Honing New Razor

**eto** · 01-02-2010, 07:39 AM

Hello Folks,

So Im 3 shaves in with my new straight. Going well , some redness but coming along.

Question is I know most razors are not shave ready. So I feel the one I have , Thiers Issard Carbon Blade can use a little honeing. Waiting on a strop purchase to make with Mr. Miller, but in the meantime what grit stone should I start the razor on. My sharpening line up is,

220
1000
6000
8000
These are all Japanese made Stones.

I know 220 is not needed. So Can I start on the 1k. And then finish on the finer stones.
And how many passes should I make on each stone?

Thanks

**richmondesi** · 01-02-2010, 07:56 AM

I'm assuming that if you are shaving with it, you can just go back to the 8K and do some really light, even strokes (10-15) with water to bring the edge back. That is, of course, if you know if the edge was put on with 1 layer of tape, no tape, or whatever variation of amounts of tape might be used.

If you are talking about another razor, you want to start at 1K. Personally, I would go back to 1K on one that has been shaving as well if I didn't hone it myself because of the unknowns (unless I knew for sure how it was honed).

For bevel setting I would go with the 1K stone. To accomplish this, I'd go with circles or half-strokes (make sure to do the same amount on each side) followed by 10-30 X strokes after the edge is cutting arm hair easily. If it shaves your arm hair now, I recommend using only the weight of the razor and run the edge over the bottom of a glass bottle or similar one time. The reason for this is that you don't know what the bevel is doing really right now, and once you bring it back to shaving arm hairs again after running it over the glass, you'll know that the bevel is properly set.

Then you can finish on your other stones.

Which Japanese stones are you talking about specifically ?

Check out the wiki on honing for more information on how to hone and some sharpness test guidance.

Enjoy, and keep us posted.

**eto** · 01-02-2010, 08:21 AM

Thanks For the tips.
I have a 8k Kitayama
1k 6k by another Japanese Maker

**Thebigspendur** · 01-02-2010, 10:00 AM

Personally, with a new razor especially a TI I would never go below an 8K. A new razor should only need a touchup. Most TI's come pretty close to shave ready. If you need to redo a bevel or do major honing I'd send it back.

**richmondesi** · 01-02-2010, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by Thebigspendur

Personally, with a new razor especially a TI I would never go below an 8K. A new razor should only need a touchup. Most TI's come pretty close to shave ready. If you need to redo a bevel or do major honing I'd send it back.

I cannot agree with this for the simple fact that he likely bought it shave ready and it has an edge that is in need of touch up. He may or may not know how the bevel was set and working on a razor that was honed using tape on an 8K stone likely wouldn't yield the desired results leaving a potentially very frustrated honer.

**eto** · 01-02-2010, 11:30 AM

So what you mean is that type was on it, that it may have been honed at a higher angle?

I will see what the 8k does , if if feel it can go through a whole progression of stones then I will go for it.
But again great advise guys.
Thanks

**richmondesi** · 01-02-2010, 11:38 AM

Originally Posted by etoknife

So what you mean is that type was on it, that it may have been honed at a higher angle?

I will see what the 8k does , if if feel it can go through a whole progression of stones then I will go for it.
But again great advise guys.
Thanks

Yes, if it was honed using tape the angle will be higher. If you hone the razor without tape that was honed with tape, it will not be very effective. However, if you add a layer of tape, you could reduce that risk. If if it was honed without tape, you would just create a secondary bevel by adding tape to it...

For me, I'd reset the bevel and hone from scratch. However, that's because I'm a little OCD, and it affords me the ability to know exactly what was done. For you, you might want to just use 8K with one layer of tape to reduce the risks and see what you can get out of it.

Also, an edge off of an 8K takes a really light touch and even stroke to shave comfortably.

Good luck

**professorchaos** · 01-02-2010, 11:44 AM

If it just needs a touch up, why not diamond pastes? Cheaper and easier than hones.

**richmondesi** · 01-02-2010, 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by professorchaos

If it just needs a touch up, why not diamond pastes? Cheaper and easier than hones.

+1 if that's an option

**azmark** · 01-02-2010, 12:05 PM

Im coming from left field here but I tried .25 spray and did not like the feel of it. Really felt sharp but real rough. Is that normal? I just finished the rest off with a UF and it was like "butter."

Originally Posted by professorchaos

If it just needs a touch up, why not diamond pastes? Cheaper and easier than hones.

**richmondesi** · 01-02-2010, 12:08 PM

Originally Posted by azmark

Im coming from left field here but I tried .25 spray and did not like the feel of it. Really felt sharp but real rough. Is that normal? I just finished the rest off with a UF and it was like "butter."

Rough edges have been discussed off of the .25 spray. I've been told that using felt helped a lot to reduce that roughness, but I've never tried it.

**eto** · 01-02-2010, 12:13 PM

Originally Posted by richmondesi

+1 if that's an option

Thanks Again, I wouldn't mind starting from a 1k , Im a little OCD myself. I have the stones and yes paste would be a good option but I will use what I have.
I have practiced honing with an older razor that I have , so I feel comfortable trying with my new one that may not of came shave ready.

Thanks

**professorchaos** · 01-02-2010, 12:17 PM

Originally Posted by azmark

Im coming from left field here but I tried .25 spray and did not like the feel of it. Really felt sharp but real rough. Is that normal? I just finished the rest off with a UF and it was like "butter."

The .25 can make for a rough edge if it isn't handled properly. You could to try 5-10 very light laps on a paddle pasted with the .25 after the UF. Or not - I just think part of the fun is the experimenting. One of my favorite edges is to get a nice, bright polish on the edge with the Naniwa 10K and follow up with a few laps on the the .5 then .25. Smooth as silk and sharp as hell. But I am one of those freaks who prefers .25 to CrOx.

It has been discussed at length in other threads, but it bears repeating that different medias affect how an abrasive works. I've not used .25 on balsa, but until I hear otherwise it doesn't sound like a good idea.

**azmark** · 01-02-2010, 12:26 PM

I don't have a Naniwa 10K but would you recommend replacing it with the UF? It's super slow cutter but I've grown use to a synthetic stone edge.

Originally Posted by professorchaos

The .25 can make for a rough edge if it isn't handled properly. You could to try 5-10 very light laps on a paddle pasted with the .25 after the UF. Or not - I just think part of the fun is the experimenting. One of my favorite edges is to get a nice, bright polish on the edge with the Naniwa 10K and follow up with a few laps on the the .5 then .25. Smooth as silk and sharp as hell. But I am one of those freaks who prefers .25 to CrOx.

It has been discussed at length in other threads, but it bears repeating that different medias affect how an abrasive works. I've not used .25 on balsa, but until I hear otherwise it doesn't sound like a good idea.

**netsurfr** · 01-03-2010, 11:46 AM

Would not go lower than 8K unless you need to establish a new bevel and that should not be necessary with a new blade.

**richmondesi** · 01-03-2010, 12:58 PM

To the OP. I spoke with Lynn and he told me that he always starts customers razors at 1k, but on brand new razors he starts on 5K (Naniwa). Maybe this will help you.