BillEllis
04-16-2009, 12:46 AM
Some of you may think it's okay to use your fingers to sand the hollows of a straight razor blade in an attempt to restore it. Your fingers are too soft and it can create uneveness in the overall appearance of your finished work. You should alway try to use a jig or template of some type to aid in getting it done the right way the first time around.
If you have my cd, there are a couple options for you to use to make the boring task a little more tolerable. This shop trick is another method for you to use.
Always remember to use the least aggressive method of addressing the surface of the blade first. If that doesn't work, bump it up a notch.
Go to the hardware store and buy about one foot of 7/8-inch ID rubber tubing for a dishwasher. Cut off 5 inches, or thereabout. Then cut another piece about one inch long. Remove about a 3/4 inch section of the small piece to be used as a pressure-type clamp on the outside edge of the tubing that will hold the sandpaper in place. (pic 1)
Cut strips of sandpaper about 1 1/2 inches wide or experiment with what works good for you. This is a suggestion and not a hardfast measurement. Wrap the sandpaper around the circumference of the tubing and use the spare piece to hold the sandpaper in place as you sand the hollow of the blade. (pic 2 and 3)
Hold the hose and sandpaper so that it does not cause fatigue while you are using it. (pic 4) As the sandpaper wears away on the edge that contacts steel, rotate it around the circumference of the hose and then reposition the outer band of rubber to hold in in place. Once the entire edge of the sandpaper has been used up, remove it and cut away an eighth inch or so away so that you have fresh grit on the same piece of sandpaper strip that you were using. Reposition the paper and repeat the process until the sandpaper becomes unusable.
For heavily pitted blades, I'd suggest starting with 220/240 grit, then go to 400, 600, and then 1,000. At that stage you can consider the final blade finish and use the appropriate tools to achieve it. Shop-roll sandpaper works real good because it is normally a bit thicker and has a good working surface. You can get it in different grits at hardware stores and auto stores.
If you have my cd, there are a couple options for you to use to make the boring task a little more tolerable. This shop trick is another method for you to use.
Always remember to use the least aggressive method of addressing the surface of the blade first. If that doesn't work, bump it up a notch.
Go to the hardware store and buy about one foot of 7/8-inch ID rubber tubing for a dishwasher. Cut off 5 inches, or thereabout. Then cut another piece about one inch long. Remove about a 3/4 inch section of the small piece to be used as a pressure-type clamp on the outside edge of the tubing that will hold the sandpaper in place. (pic 1)
Cut strips of sandpaper about 1 1/2 inches wide or experiment with what works good for you. This is a suggestion and not a hardfast measurement. Wrap the sandpaper around the circumference of the tubing and use the spare piece to hold the sandpaper in place as you sand the hollow of the blade. (pic 2 and 3)
Hold the hose and sandpaper so that it does not cause fatigue while you are using it. (pic 4) As the sandpaper wears away on the edge that contacts steel, rotate it around the circumference of the hose and then reposition the outer band of rubber to hold in in place. Once the entire edge of the sandpaper has been used up, remove it and cut away an eighth inch or so away so that you have fresh grit on the same piece of sandpaper strip that you were using. Reposition the paper and repeat the process until the sandpaper becomes unusable.
For heavily pitted blades, I'd suggest starting with 220/240 grit, then go to 400, 600, and then 1,000. At that stage you can consider the final blade finish and use the appropriate tools to achieve it. Shop-roll sandpaper works real good because it is normally a bit thicker and has a good working surface. You can get it in different grits at hardware stores and auto stores.