Removing the burr

**Lupin** · 09-17-2009, 08:49 PM

How do you remove the burr when sharpening your straight razors? I just sharpened 3 straights and I noticed one seem quite dull,(TPT) even after a pyramid starting with a DMT1200, brought up to burr, followed by a Norton 4000, then 8000 then 12000. I had to go back to the 4000,gently roll the razor on the edge (instead of the spine) and then I finally got the edge I was looking for and I was able to carry on with the polishing.

I also tried to take the burr off with a chromium pasted strop and it seems to work on the first two, but the last razor took more time....

What methods are you using?

**chess1** · 09-17-2009, 09:12 PM

do couple back strokes . it should do the trick. GL

**professorchaos** · 09-18-2009, 05:54 AM

Draw the edge across a wooden match stick.

**GsSixgun** · 09-19-2009, 12:41 PM

Burrs are a bad thing when sharpening Straights...

You actually shouldn't be raising one when sharpening, it is a symptom of way too much pressure or way to many laps...

As both of the above posts gave ways of getting rid of them there is no sense in me explaining that...

You should really be sneaking up on the edge of a straight razor, raising a burr is for knives and tools....

The Norton Pyramid method is specifically designed to prevent this BTW because you are dropping back to a lower grit stone which also will remove the beginnings of a burr....

If I am reading your post correctly when you "removed" a burr using CrOx I would bet that you have a ton more smoothness left to find on those razors...

**leighton** · 09-19-2009, 01:07 PM

Agree with Glen. You should not be raising a burr. Period. No ifs ands or buts about it.

The alternate strokes on each side should not give rise to a burr.

Other than what Glen has already said, if your going to use the progressive method, stop honing on the 8k when the razor is done. Test every 5 laps to make sure your not honing for no reason. But your probably not spending enough time on the 4k if the razors not sharp enough on the 8k after 30 laps.

**chess1** · 09-19-2009, 01:27 PM

Originally Posted by Lupin

How do you remove the burr when sharpening your straight razors?

Am i missing something? Didn't this person ask how to remove bur?

**leighton** · 09-19-2009, 01:29 PM

Originally Posted by chess1

Am i missing something? Didn't this person ask how to remove bur?

Yes, but that would be like stamping out a small campfire when there is a wildfire raging 10 ft away.

Ok, fine, I don't know exactly how the analogy goes... But the point is that if we just address the issue without confronting the real problem, we're not really helping this fellow.

**chess1** · 09-19-2009, 01:59 PM

OK his problem i don't think so is putting too much pressure.
Too much pressure will not form the bur.
Actually very less pressure and too many laps will form the bur.
Next i truly Believe This person's real problem is it didn't make enough laps on 4k and 8k
he never formed the "v " edge. that is why he has bur not because he ha put in there less pressure or make a too many laps.
hope this clears a little

**GsSixgun** · 09-19-2009, 02:33 PM

Originally Posted by Lupin

How do you remove the burr when sharpening your straight razors? I just sharpened 3 straights and I noticed one seem quite dull,(TPT) even after a pyramid starting with a DMT1200, brought up to burr, followed by a Norton 4000, then 8000 then 12000. I had to go back to the 4000,gently roll the razor on the edge (instead of the spine) and then I finally got the edge I was looking for and I was able to carry on with the polishing.

I also tried to take the burr off with a chromium pasted strop and it seems to work on the first two, but the last razor took more time....

What methods are you using?

This is what I read as a porblem

**Lupin** · 09-19-2009, 03:42 PM

Thanks guys...

I'm not even sure it's a burr.

What I do know is that after going from the 4000 to the 8000, the tpt indicated to me that the edge wasn't as sharp as when I got off the 4000. I did correct it by going back to the 4000. I have had similar problems in the past... where I was having trouble getting it shaving sharp off the hones but this time it worked out well. Shaving sharp, no dragging.

As far as trokes go, I use as many as are required at the 4000 level, probably 10-15 at the 8000 level and 15-20 on the chinese 12k. I then follow up with 20 strokes on the chromium oxide strop. I then clean the balde and strop 40-50 times on a leather strop.

**gary haywood** · 09-21-2009, 12:13 AM

Your razor probably was'nt quite sharp enough I'd like to no how do we no we have formed a bur? what are the signs?

**GsSixgun** · 09-21-2009, 08:46 AM

Originally Posted by gary haywood

I'd like to no how do we no we have formed a bur? what are the signs?

The first part of a burr will feel rough on one or the other sides of the edge, it will curl to one side first, then the other, then break off leaving a very rough spot on the edge... Even worse is the fact that this might only happen on one part of the edge since you might be dealing with an uneven edge also..

So now you would have a partially good edge and a rough spot all on the same razor... Then if you really want to add to the fun as you try and get this even by honing you overhone the good part and get the bad part to good and create an even worse problem...

This is why you hear me say so many times "You want to sneak up on the edge"

**cityjim** · 09-26-2009, 04:52 AM

Originally Posted by GsSixgun

The first part of a burr will feel rough on one or the other sides of the edge, it will curl to one side first, then the other, then break off leaving a very rough spot on the edge... Even worse is the fact that this might only happen on one part of the edge since you might be dealing with an uneven edge also..

So now you would have a partially good edge and a rough spot all on the same razor... Then if you really want to add to the fun as you try and get this even by honing you overhone the good part and get the bad part to good and create an even worse problem...

This is why you hear me say so many times "You want to sneak up on the edge"

+1

OP's results are from excessive honing , pressure or too agressive a stone . DMT rings a bell as one not to use on straights . They will chip the heck out of the edge . And they don't get along at all with really hard steels .

Get some tried and true Arkansas stones . This set is all you will ever need and has free shipping .

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...-x-3-x-12.aspx

cityjim

**CraigJ** · 09-26-2009, 12:29 PM

I run my razor perpendicular to the hone with one swipe to remove any potential burrs. This is not a technique I invented just one I saw on a video from Tosuke. I figure if it was good enough for him it is good enough for me.

**Fnord5** · 09-26-2009, 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by cityjim

+1

OP's results are from excessive honing , pressure or too agressive a stone . DMT rings a bell as one not to use on straights . They will chip the heck out of the edge . And they don't get along at all with really hard steels .

Get some tried and true Arkansas stones . This set is all you will ever need and has free shipping .

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...-x-3-x-12.aspx

cityjim

DMT was MADE for hard steels.
And I thought you were a die-hard spyderco fan.
And just last week, I seem to remember you spouting the virtues of the Belgian Coticule.

**gary haywood** · 09-26-2009, 11:14 PM

Originally Posted by GsSixgun

The first part of a burr will feel rough on one or the other sides of the edge, it will curl to one side first, then the other, then break off leaving a very rough spot on the edge... Even worse is the fact that this might only happen on one part of the edge since you might be dealing with an uneven edge also..

So now you would have a partially good edge and a rough spot all on the same razor... Then if you really want to add to the fun as you try and get this even by honing you overhone the good part and get the bad part to good and create an even worse problem...

This is why you hear me say so many times "You want to sneak up on the edge"

That rings a bell i remember when i first started out i had arazor honed up up and the tpt felt smooth sticky but one spot felt rough on my thumb and it took some getting right now i no why . nower days i use light pressure pressure when i need it but i never felt this roughness since thanxs

**cityjim** · 09-27-2009, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by Fnord5

DMT was MADE for hard steels.
And I thought you were a die-hard spyderco fan.
And just last week, I seem to remember you spouting the virtues of the Belgian Coticule.

Fnerd5 ,

DMT stones chips a razors edge . Get yourself a $11.00 Radio Shack microscope and see for yourself . They are fine for camping axes and kitchen knives . Not so hot for razor edges . The harder the steel the more chips you get . How many people do you know use a DMT to finish hone their razors ? 0 And why do you think that is ????

Actually I prefer Arkansas stones . The Spyderco stones are a good product and work for me .

Well why didn't you post the link where I commented on the alledged Belgian product . Sorry but you are incorrect again . And for sure I never posted about it last week .

Nice try but if you have something to say to me directly just PM me .

cityjim

**leighton** · 09-27-2009, 02:47 PM

Joel has used (and perhaps still uses) the DMT 8k and then crox to finish razors and according to him, its quite good.

**JonnyAngel** · 09-27-2009, 05:39 PM

I have a DTM 8k and find that the Shapton 16K really smooths out the edge left by the DTM. However, there is nothing wrong with using a DTM to set bevels. If Im not mistaken Prof Choas (Henry) has used them with good results in the past.

**Fnord5** · 09-27-2009, 06:15 PM

Originally Posted by leighton

Joel has used (and perhaps still uses) the DMT 8k and then crox to finish razors and according to him, its quite good.

Originally Posted by JonnyAngel

I have a DTM 8k and find that the Shapton 16K really smooths out the edge left by the DTM. However, there is nothing wrong with using a DTM to set bevels. If Im not mistaken Prof Choas (Henry) has used them with good results in the past.

Seraphim also uses DMT's for preliminary work and initial polishing(the 8k)

Unless you are applying pressure, a DMT 8k will not chip an edge any more than any other 8k stone. Sure, it can leave a gnarly scratch pattern, but I don't stop at the 8k level.

I suppose stropping on deerskin stretched over a leaf spring won't compensate for a DMT though.