DE shaving -- Technique Advice Please!

**homerbklyn** · 11-06-2009, 03:01 PM

*Shaving Sorry for the Typo

I have been shaving for a few years (I'm early 20s) and have yet to really settle in on a good technique. For the past ±2 years, I've been using a Merker Safety Razor with Derby blades. Problem is, I still have a lot of issues with razor burn on my neck, as well as the closeness of the shave.

Soaps, Creams, Aftershaves

I've experimented on and off with different shaving creams/after shaves.

For the first few months, I had been using a pretty cheap shaving soap with a brush. It seemed to work well, but -- in terms of time -- was not ideal. Also, at that point I was shaving very infrequently (every 1-2 weeks).

I then started to use a typical over the counter aerosol shaving cream. This was great in terms of time, but not in terms of results. Nixed that.

I've now been using a brush-less cream from Kiehl's ("Green Eagle"). The shave itself is quite good, but I'm still getting some pretty intense razor burn. (I use it in tandem with Kiehl's "Razor Bump Relief").

Technique

One contributor to my razor burn is quite possibly my shaving technique. I know that it's supposed to be a big no-no, but I shave twice: once down, once up. I find that if I only shave down, I'm always left with a little stubble. If I really want a close shave, I have to lather up a second time and shave up. Because I shave only every couple of days, I want to get as much out of every shave as I can.

Solution?

So the question for the experts out there, is what should I do?!

I've thought about going back to a solid soap and brush, but I'm not sure it would make a tremendous difference. Also, the time is certainly an issue.

The other thing I've thought about is switching to Feather blades. From what I've read in other threads, they're much sharper, which would perhaps solve my "two-way-shaving" problem. Maybe their sharpness would also alleviate some of the irritation?

Anyway, I seem to have written quite the essay. I appreciate any help/advice you can give me!

**dpmtherrien** · 11-06-2009, 03:38 PM

Sounds to me to be a question of pressure. You may think you're not using any, but if the burn is there then for sure you are.

I've been there and done that too. Try just using the weight of the razor and no other pressure. I think you'll see a big difference.

Another possible reason could be that whatever blade you're using is just not a good blade for you. Get a sample pack and go through them. Give each blade a few shaves and record the results. You'll find whats good and whats bad for your skin.

Keep in mind that as you progress more and more with DE shaving, your technique will also improve. Good luck, and keep us advised of your improvements.

gone down south · 11-06-2009, 04:02 PM

First rule of thumb - read the stickies on this site. You need to upgrade your prep routine and adopt a multi-pass/multi-direction shave technique. After working on that, it would benefit you to sample a few different blades, as they all perform very differently.

**Drubbing** · 11-06-2009, 04:05 PM

Shaving twice is not a big no no; it's the preferred way of the wet shaver. DE shaving is about 2-3 passes, or more; you won't get clean shaven in 1 anyway. More important than just shaving up and down is mapping the growth of your beard, it will grow in different directions.

Even on the down stroke, which is usually with the growth of beard for most, you will and up shaving some hair X and some ATG. This, and razor pressure, is what causes irritation. Shaving ATG on your first pass is too hard on the skin.

You need to reduce the beard with a couple of passes before shaving against the growth of the beard. Some can't manage to do it at all.

Given you're used to the products you're using, you could work on technique first. But I'd also consider trying other blades, as well as any of the popular creams or soaps. But only change 1 product at a time, or you won't easily know what may have improved things.

**Nicks&Cuts** · 11-06-2009, 04:46 PM

+1 to each of the 3 great posts above!

Welcome to B&B mate!

**jsrdrnr** · 11-06-2009, 04:51 PM

Agree with above. Great advice guys!

**SUMMERSRL** · 11-06-2009, 05:37 PM

I agree with all that has been written by others. I really suggest working on the amount of pressure. I have found that holding the razor by the very end of the shaft has helped me significantly. The further way from the head you hold the razor the harder it is to unintentionally press the blade into your skin.

Good luck to you.

**auk1124** · 11-06-2009, 05:59 PM

I'm too much of a noob to offer a truly informed opinion but I will offer a rank uninformed one: you might try a sledgehammer slant if you are wanting two passes to get you relatively clean shaven with no irritation. Two WTG passes with either a Red IP or Derby or Astra (whichever is smoothest for you) will give you a darn good shave that requires absolutely zero hand pressure to achieve, and should leave your face with very little or no irritation so long as you go slow.

Forget baby butt smooth and forget ATG or XTG passes and go for less irritation. Hie thee to thy favorite apothecary and procure thyself a four-ounce slant and a tube of proraso and a cheap Tweezerman brush with all possible speed.

Caveat Your-Mileage-May-Varius, of course and as always.

**cfriend** · 11-06-2009, 05:59 PM

Originally Posted by gone down south

First rule of thumb - read the stickies on this site. You need to upgrade your prep routine and adopt a multi-pass/multi-direction shave technique. After working on that, it would benefit you to sample a few different blades, as they all perform very differently.

Right. It sounds like while the OP may have the wetshaving gear, he still has the cartridge mentality.

**brianw** · 11-06-2009, 06:15 PM

+1 on all the above comments

**homerbklyn** · 11-07-2009, 06:50 AM

Thanks for all the advice!!

**Hughies_online** · 11-07-2009, 12:35 PM

Originally Posted by Drubbing

Shaving twice is not a big no no; it's the preferred way of the wet shaver. DE shaving is about 2-3 passes, or more; you won't get clean shaven in 1 anyway. More important than just shaving up and down is mapping the growth of your beard, it will grow in different directions.

Even on the down stroke, which is usually with the growth of beard for most, you will and up shaving some hair X and some ATG. This, and razor pressure, is what causes irritation. Shaving ATG on your first pass is too hard on the skin.

You need to reduce the beard with a couple of passes before shaving against the growth of the beard. Some can't manage to do it at all.

Given you're used to the products you're using, you could work on technique first. But I'd also consider trying other blades, as well as any of the popular creams or soaps. But only change 1 product at a time, or you won't easily know what may have improved things.

Roger sums it up nicely!