Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Do I need to buy a lower grit to get sharper?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    6,797
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)

    Default Do I need to buy a lower grit to get sharper?

    So I am new to honing and wanted to seek some advice. The lowest grit I've purchased so far is a 3k naniwa. My thought process in using that as a starting point was that I'd only be honing razor in relatively good shape without chips or major damage. I'm a few razors into learning to hone and have been relatively pleased with the comfort of results, but there's definitely room to improve the sharpness.

    My question is whether or not my baseline start in the progression should be a 1k or is this more likely a byproduct of my inexperience?

    Thanks,
    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    A Guitar Shaped Pool
    Posts
    18,567
    Images
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Bevels are key. If you don't have a good bevel, the razor will never shave well. You can set a good bevel with a 3K hone but (there's always a but) if it requires removing a lot of metal, you'll be there a while. My favorite is a 12" DMT EF (1.2K)

    Whether or not you choose to go to a lower grit hone, stay on it until the razor passes the TNT.
    Henry

    My Kit

    henry (@) badgerandblade.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Pandora
    Posts
    8,191
    Images
    104
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    6,797
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by professorchaos View Post
    Bevels are key. If you don't have a good bevel, the razor will never shave well. You can set a good bevel with a 3K hone but (there's always a but) if it requires removing a lot of metal, you'll be there a while. My favorite is a 12" DMT EF (1.2K)

    Whether or not you choose to go to a lower grit hone, stay on it until the razor passes the TNT.

    Thanks! To follow up on that, are there different product lines within the DMT series? I'm trying to find/buy the one you recommend but might not be looking in the right area. I saw a 1200 Dia-Sharp @ SRD, but it was only 8" so I wasn't sure if that's the one.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    4,248
    Images
    60
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    if you in a pinch 600 grit wet dry paper is divine at setting bevels

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Pandora
    Posts
    8,191
    Images
    104
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Obiwan View Post
    Thanks! To follow up on that, are there different product lines within the DMT series? I'm trying to find/buy the one you recommend but might not be looking in the right area. I saw a 1200 Dia-Sharp @ SRD, but it was only 8" so I wasn't sure if that's the one.
    The Perfect Shave is where I've purchased a few coticules and other product in the past and they have been a pleasure to deal with.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    6,797
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ambrose View Post
    if you in a pinch 600 grit wet dry paper is divine at setting bevels
    I have plenty of 600 grit wet/dry paper hanging around the house, but to be honest, I've always been a bit hesitant to try it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    4,103
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Obiwan View Post
    I have plenty of 600 grit wet/dry paper hanging around the house, but to be honest, I've always been a bit hesitant to try it.
    No worries, I use it all the time on eBay specials.
    Wet it down properly, wrap it around another hone & hone away.
    Just treat it like a low grit hone, i.e it removes a lot of metal fast.
    I honed several chipped razors just using 600k sandpaper & a coticule.
    And the edge is just as good as any.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    15,037
    Images
    53
    Mentioned
    31 Post(s)

    Default

    The key when using sandpaper is to ensure that it remains FLAT while honing on it.

    Wet it out ona piece of glass, tape it down, whatever.




    Other than that, 3k should be fine for setting bevels, but may take a while.
    One, two! One, two! and through and through...The Vorpal blade went snicker-snack!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Posts
    756
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    You can build a slurry on the 3k to speed it up a bit, but having a good bevel setter is really important.

    Setting the bevel is the most important part of the honing progression.
    Not Banned for Life (from any forum)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    A Guitar Shaped Pool
    Posts
    18,567
    Images
    1
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Obiwan View Post
    Thanks! To follow up on that, are there different product lines within the DMT series? I'm trying to find/buy the one you recommend but might not be looking in the right area. I saw a 1200 Dia-Sharp @ SRD, but it was only 8" so I wasn't sure if that's the one.
    That looks like the same hone, only shorter. I went with the 12" because the extra 4" means fewer laps. When you are honing out chips or working on an Ebay special, it adds up pretty quickly.
    Henry

    My Kit

    henry (@) badgerandblade.com

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    RI
    Posts
    6,797
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Thread Starter

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by professorchaos View Post
    Bevels are key. If you don't have a good bevel, the razor will never shave well. You can set a good bevel with a 3K hone but (there's always a but) if it requires removing a lot of metal, you'll be there a while. My favorite is a 12" DMT EF (1.2K)

    Whether or not you choose to go to a lower grit hone, stay on it until the razor passes the TNT.
    I picked up a DMT 1200 and used it as my starting grit last night. What a difference with a good bevel! I shaved with it this morning and it made all the difference. This was very encouranging.

    Thanks again!!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    15,037
    Images
    53
    Mentioned
    31 Post(s)

    Default

    DMT 1200 is the King of bevel setters!
    One, two! One, two! and through and through...The Vorpal blade went snicker-snack!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Modena, Italy
    Posts
    1,665
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    My lowest grit stone is the 4K side of the 4K/8K combo. I took a chip out on the 4K. I made a slurry to make it cut faster and worked for about an hour. My point is that the main difference between that and a lower grit stone or abrasive paper is speed. If you're not doing a lot of honing, you may not need the speed.

    One word of caution about the TNT (Thumb Nail Test): it's indicator that the bevel is set but also messes up the edge, so after the razor passes the TNT you have to go back and hone some more to undo the damage. Shaving arm hair will also give you an indication that the bevel is set (test point, center and heel). Some newbies have done the TNT at the end of finishing and that's not a good idea.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Avondale, PA
    Posts
    11,338
    Images
    3
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)

    Default

    My lowest grit stone is an 80 grit Norton Sanding belt. ;)

    But 99% of the time I stick with my 220grit DMT.

    I never use the TNT, but I've seen some very experienced barbers do it on a finished razor, so I'd venture a guess that it damages an edge because we don't know how to do it properly. I've also heard barbers suggest using something very similar to a TNT after beveling to remove any wire edge or burrs before polishing.

    Razor honing is at best an inexact science, so what damages an edge for one man may be a standard step in honing for another, there are a lot of variables in play.

    To be honest I've used straight razors to trim my nails at 8k honing (I keep a box of razors @ 8k to use as a quick source of razors to experiment with finishing hones) and not done any damage to the edge either in performance or under 400x scope. I'm sure it depends on the particular razor though.

    My favorite way to check a bevel is TPT (only time I use it really) or arm/leg hair shave test (though it takes a bit of pressure to shave armhair at 1200 for me, and you run out of it quickly, it's nice because if you do a broad swipe it VERY clearly demonstrates which part of the edge isn't ready yet).
    Last edited by SliceOfLife; 06-23-2010 at 07:54 PM.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Edinburgh, Scotland
    Posts
    1,790
    Images
    29
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ambrose View Post
    if you in a pinch 600 grit wet dry paper is divine at setting bevels
    Quote Originally Posted by honed View Post
    No worries, I use it all the time on eBay specials.
    Wet it down properly, wrap it around another hone & hone away.
    Just treat it like a low grit hone, i.e it removes a lot of metal fast.
    I honed several chipped razors just using 600k sandpaper & a coticule.
    And the edge is just as good as any.
    Quote Originally Posted by Seraphim View Post
    The key when using sandpaper is to ensure that it remains FLAT while honing on it.

    Wet it out ona piece of glass, tape it down, whatever.




    Other than that, 3k should be fine for setting bevels, but may take a while.
    If using Wet and Dry Sandpaper to set a bevel, do you work spine first or edge first?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Modena, Italy
    Posts
    1,665
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pumpkin View Post
    If using Wet and Dry Sandpaper to set a bevel, do you work spine first or edge first?
    Edge first, like honing.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    4,103
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chimensch View Post
    Edge first, like honing.
    Yes, that is why it is so important that it remains flat thru out the process

Similar Threads

  1. Changing from low grit to high grit on a pasted strop
    By Proinsias in forum Strops/Stropping
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 12-14-2011, 09:34 AM
  2. Are some sharper than others?
    By gull in forum General Straight Razor Talk
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 11-16-2010, 03:31 PM
  3. Which is sharper...?
    By Geordon in forum General Shaving Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-01-2010, 01:25 AM
  4. Sharper than feather?
    By mikromicke in forum Safety Razor Blades
    Replies: 26
    Last Post: 02-10-2010, 01:35 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
By accessing Badger & Blade, you agree to abide by the Terms of Usage. You can find our Privacy Policy here.
Once submitted, any posts, images, or content become the property of Badger & Blade.
Powered by vBulletin® - Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.