First Straight razor score

[el_chupacabra]

Well gents, I just won my first Straight off of ebay. Tell me how you think I did- Wade & Butcher "The Celebrated" in fair condition.

Link to auction with pics:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=120392565120

I am planning on making this my first restoration project to transform into an everyday shaver. What tools do i need to get the job done? My shopping list so far:

Ellis restoration jig
Dremel tool w/ sanding and polishing tips
Sand paper - 120, 240, 320, 400, 800, 1000, and 2-2500 grits- I am looking to put a mirror finish on it.
Polishing compound- please recommend?

What else should I look at getting? I am sure I will need some more once I get the razor in hand and see the actual condition, but seems this should get me started.

[leighton]

Sometimes his razors are good, other times they are horrible.

I recommend hand sanding only. Thats actually fairly cheap for a W&B "The Celebrated." However, the condition its in is pretty poor. Plus, theres no pic of the other side. Buy MAAS or Flitz. You'll also need an entire weekend.

[Aquanin]

Nice score, I have been trying to get a nice W&B wedge for a bit to restore.
If you want a mirror finish you might need more than the weekend. Good luck.

[el_chupacabra]

One more question, am I correct in assuming that regular sandpaper from home depot will work just fine, or do I need to find a special type of sandpaper?

[stnlymumford]

I use the wet dry 3m imperial from autozone. I still go through it pretty quick.

[leighton]

One more question, am I correct in assuming that regular sandpaper from home depot will work just fine, or do I need to find a special type of sandpaper?

No, you need wet/dry. Normal sandpaper will crumble and wear out too quickly.

[leighton]

Nice score, I have been trying to get a nice W&B wedge for a bit to restore.
If you want a mirror finish you might need more than the weekend. Good luck.

This is true. My estimation of man hours: 40 if you want it perfect.

[lax1mxr]

Keep those scales as well. They are horn and look to be in good condition and have the original bullsey pins. Razor is worth more if you keep those.

I use Turtle wax rubbing compound after the sandpaper.

Make sure to use wet-dry sandpaper, the kind you get from the auto store.

Personally, I would start with Emery compound and a buffing wheel (or dremel) and work your way up. You will get a real nice shine, but also retain the original patina that shows the age. Just personnal preference and about 30 hours less work. :tongue_sm

[el_chupacabra]

Thanks for all the advice so far. I picked up dry 150, 220, and 320 grit sheets, then wet 400, 600, 800, 1200, and 1500 at a local wood working shop. Should I take the dry sheets back and get wet sheets of equal grit? And as far as the wet component, would WD-40 be ok?

I am really excited about seeing the condition of the scales. I couldn't see any defects in the pictures. Am I correct in assuming I can use the finer grit paper to buff up the scales, assuming they are horn?

And lastly, since they had them at the wood working shop as well, which is better? Honing films, or the norton wet stones? The films seem easier, as they also had a machined level block for them.

[leighton]

Thanks for all the advice so far. I picked up dry 150, 220, and 320 grit sheets, then wet 400, 600, 800, 1200, and 1500 at a local wood working shop. Should I take the dry sheets back and get wet sheets of equal grit? And as far as the wet component, would WD-40 be ok?

I am really excited about seeing the condition of the scales. I couldn't see any defects in the pictures. Am I correct in assuming I can use the finer grit paper to buff up the scales, assuming they are horn?

And lastly, since they had them at the wood working shop as well, which is better? Honing films, or the norton wet stones? The films seem easier, as they also had a machined level block for them.

Yes, you should go back and get wet/dry paper. Well, you don't have to, but you'll be cursing yourself if you don't. Yes, you can use WD-40 as the wet agent. However, you can use the wet/dry dry. We recommend it because it lasts longer and gives you the option of wet.

Usually his scales are in fantastic condition. Yes, you can use the fine grit to get out imperfections and then buff the scales. But the scales are probably fine and some MAAS should do the trick.

Better....send it to a honemeister. Not worth the trouble if this is your first honing job. I highly recommend outsourcing the hone. With the right tools, the hone restoration work takes hours sometimes. On this sellers razors, the bevels usually are not set. Not worth it at all to hone it yourself. I am of course going off the fact that you don't even have a hone and don't know the difference between film and a stone and that you have to lap the nortons. Thus, for a first time honer, send it out, get it back and understand what true sharpness feels like.

[el_chupacabra]

Razor arrived today, looks like it is mostly just dirty. "The Celebrated" etching is still clean, but the "Hollow Ground Razor" underneath is partially worn off. Edge looks clean, no chips, no pitting anywhere near it. Scales are in decent shape, with 2 minor cracks. Pins look good, not sure how tight they should be, but the razor isn't rattling around or anything. They are straight, and the razor centers nicely in them. A little bit of TLC, and I think this will be an awesome razor.

Question to people who have experience in restoring these? How do you go about sanding and polishing around the fine word etching on the center of the blade? And also, how does horn react with scrubbing bubbles? I use it to clean my futur, so I am wondering if there is any adverse reaction with horn and razor steel?

I will post some pictures tonight when I get home.

[leighton]

If there is pitting on the side with etching, there is no way to save it and clean the pitting. In fact, you should probably resign yourself to losing the etching, that way it will hurt less if you lose it. TBH, the slightest of sanding normally destroys etching. If you want to try to save it, hand polish the blade with some maas. Can't help you any more without pics.

Edit: forgot there was a link to pics.

The etching is probably gone. Not savable. Unless you want a dirty, pitty razor.

The scales can be polished with Maas with no ill effects.

btw, whats a futur?

[el_chupacabra]

btw, whats a futur?


Merkur Futur, the DE razor I am currently using.

[mdunn]

I always give razors a quick polish before I start with the sandpaper (just braso and a rag), it removes a lot of the surface crap and gives you a better idea of how to attack whatever rust there is. Othwewise some areas that look like theyre going to need heaps of sandpapering turn out not to, and other areas that look ok turn out to have more pitting than you thought.

[leighton]

Wash it first. : ) Soap and dish water. Cleans off most of the gunk. You can use the scotch pad side of the sponge too, it might leave small scratches, but your going to restore the razor anyway. Polish is expensive in time and money. :) Dish soap is cheap and quick.

[Kema]

Start with 1200 grit paper and see how it goes. Usually people start with too heavy papers and make more damage than good. Then they spend 30 hours polishing those scratches made in first 2 minutes with too coarse paper. Move to 600 grit if 1200 doesn't work. Always use wet sandpaper. I give finishing touch with Farecla G3 and Autosol compounds.

[el_chupacabra]

As promised, here are some pictures of the razor. I don't have a tripod, and my camera is a simple casio point and shoot, but as you can see, the pitting is pretty bad, and part of the etching has already been worn down.

http://i44.tinypic.com/2vm7rds.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/314t8jq.jpg
http://i44.tinypic.com/fdcbxg.jpg
http://i43.tinypic.com/ixs4yo.jpg

I haven't touched it with sand paper yet, but my plan is to start high, at like 800 grit, and see what I can get out, and take it from there.

[jadam318]

Cool project. I'm about to start my first restoration (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=82184) as well, so the information in this thread is of particular interest to me.

Let us know how everything goes. I am really attracted to these large Wade & Butcher blades. There's something appealing about a big ole wedge :cool:.

[leighton]

Cool project. I'm about to start my first restoration (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=82184) as well, so the information in this thread is of particular interest to me.

Let us know how everything goes. I am really attracted to these large Wade & Butcher blades. There's something appealing about a big ole wedge :cool:.

Its a hollow.

Doesn't look too bad.

[jadam318]

Its a hollow.



Good point :blushing:. I didn't look too closely. Mine is a wedge...we'll just say I was thinking about that, eh?

[leighton]

Good point :blushing:. I didn't look too closely. Mine is a wedge...we'll just say I was thinking about that, eh?

I'll keep your secret. :wink: :biggrin:






Oh, wait....:lol:

[el_chupacabra]

So I began actually sanding last night. Started @ 800 grit to get an idea of how bad some of the pitting was. Dropped to 400, then 320, then ended up going all the way down to 150 grit, but I have pretty much cleaned off all the pitting and scratches. I started work on the back side, or the side w/o "the celebrated" on it. Took probably about 2 hours of sanding to get it there (well 2hrs of sanding, while watching tv, and sipping vodka). It is kind of neat to work on these razors, and hold something that has traveled around the world for the last +/- 160 years.

After I work on the front of the razor I will post some more pictures.

[mkevenson]

El Chupacabra, I'm dyin to see more pics of your project. Great thread. I am getting my stuff together to start my own resto on this Jonathan Crookes

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb212/mkevenson/jonathan%20crookes/johncrookesrazor002.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb212/mkevenson/jonathan%20crookes/johncrookesrazor001.jpg