Help needed for fatboy problem

I’m looking for suggestions on this issue with my D-3 red dot Fatboy. I’ve had this razor for a while and have noticed that it seems to periodically get harder to open and close. I’ve been able to remedy this with applications of mineral oil to the top and bottom of the handle shaft, which results in smooth opening and closing. Now, however, the problem seems to have become more serious.

The razor has become very difficult to lock down for the final tightening of the silo doors. By very difficult I mean that I have to hold the razor head in a towel and really twist hard to open and close it into the lock-down position. The resistance to opening and closing at this point seems to have dramatically increased. There is no resistance to its opening and closing before the lock-down twist. I did the usual application of mineral oil yesterday but it did nothing to make the lock-down twist easier.

I really like this razor and don’t want to jeopardize its many future years of shaving life. Your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

jim

Jim,
Your razor handle is gunked up. Mineral oil doesn't help eliminate the gunk, it just coats it for awhile. You should try soaking the razor in hot water and dish soap overnight to see if it loosens up. If the problem is mechanical then it won't help. And don't force the mechanism any more. If you break something you'll have big problems trying to fix it. The inner workings may be different then the standard Fatboy so spare parts won't be easy to find.

Len

I have had sucess with regular adjustables on several occasions in boiling the razor for 5 minutes of so in water with a little vinegar, followed by scrubbing bubbles then immersion in mineral oil overnight. If the Red Dot is like the standard Fat Boy it can also be disassembled for cleaning see http://vintagesaws.com/fatboy/fatboy.html

Thanks Len and Gary for your suggestions.

Will boiling it in a weak vinegar solution discolor the red dot? I'm willing to accept some cosmetic deterioration for functional improvement, but want to keep it to a minimum.

I've read through fatboy breakdown, but really don't have the mechanical set up to do all that.

Thanks.

Well, since it is a Red Dot I have no actual experience with one of those, it didn't discolor my regular fatboys red spring. It didn't take any black paint out of the numbers either. Might be better to try the dish soap boiling hot water first though. Also, the first part of the takedown can be accomplished with a just a bent stout paper clip to form the prongs of the tool, but again my experience with that particular razor is zilch. But if it is jammed shut anyway, might as well try .. good luck.

Hopefully a Red Dot experienced mechanic will happen by soon

garyg said:

If the Red Dot is like the standard Fat Boy it can also be disassembled for cleaning see http://vintagesaws.com/fatboy/fatboy.html

Click to expand...

Hi there,

Although I've never handled a Red Dot fatboy, I believe the insides are different than the other common fatboy. From what I understand, it's built more along the lines of a Toggle. I can tell the head design is different......the inside has the same looking tray as a Toggle. It's possible the internal TTO thingy will be different as well.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what it seems like to me.

Martin

I've become a fan of the "less is more" school on repair/restoration. This meaning, use the absolute minimum treatment that will get the job done, meaning less chance to damage/degrade a valuable antique (which regardless of monetary value, is how I see these classics).

My meaning here, is why not try the overnight soak before going to the extreme of boiling? Chances are it may do the trick. If not, then maybe the short boiling? Which is more harsh to the razor, more likely to affect it's condition (paint, etc. etc.).

On a side note, thanks for mentioning it is a D3. I'd been wondering which Fat Boys were the red dots, as I thought it may only be the D1's. I have a D4 which is the standard Fat Boy platform, so I guess it was the first in that series. The quest for a Red Dot continues, but now expanded to D2 and D3!

Try at your own risk:

I did this to a Fatboy that had a serious "clunk" when twisting it open. I took some CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover) and sprayed it in the bottom. It flowed into the bottom of the barrel through the screw threads... waited a few minutes, rinsed it, opened and closed it a few times... like new.

L. Martino said:

Hi there,

Although I've never handled a Red Dot fatboy, I believe the insides are different than the other common fatboy. From what I understand, it's built more along the lines of a Toggle. I can tell the head design is different......the inside has the same looking tray as a Toggle. It's possible the internal TTO thingy will be different as well.

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what it seems like to me.

Martin

Click to expand...

I think that you are right - the red dot fatboy, toggle and bottom dial 195 all have the same blade bed design and a stronger spring in the handle. They are different from the standard fatboy and the adjustment seems to change blade angle more that the normal version.

theinternot said:

Try at your own risk:

I did this to a Fatboy that had a serious "clunk" when twisting it open. I took some CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover) and sprayed it in the bottom. It flowed into the bottom of the barrel through the screw threads... waited a few minutes, rinsed it, opened and closed it a few times... like new.

Click to expand...

Is CLR a generic or brand name for a product? I will give this a try.

Thanks.

I have had this same problem with a regular fatboy. REALLY difficult to get that last quarter turn. I just did the initial disassemble, and cleaned the spring and brushed out the barrel. You may consider trying an ultrasonic cleaner. I've seen razors cleaned by them, and even the inside gets clean. There is a penetrating lube called PB blaster that works well, but I just apply and then wipe off.

Hiya,

Not to derail this thread, but I'd guess the Red Dot will shave somewhat diferently than other fatboys. Seems like the safety bars aren't the same, which may make a difference. The big thing though would be the extra weight in the head because of that tray.

I'd guess this razor would shave more like a Toggle........a bit closer and somewhat more aggressive of a feel than other fatboys. That's how the Toggles I've used have felt, although the Toggle itself weighs more in general.

That Red Dot is a nice find.......hope you sort out the issues.

Martin

If there is an actual spring in the mechanism, wouldn't boiling water take the "spring" out of the spring?? Just a thought, I would try everything else before boiling it.

cc

redbike said:

Is CLR a generic or brand name for a product? I will give this a try.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

It is the brand name.

OK...Took my red dot apart.I have a D1,when I turn the adjuster there is no click,I thought it was gunked up so I used the tutorial to take it down.It's not the same as the fatboy in the instructions.There is no spring when you unscrew the bottom piece.It took me over an hour to figure out how to put it back together.I'll do it again and take pictures next time,It's very different inside.Anyway it was like it had never been used.Inside as clean and bright as brand new.It still doesn't click when I turn the adjuster,maybe it's not supposed to.

T Rick said:

On a side note, thanks for mentioning it is a D3. I'd been wondering which Fat Boys were the red dots, as I thought it may only be the D1's. I have a D4 which is the standard Fat Boy platform, so I guess it was the first in that series. The quest for a Red Dot continues, but now expanded to D2 and D3!

Click to expand...

I have a D3 executive fatboy and it is the regular variety with the exposed spring.

I need to correct my OP. My D-3 Fatboy does not have a red dot. Apologies to T Rick who was looking for information on these razors.

Update: I purchased some CLR and plan to apply it as suggested by theinternot. I will post my results.

Thanks again for the support & suggestions.

jim

Thanks for the clarification, it's back to a search for a D1 (still can't believe I let one swim right past me in the 'Bay!) .

That CLR is good stuff, but it's strong. Don't let it sit in there too long. Consider short, multiple treatments (if nec.) instead of a longer one to get the job done.

To Buddydog, looking forward to those pics of the Red Dot apart .

Something else to consider....Soap scum remover will take the paint out of the numbers.........

Yesterday I restored a Gillette Slim that was piffed to me by a user here. The Blade bed was not moving at all, it was frozen stuck and the dial would not move past 7. I used the instructions from the Vintage saw blade guy to remove the silo doors and boiled the razor in Borax and Water.

In a Quart size pot I added 2 table spoons of Borax and filled the pot and boiled if you can sprinkle the boraz on top of the razor in the pot then add water. When the water evaporated to about half I took the razor out with pliers and rinsed it in the sink with cold water and lots of crude came out. I put the razor back in the pot filled it back up to the top and boiled it again, repeat 3 times in total till the blade bed was moving with the help of Gravity. You may have to do it less or more depending on your experience. In Hind site I probably didn't have to remove the Silo doors but I did because I thought it would be best to restore it. I would try boiling in borax before you start taking it apart. I finished up by adding mineral oil on the moving parts. Good Luck.