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Matz
03-11-2009, 04:09 PM
i bought a slim at an antique market, really good condition. The problem is that the adjustments don't work. Any idea if this razor is still salvageable?

Dustinl
03-11-2009, 04:26 PM
Matz,

Don't give up on it yet. Squirt some Liquid Wrench penetrating fluid around the adjust mechanism, let it set for a little while and then try to work the adjustment knob. Hope you get it unstuck.


DL

braxis
03-11-2009, 04:32 PM
if you have wd-40 that would work as well though not as quickly also the luquid wrench and the like sometimes can harm plastics so keep that in mind

Fnord5
03-11-2009, 04:38 PM
Aye, mineral oil, or any other oil is a great way to loosen up razors.

Also a good long soak in hot water, or scrubbing bubbles will clear the inside junk away.

Topgumby
03-11-2009, 04:47 PM
Kano Aerokroil. That'll loosen up almost any corrosion.

Also, perhaps it's "out of time"?

tsenfw
03-11-2009, 05:24 PM
I would advise against the wd-40.

Although it cleans great and seems to lubricate, it really isn't good for lubricating as it is mostly made of kerosene. At least that's what I've heard in relation to auto/motorcycle care as far as lubricating.

jakuda
03-11-2009, 05:25 PM
i bought a slim at an antique market, really good condition. The problem is that the adjustments don't work. Any idea if this razor is still salvageable?

If you know this already then kindly disregard: use the adjustment knob when the razor doors are open.

MotoMike
03-11-2009, 05:41 PM
If you know this already then kindly disregard: use the adjustment knob when the razor doors are open.

Beat me to it Jakuda. OP did not describe the situation, but if when the doors are open the 4 platforms in the bottom of the blade bay move up and down, it could be operator problem. when the doors are locked down you can move the dial, but will not likely see any movement in the blade gap.

SavantStrike
03-11-2009, 06:01 PM
I would advise against the wd-40.

Although it cleans great and seems to lubricate, it really isn't good for lubricating as it is mostly made of kerosene. At least that's what I've heard in relation to auto/motorcycle care as far as lubricating.

What about silicone as a lubricant? It's supposed to be water resistant to boot.

mmack66
03-11-2009, 06:43 PM
Beat me to it Jakuda. OP did not describe the situation, but if when the doors are open the 4 platforms in the bottom of the blade bay move up and down, it could be operator problem. when the doors are locked down you can move the dial, but will not likely see any movement in the blade gap.

You still see movement.

Roman414
03-11-2009, 06:49 PM
You can use the WD-40 to to get the mechanism working properly again, then clean the razor thoroughly and apply a little mineral or baby oil for lubrication. That works well for me...I have unstuck several adjustables that way.

MotoMike
03-11-2009, 06:52 PM
You still see movement.


You are part right. If you lock down the doors and try to dial it up, that is to say more blade gap, you won't get any movement. There is no place for the platorms to go, you have taken up all the space by clamping down the doors. If you try to dial it down, you might get movement and you might not. depends on the individual razor. If you do get movement, your blade will be loose and you stand the chance of getting chattering blade and getting chewed up. Also the design curve in the blade will not exist because it relies on the doors being clamped tightly against the platforms with the blade in between. Always adjust these razors before you clamp them down. And when I say clamped down, that includes a quarter turn afte the slack is taken up.

mmack66
03-11-2009, 07:15 PM
You are part right. If you lock down the doors and try to dial it up, that is to say more blade gap, you won't get any movement. There is no place for the platorms to go, you have taken up all the space by clamping down the doors. If you try to dial it down, you might get movement and you might not. depends on the individual razor. If you do get movement, your blade will be loose and you stand the chance of getting chattering blade and getting chewed up. Also the design curve in the blade will not exist because it relies on the doors being clamped tightly against the platforms with the blade in between. Always adjust these razors before you clamp them down. And when I say clamped down, that includes a quarter turn afte the slack is taken up.

I see your point, but if what you say is true, you wouldn't be able to close the doors all the way.

MotoMike
03-11-2009, 08:16 PM
Mark
I am not sure what you mean by not being able to close the doors all the way. I beleive they are designed to work this way. I feel that if you carefully look at how the razor is built, you will come to the conclusion that it is the only way it can work.

:smile:

domino
03-11-2009, 08:44 PM
#1


If you know this already then kindly disregard: use the adjustment knob when the razor doors are open.

__________________________________________________ ___________
I am sure I read some where here on the forum that lighter fluid is a good choice to clean the gunk out of a razor.It also evaporates unlike WD40.I like a smooth shave,but I would prefer a different lubricant:wink:

Matz
03-12-2009, 04:37 AM
The knob actually turns very well, but the blade does not seem to move

AsylumGuido
03-12-2009, 07:49 AM
The knob actually turns very well, but the blade does not seem to move

Open the doors wide open with no blade installed and move the adjuster knob slowly back and forth from "1" to "9" and watch the four platforms in the blade compartment. they should be raising and lowering slightly. If they are not moving that means the adjuster plate (which is located on a band just above the adjuster knob) is stuck. It should be easily moving manual with your fingers. If you can't move it easily then it is being obstructed. When ever I come across one in this condition I use my ultrasonic cleaner on it. It will get into every crevice and clean the gunk out. On some of the really bad ones it may take multiple sessions, but it also works so well it will remove the paint in the numbers. For normally gunky Slims a single session does fine cleaning the razor out and doesn't harm the paint.

Another option which I don't use, but I know works, is to boil the razor for about 10 minutes and then let it soak for about 10-15 more while the water cools a bit.

Be fore getting the ultrasonic cleaner I had very good success working a good deal of Goop Hand Cleaner into the area between the adjuster plate and base and forcing/working the plate up and down until it began to work free. A good cleaning or short boil should clear it right out.

The last resort is to disassemble the razor and clean, but that is a hassle for the non-technical types. Me! :cool: