Straight razor beginner question

[umgowa997]

After years wandering in the wasteland of disposable razors, I joined B&B and am making the move to a DE razor. I don't have the guts yet to make the huge move to a straight razor . . . but I do want to learn about them for maybe a future move. I've heard you get a better shave with a straight . . less razor burn . . so I'm open to the idea. One of the main turn-offs for me with straight razors is the need to sharpen them yourself. Isn't that an inconvenient pain in the neck? The other potential turn-off for me is the learning curve. Isn't there a pretty steep (and bloody) learning curve with a straight razor?

[mparker762]

One of the main turn-offs for me with straight razors is the need to sharpen them yourself. Isn't that an inconvenient pain in the neck? The other potential turn-off for me is the learning curve. Isn't there a pretty steep (and bloody) learning curve with a straight razor?

Keeping the razor sharp is as much of a PITA as you let it be. Lots of these guys treat shaving as a fun hobby, so they are more accepting of hassle and expense in exchange for more fun. I freely admit to being in this camp. But the hassle and expense isn't necessary by any means, even though it's easy to get that impression by reading the boards. If you just want a great shave then you can keep your razor sharp with very little effort. Get a Tony Miller 2-sided paddle strop, and get him to put his 0.5 micron chrome oxide on one side. Strop it every day on the plain leather side while the sink fills up, and if the razor starts pulling a bit then the next day strop it on the green chrome oxide side instead. This will put more wear on your razor than a full regimen of leather stropping, linen stropping, and honing, but it requires minimal practise, skill, and equipment. And if it means your razor wears out in only 20 years instead of 40 that's probably not a huge deal, especially since it's unlikely that you'll only own one razor that entire time anyway. And you'll have lots of time to learn more advanced maintenance methods later, but when you're just starting out it is critically important that the razor be perfectly sharp day after day. Later on once your shaving technique has gotten better you'll be able to adjust to different levels of sharpness, but there's no point making things difficult in the beginning.

The learning curve for shaving is probably somewhat higher than for a DE, though some people take to it very quickly. You don't have the safety guard, but the blades don't seem so eager to nick or scrape you either. The main thing is to have a very sharp razor (which the chrome oxide will do for you). As with a DE, keep a light touch. Some people recommend a 30 degree angle on the blade, but I personally think it's easier to learn if you keep the blade nearly flat on your face (I've got one vintage razor that has directions printed on the package that says the same thing). You can worry about optimal angles after you've mastered a basic nick-free shave.

[Bacchus]

Learning to hone is just half the fun! :w00t: Imagine using a blade on your face that you sharpened yourself, its great. As for the learning curve, its not that bloody. Yeah a few weepers every now and then, but if you're careful, you'll be fine. If you're worried about blood, get a styptic pencil. Straight razors are great :biggrin:

[umgowa997]

Learning to hone is just half the fun! :w00t: Imagine using a blade on your face that you sharpened yourself, its great. As for the learning curve, its not that bloody. Yeah a few weepers every now and then, but if you're careful, you'll be fine. If you're worried about blood, get a styptic pencil. Straight razors are great :biggrin:

Is it true that you get a better shave with a straight? Less razor burn?

[Bacchus]

All depends on technique and experience. You can get a razor burn free shave with a DE as well, but some people think that the fact that you have to pay more attention to your technique with a straight leads to a better shave.

[mparker762]

Is it true that you get a better shave with a straight? Less razor burn?

Yes, if you do your part. I haven't gotten any razor burn or ingrowns in years, and don't even have the red irritation (not really razor burn) on my neck from shaving against the grain. Some of this comes from having better control over the blade angle, and some of this comes from having control over the blade sharpness. Both dull and extremely sharp blades lead to worse shaves for me, so I try to keep them somewhere in my sweet spot. This isn't really a hassle, at least not much more than changing the DE blade when it gets out of your comfort zone. As with a DE you can tell day by day that the blade is gradually losing sharpness, and eventually you haul out your favorite pasted paddle or hone or whatever and get it sharp again. A basic touch-up like this can take less than a minute since all you're doing is restoring a few days worth of sharpness.

You may not be able to optimize your shave like this at first, because you'll have enough on your plate just figuring out how to get a clean shave without nicking yourself. But eventually you'll get good enough to start experimenting a bit, and as you learn more your shaves will keep improving. I noticed improvement over the first two years though that seems to have tapered off since then.

[umgowa997]

Thanks for the information. Do some guys use both a DE and a straight? Or are there just two camps and you are either a Straight razor guy or a DE guy?

[Bacchus]

I only use a straight, but later I may try DEs, but there are plenty of people here that use a DE and a Straight, usually with respect to time restraints.

[mparker762]

Thanks for the information. Do some guys use both a DE and a straight? Or are there just two camps and you are either a Straight razor guy or a DE guy?

Yes some guys use both. Maybe even most guys. Most guys seem to switch to DE's first, then only later give straights a try.

I use a DE a couple of times a year just to keep my hand in, since I still get PMs about that Vision surgery post.

[crankymoose]

I primarily use a straight but on occasion either by choice or necessity will go back to using one of my DE's, either can give you a great shave with a DE once you get your technique down and if you keep variables down you only need to change the blade every few shaves and you should have a great shave every time,
with straights you need to strop it before every shave, you can buy pasted paddle strops to extend the time between honing and if so you may be able to go a few months between honing and or sending the razor(s) out to be sharpened,
This lnk (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=33718) will answer a lot of your questions

[Bruce]

umgo,

It's hard to improve on what mparker said. About the DE and straight razor use combo: I used to take a DE on the road with me, thinking it was a smaller and simpler package, but gave that up a couple of years ago and now travel with only a straight.

--the turning point with the DE was the morning I turned meat cutter with help from its tender ministrations and said to myself, red faced indeed, "I think I don't much need these tender mercies," and went straight--

[Sticky]

mparker said it better than I could. I do get a better shave and less razor burn with a straight. Enough so that I prefer it to a DE's convenience factor.

Honing is also something that I've always enjoyed. Hobby-wise, there's a lot of addictive things related to straights.

[umgowa997]

Keeping the razor sharp is as much of a PITA as you let it be. Lots of these guys treat shaving as a fun hobby, so they are more accepting of hassle and expense in exchange for more fun. I freely admit to being in this camp. But the hassle and expense isn't necessary by any means, even though it's easy to get that impression by reading the boards. If you just want a great shave then you can keep your razor sharp with very little effort. Get a Tony Miller 2-sided paddle strop, and get him to put his 0.5 micron chrome oxide on one side. Strop it every day on the plain leather side while the sink fills up, and if the razor starts pulling a bit then the next day strop it on the green chrome oxide side instead. This will put more wear on your razor than a full regimen of leather stropping, linen stropping, and honing, but it requires minimal practise, skill, and equipment. And if it means your razor wears out in only 20 years instead of 40 that's probably not a huge deal, especially since it's unlikely that you'll only own one razor that entire time anyway. And you'll have lots of time to learn more advanced maintenance methods later, but when you're just starting out it is critically important that the razor be perfectly sharp day after day. Later on once your shaving technique has gotten better you'll be able to adjust to different levels of sharpness, but there's no point making things difficult in the beginning.

The learning curve for shaving is probably somewhat higher than for a DE, though some people take to it very quickly. You don't have the safety guard, but the blades don't seem so eager to nick or scrape you either. The main thing is to have a very sharp razor (which the chrome oxide will do for you). As with a DE, keep a light touch. Some people recommend a 30 degree angle on the blade, but I personally think it's easier to learn if you keep the blade nearly flat on your face (I've got one vintage razor that has directions printed on the package that says the same thing). You can worry about optimal angles after you've mastered a basic nick-free shave.

When people say they use a straight razor at 30 degrees, I assume they mean 30 degrees with the blade slanting down toward the face at approximately the same orientation a DE blade takes. Is that correct?

[netsurfr]

When people say they use a straight razor at 30 degrees, I assume they mean 30 degrees with the blade slanting down toward the face at approximately the same orientation a DE blade takes. Is that correct?

If I understand you correctly, you have it right. The straight is about the width of the spine (back portion of the razor) above the face when shaving.

[mparker762]

When people say they use a straight razor at 30 degrees, I assume they mean 30 degrees with the blade slanting down toward the face at approximately the same orientation a DE blade takes. Is that correct?

I think that's right. Something that's helpful is that on virtually all razors the spine subtends 15-18 degrees from the edge, so to hold a 25-30 degree shaving angle just make sure to hold the spine a bit more than one spine-width above your face. Personally I think a shallower angle (about a half spine-width) makes it easier to learn, but lots of guys prefer the steeper angle.

You can also use the snowplow-like shaving stroke that is sometimes discussed on the DE forums, and that usually involves shaving with the tip of the blade leading the heel at a 30 degree angle.

[Artytheparty90]

Hey, welcome to B&B. I'm new to str8s myself, but what I CAN say is that the only time I've ever drawn blood is going against the grain, and even so, it's not in the least bit painful. You've probably hit the jackpot on advice though, the people on this forum are the most knowledgeable, generous, and friendliest I've come across, and with their advice, you'll probably be a master of the hone in no time at all. So good luck, and I hope you decide to switch to str8s.