Harris Tweed

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 08:39 AM

Hi guys. Been away for a while and very glad this sub-forum's been thought of. Thanks B&B. BBC4 have recently had a Scottish Theme running for a few weeks and I was fascinated by there 3hr exploration of the Harris Tweed industry and attempts to get it back off its knees after some pillock decided to ruin it, the unironically-named Mr Haggas. Anyway, putting any aesthetic differences to one side, there is no doubt that this is a Heritage cloth and about as good quality as you can get. I have a couple or three tweed jackets, one of which is Harris (absolute mint condition, never been take out of the wrapper, 2 button, 2 vent houndstooth from Dunn & Co, made in the 60s and a perfect fit.) and the robustness & hand-made feel is apparent from 10 feet away. But I was wondering how many of you out there wear/would like to own a Harris Tweed item? Is it off the radar in the States?

**Unknownsoldier** · 10-02-2009, 09:30 AM

Originally Posted by scottish steve

Hi guys. Been away for a while and very glad this sub-forum's been thought of. Thanks B&B. BBC4 have recently had a Scottish Theme running for a few weeks and I was fascinated by there 3hr exploration of the Harris Tweed industry and attempts to get it back off its knees after some pillock decided to ruin it, the unironically-named Mr Haggas. Anyway, putting any aesthetic differences to one side, there is no doubt that this is a Heritage cloth and about as good quality as you can get. I have a couple or three tweed jackets, one of which is Harris (absolute mint condition, never been take out of the wrapper, 2 button, 2 vent houndstooth from Dunn & Co, made in the 60s and a perfect fit.) and the robustness & hand-made feel is apparent from 10 feet away. But I was wondering how many of you out there wear/would like to own a Harris Tweed item? Is it off the radar in the States?

Only time I'd wear Harris is when it's required by the "shoot", otherwise the smell when wet puts me off, over here it's worn by older "country" men and the middle class "Horsey set" who want to show off. The upper classes still wear it, but only when it's appropriate. It's not a daily cloth.

Tom

**galopede** · 10-02-2009, 11:02 AM

I too have a fairly old Dunn's Harris Tweed jacket. It's the only "smart" jacket I possess!

I also have Donegal tweed flat cap. I like tweed.

Gareth

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 11:38 AM

I'm sorry to hear the old image of tweed is still held, but glad it still gets support! As far as I'm aware it hasn't smelled in years. Have emailed the Harris Tweed Authority and will raise it. As a daily cloth in cold and damp weather tho, its practically unbeatable!

**Unknownsoldier** · 10-02-2009, 11:41 AM

Most of the guys I know who wear it have probably had their jacket 20+ years, so LOL :D You can smell them coming that's certain ;-) LOL

Tom

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 11:49 AM

Ouch! I can assure you I'm odour-free! In the West End of Glasgow its mostly student-types and those "in the know" who wear it and it's no longer compulsory to get HT that you could climb Everest in...every designer totally rates it. I really hope the message gets thru. I mean, its just really good wool, not a political affiliation.

**Dennis** · 10-02-2009, 11:51 AM

If it is any consolation, Harris tweed has a good rep here.

**Rudy Vey** · 10-02-2009, 11:51 AM

I have a couple of sports jackets made from Harris Tweed, they are some 20 years old, but they still look and feel like new. I love this stuff.

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 12:39 PM

Am I right in thinking it can get pretty cold in Michigan? If so, that might explain Tweed's reputation there. Don't know about NJ. You can imagine what its like where I live- every September we're like "that's the rain on till March". The extremely long life of all good Tweeds (don't forget Derby and Irish!) is, to me, a big deal- not forgetting that after 30 years it'll be just as in or out of style as the day you bought it!

**Dennis** · 10-02-2009, 01:15 PM

Originally Posted by scottish steve

Am I right in thinking it can get pretty cold in Michigan? If so, that might explain Tweed's reputation there. Don't know about NJ. You can imagine what its like where I live- every September we're like "that's the rain on till March". The extremely long life of all good Tweeds (don't forget Derby and Irish!) is, to me, a big deal- not forgetting that after 30 years it'll be just as in or out of style as the day you bought it!

Yup, 4 solid seasons here. NJ should be pretty similar but Michigan is affected by being surrounded by Lakes so we get pretty hammered in spots with "lake effect" snow. As far as Harris tweed goes, most would consider it here for a sport jacket for the fall and spring. It can run fairly pricey over here.

**Doc4** · 10-02-2009, 04:13 PM

HT has a good rep here ... or at least it used to the last time I paid attention. My dad always spoke highly of HT sportscoats as being high class. It does tend to have a bit of "retired British gent" to the reputation as well. I haven't seen much of it at all in stores for ages, and the little I saw was pretty lightweight/flimsy stuff you wouldn't want to get caught wearing in a light rain (which is IMHO not what HT is supposed to be like.)

Originally Posted by scottish steve

Hi guys. Been away for a while and very glad this sub-forum's been thought of. Thanks B&B. BBC4 have recently had a Scottish Theme running for a few weeks and I was fascinated by there 3hr exploration of the Harris Tweed industry and attempts to get it back off its knees after some pillock decided to ruin it, the unironically-named Mr Haggas. Anyway, putting any aesthetic differences to one side, there is no doubt that this is a Heritage cloth and about as good quality as you can get. I have a couple or three tweed jackets, one of which is Harris (absolute mint condition, never been take out of the wrapper, 2 button, 2 vent houndstooth from Dunn & Co, made in the 60s and a perfect fit.) and the robustness & hand-made feel is apparent from 10 feet away. But I was wondering how many of you out there wear/would like to own a Harris Tweed item? Is it off the radar in the States?

Two questions ... what exactly did Mr. Haggas do that so threatened the industry? Do tell (for those of us who can't see the doc?)

... and ... how can you tell the jacket fits perfectly if you haven't taken it out of the wrapper??

**Phog Allen** · 10-02-2009, 07:56 PM

Put me down as another fan. Agree with the retired British gent sort of image, and I like it.

I do not currently own a jacket but would buy one in a heartbeat. I have a flat cap that was woven in Ireland by J Hanly & Co. ltd. It is of superb quality and certainly no stench. Harris Tweed has a grand reputation around here. At least by those who know of it.

Regards, Todd

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 08:55 PM

Harris Tweed has, over more than a century, developed organically, producing around eight hundred different patterns from the inhabitants' craft on hand-powered looms, passing on skills for generations. Mr Haggas, as far As I'm aware, spent a fortune buying the rights to these patterns and getting the majority of the weavers to come and work for him. THEN, he DID AWAY with all but 4 Tweeds and tried to punt only two styles of readymade jacket, ignoring Saville Row's pleas. He then closed the mill.

**scottish steve** · 10-02-2009, 09:21 PM

(I'm posting from my mobile so limited to the No of words in each post.) ...He had to close the mill as nobody was buying his jackets (he was totally ignorant of the whole POINT of Harris Tweed!), and many of the weavers have found other work. Some courageous and wonderful people from The Row and elsewhere, including Glasgow, have been doing wonders setting up and supporting the remaining weavers to keep the only cloth in the world which is protected by Act of Parliament. I wish them well.

**Phog Allen** · 10-02-2009, 09:55 PM

Wow Steve. That is the stupidest thing I have ever heard of. I have known for years that Harris Tweed was not a single "brand" so to speak of woolen cloth. It was more a consortium of local weavers and patterns so to speak. I don't know the exact details but I did know there were Parliamentary laws that affected it. Why do these dolts buy up something as traditional as the patterns for Harris Tweed and then make only four of them? Who did he think he was selling to, twenty somethings? I understand the patterns were not really geared toward "old people", they were just considered old fashioned. I have a hard time mocking something that has stood the test of time for several hundred years. Harris Tweed enjoys a reputation here in the States for QUALITY fabric. I applaud those from Savile and Glasgow who are trying to keep this alive. If you run into Mr. Haggas, do us all a favour and slap the water out of him.

Regards, Todd

**scottish steve** · 10-03-2009, 06:21 AM

I will definitely give him a slap! I think his website is harrisTweedscotland or something and when buying any new jacket I will be checking THOROUGHLY that it didn't come from his mill. For all you tweedies out there there's a decent vintage market- try vintagewhistles.co.uk...but hands off the 42 shorts!

**AZShaver** · 10-03-2009, 11:23 AM

Steve, I would love to have a sport coat of HT. The trouble is, the only 2 days a year cold enough to wear it would be something you might consider summer. We had 114 days of 100 degree F. this year.

**scottish steve** · 10-04-2009, 12:16 PM

Thanks! I must admit to a certain protective sentiment on this subject. It is very climate-specific and would be heat-exhaustion-inducing in anything but mild heat. Do you wear linen by any chance? That's great stuff (but not grown in Scotland).

**AZShaver** · 10-04-2009, 06:23 PM

Actually, more cotton and rayon, excellent stuff, think Aloha shirts, do you know about them in Scotland? I didn't see any when at the Tattoo in 1991.

**scottish steve** · 10-04-2009, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by AZShaver

Actually, more cotton and rayon, excellent stuff, think Aloha shirts, do you know about them in Scotland? I didn't see any when at the Tattoo in 1991.

don't know rayon and never worn a hula shirt but cotton's good, if not quite as good as its rep. Would LOVE a casual sports jacket in the same HD cotton as my judo jacket. When i lived in Japan I basically looke American to dress for the heat. Don't forget hemp either. Brilliant