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Thread: Adding liquid glycerin to soaps??

  1. #1
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    Default Adding liquid glycerin to soaps??

    I have been combining milled glycerin soap and milled Tabac for shave sticks because I like a slicker lather.
    Any way, I bought liq. glycerin and was thinking of adding that to remill soaps.

    Has anyone an idea of how much glycerin I should use for half puck or even a whole? Im thinking a tsp maybe 2 but not sure.
    My favorite oxymoron : Parker Safety Razor

  2. #2
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    Default

    If you bowl lather I would just add a couple drops to the bowl.
    ~Anthony~

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leche View Post
    If you bowl lather I would just add a couple drops to the bowl.
    Agreed, but he's talking about making a puck into a shave stick. I'd say, as a guestimate, for a puck of soap maybe 60 drops or so? The danger of putting in too much is that the soap might not solidify they way you'd like it to. You could always go with about 30, that would almost certainly not effect the soap's hardening, but then you have to wonder whether it would provide as much glide as you'd like.
    Randall, member of BOTOC

  4. #4

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    I milled a half a puck of Tabac Saturday and put a little over a teaspoon in and mixed it up by hand before packing it back in the jar. It worked great, Try it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingfisher View Post
    Agreed, but he's talking about making a puck into a shave stick. I'd say, as a guestimate, for a puck of soap maybe 60 drops or so? The danger of putting in too much is that the soap might not solidify they way you'd like it to. You could always go with about 30, that would almost certainly not effect the soap's hardening, but then you have to wonder whether it would provide as much glide as you'd like.
    Quote Originally Posted by superspot View Post
    I milled a half a puck of Tabac Saturday and put a little over a teaspoon in and mixed it up by hand before packing it back in the jar. It worked great, Try it.
    Thanks .
    I did consider the problems with adding too much which is good advise.
    If 1 tsp. worked for a half a puck for you superspot ,then Ill try it.
    My favorite oxymoron : Parker Safety Razor

  6. #6

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    Glycerin is a byproduct of natural soap (saponified fats and oils). During the saponification process glycerin is produced approx. 3/1 (soap/glycerine), if I remember correctly.

    I have very little, if any experience with commercial products and I'm sure you guys were aware of that glycerin fact. I just thought I would point it out for the benefit of any casual readers.

  7. #7
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    Default Indian Store

    I just posted a thread about this maybe two weeks ago. I purchased Glycerin, Castor Oil, and Almond Oil for about 12 bucks at a large Indian market. Many people will tell you the same it does not work as I found out too.
    Joe
    www.shaveabuck.com Shaving Supplies Retailer/Vendor
    Importers of Lea, Rose of Bulgaria, Figaro, Barbon and Cadet Razors.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by gman41098 View Post
    I just posted a thread about this maybe two weeks ago. I purchased Glycerin, Castor Oil, and Almond Oil for about 12 bucks at a large Indian market. Many people will tell you the same it does not work as I found out too.
    I looked up your previous post to see just what you meant. It looks like you attempted to add oils and glycerin to a milled soap. I admire you for trying. But as you found out. It won't work. Soap is fatty acid salt. Oils turn into fatty acid salts (soap) through saponification (and give off glycerine in the process). The oils must be saponified. If you skip the saponification, you won't get soap or glycerine.

  9. #9
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    Default

    Yeah. You can add glycerin and possibly a small proportion of oils to milled soaps if you rebatch (double-boil the soap and mix in the additions while it resets). But this won't turn a bath soap into a usable shave soap. The reason bath soaps don't lather well doesn't seem to be anything that's missing. So unless you're adding shaving soap and adding it at a ratio that makes the original soap almost irrelevant, it's not going to work.

    If you want to home-batch soap, you'll need the fats, the lye, Wooden/Steel/Plastic tools (measuring cups, spoons, mixing buckets, Pots), High precision digital scales, safety equipment, fry thermometers (With a good eye for temps you can skip these, but they cost $5, so why), water (preferably distilled), vessels to let the soap set in after saponification, racks and 1-2months to let the soap cure. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff.

    When I mention adding glycerin to soaps I just put an eyedrop in while lathering.
    IanS Handmade Shaving Soaps
    Cinn Girl, LavLimeLanolin, Rosewood/Vetiver, & Orange/Geranium

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