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History of Shaving Technology Science: Past & Future!

After recently successfully getting into DE's, I started thinking about this.

Basically, Shaving can be explained via just a handful of distinct periods in time. Just humor me and follow along (you probably know most of this anyway):

As we presently know it 1971-2010
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In 1971, Gillette introduced the twin-blade razor, with two parallel blades housed within a replaceable cartridge.
Though it didn't represent any real conceptual novelty, this type marks the debut of the razor's most recent evolutionary phase.

(Coincidently, the very first episode of Saturday Night Live in 1975 parodied this with a bit called "Triple-Trac".
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"The Triple-Trac. Because you'll believe anything." 23 years prior to the Mach3.
When Schick introduced their Quattro razor in 2004 The Onion wrote up we're doing five blades.
Inevitably this also came true with the release of the five-bladed Gillette Fusion in 2006.

More recently, six-bladed monstrosities have indeed started showing up.)


In actuality, there have been similar razors available since the 1930s.
The revolution that occurred in the 70s happened from a marketing standpoint. Gillette put its full weight behind the twin-blade concept with a huge advertising blitz, everyone was taught that two blades were better than one through billions of dollars spent on advertising.

The reason this transpired was because of a push-back was needed against Gillette's arch-nemesis Schick/Philips.

Rise of the Machines (Dry Shaving) 1949-1969
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In the late 1940's a battery powered shaver appeared, which freed a man from his outlet. Electric razors became part of the cultural landscape, suggesting both affluence and modernity. Many popular films from that era have scenes of prominent actors shaving with dry razors; Jimmy Stewart uses one in Rear Window, as does Humphrey Bogart in Sabrina Fair.

By 1969, one-third of men in the U.K. and two-thirds in the U.S. were using electric razors.

So I think this neatly explains how we arrive at:
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:blink:


As your Grandpa used to know it 1904-1949
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King Camp Gillette's original design for a razor. U.S. Patent & Trade Office

There are three major innovations happening here:

  1. Improvement over existing razor designs at the time
  2. One of the greatest business models ever devised
  3. Marketing

Let's do this in reverse order.

Marketing/Popularization

In 1903, they went into production – and a whopping fifty razors were sold. But by 1906, 300,000 razors and 500,000 blades were purchased. When World War I began, the U.S. government ordered 3.5 million razors and 36 million blades for its soldiers.

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Certainly one reason for shaving during WWI is the fact that it was the first war to see chemical agents used on the battlefield. Soldiers had to use gas masks for the first time. In order for a gas mask to fit properly, you need to be clean-shaven. The army bought millions of Gillette razors and blades to make shaving possible.

When all of the soldiers returned from WWI with their clean-shaven faces, they were heroes. They appeared in their home towns, and they also appeared in newsreels in the new movie theaters that had sprung up everywhere. Combined with ad campaigns from companies like Gillette, it became the fashion to be clean shaven and a whole generation was introduced to the brand.

Business Model

Millions of people would be shaving, and these people would be using one of Gillette's blades every week. If Gillette made a little m oney off of each blade, he would become fabulously wealthy.
Hence, you could sell the razor at a loss (i.e. - "Loss Leader") and make money from the blades. To this day, this is what Gillette does.
an industry insider has claimed that the Fusion range of blades cost only $0.08 each to manufacture, yet sell for up to $3.52, a mark-up of more than 4,750%.

They also up-sell you to a battery powered version, conveniently Gillette's parent company Procter & Gamble also owns Duracell. :001_rolle

Improvement over existing razor designs at the time

Well, this is really the business isn't it? I mean, we have Science in the title. So for this, we shall have a Part II. But hopefully the history bit was interesting and explains how and why there have been no real advancements since 1904!
 
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All of this begs the question: What the hell did normal people do before Gillette came along?!
And the answer is - nothing! Shaving regularly is distinctively a 20th century sort of thing. Which is pretty bizarre and hard to wrap your head around if I do say so myself.

The clean shaven look has been going in and out of style all the way back to Roman and Egyptian times (and beyond, as there is stone age evidence that seashells and later sharp flint was used for this occasionally).
However shaving your own face, never mind on a regular basis, was pretty much unthinkable for obvious reasons. In theory, your typical Roman could use any old pointy thing - like an axe or a sword.
But not with satisfactory results. :tongue_sm
Besides possibly taking your head off, there's always the possibility that a rusty cut will do you in. Hence, Barbers (or slaves/servants) were the only option. And a painful one at that.

Once metallurgy has been refined in any civilization, however, the technology of knives and scissors follows soon after. These cutting tools become more and more refined, and these refinements lead to the development of the razor -- the sharpest knife possible. With a very sharp knife, it is possible to begin shaving.

It just so happens that it took humanity until the 19th century to get there.
And so it came to pass that in Sheffield, England (in a shed as Jeremy Clarkson would no doubt say), Straight Steel Razors were produced, and remain in demand until the mid 1800s. The bad news is these razors become dull quickly, so they have to be honed and stropped frequently in order to use over and over.

We can do better
On January 10, 1847, William Samuel Henson of Somerset, England filed for a patent showing a detachable comb tooth guard for a straight folding razor and another razor employing a similar guard “…the cutting blade which of which is at right angles with the handle, and resembles somewhat the form of a common hoe.” The handle was attached by screwing it into a tapped hole in a short forged blade.
This may have been first patent for a hoe-type guard razor and one of the first razors to use a short section of a straight razor as a blade.

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It is only apt that such a major contribution to Shaving would come from an individual with such glorious facial hair.

Finally, by 1880 this idea was perfected almost completely:
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I present you The Kampfe Bothers-Star Razor - World's first "modern" Safety Razor. The Star blade still required stropping prior to each use and occasional skillful honing. This spawned many patents on stropping and honing devices. The Kampfe brothers ultimately acquired over 50 patents on razors and stropping devices and "automatic" stroppers were included in their high-end razor sets.

But normal people won't strop, and the rest of the story you know.
==
Bibliography:
One thousand beards: a cultural history of facial hair By Allan D. Peterkin
The Shaving Historical Timeline
Article reproduced from the Italian publication Stileindustria, No. 2, May 1995.
From Perret to Kampfe: Origins of the Safety Razor
Safety Razor Of the Week, 9/14-9/20 The Kampfe Bothers-Star Razor
 
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The following video dear fellows, is ****:
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWSTE6WLB0Y[/YOUTUBE]

Obsidian stones!

Clearly, I'm not suggesting that a straight razor made out of this material would be superior.
But as the Gillette model is clearly the most profitable one possible - things have stagnated for far too long (as there was no financial incentive to keep perfecting this).
Metallurgy has come a long way since the 19th century, our knowledge of materials and manufacturing processes is much improved. In fact there have been major leaps forwards, space age materials, nano materials, 'etc.

I would argue that a Star Razor-like razor (really, just a regular DE form factor) with a blade that requires no strobing and honing is the holy grail. And I'd like to open this up to discussion now, as I wrote enough, heh.
 
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A very good read and informative at several levels. There has been talk about making a "lifetime" razor (one that that would never need sharpening) for at least 10 years. I recall a prototype made from advanced ceramics that fit the bill perfectly. However, the "obstacle" is that razor could cost over $200. Would you pay $200 dollars for a razor that would last forever? I would.
 
Thanks for that Eugene, a great read and informative too. I didn't know the trac was invented at the same time as me!
The Onion artical could have been starred i.e. F**K as we don't often see swear in open talk here on B&B. :thumbup1:
 
A very good read and informative at several levels. There has been talk about making a "lifetime" razor (one that that would never need sharpening) for at least 10 years. I recall a prototype made from advanced ceramics that fit the bill perfectly. However, the "obstacle" is that razor could cost over $200. Would you pay $200 dollars for a razor that would last forever? I would.

I would as well. Would love some links to these discussions.
The other way to innovate is automatic stroping and honing.

You place your razor into a dock, which is basically a glorified microscope (but the positioning is fixed) with a little computer chip. So I think at the very least it could recognize whether any action is needed or whether its good to use - I really think that is quite doable since we can easily do fingerprint and retina scanning, amongst other things.

The next step is for it to do all the sharpening for you to perfection. I think a little electric motor with two moving parts that mimics the human motions required shouldn't be too complicated either.
 
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Great read and thank you for making the effort to put this together!

One possible typo: don't you mean the futur of shaving? :biggrin:
 
Are any of the Henson razors known to survive? I read somewhere that they were very popular for a while. Does anyone have a photograph of the actual razor?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
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