dress shoe coordination

[gaseousclay]

ok, I know black dress shoes are pretty versatile and can be worn with black, navy and charcoal suits, but what about brown or cordovan dress shoes? I was always under the impression that brown and/or cordovan were to be worn with navy suits until I saw Jay Leno sporting a navy suit with black dress shoes. what's the consensus on this?

[Hreafn]

I perfer brown shoes, they go with gray fine and have seen them worn with dark suits and they look fine, i would feel that black would go with everything.

[Mr.G]

I normally wear black shoes with Black, Navy, and Gray suits. Brown shoes with Navy, Brown, and Beige suits. To each their own!

[David in Boston]

I would wear brown shoes however there are so many shades of brown that it is a hassle finding belts to match the color.

Therefore, black only.

[dignifried]

IMHO brown shoes are more informal than black and fit more closely with the look of a sports jacket or tweed. The traditional rule of 'never wear brown in town' could probably be considered a bit dated now however if being conservative it would do you no harm to take heed of this motto.

[StylinLA]

Cordovan colored shoes are very traditional and stylish with navy blue suits. But black shoe are also appropriate.

Regarding Leno, for what its worth, here in Los Angeles, it's very rare to see men in cordovan shoes. They're even tough to find in men's shoe stores or the men's shoe department at Nordstroms. I've been here 25+ years and never seen anyone in a 3 piece suit either. I think it's a California thing.

Some maintain to never wear black shoes with navy. I'll be interested in seeing how some others weigh in here.

I'm still feeling my way a bit with brown shoes. I believe a lot of people wear them with navy blue suits. Not sure I like that.
Dignified's comment 'never wear brown in town' likely has it roots in the general feeling from the past that brown shoes are more "casual" even if they're dress shoes.
As he said, if "conversative" is the look you're going for, they may not fit the bill.

[leighton]

Agreed with LA. Brown shoes are just more casual looking than black or burgundy/cordovan shoes.

Cordovan can be worn with navy, I know that. Not sure what else though. You'll probably just have to use your style radar with those. They probably go good with olive, mauve taupe, & brown suits. Just like brown shoes. Actually thats probably it. Everything that Burgundy/cordovan goes good with, brown can go good with too these days.

[StylinLA]

By the way gaseous, as you ramp up your knowledge of men's style....

The word "cordovan" has two meanings in the context of men's shoes. It's most commonly known as the brownish-red shoe color. Kiwi sells "cordovan" polish.

But there is also "cordovan leather," which is a very smooth, durable quality leather made from a horse's rump. You can get cordovan leather shoes in black as well as the color called cordovan.

Good cordovan leather shoes are generally quite pricey and usually seen as a purchase that will last many, many years.

[Kouros]

Don't mix black with navy blue anymore; it's the same as mixing black with brown: a no-no. It reminds me of a person who owns only one pair of shoes. Oh, go ahead and do it for a job interview if you must, but I think a black and navy combo looks too "uniformish" nowadays...like you're a cop, janitor, marine, or politician. Think fashion-forward. Oh, and if you mix black and brown you should be working for UPS.

[sause]

Brown shoes with blue suits. Also brown shoes with gray suits, the darker the gray the darker the brown to go with it.

[KarthVader]

I go with the black shoes-navy suit during formal occasions, i.e. weddings, job interviews, etc. But the brown shoe-navy suit is quite nice when you can be less formal.