Lucite Restore question

So has anyone successfully re-knotted a Lucite handle? I received one from a member, and it has black inside the knot hole. I was thinking about using a different color in the epoxy when I re-knot it, maybe red?

Anyways, does the inside of the whole have to be absolutely smooth and polished like the outside in order for it to look right? I usually use a forstner bit to drill out the old knot, but want to make sure I don't get that little dimple where the forstner has a point.

Any ideas?

pcullens said:

So has anyone successfully re-knotted a Lucite handle? I received one from a member, and it has black inside the knot hole. I was thinking about using a different color in the epoxy when I re-knot it, maybe red?

Anyways, does the inside of the whole have to be absolutely smooth and polished like the outside in order for it to look right? I usually use a forstner bit to drill out the old knot, but want to make sure I don't get that little dimple where the forstner has a point.

Any ideas?

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any dimple or blemish will show when you re-knot it.... I'd be very careful with any tool used in there!

I've been looking for something to paint the cavity before gluing in the knot; I wonder if the glue will adhere to any paint or if lampblack would work better.

good luck - I'd like to see pics of progress & the finished product.

I did a Lucite handle before, and though I didn't change the color, I removed just enough of the knot to make sure I didn't scratch the Lucite, then I used jewelers rouge on a soft dremel pad to "polish" out the old color which was spotty.
Good luck!

pcullens said:

Anyways, does the inside of the whole have to be absolutely smooth and polished like the outside in order for it to look right?

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Yes, if you cut into the clear lucite, the brush will have to be polished inside and out if you don't want abnormalities or haziness.

You could tint the epoxy to any color you choose.

I did one awhile back that ended up making it's way to the land down under. It ended up pretty good. It was an Ever-Ready. I was fortunate enough to have the lucite bottom come off with a light persuasion of a small rubber mallet. I was then able to use wet-or-dry sand paper to slowly get the shallow cracks and blemishes out. I ended up polishing it afterwards with a Dremel. The head of the brush I treated like any other than I have done. I used 5min epoxy to set it, but I set it a little differently than most would. The knot I used fit into the head pretty snug. So I flipped it over and set it in a brush stand and slowly set the epoxy until I had the depth I wanted. I later painted the epoxy after it hardened. I made sure that it wasn't going to flake or scale off. You could put a coin or something in there even. I then put the bottom back on.

The bottom fell off after it got to the owner, but I think it was due to having the lucite part too polished, make sure that it's rough enough to make a good bond. The owner of the brush and I worked it out and he repaired it. I hope it is still doing well.

Sueto said:

I did one awhile back that ended up making it's way to the land down under. It ended up pretty good. It was an Ever-Ready. I was fortunate enough to have the lucite bottom come off with a light persuasion of a small rubber mallet. I was then able to use wet-or-dry sand paper to slowly get the shallow cracks and blemishes out. I ended up polishing it afterwards with a Dremel. The head of the brush I treated like any other than I have done. I used 5min epoxy to set it, but I set it a little differently than most would. The knot I used fit into the head pretty snug. So I flipped it over and set it in a brush stand and slowly set the epoxy until I had the depth I wanted. I later painted the epoxy after it hardened. I made sure that it wasn't going to flake or scale off. You could put a coin or something in there even. I then put the bottom back on.

The bottom fell off after it got to the owner, but I think it was due to having the lucite part too polished, make sure that it's rough enough to make a good bond. The owner of the brush and I worked it out and he repaired it. I hope it is still doing well.

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His brush is a one piece solid Lucite Handle.

luvmysuper said:

I did a Lucite handle before, and though I didn't change the color, I removed just enough of the knot to make sure I didn't scratch the Lucite, then I used jewelers rouge on a soft dremel pad to "polish" out the old color which was spotty.
Good luck!

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This sound like the best route. Go Gently!

Jim said:

You could tint the epoxy to any color you choose.

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This was my plan. I got the idea from a post of yours in an earlier thread.

luvmysuper said:

His brush is a one piece solid Lucite Handle.

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You are correct sir! Like a brilliant lucite ice cube!

luvmysuper said:

His brush is a one piece solid Lucite Handle.

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Yeah, sorry there. Just re-read the post. Now the idea is kinda stuck with me. If the sides of the knot hole are too polishes are you going to foresee a problem with the knot coming out, or think the epoxy will bond properly?

Sueto said:

Yeah, sorry there. Just re-read the post. Now the idea is kinda stuck with me. If the sides of the knot hole are too polishes are you going to foresee a problem with the knot coming out, or think the epoxy will bond properly?

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I hadn't thought about that. We'll just have to see what happens when I take the knot out.

pcullens said:

Like a brilliant lucite ice cube!

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Ah, the Marvy. I have considered a reknot of that, but then I got a crazy idea for another brush. Should be ready in the next week or two.

I love those lucite handles, I have some that are as beautiful as any vintage bakelite. Here is a Fuller that I restored. Like most of the lucite brushes I have acquired, there were stress cracks in the knothole that radiated out and created a patchy, messy look. I don't know if the rubber reacted with the plastic over time or if the stress from being drilled out caught up with them over the ages, but most look like that.

View attachment 109222

I drilled out the old knot very carefully with a brad point bit in overlapping holes till I could pry the outer perimeter out with a small screwdriver. This left a messy hole lined partially with the old rubber. I cleaned the hole out with a rotary file mounted in my drill press. I mistakenly call this a rotary rasp in another post, it isn't. It looks like a router bit with a mill file surface and file teeth on the bottom. The bottom is flat and perpendicular. This is a perfect tool for cleaning up lucite. It cuts gradually in a very controlled manner leaving a surface that only needs a little handwork to finish. I enlarged the hole a little to carve away the cracked portion (it looked huge from outside because of the refraction through the lucite). The rotary file cut through the bottom crud and left a nice flat bottom.

I finished smoothing a bit with 200 grit waterproof sandpaper to leave a smooth surface with a little tooth for the epoxy. I lined this by brushing on a layer of 6 minute gel epoxy mixed with graphite to make it black. Let it sit overnight, the knothole looked perfect from outside. I glued the knot in with the same epoxy mix so the rim of epoxy at the top would match. A final polish with white compound on an unsewn flannel wheel and presto.

It was my first lucite and I was worried how it would look, the lucite magnifies any imperfection, but I am really pleased with how this turned out. I have a clear lucite handle that was painted red on the inside and that looks great as well, I probably won't restore it as it doesn't have the stress cracks. I have a small, turned solid amber lucite handle with the knothole disease that is next on my list of projects.

View attachment 109224

Excellent work BrownBear. I picked up a Lucite last week that I was wondering how to restore. Your technique looks like a perfect way to deal with this.