Merkur Progress Adjustments Pics

**rhett121** · 02-10-2007, 09:34 AM

Since I saw it asked (or questioned really), I figured I would take some pictures of what a Merkur Progress looks like up close in it's adjusted range.

note: The theory is exactly the same for ANY adjustable razor, the method of adjusting might be a little different but the results are exactly the same.

You are moving the blade AWAY from the guard. Not exactly changing the angle of the blade as much as changing the angle between the blade and the safety guard. I hope this makes it easier for those of you without an adjustable razor to visualize.

This is with the razor fully closed at 1

This is with the knob turned up to 5+

**galpman** · 02-10-2007, 10:11 AM

Nice job of displaying the cross section with comments. Makes it easy to distinguish.

**Bob Dobbs** · 02-10-2007, 10:26 AM

Great photos Rhett!

Thanks for taking the time to post them. Another great example of why we're all here!

It looks to me that the Progress uses the inverse adjustment principle as the Vision where the guard lowers while the blade stays static.

But ultimately, the result is exactly the same.

**Barbelus maximus** · 02-10-2007, 10:37 AM

Excellent pictures Rhett

This clearly explains to all that the blade does not change at all, but the gap opens thus exposing what is effectively a deeper cutting edge which with incorrect pressure can take more 'skin' than it should, hence the aggression terminology( I think )

Paul.

**stubblebgone** · 02-10-2007, 03:10 PM

For someone who hasn't got an adjustable (yet) those are very useful pictures.

Thanks!

Vin.

**htownmmm** · 02-10-2007, 04:38 PM

Nice job!(and pictures).

Marty

**mjsorkin** · 02-10-2007, 05:41 PM

Wow, I always imagined that working differently. Thanks for the great info.

-----Michael

andrewk · 02-12-2007, 02:41 AM

Fantastic info! The next question that flows naturally from this is:

"What benefit does an adjustable DE give, over a conventional razor?"

I'm currently using a razor that cost £3.50 from Boots. I think it came with 10 blades (you can imagine how good they are). I want to upgrade, but need to decide whether to go for adjustable, or classic style. Will I be missing out, buying a cheaper classic over an all-singing, all-dancing adjustable? I'm also reading about build quality issues with some adjustables - that can't be good.

What do you think?

**019** · 02-12-2007, 06:17 AM

great stuff! this explained things much better and gave me a very good understanding of how adjustable razors work. all i knew before was that more blade got exposed

**rhett121** · 02-12-2007, 11:17 PM

Originally Posted by andrewk

Fantastic info! The next question that flows naturally from this is:

"What benefit does an adjustable DE give, over a conventional razor?"

I'm currently using a razor that cost £3.50 from Boots. I think it came with 10 blades (you can imagine how good they are). I want to upgrade, but need to decide whether to go for adjustable, or classic style. Will I be missing out, buying a cheaper classic over an all-singing, all-dancing adjustable? I'm also reading about build quality issues with some adjustables - that can't be good.

What do you think?

The main benefit is that you CAN experiment with different settings. If your feeling timid or just want a quickie touch-up you can turn it down to 1-1.5 and move along.
Feeling brave and want to know what a 50's "Red-tip" feels like? Been on a camping trip and haven't shaved in a week? Crank it up to 5 (Progress) or 7 (Gillette).

I usually leave my Gillette Slim Adjustable around 3.5 and my Merkur Progress around 2.5. I "can" adjust both of them if I want to though.

There's too many to pick from to try to get just one razor but if I had to, it would be the Merkur Progress. It's reasonably priced ($39 delivered to B&B members from LeesRazors.com), infinitely adjustable and decently constructed. The chrome job is nowhere the quality of Vintage Gillette's, but it is an excellent shaver none the less.
A very close second would be an Aristocrat, it's only downfall is that it's a fixed blade, but that's not really such a problem as it still shaves like a dream.

Here's a tip for Progress buyers: Without a blade installed, when the head is fully screwed down the "dot" should align between the 5 and + (as seen in the the first image of the second series above). This way when you install a blade it will start off on "1" (see first photo). If however you mail-order one and it doesn't align properly, it should still work fine. Just do the math to find the right setting and remember it for future reference.

andrewk · 02-13-2007, 12:59 AM

Thanks for the advice! That's a great price for a progress - I'm just going to email Lee and check that this still stands, as he's not selling the Progress on his website (as far as I can see) (Although I hadn't realised that he only posted that offer last week

). Now I've just got to find a good cheap supply of Derby or Israeli blades...

**rhett121** · 02-13-2007, 08:44 AM

WELL! Since you brought it up...

I am going to make a separate thread about this... Look HERE for your blades.

**Racso_MS** · 02-13-2007, 10:46 AM

My problem with the Progress is that when there is no blade in the razor the setting is at #1. When a blade is in the razor it goes to the #2,

If MER (Eric) modifies the razor with the new knob will it effect the adjustment action. Improve or worsen.

**rhett121** · 02-13-2007, 11:24 AM

It shouldn't effect the "action" as much as it will make the razor heavier and give a better feeling knob to the adjuster.

It's surprising how much of your sensory perception is based on "feel". With a nice heavy knob on the end, the extra weight of that knob makes the action "feel" smoother.
If you pull out the bottom adjustment knob on the Progress (it's easy, it's just held in place by an expansion ring so give it a gentle tug) you will see that the numbers are engraved/pressed onto a separate metal ring that is glued onto the plastic handle.
IF you were to order the custom knob, I'm sure he could realign the ring so that it sits properly. That's why I added the tip about where the numbers should be without a blade inside. If you were so inclined, you could potentially move this band yourself if you could get the glue bond to loosen up. I tried turning it myself a little bit (it didn't budge) but of the three razors I have only one isn't perfectly aligned and that one isn't bad (maybe 1.2 or so loaded). I will try to experiment a little and see if I can find a method of fixing this without destroying the razor.

p.s. I have found that by adding a small amount of Vasoline to the threads of the head and a small amount to the top of the number band (where it contacts the handle) the action is much smoother turning.