day stubble left shorter whiskers than WTG + XTG passes with 3 day stubble.

I shower, 1 minute hot towel, and shave. My lather feels slippery

Luc · Aug 21, 2010

Sushi said:
2 passes don't yield good results. My 1st WTG pass with 5 day stubble left shorter whiskers than WTG + XTG passes with 3 day stubble.

I shower, 1 minute hot towel, and shave. My lather feels slippery

2 passes might not be enough for now but if you are able to shave more often, you would learn more quickly. You won't get the closest shave yet but if you are getting too much irritation at 3 days interval, it's not good.

The shower should be good enough and the hot towel will help.

For your lather, slippery could have various consistency.

What does it looks like? Is it foamy, thick, thin, yogurt like, etc?

Is your blade skipping when you shave?

What are you using at the moment? (Razor, blades, shaving soap, shaving cream, aftershave)

Did you buy a razor blade sample pack?

Drubbing · Aug 21, 2010

Luc said:
This is not something you will master in 2-3 shaves, it will take practice. You might want to limit yourself to 2 passes, maybe twice WTG or WTG and XTG.

Skip ATG for now. The cuts are most likely related to pressure. It should be none.

As mentioned, Prep is very important and your lather. What do you do for your prep and how does your lather looks like/feel?

+1.

Also, it's quite possible your heavy growth is protecting your skin from the blade, as well as being rested from shaving. This comes down to practice and a light touch.

Let go of trying for the ultimate shave or expecting certain results every time, and focus on learning technique that will allow you to shave everyday or so. The results will look after themselves in time.

When I first started, I couldn't see how 2 passes would ever yield a half decent shave. Now that's about all I do, and get very near to being smooth all over.

pal · Aug 21, 2010

Sushi said:
So, I had some bad results with DE razors about a month ago and went back to cartridges. I decided to give DEs another a try again and shaved a 5-day stubble beautifully. I did WTG, XTG, ATG and it probably was the best shave I've ever had.

I let my beard grow for 3 days and I tried to repeat my awesome shave. I encountered same problems I had a month ago. The shave wasn't close, I had some bleeding spots, and could "feel" my face after the shave.

For some reason, when my stubble gets really long, my initial WTG pass cuts pretty close and the next 2 passes are smooth and pleasant. However, with shorter stubble the WTG pass still leaves a lot of hair and the rest of my passes suffer because of that.

Any idea why this is happening? I want the shave I had on my 5-day stubble, but I also want to shave at least every other day.

You may need to shave with cold water. I know everyone is telling you to use hot water and the more the better. However, if you hydrate you beard in a hot shower and then splash cold water on your face, you beard will still be just as hydrated. The difference is that cold water makes your pores tighten up and your beard stand up for a closer shave. This works for me and it is worth trying. Good luck!

buyandhold2018 · Aug 21, 2010

You may want to try a sharper blade, what type of blade are you using?

ATG passes should only be done after the 1 or 2 "good" reduction passes, IMO. If you are getting irritation you are probably going to the ATG with too much hair.

TheChefs · Aug 21, 2010

I would do what Luc says, leave the ATG for now, and practice the technique every day. Don't try to get the best shave. After few weeks when your technique gets better, your results will be better.

Personally I never do ATG, I just do WTG, XTG and XTG in opposite direction. Sometimes I might throw in a 45degree XTG/ATG pass.

If you practice good technique everyday you will get the results you are after sooner then shaving with DE once a week, that's 4/5 shaves in a month vs 30.

Also what razor, blade and soap/cream are you using?

noahpictures · Aug 21, 2010

What razor are you using? With what blade? Do you have a heavy, coarse beard? What kind of brush and shaving cream/soap are you using? Help us help you :001_smile

jin · Aug 21, 2010

I have the same experience, with either cartridge or DE (so far). It was to the point where I'd only shave once every week, maybe every 5 days or so, because I had so much irritation shaving any more frequently. I started trying wet- and DE-shaving to see if it would be any better.

What I seem to have found, and this may just be ridiculous self-deception, but my beard really feels softer after it's grown out a bit. Like, the first day or three of stubble it feels rough. After 4-5 days of growing it, it honestly feels much, much softer.

Maybe it's just the 4 or 5 days of washing and weathering that's making it softer, I don't know. Either way, I can sympathize with you. Still trying to come up with a way to work around it, though :sad:

Uncle Erik · Aug 21, 2010

How much pressure are you using? When I have problems, it usually comes down to using too much pressure - a bad habit I picked up from cartridges.

lindcruiser · Aug 21, 2010

pal said:
You may need to shave with cold water. I know everyone is telling you to use hot water and the more the better. However, if you hydrate you beard in a hot shower and then splash cold water on your face, you beard will still be just as hydrated. The difference is that cold water makes your pores tighten up and your beard stand up for a closer shave. This works for me and it is worth trying. Good luck!

I may have to give this a try, thanks for sharing!
:thumbup1:

aimsport · Aug 21, 2010

Some thoughts:

Are you rushing? May I suggest you massage your lather into your face trying to rub ATG, and then re-lather before your first pass.

You sound like you're using a Merkur or Derby blade? (wild guess). I don't know your equipment, but try an Astra SP or an Iridium.

No pressure. Got it? Okay, now even 1/2 that amount of pressure. ;-)

Don't run water as you shave. Fill the sink and use the silence to listen for that buttering toast sound.

Explore the Badger and Blade for all that it offers in prep and shaving instruction.

Slow down. Lower the shave standard, as closeness will come with repetition and advancing your technique..

Don't give up. You can shave with a DE; you're just figuring out what works for you. Enjoy.

Loric · Aug 21, 2010

aimsport said:
Some thoughts:

Are you rushing? May I suggest you massage your lather into your face trying to rub ATG, and then re-lather before your first pass.

You sound like you're using a Merkur or Derby blade? (wild guess). I don't know your equipment, but try an Astra SP or an Iridium.

No pressure. Got it? Okay, now even 1/2 that amount of pressure. ;-)

Don't run water as you shave. Fill the sink and use the silence to listen for that buttering toast sound.

Explore the Badger and Blade for all that it offers in prep and shaving instruction.

Slow down. Lower the shave standard, as closeness will come with repetition and advancing your technique..

Don't give up. You can shave with a DE; you're just figuring out what works for you. Enjoy.

+1 and if you are using a Murkur or Derby blad throw the damn thing out and get a DE blade sampler from someplace. Murkurs and Derbys are GARBAGE!!! That said there are some great alternatives to be found. Aster Superior Platinum's are a great place to start, but you should really try a sampler as YMMV.

Sushi · Aug 21, 2010

Hi everyone, thanks for all the replies.

I'm using Cella soap, Merkur 23c, and Persona blades. I also tried Feathers, Astra, and Crytal before I switched back to cartridges. It would make sense to assume that my angle/technique are suffering, but I did have an amazing shave when I had the 5day stubble...

I will try shaving with cool water after showering. Thanks for the tip.

Blue58 · Aug 21, 2010

One thing I have found is that using a DE is much like using a straight... NO PRESSURE I basically use the weight of the razor alone. Also razor angle is very important. too much angle and you won't cut much... too little angle and its like dragging a rake across your face.

It sounds like you have a good start to your routine, now you just need to work on your actual shaving method.... just remember, go slow, watch your angle, and NO PRESSURE. The no pressure part is especially important when you do your ATG pass. I hope this helps. I know it helped me a lot.

TheChefs · Aug 21, 2010

You are using a great soap (or so I've been told, I've not tried it yet). The razor is good and one of my fav blades. Here's what I think is happening. With a persona blade the only way I can cut myself is if I use too much pressure. Also to get a good shave with 23c on 5 days of growth I would have to use a lot of pressure innitially.

As far as I can tell you are using too much pressure to compensate for bad blade angle and cut yourself up. I know that, because I used to do it as well, I was getting terrible shaves using DE for the first couple of months, now they are like a dream.

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Can't shave with a DE unless I have a 5-day stubble

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