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A belated kick-off of the haberdashery...
There are a few indisputable belongings gentlemen around the globe covet. Amongst the exclusive laundry list of fine items reside automobiles, timepieces and leather goods but at the root of all these lavish items lies the derivation of our interest – the craftsman. While the look, feel and design of a piece may catch the eye, it’s the tremendous skill, attention to detail and relentless pursuit of perfection a craftsman has bestowed upon an item, which really commandeer our interest. Simply put - gentlemen are naturally drawn to items, which exude impeccable quality as it stands as a tribute to the remarkable skill and dedication of our fellow man.
For most men, a briefcase is not merely a luxury, but a necessity. With such a heavily used item, holding our most important business items, the question must be begged – is it worth buying the best? Sure, for many a $300-400 briefcase may sound uncanny, and a $1,000+ case purely absurd, but if a $400 briefcase lasts 10X longer than a $100 briefcase, surely it’s both a sound fiscal and emotional decision, yes? Like many gentlemen – I believe in the old adage “Buy quality - cry once” – however I also develop bonds to well made, quality items and appreciate their distressed and unique look as they age, like the butterscotch color of a well used meerschaum pipe. As the laptop has become a fixture in the world of business – the lowly laptop case has become an acceptable replacement for a gentleman’s briefcase – but like many here at badger and blade, I like to be a little different and I like to have things with more style, history and character.
With this in mind – I took it upon myself to set out and find the ultimate luxury leather briefcases for men in varying price ranges/styles and report back in three stages. 1 – the initial report 2 – thoughts/opinions after 6 months of use and 3 – how they’re holding up after a year or so of typical use.
Without further ado, let me introduce the four subjects of this piece – introduced from least expensive, on up.
#1 – Solo Classic MSRP $149.99
This is without question the “mainstream” bag of the group. Not just due to its incredible value, but also for its tremendous functionality. Akin to a Swiss Army Knife, this is more of a tool than a luxury briefcase and I mean that as a compliment. The amount of pockets in/on this case, especially with its slim and trim profile is astounding. Each pocket serves a specific and well thought out purpose – from housing cell phones, to documents, to sensitive electronic equipment in need of padding (laptop, GPS, etc) to pen slots, this bag has you covered.
Loaded up with a 15.4" Lenovo W500...
Particularly intriguing are the hidden clasps/closures, which give the appearance of more traditional and stylish closure methods, yet allowing quick one-handed deployment. While the bag maintains a Kate Moss like profile, its accordion fan design allows for gluttonous expansion - giving you tremendous flexibility.
Front straps hiding quick-release latches...
Quick release latches...
Back of the bag - with leather tabs to disengage the slick magnetic clasps...
Pockets on the back residing under magnetic clasps...
As the only bag in the group hailing from China (adorned in Columbian leather), it offers a tremendous value for the gentleman seeking a stylish leather briefcase at a meager price – however due to its price, it doesn’t boast some of the features its more expensive competitors tout, such as fully tanned, full grain leather, leather shoulder straps, durable leather lining, etc.
Close up of leather grain...
It will be interesting to see how this bag holds up over the next year. Cost aside, this is a surprisingly nice, light, good-looking bag.
#2 – Saddleback Leather – MSRP $555
The fact that this bag has not made an appearance in every Indiana Jones movie serves as a red alert that their props department needs to be immediately fired and replaced. Not that you need to be an adventurer to own this bag – but the entire auspices of its design is “to the extreme.” Not only can you smell its rich, thick leather before the UPS courier makes it out of their truck, but one heft of this bag sporting nearly 8lbs of hide and it immediately strikes you – this isn’t your standard bag. Sure, it’ll fit your laptop, important documents, your lunch, a few pens/pencils and a small dog or two – but if needed, in about 30 seconds using a sturdy O ring residing on the back, and it’s unique shoulder strap (with 2 pads) it can be converted into a backpack. Eat too much at lunch? No worries, you can use one of the extra front straps as a belt, pending you have a 34-36 inch waist.
The sturdy o-ring in the top/center is what allows the backpack conversion....
A handle for the incredible hulk....
Sure, it’s at home merely trekking to your office and back and it will be the envy of your peers at the next board meeting, but frankly – that’s not what this briefcase is about. It’s big, it’s bold and it’s meant to take one hell of a beating – and with its 100 year warranty the fine folks at Saddleback tout its ability to outlive its owner.
A tremendous amount of space.....
This beauty is HUGE, and due to the very heavy/stiff leather, it pretty much stays that wide (meaning it doesn't collapse into a thinner profile when not full). Maybe after 20 years of hard use, the leather will begin to soften up....
Loaded up with a 15.4" Lenovo W500, my lunch and quite a laundry list of small items - still allowing enough additional room to fit a small dog....
Sport this bag and expect a lot of attention… folks will ask you pretty regularly “Who makes that?” – “Where can I get one of those?” and so on. With the Saddleback case, you’re paying for a HECK of a lot of leather, with handsome leather (or pigskin) lining that’ll last a long, long time. You’re also paying for a completely handmade product (Mexico) comprised of thick American hides (again, there is REALLY a lot of leather here).
Sturdy pigskin lining...
Bulletproof stitched AND riveted construction...
The quality is excellent, but upon close inspection you can tell this is handmade product as stitches aren’t perfectly aligned and there are small little tidbits of character here and there. Don’t take this the wrong way though – the average joe wouldn’t be able to tell at all – and the folks making these briefcases are “poached” master leatherworkers previously from Dooney & Burke and other ultra-premo brands. $555 doesn’t sound cheap – but for what it is, it’s a bargain. Many of Saddlebacks competitors are more than twice the cost and still don’t a product as high a quality bag.
Imperfect alignment of stitching shows a handmade touch...
Damn good stitching job - not THE prettiest/cleanest, but 9.5 out of 10, especially due to the leather being so thick/sturdy and the thick industrial thread....
To put the cost/quality ratio of a Saddleback in perspective, several other firms were invited to participate in this comparison – very prestigious, well known British companies as well as several well known, ultra-high end firms in the U.S. – and they agreed to participate. Once they found out saddleback was one of the briefcases their craftsmanship would be compared to, they either magically disappeared, or in one instance, outright refused to have their products QUALITY (not design, look, etc) compared to saddleback.
Close-up of the leather...
If you’re thinking “Why wasn’t XYZ brand part of this?”– there’s a 90% chance it’s because they didn’t want to go up against Saddleback and that my good friends, speaks for itself.
#3 – HLASKA Evergreen – MSRP - $795
The interesting thing about this briefcase is just how different it is. It doesn’t take more than a few moments inspecting this bag to come to the hypothesis it wasn’t made by a fashion designer… or the type of person that would normally make a luxury case. Well, you’d be right because an engineer designed it. Instead of a design based on fashion – it’s clearly based on structure with a lot of thought put into subtle details.
Just barely swallowing a 15.4" Lenovo W500 - with it being a little tricky to get the zippered teeth around the square corners of the laptop - but the black on black is mighty slick looking...
The zippered closure looks great against the black case...
It sticks out from the crowd, with the incredibly unique wood grain leather, to the custom hardware based on architectural designs – it quietly screams, “I’m different” in an apple (the computer/tech company not the fruit) like manner. I can’t explain enough, just how nice their custom hardware is – even though I had intended to not compare the bags in the first part of this series, without question their hardware shames the rest. The hardware gorgeous, unique, easy to use/operate and it’s built to last.
Custom rivets all aligned/riveted in the same direction....
Razor sharp looking clasps for the shoulder strap...
Aluminum feet to protect the Italian leather on the bottom of the case from rough surfaces...
It’s bold trendsetting fashion won’t mesh well for everyone, but for those with a lot of style and enjoy exclusivity – you can’t find a better match, especially being that they’re handmade in Canada and individually serial numbered with merely 50 examples of each of the three colors.
Serial #48 of 50....
This case is more at home wrapped around the slinky profile of a 15.4" macbook pro, the combo is simply stunning...
With minimal pockets and a lightweight design with only one major compartment boasting a100% cotton Kvadrat European fabric lining, this is more of a document case than a briefcase, but despite its lack of compartments, it’s actually quite usable, thanks to the designers functionality/engineering focus.
Close-up of the interiors liner...
Not the best stitching on the interior....
Small little niggles - like the leather not being dyed through and through - with some areas visibly sticking out with the sharp contrasting orange of un-dyed leather against jet black...
While we’re back on the topic of engineering – the designers of this bag actually created the wood grain patterns embossed on the bags from actual pieces of wood – further adding to it’s uniqueness.
Woodgrain pattern...
Close-up of the leather...
There are a lot of briefcases out there… but only one HLASKA Evergreen.
#4 – Mitchell Leather Classic Briefcase – MSRP - $980 to $1180
When your hand glides around this bags handle as you scoop it up mid-stride you can’t help but be taken with how natural this bag feels in hand. Everything about this bag is as it should be, like a lifelong friend had designed it for your specific needs. How it sits on your shoulder, its perfect balance in hand; the number of pockets – not too many which would force them to be too small, yet not too few as to be a one trick pony, its “just right” size, everything about this bag is just seamless and perfect. Jerry Mitchell’s (the late founder of Mitchell Leather) lifetime obsession with creating the ultimate briefcase has been an indisputable success.
Spacious three compartment interior - with an "accordion" design to expand as needed...
Handy, perfectly sized front pockets residing under the front cover/flap...
Things you don’t typically consider in a briefcase stand out like a Mary-Kay Pink Cadillac at a biker rally. The weight distribution and balance of a briefcase with different weights/loads? Who would consider designing a bag around this? What’s the value? Well I thought it was a little silly until I badly dislocated my knee and found with other briefcases loaded up, I couldn’t get halfway across the house without them slipping off my shoulder or twisting out of my hand and pummeling one of my dogs who constantly shadow me. With the Mitchell? Even with a bum immobilized leg, the fully loaded Mitchell is almost unnoticeable when strewn across my shoulder… it feels like an extension of my body. It’s difficult to explain just how well designed every detail of this bag is – but a few pictures and a review on how these bags are created does the best job at painting the picture.
Center compartment has a spacer secured via velcro which you can move/arrange to fit multiple sizes of laptops and hold your valuable electronics tightly to prevent it's movement and aid in proper balance...
Easily holds a 15.4" Lenovo W500 while keeping the bag slim/trim, but still allowing plenty of accordion expansion if additional items need to be carried...
Every stitch on this bag is perfect. I don’t know how to quite describe it, or show it visually in pictures – but the stitching is something inexplicable, it takes a VERY keen eye to spot they double stitch high stress areas. Stitching and sewing leather is an incredibly difficult task – let alone perfectly hitting the same holes twice, which takes decades to master. The interesting thing with a Mitchell though is not just that you’re getting a skilled hand making your bag – it’s the fact that there are only two gentlemen who make Mitchell bags so you know the name of the craftsman making your bag and talk to him about how you'd like each element. Dave Mitchell, the son of Jerry Mitchell and an Argentinian gentleman by the name of Bernardo, who has been working for Mitchell for around 40 years.
The most difficult part of the bag to sew - done with absolute perfection - despite the tricky shape/thickness changes...
Beautiful stitching/spacing and perfectly rounded around the edges - all done by hand/eye...
Stitching masterpiece...
Where the proprietary secret lies in the bags impeccable stitching is in Bernardo, who is in his 80’s and has been working with leather/stitching his entire life. Bernardo handles the most difficult stitches on the Mitchell bags and with seven decades of experience, you can be assured you’ve probably got the most skilled and experienced leather craftsman in the world making your bag. Whenever the bag catches my attention, I can’t help but admire and contemplate the history and tradition Bernardo has stitched into the bag.
Bernardo sewing...
Bernardo clamping...
The leather? It feels as though it’s been marinated in clarified butter and silk extract for six months prior to shipment. While the other high-end bags in this test are drenched in good to excellent quality leather, the Mitchell is hoisted onto a new level. It’s both incredibly thick/rugged, while being sinfully soft and luxurious to the touch. They stockpile some of the finest hand selected leather in the world – sparing no cost. Finding higher quality leather is highly unlikely as due to their small production levels, they’re able to use a quality of leather not possible for larger firms to reliably source.
A portion of their factory with some of their hand selected leather....
Since these bags have been handmade and constantly improved over the last 40 years, they have an array of interesting patented features, which improve the look, feel and longevity of the bag. In fact, from time to time Dave Mitchell has customers come into his shop with 30-40 year old bags, that have seen daily use – and they’re still in great shape. The internal zippered pocket is incredibly handy/useful, the key holder is the easiest to use and most effective, the patented modular handle feels the most secure and sports the sleekest profile, the velcro side pocket is the most useful, the latches have a brass sleeve over the clasp which rotates, to make it slide up and down the leather when latching and unlatching the case making it the quickest/easiest buckle to manipulate and the interesting brass feet adorned in leather strips protect the bottom of the bag.
Internal zippered pocket...
Back of the case with the essentially "hidden" velcro pocket...
Incredible handle - and the velcro pocket open (Note: this is a VERY high quality velcro, doesn't make much noise when opened, yet has a very secure closure)....
Key ring holder....
Rotating brass sleeve to allow the strap to glide in and out...
The feet are particularly noteworthy as with a handmade/stitched bag, the most vulnerable part of the bag is the bottom. Your heavy items in the bag put the most strain on the bottom stitching, and as your bag is put down day after day on hard and occasionally rough surfaces they found after 20 years or so of hard use, some bags would begin to have problems with the bottom stitching. Granted, the damage can be easily repaired – but it was deemed as a problem nonetheless, which was solved with the assistance of these incredibly smart looking feet…
Feet and the bottom of the bag showing its accordion design...
Foot close up - showing the hand cut, matching piece of leather hand glued into each of the eight feet - everything on this bag is about finite attention to detail...
Mitchell bags are primarily custom made to order, in fact if you go to the factory in Milwaukee you can hand pick the leather for your bag and if you’re so inclined you can take part in a few of the processes involved in making it, such as cutting the leather and such. While they do occasionally have a few in stock (ignore the stock on their website, it’s out of date and they’ve sold all of the bags offered for sale on it) they rarely have more than 1 or 2 available to purchase. Colors (even incredibly sharp looking two-tone bags), leather types, you name it.
Gorgeous two-tone pebble leather...
Incredibly unique distressed brick briefcase, with black piping - truly the imagination is the only limit for their work and guaranteed the owner of that bag will never run into someone sporting a bag even reasonably similar...
No two Mitchell’s are exactly alike which adds to the exclusivity of these bags – and exclusive they are. Sporting a price in the four figures range and with an output of about four briefcases a month, you never have to worry about someone else sporting the same bag at a boardroom meeting. What you will have to worry about however is the amount of time you’ll spend talking about the bag when interested strangers stop you – and rest assured, they’ll stop you. A few weeks ago, a gentleman sporting a snazzy Hartmann stopped me, asked me about the bag and when he found out it wouldn’t be an easy thing for him to purchase directly, he tried to buy the bag off my shoulder right then and there!
Close-up of the buttery smooth leather and it's natural grain...
Expensive? YES. Exclusive? YES. Drop dead gorgeous? YES. A purchase that will last a lifetime? YES. Worth it? YES, YES, YES! In fact, I’ll eventually be buying at least one additional case in two-tone black/brown pebble grain leather.
Size comparison of the different bags, in relation to my full-size Dachshund - some of these bags are mighty large...
Full disclosure - some of the bags in this comparison were provided by their manufacturer. My opinion remains objective and unbiased and I am not being paid by any of these companies.


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In all seriousness, I have minimal use for a briefcase at the current time, but I'll be damned if these aren't gorgeous. Nice! 


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