Restoration Advice ~

Restoration Advice ~

I have just started my first brush restoration. In removing the old knot, despite having a layer of tape protecting the surface of the handle, the dremel rode up and put a couple of light abrasions on the top of the brush handle. Both the handle I’m restoring is an Ever Ready 200T, which is made from a plastic / bakelite type material.

In my readings about others restorations, I have noted that sanding & steel wool have been used to remove mild blemishes. My question is what type and grit of sandpaper should be using for this? It’s the same question regarding the steel wool, what grade is best suited for the use above?

Any advice and tips would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

DD

Without seeing the mild abrasions, I can't be exact, but...

I'd start with 800 grit wet-or-dry automotive grade sandpaper. Use it wet, like under a drip of water. Sand a bit to see if you can remove the abrasions with random motion and light pressure. If not, move to a slightly rougher grit, say 400. After the scratches are gone, progress through available grits until you finish with 800 or 1000 wet sanding. Be careful with the random motion to avoid making finger grooves or flat spots.

At this point, you will have a really smooth surface which is matte finish. Follow up with a polishing compound to make it shine. Maas is a good one. There are many others. Do not use Brasso. It contains strong ammonia, which is not good for the Bakelite. Wright's Silver Creme is another good, mild polish. Some fine automotive paint polishes are good for this.

+1 ...excellent advice!

DavyRay said:

Without seeing the mild abrasions, I can't be exact, but...

I'd start with 800 grit wet-or-dry automotive grade sandpaper. Use it wet, like under a drip of water. Sand a bit to see if you can remove the abrasions with random motion and light pressure. If not, move to a slightly rougher grit, say 400. After the scratches are gone, progress through available grits until you finish with 800 or 1000 wet sanding. Be careful with the random motion to avoid making finger grooves or flat spots.

At this point, you will have a really smooth surface which is matte finish. Follow up with a polishing compound to make it shine. Maas is a good one. There are many others. Do not use Brasso. It contains strong ammonia, which is not good for the Bakelite. Wright's Silver Creme is another good, mild polish. Some fine automotive paint polishes are good for this.

Click to expand...

"Maas is a good one"

Where do I fine Maas?

DD

Like Davy Ray said except I would up to 2000 or 2500 grit on the sand paper.It'll save you some elbow grease with the polish.Scratch out works easily after the high grits.

Or you can just do this. I dropped this one just as I was finishing it and it chipped. I had to remove about 2mm from the lip and was pretty annoyed at the time. But after it was finished I actually liked it better like that.

legion said:

Or you can just do this. I dropped this one just as I was finishing it and it chipped. I had to remove about 2mm from the lip and was pretty annoyed at the time. But after it was finished I actually liked it better like that.

Click to expand...

Very nice & I like the look. I have to keep that in mind should I do another restore.

Gorgeous brush! Well done!

legion said:

Or you can just do this. I dropped this one just as I was finishing it and it chipped. I had to remove about 2mm from the lip and was pretty annoyed at the time. But after it was finished I actually liked it better like that.

Click to expand...

While I would not purposefully scar a brush I was restoring, I'm not perfect and I leave marks when my inperfection kicks in. I put a fairly small chip in the Simms brush I'm currently working on.

First I was upset... then I realized it just kind of adds to the story of the brush. Some crazy 20-something trying to execute on a seemingly ancient tradition. In 50 years I hope someone is ripping the knot out of this brush, badger hair cocked to one side like the well used brushes of yesteryear.
Then I hope me swears at me when he drills down into the obscene amount of metal I've added to the handle.

Any advice, pro or con, on the use of steel wool?

DD

I don't really like steel wool that much, preferring the synthetic abrasive pads, sandpaper and abrasive polishes.

Little metal slivers get everywhere. Makes a great survival fire 'kindling' though if soaked with wax.

-jim

legion said:

Or you can just do this. I dropped this one just as I was finishing it and it chipped. I had to remove about 2mm from the lip and was pretty annoyed at the time. But after it was finished I actually liked it better like that.

Click to expand...

I am faced with this exact situation right now. Seeing this, I think the shoulder looks very nice, which is fortunate, as the other choices are somehow restore the top part or drilling out for an even larger knot.

Very nice looking, love that black/white look!

-jim

Very nice indeed!

Mike

During a recent restore, I had a couple of minor scratches from the Dremel. I used a 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth out the scratches. I then followed up with a 2000 grit wet/dry before moving on to the Flitz polish. When finished, the scratches were gone and the handle looked good.

I've started at 400 and moved up from there; 400 was about as rough as I'd imagine needing. After that, I went to 600 and 800 wet/dry, and finished with Flitz (from Ace or WalMart, can't remember which). That's how I did my first one, and it had a mirror finish when it was all over.

JPDyson said:

I've started at 400 and moved up from there; 400 was about as rough as I'd imagine needing. After that, I went to 600 and 800 wet/dry, and finished with Flitz (from Ace or WalMart, can't remember which). That's how I did my first one, and it had a mirror finish when it was all over.

Click to expand...

+1

That is exactly my grit progression. works great.


-jim

legion said:

Or you can just do this. I dropped this one just as I was finishing it and it chipped. I had to remove about 2mm from the lip and was pretty annoyed at the time. But after it was finished I actually liked it better like that.

Click to expand...

sexy, sexy, sexy!!!

Dave Deluxe said:

Restoration Advice ~

I have just started my first brush restoration. In removing the old knot, despite having a layer of tape protecting the surface of the handle, the dremel rode up and put a couple of light abrasions on the top of the brush handle.
DD

Click to expand...

So...I'm not the only one who has done that.

During my first restore...not finished yet, have to take out the dings...the dremel walked and put a nice little gouge down the side.

After reading this thread, I tried some 400 sandpaper. I had tried some 0000 steel wool before but it didn't take much off and I was hesitant about using sandpaper.

I used some 400 very LIGHTLY on it. Wish I'd have taken a pic. of it before I started. Pic. of after the 400. Dang, my camera was focusing on the tomatos instead of the brush. Tried to resize the photos in photobucket but it doesn't seem to work on the preview.



Then I buffed it out a bit with the 0000 steel wool. It seems to be working. I think I'll go pick up some 1000 grit and see what else I can do with it. Pic. of after the 0000 steel wool and a bit of polishing with Metal Wax. It's looking much better.

Dave Deluxe said:

Any advice, pro or con, on the use of steel wool?

DD

Click to expand...

The steel wool works fine for me before polishing.

If there is a complete restoration sticky that also addresses the problems you may run into I haven't seen it yet. It would be great to have one...I was hesitant on doing this being new at restorations.

legion...that brush is gorgeous.

Oh well...here's an attachment of the 150's "good side" next to the 79 that's about ready for a knot.

600 grit wet and dry sandpaper should be sufficiently rough to remove light surface scratches on a brush handle, they are not metal. (If you have actual gouges you may need to go rougher.) I start with 600, then go to 800, then 1000, then 1500. I then polish and buff with Brasso to bring out some shine. Give it a good wipe down then apply Renaissance Wax and buff again. Perfecto!

Good stuff ... thanks.