Gus's Shave diary

**global_dev** · 01-31-2011, 05:15 AM

nice concise write-up.. what an achievement... you remember much more than I do and I am at, at most, half of the straight shaves you have accomplished to this point...

Originally Posted by Gustav

1) Shaving with a straight is a lot of fun

while fun isn't the exact word i would use, i can't exactly find the correct word in English.. to me, the process is more like the Japanese concept of Wabi-sabi, but even that misses some of the elements of "fun"

3) Shaves build on each other

without a doubt.. but i don't know if 100% dedication is an absolute in learning. It was nice to take a couple of breaks.

4) Stretch your skin:

IMO, sometimes what seems like the most obvious way to stretch thr skin isn't. Like on the neck. You'd think stretch down, but sometimes that is not where the elasticity is. play around, find the most responsive area,

5) Stropping:..get a nice broad one, the X-pattern on a thin strop is something I never really got the hang of.

i don't know if i like my broad one... i guess honing has given me some perspective on the x-stroke. it's refreshing to ave choice.

6) Prep and lather:

I agree you have to find the right balance of slickness and cushioning, but the whole stick to one soap and brush doesn't appeal to me.. I figure it's just as easy for me to spot the issue with a cream or a soap and work with it... react on the fly.. I appreciate some need more stability, but I really haven't found a shave cream or soap that I haven't enjoyed, except Col Conk lime and I am glad t was inexpensive.

7) Tuning/honing: get your first razors honed by a pro,

I agree a couple of straights honed correctly will let you understand what the motions should be, not wonder if a blade is sharp enough. To tell you the truth, time and money could be better spent than on some hones, but it is an substantial feeling to not only shave with a straight, but maintain the straight yourself..

8) Take it easy: it is not a race, do not try to go ATG or even XTG before you have learned the basics.

Honestly, i think i have ideal balance of close & comfort, by sticking to the basics. My skin has never felt so nice and looks so well as it has when straight shaved.

Finally I would like to thank all those who have posted helpful videos, tutorials and diaries and those who have supported me during this project especially Luc who took it on himself to consistently comment my posts and also Ru4scuba, sanfransiscan, honed and many others.

Needless to say, I am quite sure straight razor shaving will be a significant part of my hopefully long life.

Yes, I wholeheartedly agree. The support and watching others on these boards gives the inspiration to give a straight a chance and keep it going... it is a bond, no matter how distant and shallow, that you know at least someone else is encouraging/supporting you to master a distinguished skill ...

I can't wait until i get to a hundred. If I shave every weekday and twice a day on weekends, it will still at least be a month. However even a hundred sometimes sounds insignificant on it's own... but at least we know what it took us to get there.

great job!

**Gustav** · 01-31-2011, 06:09 AM

Thank you! It was actually quite an eye opener to sum up in this way. You do not usually go back and read your own diary but if you want to do a write up, you have to and then you get further confirmation on how far you have come.

On the subject of lather, this issue might be more important on some faces than on others. Some soaps that are quite alright with DEs just do no work as well with straights. Reformulated Floris no89 is one of them: in my hands it is slick as hell but it has no cushion. Valobra crema di sappone purissima (not the stick the soft soap) with almond scent gives great lether and feels slick and cushiony on the first pass but on subsequent passes the razor just seems to get stuck. I have tried all kinds of soap/water ratios but I cannot get it to work. The post shave feeling on my face is awful: no irritation but just stiff and dry. This sort of thing never seems to happen with Tabac, SIM, Euro Palmolive, L'Occitane Cade or Joris and they leave my face feeling neutral or even better than before I started. This is of course one of those YMMV things.

For my next hundred, I am hoping to get more proficient in quality and speed of shaves and hoping that I will have the nerve and dedication to try my hand at maintaining my own razors.

**global_dev** · 01-31-2011, 07:25 AM

Every once in a while, i revisit the earlier parts of my journal just to see what i was thinking.. it' feels like a long time ago, but really isn't. I kept other small journals when i lived overseas and it's a trip to read them now..

on lathers, i have found that issue as you describe as stickiness here and there. I don't remember which soap, but i have seen it... and felt it, but i find if i am near teh end of a shave, i'll "cheat" and toss in a small amount of KMF and water to up the slickness and get me past the issue.

i am finding that my shaves are going pretty quick; however i am exercising some caution..

**komodo** · 01-31-2011, 08:22 AM

Dear Gus. Thanks for the great read! Really good for someone who's still at the beginning of the learning phase.

**Gustav** · 01-31-2011, 11:45 PM

You are welcome! I hope you will enjoy your journey as much as I have mine. As you may have noticed, it takes time. I still have some spots where I can get a closer shave with an SE but do not let that discourage you, finding out for yourself how you are going to deal with those spots is part of the fun.

**Luc** · 01-31-2011, 11:47 PM

Great journal Erik!

**komodo** · 02-01-2011, 12:01 AM

Originally Posted by Gustav

You are welcome! I hope you will enjoy your journey as much as I have mine. As you may have noticed, it takes time. I still have some spots where I can get a closer shave with an SE but do not let that discourage you, finding out for yourself how you are going to deal with those spots is part of the fun.

So far, I am really enjoying this way of shaving, and learning so much about my face. I'll stick with it for the time being.

**Gustav** · 02-09-2011, 01:53 AM

Shave #109

For the last 4 shaves I have been using my newly acquired Le Grelot 6/8, which has been a most interesting experience. The fame of this razor made me expect that it would put my collection of predominantly Swedish straights to shame but to my delight I have discovered that this is far from the case. My Söderén frameback is still my favourite razor. Le Grelot has given me 4 consecutive DFS shaves but much the same as with my Heljestrand Wedge I feel it leaves a trail of weepers in its wake. Perhaps I am just not cut out to wield these hefty and unyielding razors or perhaps I should try it again with Tabac instead of Speick which I find a touch underprotective.

I have also tried to concentrate on some of the last areas of residual stubble resistance: the moustache area and the chin. Especially on the moustache, I can get this area pretty clean by making an "o" with my mouth and then shaving ATG, but never without a trail of blood!

QUESTION: Could lack of devoted preparation attention be the culprit in these areas? Do any of you do something special to prep these areas?

**Luc** · 02-09-2011, 02:19 AM

Originally Posted by Gustav

Shave #109

For the last 4 shaves I have been using my newly acquired Le Grelot 6/8, which has been a most interesting experience. The fame of this razor made me expect that it would put my collection of predominantly Swedish straights to shame but to my delight I have discovered that this is far from the case. My Söderén frameback is still my favourite razor. Le Grelot has given me 4 consecutive DFS shaves but much the same as with my Heljestrand Wedge I feel it leaves a trail of weepers in its wake. Perhaps I am just not cut out to wield these hefty and unyielding razors or perhaps I should try it again with Tabac instead of Speick which I find a touch underprotective.

I have also tried to concentrate on some of the last areas of residual stubble resistance: the moustache area and the chin. Especially on the moustache, I can get this area pretty clean by making an "o" with my mouth and then shaving ATG, but never without a trail of blood!

QUESTION: Could lack of devoted preparation attention be the culprit in these areas? Do any of you do something special to prep these areas?

Excellent work!

Loved that you put the question at the end, you are just missing the:

To your question, I'm unsure if you need more prep on a few spots. Maybe do shorter strokes and pay special attention to your blade angle. Which should be pretty much right by now. What you could do is try Kyle's prep on top of what you do already as a prep and see how you go. It should give you an indication if you need more prep or not.

**honed** · 02-09-2011, 03:31 AM

Impressive diary Gustav!

I seldom go ATG on the mo, when I do, it has to be a super-sharp razor i.e, 0.25 diamond, 30K Shapton or similar.
Everything else leaves a trail of blood. Not worth it for me.

I generally go N-S, Nose-Ear, Ear-Nose, last pass with rather tight streching with free hand on cheek.

**Gustav** · 02-09-2011, 11:25 PM

Shave #110

I cannot help reporting on this mornings shave. Today I used my Clas Törnblom 4/8 faux frameback and the difference to the Le Grelot could not be greater. This light razor out-maneuvers the heavy TI in nearly every respect. I could just whizz across my face in complete security with little or no loss of blood. On difficult spots you can just tuck it around the stubble and shave it off. The smaller scales do not get in the way as much as the TI's. At the end of it all I got a near miss BBS with very little irritation.

**Gustav** · 04-19-2011, 08:15 AM

Shave number 131

For my 1000th post on this forum, I thought I would blow the dust off my old diary-thread and make a short update on the latest developments.

Progress has been really slow lately, but there is progress nonetheless. I have learnt to get the chin area really smooth, the lip-areas can still be a bit tricky but if I really concentrate I can get that clean too. Mostly I do not bother because by settling for DFS I avoid a lot of nicks in this area.

The area under the jawbone is the one I am most proud of: I can now shave, for instance, the right under-the jaw bone area under my right cheek, holding the razor in my right hand, starting from the ear and going towards the mouth whilst stretching the skin with my left hand. The trick is to hold the razor with the point downwards and the tang upwards, thus doing an "inverted" XTG pass. The stretching forces the skin over the jawline providing a much smoother and safer ride. It sounds complex like this but it is a sinch once you get the hang of it.

Apart from that, the recent study on the merits of the BBW hone has convinced me to get hold of these very affordable stones and start to work on some honing skills. I will get back to you once I have made my first attempts.

**Luc** · 04-19-2011, 07:59 PM

Congrats on the 1000th!

**Gustav** · 05-03-2011, 01:10 AM

Shave number 136

C.V. Heljestrand 5/8 Wedge
HJM Boar
Proraso cream as preshave
Speick SS
Alverde ASB

I decided to give the wedge a shot again after enjoying 7 fabulous shaves with the Boker that I bought from Luc. I have had some pretty bad nicks from the wedge and I will admit to being a bit frightened by it. But yesterday the stars aligned and after lathering up and starting my first stroke, I was rewarded with the most comfortable feeling I have ever had with a straight, it felt completely effortless, like running a hot knife through a vat of butter.

After the first WTG pass, I noticed that it had removed quite a bit more stubble than my other straights. I also noticed that the razor moved better if I kept the spine further from my face than I would with a hollow straight. Needless to say I shall continue shaving with this straight for some time in the near future.

**Luc** · 05-03-2011, 01:53 AM

Awesome!!

My Wedge is scheduled to be used tomorrow morning!

**global_dev** · 05-03-2011, 04:46 AM

nice, the feeling of a fresh blade is sweet...

**Gustav** · 05-11-2011, 12:23 AM

Shave #139

C.V. Heljestrand no 23 5/8 Wedge
Muehle Pure badger
Proraso cream as preshave
Speick SS
Nivea Sensitive ASB

Still shaving with the wedge and enjoying it a lot, it is a mean and unforgiving razor but one you get the hang of it, it does a very neat job. Yesterday I decided to massage the cream thoroughly into my chin and moustache area and then leave the cream on my face while I stropped my blade. I then applied the hot towel, rinsed my face and lathered up. After that I enjoyed one of the smoothest shaves I have ever had especially on the chin and moustache area. The result was a near miss BBS. So it looks like the runt of the 2010 straight razor class

might achieve BBS after all just by paying more attention to his prep.

On another note, the BBW:s were delivered to me yesterday. Naturally I want to try them out as soon as possible. To start with I thought I might tune a honed blade that feels a bit.

Question: Is there any risk that I dull the blade or mess up the bevel by honing on the BBW?

**Gustav** · 06-29-2011, 01:44 PM

I managed to locate a NOS C.V.Heljestrand the other day and the seller said that although it has a factory edge some really thorough stropping should make it shave ready. So I did 100 laps on TI shave paste and then 100 laps on leather. To my surprise and delight it gave me a really fine shave. The razor, a 5/8 Full hollow only bearing the name "Kloster" as distinguishing feature on the back side of the tang is most probably one of their last series since it was part of small consignement that the seller had bought from the company before it stopped manufacturing razors. I will post pics once I have found my USB adaptor.