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View Full Version : Gillette SS vs. Merkur HD - more aggressive?



Dadof3
03-07-2009, 01:16 PM
I've been wetshaving with a Merkur HD for about 8 weeks. I've had great shaves and have been sampling blades as recommended. I seem to have landed on a combination of the Merkur HD and the Gillette 7 0'Clock Yellow blades. I can get BBS most all of the time - I remember all the different growth patterns in my beard.

I acquired a 1958 Gillette SS TV from ebay yesterday. I sterilized it and fitted it with a Gillette 7 o'clock yellow. I shaved this AM performing my usual prep, my usual lathering, etc (I've been doing that part of wetshaving for almost 12 years) and finished with Nivea ASB.

I got a close, smooth shave and 99% of my face is BBS. I'm thrilled to be using a vintage razor.

However, my face is more sensitive today. Not uncomfortable, but I'm aware that I shaved today - if that's a helpful description :confused:.

I felt that the Gillette SS was lighter than the Merkur HD (which I expected) so I was careful not to press to make up for that. But it seems that with the SS I needed to change the AOA on my face ever so slightly to get good blade contact.

That's the long way of asking; is that what is meant by being a more aggressive razor? Is the SS more aggressive than the HD? Not having experienced anything on the DE side other than the HD, I need a frame of reference.

Thanks, Gents!

Paul

greenerock
03-07-2009, 01:27 PM
Every razor shaves a little different. I'd say the Gillette's are a tab bit less aggressive than the HD. Just keep shaving with it and you'll get the hang of it soon. Then, you'll be able to switch and know how to use each razor.

Gruder
03-07-2009, 01:33 PM
Glad things are going so well for you Paul. "Aggressive" refers to the gap between the blade and the safety bar (or the blade and the comb in an open comb razor). The gap in your SS, if anything, should be smaller (e.g. less aggressive) than your HD.

Still, irritation when switching from HD to SS isn't uncommon (I speak, unfortunately, from personal experience). The difference, as you surmise, is in the angle of attack. The bulbous head of the SS simply requires a different angle than the HD. My hunch is that you caused irritation by using more strokes with the SS than you do with the HD. As an aside, it's important with any new razor (any razor at all, really) to avoid shaving a latherless area -- sometimes I'll hit an area a second time in the same pass, only to discover irritation a bit later.

So, you're on the right track. I promise you this: give the SS the same amount of time you took to get accustomed to the HD. The burn should subside, allowing you to decide which razor gives you the closest shave overall.

RGB480
03-07-2009, 01:33 PM
I too started with a HD as my first DE. After 3 weeks of good shaves I tried a SuperSpeed. I got much closer shaves with the SS. I did find myself using a little too much pressure with the SS at first because on my skin it was much, much smoother than the HD with all other variables the same. So I don't know how much use the word "aggressive" is when it comes to these things. The HD didn't cause me irritation, but didn't take as much hair off for the same number of passes and seemed rougher on the skin. At first I didn't like reading "YMMV" after every opinion, but the more I try different things the more I understand. So many variables from person to person that descriptions sometimes aren't even ballpark it seems, even though they have the best intentions and are very accurate for many people.

Teiste
03-07-2009, 02:44 PM
I havent tried your ss model but the one that I use (From the 40s without the data code) is a little bit more agresive than I expected.I have used only once de Merkur HD and I didnt like it.Gillettes were really well made and you can get a BBS without too much effort using just an average blade.
Hope that you enjoy your SS!

Boyextraordinare
03-08-2009, 03:32 AM
Merkur fixed-heads, the HD included, are unduly aggressive IMO.

Of all current manufacturers of DE safety razors, Lord is king. It's a no-nonsense company with a phenomenal range of simple, effective and fairly priced razors.

Chacki
03-08-2009, 07:34 AM
The difference, as you surmise, is in the angle of attack

+1

I found the a similar irritation from switching from my HD to my SS.
In fact , i can honestly say ive found it with most razors , each has its little quirks.

The more experience you have in wet shaving i think the quicker you adjust to the new required angles , to the point where you do it automatically .. but early on you need to pay a little more attention when swapping.

mk-ultra
03-08-2009, 08:44 AM
+1

I found the a similar irritation from switching from my HD to my SS.
In fact , i can honestly say ive found it with most razors , each has its little quirks.

The more experience you have in wet shaving i think the quicker you adjust to the new required angles , to the point where you do it automatically .. but early on you need to pay a little more attention when swapping.

If I may say, the differences with each razor is part of what makes it fun.
It also helps to keep one concentrating. When I pick up a razor that is different from the one I used the day before, I really need to pay attention so that I'm getting the proper angle from that razor. If I were to use only one razor, it would be too easy to become complacent and even careless.
This carelessness leads to nicks and gouges.


Just my opinion. I could be wrong.