
Originally Posted by
cstrother
Great thread. Thanks for the compliment on my earlier post, SlagleRock, but you really should not encourage me! (And I apologize for the excess of typos.)
I wanted to add some more scents to my earlier list and set out some additional thoughts.
But first, in response to Obsessed, I am clearly in the minority in not being drawn to DC 1913. I would never want to discourage anyone from trying it. If one is making a survey of important rose-oriented scents, DC 1913 almost has to be included.
Now ones I inadvertently left off, including a very important one, and a discovery I made that undermines all of my comments here.
First, Pen's Hamman Bouquet. A very old and important. To me predominately rose-- a dark rose, Otto/Turkish rose, it is said, although not as a “dark” as some modern ones, like 88. Dusty, dirty, late-Victorian, complex, mysterious, evolving . In my imagination what the late 1800s dandy or rake would wear. To me there is a lot going on besides rosy baby oil, as suggested by some commenters.
Second, Pen's Elixir. Supposedly something of an update to HB, which makes sense to me, except when I compare them side-by-side, the HB is loaded with rose while rose is a minor element in Elixir. Which, I admit, does not make sense update-wise and means Elixir does not belong on this list. (Opus 1870 and Endymion also have rose, but perhaps not enough to be subjects of this thread. Folks should feel free to disagree!)
Third, GFT Coral Skin Food. Smells very pure and tea/Bourbon rosey to me, so maybe substantial geranium. Seems for some reason not feminine though. Maybe Thayers rose witch hazel should be on the list, too. Smells great, but is light, with little tenacity.
Fourth, and leading to “my discovery”--C&S “Rose.” An obvious one. Like Pen’s Elisabethan Rose, marketed as feminine, but useable as unisex, especially layered with something clearly masculine.
By memory, I would have said that C&S Rose and Pen’s ER smelled nearly identically. Both light, fresh, tea/bourbon roses, not intended to be anything other than linear, one accord, “simple,” straight forward scents. Each the epitome of a “soliflore.”
But putting one of the back of each hand, they were far from identical, although each seemed pretty much all of the foregoing.
I happened to have the C&S sample card in front of me: “essence of delicate bourbon rose intertwined with a green thread of fresh geranium. At the heart, warm, floral notes of ylang ylang and soothing mimosa mingle with exotic, velvety undertones of patchouli . . . .” So, I thought, that is impressive. Real perfumery at work. Ylang, ylang, mimosa, and, of all things, patchouli, and it all adds up to my nose to be a simple, linear tea rose? That is skill. That is magic. But with that write up in front of me, concentrating I think I can smell those elements, especially against the Pen’s ER, which really does then seemed to be a simple and pure high quality essence of rose petals.
I am thinking, what an amazing comparison—the “real thing” in Pen’s versus high scent-maker art/magic of C&S.
That is what I was thinking until I looked up Pen’s description of ER: “playful and wistful interpretation of the classic British rose. The head notes of geranium and aldehydes make this fragrance sing and dance while camomile, violet and of course rose swell the heart notes, filling your senses with the intoxicating aroma of bruised rose petals. The surprising base notes include musk, amber and sandalwood . . . .” Rose is listed only as a middlenote.
So, I apparently know nothing and should not be commenting in this thread at all!
Pen’s ER still smells to me very much a simple natural tea/bourbon rose scent and still seems very, very consistent and absolutely linear beginning to end. I did also notice that the C&S Rose has a medium tenacity, with a fairly consistent gradual fade into non-existence. But the Pen’s ER has very, very impressive tenacity. It drops down in intensity early on, but then seems to hold at a specific level for an amazingly long, perhaps record setting, time. Pretty interesting for something that is not overpowering when first applied.
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