My (somewhat unique) shaving experience so far... (comments much appreciated!)

Hi,

I've spent a good few hours today looking into the art of shaving and I've found that the internet is ridiculously full of contrary advice on the matter. I'm glad to find a forum where the advice is more fluid and I can air all the questions that have been popping into my head. If you can bear my newbie questions your comments are much appreciated.

First, a little bit of history... I started shaving about 10 years ago when I was 14. I pretty much just used Gilette's cartridge razor system of the time (Mach 3 or the generation before) and their related gel. I would shave with the grain and maybe across it, but never against. I never had much trouble with burn, pain or even cuts. As I got older I started getting denser stubble and noticed that if I didn't wash my face or shower first then I would get more cuts.

By the age of 18, however, my shaving technique was essentially useless - I would pretty much have a days worth of stubble shaving with and across the grain. I didn't want the perma-designer-stubble look so this forced me to go against the grain and I have been getting BBS shaves ever since. I was getting cuts for a while but I then did some searching on the net and read a lot of recommendations for shaving in the shower. I have found it works incredibly well; I never bleed if I shave in the shower.

In fact, I now get in the shower, moisturize and soak my face, put on some gel and shave against the grain. Normally just once. That's it. Additional strokes don't seem to help. Shaving with the grain first just seems to make my against the grain shaves less good. I don't really get any irritation and it doesn't bleed or hurt. The skin feels ever-so-slightly sensitive, but to be honest, I get more pain using menthol shower gel down below!

So... some questions

* Does anybody else just shave once against the grain and get a good shave?

* Why does everywhere suggest going with the grain first and then against the grain? I just find cutting the hair down with the grain makes the remaining stubble harder to cut.

* I've read some things I find quite hard to believe. For example, at http://www.manology.co.za/pages.php?pageid=35 :

"By shaving against the grain, you have a higher chance of cutting the hair off below the skins surface and inviting ingrown hairs."

How can this be so? How can you cut hair *under* the skins surface? That just doesn't make sense to me.

* I had thick dense stubble that necessitated a change in shaving technique. I find that now even against the grain doesn't get quite as close as I like on the sides under my mouth. If I go with the grain its much worse. What should I do?

* I'm on holiday at the moment but I plan to get a badger brush and some good shaving cream to lather up properly. Could this offer me an improvement with the grain? I'm expecting an improvement against the grain.

* Do any people who do the DE or straight razor thing shave in the shower for the added benefits that I find?

I think that's enough questions... for now!

All the best,

Alex

Strangely enough, my father also finds that one pass against the grain seems to work for him. After hearing about my experiences with a DE, I invited him to come give it a try again (he's electric shaving). He did against the grain on his neck and with the grain on the rest of his face (this probably sounds absolutely crazy to the more experienced shavers than I am). But yeah, I suppose it does work for some people- YMMV (an expression you'll come to love on these boards). When it comes to ingrown hairs, it's true that shaving against the grain makes it more probable to get an ingrown hair. I can't tell you the specifics and science behind that statement, but I've seen it verified from a number of sources, including some shavers that visit this board.
Another newbie,
-James

P.S. Look below for better advice : )

Hi Alex --

I'll take these on. Others will chime in as well as there are a variety of beard and skin types, so there are multiple techniques. Some techniques will work for you better than others. Understand that most everyone here has migrated from electrics and cartridge razors to Double Edge (DE) type razors with very sharp blades and great, slippery lather. Some shave with straights.

* Does anybody else just shave once against the grain and get a good shave?

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Generally not. A single pass would not be against the grain; that would be much too aggressive with a DE. This would be quite uncomfortable without reducing the beard first with a 'with the grain' (WTG) pass. See next.

* Why does everywhere suggest going with the grain first and then against the grain? I just find cutting the hair down with the grain makes the remaining stubble harder to cut.

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If you'll review Mantic's videos, he illustrates 'beard reduction' with multiple passes in different directions relative to beard growth. It actually makes it easier to (comfortably) shave the remaining stubble. Understand that the DE and conventional razor blade is much stiffer than the flimsy, teeny little multiple 'blades' in a cartridge --and these teeny blades don't work well at finishing up against remaining stubble.

* I've read some things I find quite hard to believe. For example, at http://www.manology.co.za/pages.php?pageid=35 :

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I just quickly looked at the page, and didn't see anything 'wrong' with the points he makes; it was good as far as it went. These were just bullet points though, very much generalities and relatively superficial. I thought it was 'all bun, no beef'. There's a lot to learn and evaluate. I recommend you also checkout Leisureguy's blog, and especially read the writings from Kyle, stickeyed at the top of this forum. There is far more information here at B&B with many members sharing their experiences and discoveries. You'll find the folks here helpful and encouraging in a way that static web pages cannot.

"By shaving against the grain, you have a higher chance of cutting the hair off below the skins surface and inviting ingrown hairs."
How can this be so? How can you cut hair *under* the skins surface? That just doesn't make sense to me.

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Particularly with cartridges, one blade will 'pull' the whisker up exposing it to be cut by the following blade; the whisker then 'falls back' into the pore and can be below the skin level. This invites ingrowns, especially in men that have curly hair.

* I had thick dense stubble that necessitated a change in shaving technique. I find that now even against the grain doesn't get quite as close as I like on the sides under my mouth. If I go with the grain its much worse. What should I do?

Click to expand...

What you're discovering is that in tender areas, ATG can be really rough without some prepatory WTG/XTG passes. ATG only is harsh, and is still only reducing, not eliminating the whiskers. That's why we do multiple passes. Good face prep, good lather, a 'real' razor, a sharp blade, and decent multi-pass technique will give an excellent comfortable shave without stubble --even in tricky areas like this.

* I'm on holiday at the moment but I plan to get a badger brush and some good shaving cream to lather up properly. Could this offer me an improvement with the grain?

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Yes.

I'm expecting an improvement against the grain.

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...and with proper beard reduction, improvement against the grain you shall have.

* Do any people who do the DE or straight razor thing shave in the shower for the added benefits that I find?

Click to expand...

Very few shave in the shower --that's a phenomena that came with the introduction of cartridges where you can mindlessly stroke your face with the flimsy and somewhat forgiving teeny blades encased in plastic. With a straight or DE you need to be attentive and deliberate. Most shave after a shower and take the time they need to produce a great lather and pay attention to the razor. You need to be deliberate, attentive, and address the problems you mention, and you'll be rewarded with a great shaving experience.

HTH.

-- John Gehman

For many years now, since I began shaving, I have been in the habit of shaving against the grain from the first pass. Never had an ingrown hair on my face nor bumps and very seldom do I get razor burn (if I do, it is gone in a few minutes) However, the worse case of razor burn and nicks I ever had was when trying to employ the passes with the grain...left to right, right to left yada yada and then in for the whamy kill of against the grain...in my opinion, at least for my face, this method is detrimental.

alexaaz said:

* Do any people who do the DE or straight razor thing shave in the shower for the added benefits that I find?

I think that's enough questions... for now!

All the best,

Alex

Click to expand...

Shaving under the shower with a straight? That sounds like a recipy for amputation of the nose.

alexaaz said:

Hi,

...... I get more pain using menthol shower gel down below!

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It hurts more to shave....
in Australia ??
Sorry....I couldnt help myself.
Sometimes I kill me.
Welcome alexaaz , BTW.

Alex, your primary goal is to reduce your beard, not eliminate it in one shot. It will take some getting used to at first. But a series of passes, beginning with with the grain, then across the grain and finally against the grain, will consistently yield the best results with least irriation.

Good luck.

alexaaz said:

* Do any people who do the DE or straight razor thing shave in the shower for the added benefits that I find?

Click to expand...

Shower shaving can help a lot of shavers, but IMO there are other pre-shave preps that are far more effective than shaving in the shower. The best preshave prep that I know of is detailed here.

I could be wrong here, but also I don't know of any straight razor shavers who shave in the shower. I think it's far too intricate to be practical.

Wow! I'm very impressed with all the responses. I'm going to follow all the links & videos and continue my research into this matter.

I'm wondering... due to time constraints, does anyone here shave with a cartridge system in the week and then a DE razor when they have more time on the weekend? I definitely want to go down the DE razor route but I think a phase across in my shaving methods would be preferable to just an out and out cold turkey switch!

Thanks!

Alex

alexaaz said:

Wow! I'm very impressed with all the responses. I'm going to follow all the links & videos and continue my research into this matter.

I'm wondering... due to time constraints, does anyone here shave with a cartridge system in the week and then a DE razor when they have more time on the weekend? I definitely want to go down the DE razor route but I think a phase across in my shaving methods would be preferable to just an out and out cold turkey switch!

Thanks!

Alex

Click to expand...

Personally my face can no longer tolerate shaving with a cartridge since I picked up wetshaving. My skin is sensitive but took readily to using a DE and good (non-can) shaving products, but the two times I have used a cartridge since have left my face torn up.

You're better off going for a cold turkey switch and deal with the week or two of less than perfect shaves while you peddle around on the DE technique bike with training wheels. Somewhere in that time something snaps and you start getting better shaves and then you just keep improving from there.

A Merkur HD is a great DE razor to learn on, but avoid going right to Feather blades if you can. I started with Derby Extra and was very happy but your mileage may vary.

-- Seth

The short answer is, whatever works for you, go for it. There are few hard and fast rules. If you can shave in one pass against the grain, using a clamshell, more power to you.

alexaaz said:

Hi,

* Do any people who do the DE or straight razor thing shave in the shower for the added benefits that I find?

I think that's enough questions... for now!

All the best,

Alex

Click to expand...

No! imagine what a dropped straight razor might do... I'm getting the willies just thinking about it

Most don't even shave nekid at the sink with a straight - although there are a few courageous souls who prefer to go commando.

Jordan

jnich67 said:

No! imagine what a dropped straight razor might do... I'm getting the willies just thinking about it

Click to expand...

Jordan, this is a very, very good point!

I think I'll go with what you say Seth and once I've got all the accoutrements just do the cold turkey switch. The Merkur HD looks great.

All the best,

Alex