Strop Maintenance/ Repair

I'm learning the art of straight shaving and have gotten to where I pretty much always finish ATG. (Chin and under nose area needs a little more practice).

In learning to strop, and I'm still not sure I'm doing it right, I have put the inevitable nicks in it. See pics below.

What steps do you recommend to smooth/repair the nicks and at this time, should I do anything else to the strop. I have done zero maintenance to it, no soap lather or anything.

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With that strop, I'd recommend starting with 200-400 grit sandpaper, sand until all the nicks are gone and the surface is uniform. Then move up in sandpaper grits to 1000 (1500 if you have it). Once you've gone all the way up, give it a thorough (minute or two) rubbing with a smooth glass bottle (I use a beer bottle. don't rub with the label or the seam!). Try stropping on it. If it feels good, you're good. If the draw, however, is too light (and that looks like horsehide, so it may be lighter than you prefer) whip up a good, thick lather, and brush-lather that thoroughly into the strop. Once it's evenly coated, take your glass bottle and keep rubbing along the length of the strop, back and forth, until the lather is gone, and the strop has a nice, even sheen. Let that sit for a bit, then palm-rub it, and give it a go. Should have a nice even draw now.

Might as well toss out a list of a few strop conditioning tricks:

For rejuvenating a vintage strop (and I just did this a few days ago) if there aren't any cracks in the surface, make a good, thick lather (preferably glycerin based) and lather that into the strop, then let it sit over night. In the morning, brush the dried lather away, and rub it for a few minutes with the bottle. Should be supple and ready to rock.

If there are cracks in it (the vintage strop), start at 200 grit sand paper, and sand away (evenly across the whole strop) until all the cracks are gone, then move up in grits (400, 800, 1000 (optionally 1500)), moving from grit to grit like greaseless... Once all the marks from the last grit are gone, move on to the next (or, moreover, once the strop is fully the texture of the new grit... You'll see what I mean if you do it). Once you hit 1000 or 1500, rub the strop thoroughly with the bottle to smooth it all out, then use the above method for a crackless old strop.

If you just want to add more draw, but don't want neatsfoot oil, lather up the strop, then rub with the bottle until the lather is gone.

If you have a wavy strop that you want flattened and smoothed, go at it for a few minutes with the bottle.

The first method is also good for cleaning an old strop while giving it some life and moisture.

Yay! Strops are fun!

Cheers,
Jeremy

ShavedZombie said:

With that strop, I'd recommend starting with 200-400 grit sandpaper, sand until all the nicks are gone and the surface is uniform. Then move up in sandpaper grits to 1000 (1500 if you have it). Once you've gone all the way up, give it a thorough (minute or two) rubbing with a smooth glass bottle (I use a beer bottle. don't rub with the label or the seam!).

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I take a different approach. I don't know if this flies in the face of 'conventional wisdom' around here, but it works for me. Basically, I try to salvage the flaps where possible by gluing then down with a small amount of ~Duco Cement (or similar), applied carefully with a toothpick. I work it flat by rubbing with the coke bottle thing, and then I lay a piece of paper towel over it, stick it in a paperback book, and clamp it overnight. I then sand as necessary. Fortunately, I have to do that less and less these days....

both the above work - if you think you can glue down the flap, then glue it down. if wont glue, sand it away!

I do the same than the above 2 posts.

big nicks, superglue and light sanding the next day

small nicks, sanding but I usually start with 1200 grit sandpaper and take a lower grit if it doesn't go away after 2 minutes.

Thank You gents. Time to start some touch up work.