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My Soap Journey

In the spirit of discovering high quality shave creams and soaps, I also decided to ditch the Dial and move up to a quality European triple milled soap. At the beginning of November, I started a rotation of seven bath soaps. Three months later, here's my findings. Unless noted, they were all purchased at Merz in Chicago.


1) Nesti Danti Cypress
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$9.95/8.8 ounce bar/$1.13 per ounce

This is my winner, and I can't wait to try other scents. Made in an old traditional manner of boiling for four days in open kettles constantly attended to by grizzled, master soap makers. The bar is dense and amazingly hard, yet yields the lushest, creamiest lather of the bunch. The Cypress scent is very lightly woody (think balsa wood almost) with a definite lemony note. Of all the soaps, this is the one whose aroma tends to linger on the skin for hours after a shower, and that's a good thing. A great base for following up with a Castle Forbes Lime or Blenheim Bouquet shave. As an added bonus, Nesti Dante's old soapmaking process seems to have produced the longest lasting bar of the group.

2) Whole Foods Organic Cedar-Vetiver Shea Butter Soap
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$5.99/8 ounce bar/$0.75 per ounce

An incredible value from Whole Foods for an organic, made in France, triple milled, shea butter soap. This particular variety has an incredibly woodsy aroma. Very masculine. Performance is along the lines of the regular shea butter soap which is to say excellent. Longevity has been very good and expected for a triple milled French bar.

3) South of France Shea Butter Soap (from Whole Foods)
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$4.99/8 ounce bar/$0.62 per ounce

The two Whole Foods bars are easily the best bargains of the bunch. Though not listing any scent, this bar is perfumed (as stated in the ingredients) and while I can't peg the scent, it seems to be a very mild floral note. The soap lathers as well as more expensive soaps with long lasting stable lather. The bar's longevity has been very good.

4) Pre de' Provence Rose Petal Soap
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$7.25/8.8 ounce bar/$0.82 per ounce

Kind of torn on this one because I wanted to like it so much. Performance wise, this is excellent: dense, creamy lather that's probably only second to Nesti Dante. There's just enough rose petals in the bar to add a nice exfoliating element without being annoying. Also, this bar is the best value outside of the Whole Foods offerings. With regards to scent, this comes up short. It just smells faint and synthetic compared to my T+H rose cream, Trumpers Rose SS or the following soap.

5) L'Occitane Rose Bonne Maere Soap
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$6.00/4.3 ounce bar/$1.40 per ounce

I really like the scent of this soap. It smells like a rose garden, and the scent is rich and deep. Unfortunately, the small, square cube of soap is the second worst value in the group. Performance wise, the bar fell into the middle of the pack. Longevity has been good. Were this scent attached to the PdP bar, I don't think I'd ever use anything else.

6) Claus Porto Tango (Tobacco Blossom)
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$11.50/5.28 ounce bar/$2.18 per ounce

The legendary seven times milled bar was also by far the most expensive soap in the bunch. The tobacco blossom scent is a very mild, light note that, to my nose, was floral with tinge of sweet orange. The bar lathered up great. The scent did not linger. Longevity has been good, but I don't notice any real difference between it and standard triple milled bars. This is a very high quality soap, but there's really nothing about it (scent, performance or longevity) to justify its very high price.

So that's it. I know these aren't too detailed reviews but at some point one finds oneself splitting hairs. These are all good products. Some, however, don't seem to take it to the next level to justify their price (Claus Porto) while others don't excel in all catagories (L'Occitane Bonne Mere & PdP Rose--although I'll be trying other scents from the latter).

Overall, the Nesti Dante really seems to bring it all together: lush, dense, creamy lather, a great lingering scent and a hard long lasting bar. The two Whole Foods offerings give incredible value with no drop off in quality.

Next up (it'll be a couple of months) will be my USA v. UK faceoff: The Caswell-Massey Presidential Sampler bars (#6, Almond Cold Cream and Jockey Club) vs. Lightfoot's venerable tallow based Pine Athletic Soap.
 
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Thanks for the reviews.

I've just started using decent shower soap over the past two months or so. It's really a great luxury to use a wonderful soap in the shower. I have missed out on this luxury for years!

If you get a chance, try a T&H bath soap in whatever your favorite scent is and let me know what you think. They go for about 10 bucks a pop. You can get a 3-pack for 28 buh, and you can get 20% off by putting the code BB10 in at check-out. For my money, these soaps are truly outstanding.
 
If you get a chance, try a T&H bath soap in whatever your favorite scent is and let me know what you think. They go for about 10 bucks a pop. You can get a 3-pack for 28 buh, and you can get 20% off by putting the code BB10 in at check-out. For my money, these soaps are truly outstanding.

You read my mind. I have an appointment on Friday for a haircut and had planned on picking up a bar each of Grafton and Trafalgar.
 
It's funny, since starting wetshaving I also moved away from cheap shower gel to quality soaps. I enjoy it much more than the old routine.
 
Thanks for the informative reviews, I found them really interesting. I also checked out the Nesti Danti website and was amazed at their product lineup.

I was wondering though, what exactly are the benefits of using one of these triple milled soaps? All I found in regards to the benfits was this:

"The triple milling process allows for soap that is completely uniform and smooth, without impurities, and is longer lasting than other types of soap."

So other then the fact they are higher quality, last longer, and personal enjoyment (ie. particular scents) why would one pay more to use one of these soaps? I was more interested in finding out whether or not it benefits the skin...

Also, is it possible to find these types of soaps in my local drugstore/pharmany, Walmart, or another convenient location, or can I only order them online? (We don't have a Whole Foods in our city...yet)
 
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Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
From all the soaps I have used in the past year, the Nesti Danti Cypress takes the cake!!
 
So other then the fact they are higher quality, last longer, and personal enjoyment (ie. particular scents) why would one pay more to use one of these soaps?

I can't tell if this is a joke or if you're serious.

It's kind of like saying "Other than the fact that they look better, corner better, brake better, and are more fun to drive, why would one pay more to get a BMW?"

I'm not sure I need another reason other than higher quality, lasting longer, and enjoying my showers more. Honestly, that seems like a pretty good trifecta.

Having said that, I'll also tell you that run-of-the-mill commercial soaps like the ones you find at the grocery store dry the skin out tremendously. Glycerin is a natural product of saponification, but the big companies extract the glycerin so they can sell it separately (because they make more money that way). "Real soap" has the glycerin in it, so they don't dry your skin out; some of them almost seem to actually hydrate the skin as they clean.

Finally, if you took a shower just once using a really high quality soap, you would never ask that question again. It's just one of the little things that brings a lot of enjoyment into life. My T&H West Indian Limes soap brings a smile to my face every time I use it.
 
Has anyone tried the Santa Maria Novella soaps? They are expensive ($16 per bar). I have recently started using Caswell and Massey, and I am really impressed, at least with the Jockey Club (real powdery, barber shop-type scent).
 
I can't tell if this is a joke or if you're serious.

It's kind of like saying "Other than the fact that they look better, corner better, brake better, and are more fun to drive, why would one pay more to get a BMW?"

Sorry if it sounded like a joke, I was in fact serious (maybe a dumb question...)

I totally understand what your saying with the BMW analogy, I enjoy BMW's for all that they are, so I too expect I'll find much enjoyment in these types of quality soaps.

Are there any North American retailers that carry the TOBS bath soaps? They don't seem to mention whether or not they are triple milled or not on their website, should I expect they aren't then?

Sorry, I'm a bit lost where I should start shopping for these types of soaps... :confused1
 
Has anyone tried the Santa Maria Novella soaps? They are expensive ($16 per bar). I have recently started using Caswell and Massey, and I am really impressed, at least with the Jockey Club (real powdery, barber shop-type scent).


I've tried the SMN and thought that it was very good but not any better than some of the ones reviewed. Also, for what you pay you don't get very much making it not a very good value. They are nicely scented and it stays with you for long after your shower.

I'd also recommend the Valobra soaps. Their glycerin-lanolin is an amazing scent and it's quality is very good. Also, the Nancy Boy soaps are excellent performers. The scents are outstanding but don't look for them to last all day.

Looking for more great reviews in the future!
 
Are there any particular chain stores that carry the Nesti Dante product line of soaps?

If you purchased online, which website would you recommend for buying these soaps?
 
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Are there any particular chain stores that carry the Nesti Dante product line of soaps?

If you purchased online, which website would you recommend for buying these soaps?

Merz' online operation (www.smallflower.com) carries TOBS and Nesti Dante. The former is definitely triple milled. I plan on picking up a bar of Eton College to include in my next round of soap reviews.
 
Merz' online operation (www.smallflower.com) carries TOBS and Nesti Dante. The former is definitely triple milled. I plan on picking up a bar of Eton College to include in my next round of soap reviews.

Gosh you must be reading my mind! I'm very interested in the Eton College soap as I've tried the shaving cream and absolutely LOVE the scent, I'm hoping the soap will have a similar scent to it...

When can we expect Round #2? :w00t: I'm excited!

Edit: Hoping you review Mitchell's Wool Fat soap as well, heard so much about this stuff...
 
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When can we expect Round #2? :w00t: I'm excited!

...

Be patient, I still have about two months of soap from this round left. FWIW, the above six bars, plus a 5.8 ounce bar of Lightfoot's Pine were started November 1st. Each day, I use a bar in the shower in the morning (loading up a washcloth) and again at night to wash my face, and I'm going through approximately 8-9 ounces (or 1 Nesti Dante bar) per month.

The next round of reviews will be USA vs. UK

Caswell Massey (#6, Almond Cold Cream, Jockey Club) along with Lightfoot's Pine, TOBS Eton College and T+H Grafton. I'll want to get at least half way through them before I review, so we're a long ways off.
 
Great review, Sterling! Thank you for putting this up. I have been interested in finding an alternative to the junk I get at the store.

I've found that using a washcloth with "regular" soap bars leaves my skin feeling tacky. It's not dry, it just doesn't feel clean like it does when I use the shower gel and a luffa. With that in mind, can one use a luffa with soap bars and is it effective? Does the washcloth do the job and keep your skin feeling fresh with nicer soaps?
 
I just read this book by Lisl and Landt Dennis called Soap for the Body and Soul. Thought it was about soap making (some soap supply place recommended it) but it was about soap BUYING! Anyways, they mention lots of brands I never heard of that sound just awesome to try. I don't know how current the info is anymore as the book was published in 2002.

Lots of poncy Euro brands like Rance, Kimono, and Savonnerie Marius Fabre and tons more plus there is a list of online sites to buy from. I am on CT so didn't really look at it yet.
 
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