Derby or a sharper blade for new shavers?

Short version - using a Gillette SS and Derby blade after 10 or so DS wet shaves I found my neck was requiring more passes than I expected (technique I'm sure is most of the issue). However, after testing the edge of a Derby vs a Gillette Yellow 7-O'Clock blade I found a significant difference in sharpness.

Swapped the Derby out of my normal shave routine for the 7-O'Clock and got a remarkably better shave in only 3 NS passes with no burn or irritation even on my neck. The technique and tools were all exactly the same as my previous shaves. A bit of finger testing the edge of a new Derby vs the Gillette Yellow there is a remarkable difference in sharpness.

Just wondering if, perhaps, a sharper blade might be a better option for new shavers to avoid using extra head pressure or razor burn inducing extra passes because the blade isn't performing? Respect the tool and technique and cutting one's self should not be an issue regardless of the blade.

I bought 100 derby blades and was not impressed at all. Of coarse I ended up getting the crappy ones, see this thread-

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=134587&highlight=vertical+derby

That may be the problem

If I understand you correctly you are attempting to get 10 shaves out of a blade? If that is the case ...that is way to many shaves to expect out of any blade. I use Feathers and can "safely" get five to six shaves out of a blade...however the last couple are not always BBS. I personally never had very good luck with the Derby blades. I have a mediumn to heavy beard and they just irritated my skin..much like you describe. If you have a heavier beard I suggest trying a Feather. Really they are not "dangerous" at all.
Happy Shaves

After going through my sample pack of blades from WCS I found I wasn't a big fan of Derby's. I did find that sharper blade's work much better for me because I don't need to spend that much time on my neck doing touch up's. (This usually leads to cuts and razor burn) I even found that a more aggressive razor and a sharp blade work the best for me. I now use a Merkur Slant with Gillette Sweedes and I'm getting excellent results with no nicks or irritation. But I know this has more to do with my technique than anything because I had to slow down and pay more attention to what I was doing. I think it depends on a person's learning curve but for me a sharper blade helped improve my technique dramatically. For someone new a sharp blade might turn them off of DE shaving if they end up butchering their face.

mark2cars said:

If I understand you correctly you are attempting to get 10 shaves out of a blade? If that is the case ...that is way to many shaves to expect out of any blade. I use Feathers and can "safely" get five to six shaves out of a blade...however the last couple are not always BBS. I personally never had very good luck with the Derby blades. I have a mediumn to heavy beard and they just irritated my skin..much like you describe. If you have a heavier beard I suggest trying a Feather. Really they are not "dangerous" at all.
Happy Shaves

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Good clarification, when I compared the "finger" sharpness of the Derby to the Gillette 7-O'Clock they were both brand new, when I shaved with the Derby I maxed out at 2 shaves, 3 passes before replacing.

I believe mine are of the "new" Derby variety that people are less impressed with lately (the Derby logo is parallel with the short side of the rectangular container).

bladeruner said:

After going through my sample pack of blades from WCS I found I wasn't a big fan of Derby's. I did find that sharper blade's work much better for me because I don't need to spend that much time on my neck doing touch up's. (This usually leads to cuts and razor burn) I even found that a more aggressive razor and a sharp blade work the best for me. I now use a Merkur Slant with Gillette Sweedes and I'm getting excellent results with no nicks or irritation. But I know this has more to do with my technique than anything because I had to slow down and pay more attention to what I was doing. I think it depends on a person's learning curve but for me a sharper blade helped improve my technique dramatically. For someone new a sharp blade might turn them off of DE shaving if they end up butchering their face.

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In contrast someone trying to learn DE shaving with a dull or poorly performing blade like the Derby may find themselves equally turned off by the experience due to the poor performance (extra passes required) and resulting razor burn. A dull blade may also allow someone to develop poor technique that makes them more susceptible to cuts/nicks with a sharper blade.

IMHO - better to reinforce and respect the importance of good technique with a less forgiving sharp blade before complacence/comfort with the process creates bad habits.

yuppiejr, the correct blade for you is the one that you find, through experimenting with different blades, gives you the best shave. Nobody can tell you which one is going to work for you. Just enjoy the hunt to find your perfect shave.

Yuppiejr,
I started with a sampler pack and selected the Derby's. Used them for three weeks, they seemed ok. Switched to Super Iridium and got a better shave. then swithced to an Aristocrat and got a BBS today.

It's gonna take a while to get through the sampler pack and figure out which blade works best in which razor.

Hang in there and keep good notes

Gary

For most people, starting with a milder blade is the right route to follow. When we start out, there are so many moving parts and variables that remembering things like no pressure can get lost in the action. once technique improves, moving on to sharper blades is fine. After several months under your belt, go back and try some of the blades you didn't like at first, because your technique may have been the problem the first go around, and not the blade. I started with Derbys didn't like them, and then tried them again later. They were worse than I remembered .

i started with derby verticals and they felt "unstable" to me and I stopped after 2 shaves. when i tried an israeli red pack personna, it felt sharper, smoother and better overall. so far my only bbs was with a red pack in my HD. feather schooled me, but i am still a newb so i'm gonna stay away from it for a bit longer and come back to it later.

Vertical Derby's didn't agree with my face at all. I find Iridiums and Red IPs give me a better shave with less iritation. Definitely recommend purchasing a pack of each and trying them.

Personally, I think the SS isn't very aggressive so i like to pair it with a more aggressive blade like a feather.

Head pressure isn't ever the answer.

I always see this, people recommend Derby blades for newbies.

Look, Derby's are known not to be "the best." For some people, they ARE the best; for some people, Merkur blades work better than anything else, too. But we all know some blades are "better" than others.

Feathers, we all seem to agree, are horrible for beginners. It's not that they're sharp (as everyone says); they're so freaking rough, they drag on the skin if you don't have perfect lather, they cut and knick and burn. This is the same problem with Merkur, very sharp but drags so bad and gives razor burn.

Gillette 7 O'Clocks, Astras, and the like are all known to be polished or coated smooth. The consensus seems to point towards 7 O'Clock yellow packs, though Astras are also put up there... a lot of people think those are the best, and the Swedish steel Gillette Platinums used to be the top rung.

I recommend something sharp but very smooth to start with. Maybe the Feather's sharper than those yellow packs... but the yellow packs will still glide way smoother in my experience, and they don't yield sharpness like Derby does. The quality control is better than Derby too. I think they're a good newbie blade, along with Astra or Bluebird.

Yes, ditch the Derby crap and go with the yellow packs until you're comfortable experimenting. As a bonus, you've already noticed they work better for you.

I had trouble with the sharper blades when I started getting serious with DE. Fearhers gave me a terrible shave and I shelved them.

I mostly used Bic and Red IP blades and eventually started getting excellent shaves with them.

Then I tried the Gillette yellow 7 O'clocks and got really, really good results. Then I tried Iridiums and gave Feathers another try. Wow - what a difference. The Feathers are now a favorite and I'm getting amazing shaves without irritation.

The learning curve and technique matter a lot with DE. What you don't like at first might become your favorite. Also, it makes a difference when you settle on a razor. I think I've settled on the DE89L. But I've got about 15 other razors I occasionally cycle through. I get good shaves with all of them now, but that DE89L is special.

My advice is to take it slow, try different blades and razors, and you'll eventually find what works for you. Don't rush it trying to find perfection right away. Enjoy the discovery and enjoy the journey.

The real issue is you. One noob may have more self-control and concntration. Therefore, they have no trouble understanding and obeying the rules of pressure and angle. Whereas, the next newbie isn't so lucky and takes two months to learn to not push so hard on the razor. As your technique improves, the right blade changes. Three months in, I knew the right blade for me. Several months later, my technique had improved and I haven't used that blade since. Just as there is no 'right' blade for everyone, there is no 'right' starter blade for everyone.

Uncle Erik said:

I had trouble with the sharper blades when I started getting serious with DE. Fearhers gave me a terrible shave and I shelved them.

I mostly used Bic and Red IP blades and eventually started getting excellent shaves with them.

Then I tried the Gillette yellow 7 O'clocks and got really, really good results. Then I tried Iridiums and gave Feathers another try. Wow - what a difference. The Feathers are now a favorite and I'm getting amazing shaves without irritation.

The learning curve and technique matter a lot with DE. What you don't like at first might become your favorite. Also, it makes a difference when you settle on a razor. I think I've settled on the DE89L. But I've got about 15 other razors I occasionally cycle through. I get good shaves with all of them now, but that DE89L is special.

My advice is to take it slow, try different blades and razors, and you'll eventually find what works for you. Don't rush it trying to find perfection right away. Enjoy the discovery and enjoy the journey.

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+1 well put

I think that blade sharpness vs. pressure is so subjective that the best answer is the one you discover for yourself. I think people that are prone to use too much pressure definitely need a more forgiving blade and those who jump right in with proper technique could probably go with as sharper blade. YMMV

Feathers are the greatest. Got good technique? Don't fear the Feathers. I have never cut myself with a Feather. I have with a Bic, but it may have been carelessness on my part

I started with Derby and almost gave up until I tried another blade. I think I went for sharks first from my sampler

I just used my first feather blade in my parker and had 3 weepers. The blade was so sharp, however, I didn't feel the cut at all, just noticed blood afterwards. Got a great smooth shave but it definitely tugged and skipped on my face a bit. I will give it another go as people seem to think the second and third shaves with a feather are better. I just placed an order for 10 Gillette silver-blues and 5 personna labs so we will see how those go. I found really poor results with the duller blades like merkurs and derby so I agree with you that even newbies should start with a good blade and go from there.