Step-by-step Ever-Ready brush restoration

[Vinny Bobo]

I am posting a step-by-step pictorial brush restoration.

1.) cut the bristles down
2.) drill out old bristles
3.) file scratches (I use my wife's fingernail file.)
4.) polish with Flitz
5.) set new knot in marine epoxy mix (photo forthcoming)

[Vinny Bobo]

continued>>

[Mike R]

That's a neat idea. Where did you get the knot?

Mike

[Vinny Bobo]

I get my knots from www.thegoldennib.com, they are also available at www.blankity-blanks.com. This one will take a 22mm silvertip badger.

[alabamalawyer]

Neat post! I look forward to the last set of pictures and the finished product.

[Mike R]

Thanks. Looks like a new AD. Brush Acquisition & Restoration Disorder.

BARD.

I'll be scouring the antique stores soon.

Mike


That's a neat idea. Where did you get the knot?

Mike

[tvphotog]

Remarkable transformation, especially with the polish. Very nice.

[sol92258]

very timely advice; however, I have the first steps down, already done with one old brush, just needing the info on gluing the knot into a hollow handle :confused:

[blade08]

Very nice!

[Darjeeling Express]

Remarkable transformation, especially with the polish. Very nice.

Beautifully done.

[Masterofsparks]

Remarkable! I think the price of old ebay brushes just went up....

[copperhead]

Remarkable! I think the price of old ebay brushes just went up....

Agree. :smile:

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

2 questions..

1) it appears that the old ever-ready I started working on is a 23 mm. Any ideas if it would be better to open it up a little more to take a 24 mm knot or should I assume a 22mm with 1mm epoxy filler?

2) While cleaning out the old knot, I guess I got over aggressive (or it was already cracked) but I broke off a chunk of the plastic/rubber bottom that the knot rests. With the brush being hollow, will it be the ruination of any knot I now put in this handle when there is nothing for the knot to rest on?

[napoleon]

I used a 20mm knot for a 21mm "hole".


Have you ever thought of restoring and selling some brushes?

[Bostonian 007]

I have a couple of question as well regarding the knots from the sites you have listed. I am thinking of buying a buffalo horn handle and then get the knot and make it myself.

Now my question is that are these knots just as good as say Shavemac or other makers? and the second question is how to determine which knot size to use?

Thanks for the great tutorial :)

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

While cleaning out the old knot, I guess I got over aggressive (or it was already cracked) but I broke off a chunk of the plastic/rubber bottom that the knot rests. With the brush being hollow, will it be the ruination of any knot I now put in this handle when there is nothing for the knot to rest on?

I think I have found a solution, I am going to take a thin metal disk and epoxy it across the bottom first to give the knot something to rest on. This might make the knot not sit as deep, but should give a solid base. Any thoughts on this solution?

[sol92258]

I think I have found a solution, I am going to take a thin metal disk and epoxy it across the bottom first to give the knot something to rest on. This might make the knot not sit as deep, but should give a solid base. Any thoughts on this solution?


lemme know how it works, I've done this to two brushes now, need to figure out a solution myself

[caesar]

That's a great idea. I'm going to have to give this a try myself.

[napoleon]

I have a couple of question as well regarding the knots from the sites you have listed. I am thinking of buying a buffalo horn handle and then get the knot and make it myself.

Now my question is that are these knots just as good as say Shavemac or other makers? and the second question is how to determine which knot size to use?

Thanks for the great tutorial :)

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=52385

[AaronX]

I think I have found a solution, I am going to take a thin metal disk and epoxy it across the bottom first to give the knot something to rest on. This might make the knot not sit as deep, but should give a solid base. Any thoughts on this solution?

Or just fill it with clear epoxy up to the level you want... oh darn I just gave away a secret :lol:

A word of warning: Most/Some Ever-ready brushes that I've seen are hollow. Be CAREFUL. So far the rubbersets are solid and my fuller was solid as well.

I think I've found a solution to redo the lettering but I'm still in the testing phases.

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

I have a rubber set 200. And it is hollow. I didn't occur to me that it was until it was too late. Actually it says set in rubber. Very thin layer of plastic/rubber? under the epoxy for the knot, it has broken apart quite a bit. I still have enough to epoxy the .5mm disk I cut to go across to seat the knot.

However, now after cutting the stinking little .5mm disk and sanding it round enough to drop smoothly in do you mention filling the entire handle with epoxy....

Thanks, I might try that.

Anybody know how deep the 24mm knots at golden nib have to sit in the handle?

[AaronX]

They have a disk of them at the bottom which was about 1/8"- 3/16" thick that needs to sit below the surface at the very least. I'd recess the knot about 1/2" personally.

Yeah sorry I was a little delayed with the epoxy answer...

[sol92258]

wonder if this would work:
- acquire short piece of dowel rod ( or any other cylindrical device) the same diameter as opening in handle/knot
- fill with enough epoxy to fill inside diameter of handle, insert rod desire distance into handle, turn upside down to dry
- once epoxy sets, remove rod to create custom badger knot seat

don't know if it would be possible, but it's a thought

it would save some weight from filling the entire handle up, but then it would be top heavy anyway, so never mind :blush:

[Vinny Bobo]

2 questions..

1) it appears that the old ever-ready I started working on is a 23 mm. Any ideas if it would be better to open it up a little more to take a 24 mm knot or should I assume a 22mm with 1mm epoxy filler?

2) While cleaning out the old knot, I guess I got over aggressive (or it was already cracked) but I broke off a chunk of the plastic/rubber bottom that the knot rests. With the brush being hollow, will it be the ruination of any knot I now put in this handle when there is nothing for the knot to rest on?



1. Blankity Blanks has 22mm knots.

2. unless you punched the entire brush support out, it's not a problem. My first handles had a few holes, but for the most part the support remained. If you lost the whole support, you can stuff paper to the correct height, place a chipboard shelf on top of the paper, and when yu epoxy the knot in, the epoxy will hold the brush to the rim.

[Vinny Bobo]

very timely advice; however, I have the first steps down, already done with one old brush, just needing the info on gluing the knot into a hollow handle :confused:

I use a black marine epoxy that I got at Arrow / Tru Value Hardware. you mix the 2 part of the epoxy together, and place a dab on the end of the knot with a popsicle stick. You can put a little epoxy on the inside perimeter of the handle also. Use good judgement. "less is more." The last thing yo want is to have the epoxy come gushing out oon the handle.

[Vinny Bobo]

I have a couple of question as well regarding the knots from the sites you have listed. I am thinking of buying a buffalo horn handle and then get the knot and make it myself.

Now my question is that are these knots just as good as say Shavemac or other makers? and the second question is how to determine which knot size to use?

Thanks for the great tutorial :)

I have a Shavemac and these are just as good. Great quality and densely packed.

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

Aaron... not upset by the delay with the epoxy answer. I appreciated getting any answer.

I e-mailed Tony directly and he informed me that the knot should sit 3/8 to 1/2 inch in. Which matches what Aaron responded as well. He suggested epoxying cork to fill the hollow area.

I checked the depth of the opening on the Ever-Ready I was working on. It isn't quite 3/8 to start with. If I added the disk, the knot wouldn't sit deep enough. So, I will need to punch out what is left of the bottom. I am not sure where to get a piece of cork that large, but I am thinking that I might just use a piece of dowel to fill the hollow area (concerned about weight) or styrofoam (concerned about longevity). Hmmmmm..... what if I filled it with high density spray foam? I could then go back and drill the knot hole again.. Will the foam be strong enough to last? Will the epoxy break the foam down?

Ugh... At a certain point, it will become cheaper to buy a new brush.

[1969Fatboy]

very cool:)

[Vinny Bobo]

I used a 20mm knot for a 21mm "hole".


Have you ever thought of restoring and selling some brushes?

No because I have no idea what the demand would be. I just restore them for my ow personal collection.

[theperfectstorm]

Outstanding work lads. Excelsior! There's going to be a sudden surge of guys in the "just-out-of-town" antique stores tomorrow looking for good deals on old brushes.

[Vinny Bobo]

Here's a few more that I've done. Note the Fuller brush with white epoxy. This was my first restoration and I learned never to use white marine epoxy.

[AaronX]

I just used some clear epoxy wood coat called glazecoat to fill mine but then again I've got one with a clear lucite handle so if there was cork in it you'd be able to see it.

[sol92258]

I use a black marine epoxy that I got at Arrow / Tru Value Hardware. you mix the 2 part of the epoxy together, and place a dab on the end of the knot with a popsicle stick. You can put a little epoxy on the inside perimeter of the handle also. Use good judgement. "less is more." The last thing yo want is to have the epoxy come gushing out oon the handle.

thanks
my question actually got sort of clarified, I didn't do good job of such; one brush I accidentally drilled out the entire knot "shelf", so my question was how to glue the knot to the hollow handle; now we have several suggestions, so I'll have to ponder on how I want to exactly do it.
I'm cleaning up my second brush, and though I've drilled a couple of holes already through the shelf, I think if I'm careful I can salvage enough to mount the knot without issue
thanks again

[badboris]

I think I've found a solution to redo the lettering but I'm still in the testing phases.

Can we know what the solution is?

[sol92258]

well, I've taken pictures to of my little accomplishment, and have used it twice now....Wow! I got the 20mm silvertip from goldennib, I can't see myself needing anything bigger, the thing nearly covers the entire side of my (shaving area of my) face as I lather, and whips up lather like crazy!
awesome

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0847.jpg?t=1221456984

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0845.jpg?t=1221456981

prior to first use:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0852.jpg?t=1221457037

after 2nd use, and with Tweezerman and Burma Shave for comparison:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0860.jpg?t=1221457098

a little side by side comparison for the restored ever ready and tweezerman, for loft and handle size, I tried to hold the bottom of knot level:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0863.jpg?t=1221457520

and looking down:

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0864.jpg?t=1221457649

(please ignore the toes, wasn't aware they snuck in the picture :biggrin1:)

[napoleon]

(please ignore the toes, wasn't aware they snuck in the picture :biggrin1:)

I think nobody would have noticed the toes if you hadn't mentioned them:lol: Now everybody sees them:biggrin:

[PZBarber]

I am not sure where to get a piece of cork that large

Wine bottle???

Cheers

Mat

[AaronX]

Can we know what the solution is?

yes as soon as I am done testing it I will post it :)
I want to have it completely written up for you gents.

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

Wine bottle???

Cheers

Mat


Actually, I found that I can take 2 corks (each 1" X 5/8") and glue them together to get the length and diameter I need.

The new knot came into today! YAY! Unfortunately, my epoxy and corks are at school. We have flooding damage and are off for the day. Who would have thought we would have had 13" of rain from Ike in Indiana...

[sol92258]

stopped by and looked at a Rubberset brush I know of in a local antique store, has anyone restored one of those? can't tell if it's hollow or not, it's black and red, black part where the knot goes. it's only $6, very tempting...

[AaronX]

stopped by and looked at a Rubberset brush I know of in a local antique store, has anyone restored one of those? can't tell if it's hollow or not, it's black and red, black part where the knot goes. it's only $6, very tempting...

The rubbetsets I've ripped apart have not been hollow.

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

Completed my ever-ready

sorry the pics are low quality. I am working on a sore throat and kept coughing... these are the only pics that were in focus of the dozens I took.

EJ BBB on the left, restored ever-ready 200 with 24 mm knot on the right.

30404
30405

yeah, I got a small amount of epoxy out of the hole; however, it is for my use only.

Used it this morning and it is MUCH softer than the EJ BBB. I am quite happy with it; however, now I have to re-learn all my lather techniques.

[Darjeeling Express]

Is the Flitz polish for plastic and fiberglass available in the New York City area. I went to Lowes and their polish selection was meager!

[Vinny Bobo]

Good Job Jim! An old handle with new bristles makes a very nice brush.



well, I've taken pictures to of my little accomplishment, and have used it twice now....Wow! I got the 20mm silvertip from goldennib, I can't see myself needing anything bigger, the thing nearly covers the entire side of my (shaving area of my) face as I lather, and whips up lather like crazy!
awesome

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0847.jpg?t=1221456984

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0845.jpg?t=1221456981

prior to first use:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0852.jpg?t=1221457037

after 2nd use, and with Tweezerman and Burma Shave for comparison:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0860.jpg?t=1221457098

a little side by side comparison for the restored ever ready and tweezerman, for loft and handle size, I tried to hold the bottom of knot level:
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0863.jpg?t=1221457520

and looking down:

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z68/sol92258/IMG_0864.jpg?t=1221457649

(please ignore the toes, wasn't aware they snuck in the picture :biggrin1:)

[Vinny Bobo]

Is the Flitz polish for plastic and fiberglass available in the New York City area. I went to Lowes and their polish selection was meager!

Sorry, I'm in the Southwest and cannot answer that question. I got mine at Arrow / True Value Hardware. If you have this Hardware retailer in your area, ttry them, it's likely it will be available.

[Darjeeling Express]

Vinny thanks, I found it locally and it worked very nicely.

[huracan]

What an informative post. I'm feeling courageous enough to try and restore a travel brush I have.

[ECOSSE]

Can we know what the solution is?

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_MKM_A_cn_E_30

[badboris]

http://www.golfworks.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_MKM_A_cn_E_30

thankyou. ECOSSE

[ECOSSE]

Hey no problem!

I must admit I'm not sure how easy it is to use the paint pens, I've more experience with the lacquer sticks which are nice. Just rub the sticks over the area, then wipe off excess.

[masonjarjar]

I'm going to have to re-knot this Burt's Bees boar brush eventually because it's shedding and probably won't last too much longer. (even though I re-glued the knot, there's not much you can do about a bad knot)

The handle is very nice, if somewhat heavy, but I think it would work great with a nice badger knot. Does epoxy work ok on ceramic? This a ceramic handle.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=14650

[JarheadSgt]

When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?

[Darjeeling Express]

Imperfect handiwork, but they work great. I am grateful to this thread for instruction and inspiration! Here's the whole story, duplicated, with appologies, on the thread "replacement knot".

I read this thread. Vinny's work is amazing, and I loved the idea of do it yourself restoration of old brushes. "I can do that". Easier said than done. So I went to Golden Nib and got 2 knots in 20mm, one in "Best" and one in "Silver Tip". I picked up a couple of old brushes and selected the 2 I thought were the most beautiful, a Klenzo in black and white (like a cool chess piece), and an Ever Ready, in Green and White. I preferred the Ever Ready and saved the Silver Tip for that one. My goal was to sink the knot as deeply as possible - to approximate a Simpson Chubby or a Rooney Stubby. (Of course this was absurd, but I was determined.) First I carefully masked the brush with, what else, masking tape. I drilled out the knot on the black and white, but got to the underlying "platform" rather quickly. Impossible to sink the knot too deeply. I carefully hand sanded out the knot hole, and sanded off a bit of the knot's glue base, mixed two part clear waterproof epoxy in the knot hole, and sunk the knot. Let dry for 3 days. Perfect in every way. But not a stubby/chubby.

I got Dremel fever, because the sanding did a number (numb and number, like dumb and dumber) on my fingers. But I resisted. I bought a sanding/grinding stone that fit on my regular drill and used that. But alas, it proved to be my down fall. I loved that Green and White Every Ready, but I botched it. The Silver Tip knot, I was going to sink as deeply as possible and to hell with reason. So I drilled out the knot, and the underlying platform. So far so good. But the hole wasn't wide enough for the knot, so I used that grinder attachment, and cracked the handle (fortunately only hair line, its air tight, scientifically tested by me trying to blow up the hollowed handle like a balloon, no leakage), and chipped the lip. (That hurt). I mixed up a ton of 2 part epoxy in the base to 1) Fill the base to eliminate water collecting between shaves [I do hang it upside down], and, 2) To bind the hairs above the knot's original glue base, but below the exposed portion. I let that dry for 5 days in a very warm room. It didn't come out too bad after all. Definitely, off kilter and imperfect aesthetically, but I think its going to be a great little addition. The quality of the knots are excellent (not Rooney standard, believe me, but damn good just the same). The Ever Ready, has real backbone and is very soft. So here are the pics. The Ever Ready Green White is displayed pre-bloom and post. The Black and White Klenzo, just post. Enjoy!

[ECOSSE]

Darjeeling, very nice! I feel like I have caught the bug also with 'upgrading' old brushes. I have a couple of brushes on the bay I'm bidding on and I'm also going to be upgrading a brush that is currently a synthetic to a badger. Will post pics when I can.

[sol92258]

Nice work, Darjeeling

Don't find the Dremel/equivalent other brand rotary tool....very handy for many applications, even great for shining up razors, with proper gentle touch

[texcattlerancher]

Nice work, Darjeeling

Don't find the Dremel/equivalent other brand rotary tool....very handy for many applications, even great for shining up razors, with proper gentle touch

Doesn't Darjeeling take nice pictures?

[ECOSSE]

When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?

Do you mean if the brush ends up having a knot, say 22mm, you could grab a 22mm drill bit and drill out the handle?

If you do, try it on a drill press, but its probably going to be too much torque and the bit will either grab or split the handle. If done with a hand held drill...........well...........i kinda see stitches in your future.

[sol92258]

I'm going to have to re-knot this Burt's Bees boar brush eventually because it's shedding and probably won't last too much longer. (even though I re-glued the knot, there's not much you can do about a bad knot)

The handle is very nice, if somewhat heavy, but I think it would work great with a nice badger knot. Does epoxy work ok on ceramic? This a ceramic handle.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=14650
I wouldn't know why not, but I've never tried


When working with an unknown diameter brush, can you effectively measure the knot after you cut the hair and then use that size drill bit to drill out the old epoxy?


Do you mean if the brush ends up having a knot, say 22mm, you could grab a 22mm drill bit and drill out the handle?

If you do, try it on a drill press, but its probably going to be too much torque and the bit will either grab or split the handle. If done with a hand held drill...........well...........i kinda see stitches in your future.

or you could perform the already mentioned steps, and to fine tune the fit and hole diameter, do what I did and use a rotary tool, such as a Dremel, with a sanding attachment to sand out a little at a time

[Darjeeling Express]

Doesn't Darjeeling take nice pictures?

Tex, I'm so glad you caught this. I was going to pm you to check it out. The Ever Ready, Green and White just finished setting, so it didn't have the Tabac experience, but the Black and White Klenzo, was, dare I say, anointed.

[mulepackin]

I have a couple of old bushes which were my Grandfathers when he was a barber. They are both wooden, but I would love to restore them. The paint issue is what is baffling me now. Not sure how I would handle that. The bristle part now at least "seems" easy. Thanks all for such an educational, enlightening thread.

[RayH]

After reading the thread, I need to try this with my old Surrey boar. Whole plug cam out. Will probably just have to buy the nib and clean the insides of the handle.

[JarheadSgt]

Do you mean if the brush ends up having a knot, say 22mm, you could grab a 22mm drill bit and drill out the handle?

If you do, try it on a drill press, but its probably going to be too much torque and the bit will either grab or split the handle. If done with a hand held drill...........well...........i kinda see stitches in your future.

Yes.

Using a self-centering vise on a drill press. You always start with small pilot holes and increase drill bit diameter gradually.

I do some custom woodworking and I still have all ten, thank you very much.

[ECOSSE]

I do some custom working and I still all ten, thank you very much.

:thumbup:

[JarheadSgt]

For you guys who've already done this I ask you; Why the huge price difference between the Golden Nib and Blankity?

I have my handle ready and checked both places and Blankity is more than twice price. What gives?

[sol92258]

For you guys who've already done this I ask you; Why the huge price difference between the Golden Nib and Blankity?

I have my handle ready and checked both places and Blankity is more than twice price. What gives?

I've wondered before too, and I think I remember reading somewhere the Blankity Blanks knots are hand-made...that may or may not be reliable info, but it would explain the significant difference

[JarheadSgt]

I wonder if anyone has had experience with both. I would assume the Nib's are the same knots that PenWorks uses in the brushes he makes.

Has anyone used one from Blankity? My handle is ready and it's just itchin' for me to sink a knot in it.

[JarheadSgt]

Because the new knot is going into the cheap plastic handle of the "VDH Phoenix restoration project" I went with the less expensive option and ordered a 24mm Silver Tip from PenWorks. It's his only 24mm option.

I'm recording the transformation so I will post pictures when it's done. The only brush I have to compare it with is my Vulfix 2233S.

I'd still like hear from any folks that have any experience with the knots from Blankity Blanks.

Regards,
TonyD

[dixee6]

Sheesh! Everytime you guys mention an Ever-ready I'm lookin' to find a battery!

[Jim]

While a little late, to fill the void in the handle you could grind up a wine cork and mix it into the epoxy to make a paste. Saw dust works as well.
Nice job!

[Darjeeling Express]

While a little late, to fill the void in the handle you could grind up a wine cork and mix it into the epoxy to make a paste. Saw dust works as well.
Nice job!

Now you tell me! Anyway, its holding up after 2 shaves. This is fun.

[sol92258]

While a little late, to fill the void in the handle you could grind up a wine cork and mix it into the epoxy to make a paste. Saw dust works as well.
Nice job!
I must try to remember this bit of wisdom

[JarheadSgt]

Guys, to fill this very small void have you forgotten your hod-rod days? Or, am I in the wrong place to expect anyone here rod'ed and did their own body work?

[brothers]

Hello. I like tools, and I like working on stuff, and fixing almost anything. I want to take an old brush and put new badger in it, for my own use. The part of the process that really puzzles me is the photo of a brush with a huge drill bit sticking down into it. That's not realilstic. Exactly what is happening in that photo? "Drilling out" the old bristles with a great big old drill bit is not practical is it? Drills are for making holes in places where there aren't any holes. If you had a way to hold onto the old brush without being dumb enough to hold onto it with a bare hand, then you'd just drill right through the brushy part, with no resistance at all, then your drill would just keep on drilling, and I see no reason you'd want to do that. What am I missing here? Why would anyone want to drill a big hole down into a nice old brush? I think there must be a lot of undisclosed details. Please help me out, because I want to do it, and I want to do it right, and not destroy a perfectly good old brush. Thanks!

[sol92258]

when the only tool you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail....
whatever method you can use to get the old knot out, use it. some have mentioned a hot water soak to soften the glue holding the knot in, I tried that and it didn't work well. I tried the drill, ended up blowing through the "knot shelf", as I call it, the part of the handle that the knot rests on inside the handle. then I broke out my trusty Black & Decker RTX (like a Dremel), with a cutting bit, looks kinda like a gear, and cut the old knot out of the brush you see in post #35, then used a sanding wheel for the rotary tool to clean it up a bit.
Heck, before I tried the drill bit, I was using a screwdriver to try and pick and pry the old knot out...not really recommended.
what is recommended though, by me at least, is if you decide to use a power tool of some sort, do it outside if possible, those chewed up hairs form a mighty fine dust cloud EVERYWHERE in the vicinity
good luck, post pics!

[ECOSSE]

I had an old Herban Cowboy brush I decided to 'upgrade' with a knot from Tony @ Golden Nib. I used a Makita version of a rotozip to clean out the area from the old knot. Worked like a charm and would have overdone it if I wasn't paying attention. Also wanted to sink in the new knot a little farther as the knot from Golden Nib was quite long, atleast longer than I'm used to, a 22mmx67mm finest that I got down to about 58mm loft. This thing is amazingly floppy compared to what I'm used to, but it still needs to be broken in a bit.

[brothers]

Great info guys. That is kind of what I was thinking about. I'll give it a whirl and hopefully, if it isn't a total mess afterwards, I'll post something. It'll probably take a little while to think my way through it. Do you think a little dab of JB Weld would work to fix the new brush in place, or is there something better?

[sol92258]

Do you think a little dab of JB Weld would work to fix the new brush in place, or is there something better?
epoxy...I've heard of folks using JBW, but I've used plain old clear epoxy, some folks use marine epoxy for extra peace of mind, but I feel reg. epoxy is waterproof enough for me

[Vinny Bobo]

Hello. I like tools, and I like working on stuff, and fixing almost anything. I want to take an old brush and put new badger in it, for my own use. The part of the process that really puzzles me is the photo of a brush with a huge drill bit sticking down into it. That's not realilstic. Exactly what is happening in that photo? "Drilling out" the old bristles with a great big old drill bit is not practical is it? Drills are for making holes in places where there aren't any holes. If you had a way to hold onto the old brush without being dumb enough to hold onto it with a bare hand, then you'd just drill right through the brushy part, with no resistance at all, then your drill would just keep on drilling, and I see no reason you'd want to do that. What am I missing here? Why would anyone want to drill a big hole down into a nice old brush? I think there must be a lot of undisclosed details. Please help me out, because I want to do it, and I want to do it right, and not destroy a perfectly good old brush. Thanks!

I've been doing this for some time and I use the biggest drill bit that will fit in my drill initially to grab large clumps of bristles and yank them out, beginning in the center. A small bit doesn't catch nearly as many bristles as the big bit. I use a smaller bit around the edge because it give me more control and you do not want the bitgrinding the edge of the brush. ( and I hold the brush in my bare hand. No problem. )

[brothers]

OK, that makes sense. After the initial removal, do you switch over to smaller more precise tools or instruments, like a dremel?

[Vinny Bobo]

OK, that makes sense. After the initial removal, do you switch over to smaller more precise tools or instruments, like a dremel?

I have a Dremel but I have gotten good with a regular drill and small bit, so I just continue wiith the drill. The Dremel would probably be easier to manipulate though.

[sol92258]

I have a Dremel but I have gotten good with a regular drill and small bit, so I just continue wiith the drill. The Dremel would probably be easier to manipulate though.
definitely, dremel* is the way to go for cleaning up

*or whatever rotary tool you have, mine's a black and decker rtx

[Kbennett]

I have a Dremel but I have gotten good with a regular drill and small bit, so I just continue wiith the drill. The Dremel would probably be easier to manipulate though.
Have you found that once you start to break up the bristles and epoxy that the remaining pieces come out easier, or have you found you need to drill out all the little pieces right up until the end?

I'm so looking forward to turning the EverReady I've got coming in the mail into a project. :tongue_sm

[Chevyguy]

Have you found that once you start to break up the bristles and epoxy that the remaining pieces come out easier, or have you found you need to drill out all the little pieces right up until the end?

I'm so looking forward to turning the EverReady I've got coming in the mail into a project. :tongue_sm

I ended up using the drill to the very end. The old knot was set in rubber. Start with a small drill and work up to a bigger one, I used 3 different bits. Just ordered a 20mm. best badger knot from the golden nib, I also purchased the faux ivory brush stand. Good luck with your everready my made rite should turn out better than new.

Clayton

[badboris]

I ended up using the drill to the very end. The old knot was set in rubber. Start with a small drill and work up to a bigger one, I used 3 different bits. Just ordered a 20mm. best badger knot from the golden nib, I also purchased the faux ivory brush stand. Good luck with your everready my made rite should turn out better than new.

Clayton

Do you mean your brush was finaly made right?

[Etoyoc_Rebmos]

Now you tell me! Anyway, its holding up after 2 shaves. This is fun.

No kidding, I just read the sawdust and epoxy advice. I could have used that a long time ago. However, my brush is still doing great!

[Chevyguy]

Do you mean your brush was finaly made right?

You are correct sir.:biggrin:

Clayton

[huracan]

Have you found that once you start to break up the bristles and epoxy that the remaining pieces come out easier, or have you found you need to drill out all the little pieces right up until the end?

I'm so looking forward to turning the EverReady I've got coming in the mail into a project. :tongue_sm


I've only done two, (waiting on a knot for the 2nd one). If you are using a Dremel, the round cutter bit, the one that has a ball at the end (the bigger the better) in a medium speed worked great.
After starting in the center, I then worked my way around at a depth that allowed the hairs to just fall off, with a bit of help at times from a narrow flat head screwdriver.
Once I got close to the edge, I got it thin enough so that it can be 'snapped and peeled' with the screwdriver.
You can then dig to desired depth with the cutter with a little more precision.
I got the inside with a fine sandpaper to remove the last of the epoxy.
This method created considerably less hair dust.


http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/114.jpg

[huracan]

Here are some pictures of my restoration project. Thanks to everybody that provided and idea or solution through this thread.

This is what I started with, it used to belong to my dad. I remember wondering what the base unscrewed for and I still do since the inside doesn't look like it could hold anything, not even paste and not make a mess; perhaps an itty-bitty piece of shaving stick. The knot was fixed with hard rubber that went to about 3/4 of the way down.
At some point after I last seen it, the treads broke and where fixed with super glue. I suspect one of my brothers. It came apart when I started cleaning it.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/%5BURL=http://imageshack.us%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6193/p1000089od9.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D%20%5BURL=http://g.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://img218.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/w800.png%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5Dhttp://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6193/p1000089od9.jpg (http://imageshack.us) http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/)

I used one of goldennib knots in 22mm and filled the handle with a mix of epoxy and cork. The handle does not unscrew anymore, but all parts went back in again. I have yet to use it since I just finished it, besides I'm going to show it to my dad and see if he wants it back. :w00t:

Here is the almost-final result, I still need to touch up and detail

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/373/p1000107gi9.jpg (http://imageshack.us) http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/p1000107gi9.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img152/p1000107gi9.jpg/1/)

http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/8619/p1000108hf2.jpg (http://imageshack.us) http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/p1000108hf2.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img181/p1000108hf2.jpg/1/)
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/%5Burl=http://imageshack.us%5D%5Bimg=http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/6193/p1000089od9.jpg%5D%5B/url%5D%20%5Burl=http://g.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/%5D%5Bimg=http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/p1000089od9.jpg/1/w800.png%5D%5B/url%5D

[Vinny Bobo]

good job, Luis!

[sol92258]

I've only done two, (waiting on a knot for the 2nd one). If you are using a Dremel, the round cutter bit, the one that has a ball at the end (the bigger the better) in a medium speed worked great.
After starting in the center, I then worked my way around at a depth that allowed the hairs to just fall off, with a bit of help at times from a narrow flat head screwdriver.
Once I got close to the edge, I got it thin enough so that it can be 'snapped and peeled' with the screwdriver.
You can then dig to desired depth with the cutter with a little more precision.
I got the inside with a fine sandpaper to remove the last of the epoxy.
This method created considerably less hair dust.


http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/114.jpg

that's the tool you need right there...works beautifully
and nice work, btw

[Darjeeling Express]

Huracan - Well done. Beautiful job.

[huracan]

Thanks guys, what can I say? All of yous inspired me with your pictures.

Vinny Bobo, thanks for starting this thread.

[Clockwork John]

Awesome thread! I recently scored several vintage brushes on the 'bay... Can't wait to get to work on them!

[Vinny Bobo]

Awesome thread! I recently scored several vintage brushes on the 'bay... Can't wait to get to work on them!

Here's a few more to further inspire you:

[Trudo1]

Vinny Bobo, you are the man !!! Your "old school" brush handles are very sweet, to say the least. So much info on vintage razors has made me a little bit numb.......

I just use my pre vulfix D3 and don't even think about it, I love the brush but I love american made, period. So I assume Ever Ready was the cream of the crop in the
20's - 50's. Your polishing of the bakelite handles is unreal. The color is uniform to the
core of the handle, you can file and polish without color change (to some extent) I love bakelite. What other brands where quality from that era ? I just love the Ever Ready
etched on the front. What should I avoid as far as handles ?

I live in Southern California, you guy's must check out my old barber shop, they are really developing a name for themselves. "Hawleywood's Barber Shop" Donnie Hawley wood is the owner, this is the real deal. Men Only Sign, Pabst Blue Ribbon (on tap)
Str8 shave's. Young 40's throw back hipsters, you have to look at the site !!!!

Any tip's on finding handles, good brands, #'s etc and polishing technique's would be cool !!!

Buy American.....

[Vinny Bobo]

Vinny Bobo, you are the man !!! Your "old school" brush handles are very sweet, to say the least. So much info on vintage razors has made me a little bit numb.......

I just use my pre vulfix D3 and don't even think about it, I love the brush but I love american made, period. So I assume Ever Ready was the cream of the crop in the
20's - 50's. Your polishing of the bakelite handles is unreal. The color is uniform to the
core of the handle, you can file and polish without color change (to some extent) I love bakelite. What other brands where quality from that era ? I just love the Ever Ready
etched on the front. What should I avoid as far as handles ?

I live in Southern California, you guy's must check out my old barber shop, they are really developing a name for themselves. "Hawleywood's Barber Shop" Donnie Hawley wood is the owner, this is the real deal. Men Only Sign, Pabst Blue Ribbon (on tap)
Str8 shave's. Young 40's throw back hipsters, you have to look at the site !!!!

Any tip's on finding handles, good brands, #'s etc and polishing technique's would be cool !!!

Buy American.....

Ebay is the best source I've found and Ever-Ready, Fuller, Rubberset, Made Rite are the brands to get. Solid Lucite handles are best. I really like aluminum handles too. I haven't had much luck at the Antique stores around Orange and when I do find something, it's over priced. Check out Ebay my friend.

I checked out Hawleywood's and will definitely go to the Costa Mesa location after Christmas for a haircut and a shave. Thanks for the tip, Pal !!

[brothers]

It's a curious phenomenon, everybody, almost, who sells an old brush on ebay thinks they have to have an old mug to go with it. It increases the shipping, and then to get the brush you want, if you really want it, you've got to deal with another piece of somebody's castoff old spice mug.

[Confilo]

Well done! got to get myself a round bit

[Vinny Bobo]

It's a curious phenomenon, everybody, almost, who sells an old brush on ebay thinks they have to have an old mug to go with it. It increases the shipping, and then to get the brush you want, if you really want it, you've got to deal with another piece of somebody's castoff old spice mug.

So right ! I've got a cabinet full of mugs that I'm stuck with. I use them to store the soap. Now when I'm ready to use a different soap, it's ready to go.

[brothers]

Well done! got to get myself a round bit


Yes, you do! I am working on 4 old brushes. Thankfully, somewhere up above in the thread is a photo of the bit. I took it with me to a store called WoodCraft who have everything imaginable, and thankfully, they found it. I got a pack of 2 bits for $10. On mine, the little ball is about the size of a BB. I could not have done the job without it. It is absolutely perfect for this. Anything bigger would be too big.

Being very sharp and made of tungsten carbide, those bad boys are made for cutting really hard stuff, so I quickly learned while redoing my brushes, I need little pressure, and a relatively low speed of the drill. If I clamp my hand drill in my bench vice and control the speed with my left hand, I can hold the brush handle in my right hand, working it around as needed, keeping my eye on it at all times, and slowly and with very little pressure, the round bit will cut through the remaining bristles and the underlying glue, etc., with ease.

That is one very effective tool. The hardest part of this job, so far, is that in some brushes with plastic/synthetic bristles, the knot is very hard to penetrate with the drill, which is a necessary step, for me anyway, to get a hole or some holes down into the lower part, so the round cutter bit can get down in there and work on the part that needs to be taken out, to open up the hole for the new knot.

Anyway, after my learning curve and only 2 days of drilling, I have my 4 brushes cleaned out and I'm in the process of planning what grades and sizes of knots to buy.

[Gafer]

I have an old Peerless brush with nylon bristles that I'd like to replace with one of the newer synthetic knots. Something like what comes in the Body Shop brush. Does anyone know of a source for these? I suppose for $11 I could buy another Body Shop brush and attempt to remove the knot from it. That would probably take a lot of effort though. Any suggestions?

[Mikeyk]

I just won an Ever Ready brush similar to the one in Vinny Bobo's photo. Any have some "precise" advice (ie for a moron like me) on the size drill bit to use and the manner used in doing the drilling? I'm all thumbs but am committed to giving it a shot.

Thanks much, Mike

[Gafer]

http://www.widgetsupply.com/dremel/114.jpg

While I haven't tried this, yet. I think the above bit with a Dremel tool is the better way to go instead of a drill bit. As someone mentioned earlier, a drill bit is for making holes not carving. This looks like the best approach to me. One I will be trying on a Peerless handle I got for Christmas.

[Kbennett]

My EverReady showed up today and I've already cut down the bristles and taken a couple drill bits to the knot. Got a nice pile of bristles and dust and have created a nice hole in the middle of the knot for the dremel bit. Now I just need to hit up Home Depot tomorrow to get the dremel bit and some fine sandpaper and I should be able to complete stage one of the restoration this weekend.

I'm pumped. :w00t:

[brothers]

I was able to locate one of the cutting tools shown in the above photo from a store called WoodCraft. I got two of them in a package for $10. They weren't exactly flying off the shelves. The guy knew exactly what I was looking for when I described it to him. Anyway it works great.

I put my drill into the bench vice so it is totally stable, allowing me to control the speed of the drill with my left hand while moving the brush handle around with my right. The bits are tungsten carbide and actually as sharp as anything.

You're only working with plastic and glue, so if you go too fast or apply too much pressure, you can do more harm than good. It is a fantastic tool that works well at a low drill speed. This helps me to control the movement of the brush handle better, taking just a smidgen off here and there, slowly moving toward getting it just right.

It takes some concentration because if the cutting bit gets too fast or jumps out of the hole, it'll cut your skin or do some damage to the part of the brush you don't want to get all scarred up. Skin and plastic are like butter to this sharp little cutting bit.

I've received my new badger knots from the Golden Nib, and I've bought the epoxy I'm going to use. This is going to be a good weekend for me to spend on this project.

[riooso]

2 questions..

1) it appears that the old ever-ready I started working on is a 23 mm. Any ideas if it would be better to open it up a little more to take a 24 mm knot or should I assume a 22mm with 1mm epoxy filler?

2) While cleaning out the old knot, I guess I got over aggressive (or it was already cracked) but I broke off a chunk of the plastic/rubber bottom that the knot rests. With the brush being hollow, will it be the ruination of any knot I now put in this handle when there is nothing for the knot to rest on?


I did the same thing. I hogged out the handle with the Dremmel sanding drum so that I could get my 24mm knot in. I think the handle originally only had a 22mm knot in it originally. When I put the knot in I first put a bolt in the bottom to add heft. After that dried I put a bunch of epoxy in the handle then some on the knot then installed the knot and then turned the brush upside down to dry. That sealed the knot in and there is a bunch of epoxy around the bottom of the knot. You have to have the knot tight in the base, of course, so that none of the epoxy can get by the base of the knot.

This is not going to be good for the SBAD! This is a lot of fun and the end product is great! Any word on the difference in the knots mentioned at the beginning of this thread?


Richard

[baggiez]

Hey brothers

I’m probably at the same point with my brush restoration which I hope to finish this weekend. I’ve nearly finished drilling out all the bristles and glue from an old Vulfix Mayfair and my replacement 20mm silvertip knot has arrived from Golden Nib.:smile:

I will now get some clear marine epoxy from the hardware store and go for it! Hopefully I can post some before and after pictures too – fingers crossed.

PS My wife thinks I’m mad as I already have two other brushes – but they don’t get it do they?

[brothers]

I've got to get one of the dremel sanding drums even though I don't use a dremel, I just use my drill. I've got to slightly enlarge the openings on a couple of my old brushes too. Then I've got to fill and possibly add some weight to minetoo, since they're basically hollow.

[riooso]

Ok. I hope you guys don't mind. The Red one is the one that I put a 24mm knot in. Comparing against my first brush the Vulfix 2234S, the black one is a C&E B&B silvertip, the new red EverReady with a 24mm Golden Nib extra stuffing,new not used, and the one that I will compare all brushes to Savile Row SR3824.

The 3824 is a 24mm knot as is the EverReady. No comparison the SR wins hands down however I think for the $30 invested I have a better brush than the C&E, which I paid $80 used if I remember correctly.

I put some weight and a lot of Epoxy in the EverReady base and it "feels" like a solid brush. The center of gravity along the brush is center of the large curved section, which is perfect.

I will shave with it tommorrow and see how much it blooms. The next step for me is to buy the more expesive Blankity Blanks if there is a difference in the knots.

later,
Richard

[huracan]

Ok. I hope you guys don't mind. The Red one is the one that I put a 24mm knot in. Comparing against my first brush the Vulfix 2234S, the black one is a C&E B&B silvertip, the new red EverReady with a 24mm Golden Nib extra stuffing,new not used, and the one that I will compare all brushes to Savile Row SR3824.

The 3824 is a 24mm knot as is the EverReady. No comparison the SR wins hands down however I think for the $30 invested I have a better brush than the C&E, which I paid $80 used if I remember correctly.

I put some weight and a lot of Epoxy in the EverReady base and it "feels" like a solid brush. The center of gravity along the brush is center of the large curved section, which is perfect.

I will shave with it tommorrow and see how much it blooms. The next step for me is to buy the more expesive Blankity Blanks if there is a difference in the knots.

later,
Richard


Mind that you posted, not at all. Your EverReady came out looking good

[Kbennett]

If there is one piece of advice I can give to anyone restoring an old brush, it would be this: Wrap the upper half of the brush is a couple layers of blue painting tape. Inevitably, you will rub an edge with a tool by accident and the tape will protect the delicate plastic.

Just finished up hollowing out a near perfect green and black EverReady 150. It would have been a perfect EverReady 150, but a dremel bit slipped and nicked the finish just above the words. I'm hoping a laquer stick will fill in the nick*, but I'm not sure. Otherwise, I'm pumped to get a knot in this guy.

*If anyone has any suggestions on a better fix, I'd love to hear them.

[Trudo1]

That's always the way it happens !! Sucks...

Where do you guys find those "black and green, black and yellow E-R 200's ?
Mine is Black and Red, The Vinny Bobo Tribute brush. (check my thread)

[Kbennett]

That's always the way it happens !! Sucks...

Where do you guys find those "black and green, black and yellow E-R 200's ?
Mine is Black and Red, The Vinny Bobo Tribute brush. (check my thread)
I got my 150 from the BST forum. A NOS for $10. :biggrin:

[Gafer]

If there is one piece of advice I can give to anyone restoring an old brush, it would be this: Wrap the upper half of the brush is a couple layers of blue painting tape. Inevitably, you will rub an edge with a tool by accident and the tape will protect the delicate plastic.

Damn I wish I'd read this before I plowed into my Peerless and nicked the top just as I was finishing. I'm working on polishing it out.

That said it looks like my Peerless will only let me set the knot 1/4" from the top of the hole. Is this going to be enough for one of the knots from Golden Nib? I'm looking at the 18mm Silver tip.

[Darjeeling Express]

I will shave with it tommorrow and see how much it blooms. The next step for me is to buy the more expesive Blankity Blanks if there is a difference in the knots.
Richard

Outstanding work. Looking forward to your comparison with the Blankity Blanks.

[riooso]

Well I have shaved a couple of days with it and the brush did very well. We will see if the shedding will stop. It has slowed to almost nothing. The brush is a bit "screetchy" but I have been wanting that for a while and it is that way because you can see more hairs have been clipped than the Savile Row. Over all it is a very good brush for less than $30 and would still rate it over the B&B because of density and backbone. I will see what the Blakity Blanks knot is like, I would bet it is a lot higher quality and I think I will sink the knot down a little more this time. I have my eye on a brush on E-Bay ....... and no not even a hint, you pirates will snipe it for sure!:wink:

Thanks for the great hints,
Richard

[brothers]

Here are the first two of my rebristled vintage brushes. The one on the right, the Made Rite, is big and heavy, and it is an outstanding brush. Plus, I just love the look of it. It's one I intend to keep, and use it right along with my other brushes. I hogged the hole out to 22 so I could use the finest knot that I purchased from Tony at the Golden Nib. I shaved with it this morning so I could start the breaking-in process as soon as possible.

The bottom section was filled with what looks like plaster when new, and the black upper portion was, of course, hollow. I was able to cut a 5/8" long piece off of a rigid pvc water line and sit it down inside the black part, and used it to sit the knot on so it would dry at the proper height. I filled the entire black part with clear plastic epoxy, set the knot, and let it dry. So it's now basically solid from top to bottom, and like I said, it's got some heft.

The brush on the left is a Made Rite 100, and it's got a 20mm best knot in it. The upper chamber was completely filled with a plastic substance from new, but the lower portion of the handle is evidently hollow. All I had to do was use the cutter bit fitted to my hand drill and clamped in my bench vise to carve out the properly sized chamber for the glue and the knot to sit down in. It's got a decent amount of weight, and feels good in your hand. I'm going to give it to my son-in-law who's been using a boar brush for a couple of years, so now he'll be introduced to the badger brush experience too.

I've put the Kent BK4 silvertip between the two new/old brushes for scale. You can see how tall the Made Rite is, and the size of the new knot. I mug-lathered this morning with it, and it behaved like an old pro. The finest knot seems like the perfect knot for this big brush. It has great flow, it's got some backbone to it, and it produced enormous volumes of lather, more than enough for as many passes as I wanted.

I started with 600 grit and went up to 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper to shine up the rough edges of the holes in 2 stages, and I did use water while sanding them carefully, and then I polished them with Flitz plastic polish, before I masked them off carefully before messing around with the epoxy. I also followed someone's advice above and put a rubber band around the bristles and masked the bristles off so as to keep the epoxy off as best as I could. I tried to remember to take the tape off just as soon as I could when the epoxy had hardened sufficiently, so as to avoid it being very difficult or impossible to get off later, if any of the epoxy happened to find it's way onto the tape.

[mketz747]

Fantastic. That looks like something I'd like to try. Thanks for the pics.

[Darjeeling Express]

Brothers, those 2 are beauties.

[riooso]

Very nice! How do they work?


R

[brothers]

Very nice! How do they work?


R

Thanks. The black and white one is excellent, as mentioned. The smaller one, I'm giving it away, so I'll let the soon-to-be new owner break it in.

[Kbennett]

Question for my fellow brush restoration fans: how much space do you find is typically left around the base of a new knot when inserting it into the hollowed out base?

Either there is supposed to be some space left or I mismeasured. :redface:

I'm inclined to think it is the latter.

[prophetic_joe]

The one I have restored so far fit nice and snug, I could be wrong though and there is supposed to be space. My being wrong has happened before.

[Chevyguy]

Question for my fellow brush restoration fans: how much space do you find is typically left around the base of a new knot when inserting it into the hollowed out base?

Either there is supposed to be some space left or I mismeasured. :redface:

I'm inclined to think it is the latter.


You want it to be snug, that way it's centered in the handle. If it's not too loose fitting and you can center it once you set it in epoxy, it should be fine.

Clayton

[Kbennett]

You want it to be snug, that way it's centered in the handle. If it's not too loose fitting and you can center it once you set it in epoxy, it should be fine.

Clayton
I'll have to measure it again, but there could be as much as a full mm on each side, which would suggest to me that I would be better off ordering a 22mm knot at this time. We'll see.

[Chevyguy]

I'll have to measure it again, but there could be as much as a full mm on each side, which would suggest to me that I would be better off ordering a 22mm knot at this time. We'll see.

I would go with the bigger knot. Had the same problem with mine. Had to enlargen the handle just a little so the 22mm. would fit nice and snug. Use a good marine epoxy. I used loctite fifty minute marine epoxy. I let mine set up for three day's before I got it wet.

Clayton

[Kbennett]

I would go with the bigger knot. Had the same problem with mine. Had to enlargen the handle just a little so the 22mm. would fit nice and snug. Use a good marine epoxy. I used loctite fifty minute marine epoxy. I let mine set up for three day's before I got it wet.

Clayton
Got the marine epoxy, sounds like I need to put another order in at TGN.

[huracan]

I'll have to measure it again, but there could be as much as a full mm on each side, which would suggest to me that I would be better off ordering a 22mm knot at this time. We'll see.


How does the knot sit now in depth? the gap you mention sounds fine as long as the plug is sitting on the inside of the handle squarely. If it's not, you need to fill it first to the needed level. I used a mix of epoxy and fine cork shavings; to mark the depth, stain the plug with something powdery, like colored chalk or carbon, sink the plug to where you want it and it should mark the level on the inside of your handle, once you fill it let it dry before continuing to setting your badger hair.

[Kbennett]

How does the knot sit now in depth? the gap you mention sounds fine as long as the plug is sitting on the inside of the handle squarely. If it's not, you need to fill it first to the needed level. I used a mix of epoxy and fine cork shavings; to mark the depth, stain the plug with something powdery, like colored chalk or carbon, sink the plug to where you want it and it should mark the level on the inside of your handle, once you fill it let it dry before continuing to setting your badger hair.
It sits JUST at the edge of the handle pretty squarely. To sink it any lower I would have to carve the shelf out and then fill the handle to the desired level. I have considered that, but haven't decided if I want to go that direction.

[prophetic_joe]

Not sure if it was mentioned but I found out today that the hair seems to cut much easier when at least slightly wet.

[prophetic_joe]

And here are the new restores.

Old Spice, Tall Ever Ready, Cream Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6486.jpg

Made Rite, Lucite No Name, Black and Clear Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6487.jpg

The Old Spice brush is a 24mm Finest Badger knot the rest are 20mm Silver Tip with the exception of the Black and Clear which is 24mm. Some of these are for sale in the BST.

[huracan]

Very nice. Is the 24 finest from blankety-blanks?
I did mine in 22 finest and it is nice with everything I throw at it.



And here are the new restores.

Old Spice, Tall Ever Ready, Cream Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6486.jpg

Made Rite, Lucite No Name, Black and Clear Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6487.jpg

The Old Spice brush is a 24mm Finest Badger knot the rest are 20mm Silver Tip with the exception of the Black and Clear which is 24mm. Some of these are for sale in the BST.

[prophetic_joe]

Very nice. Is the 24 finest from blankety-blanks?
I did mine in 22 finest and it is nice with everything I throw at it.

All the knots are from thegoldennib I haven't got the chance to try it yet though. Still needs a little more curing time.

[jfd]

P-joe, great looking brushes. I love the butterscotch and that old spice. Cant wait to see the next offerings.

Jerry

[Vinny Bobo]

NICE Joe!


And here are the new restores.

Old Spice, Tall Ever Ready, Cream Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6486.jpg

Made Rite, Lucite No Name, Black and Clear Ever Ready
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f393/prophetic_joe/IMG_6487.jpg

The Old Spice brush is a 24mm Finest Badger knot the rest are 20mm Silver Tip with the exception of the Black and Clear which is 24mm. Some of these are for sale in the BST.

[AggieChemDoc]

This thread has inspired me. I found a very nice old boar brush at an antique store for $8... a bit on the high side, I thought, but I liked the handle. I took out the boar hair with pliers. It all pulled right out and I didn't have to drill. This left the original glue on the shelf, and I found the shelf was barely 1/4" below the top of the brush... not enough to support the badger knot. I drilled through it and then broke it out with a screwdriver and some carefully applied, highly localized force. I ran a piece of sandpaper around the inside to smooth it up a bit. I will fill the inside with epoxy leaving myself about 1/2" to sink the knot in.

I measured my opening at 20.6 mm so I ordered a 20 mm silvertip from goldennib. Should be here any day. This afternoon i will look for epoxy and flitz. I'll be sure to post pictures at the completion of the project.

Thanks to the OP and the other adventurous souls for this thread.

[brothers]

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[AggieChemDoc]

OK, guys, I finished my restoration on Friday, and the brush epoxy has been curing over the weekend. I just wet the brush for the first time and took some pics. Boy! Is silvertip soft!

I have pictured the "new" oldtique brush next to my Medium Edwin Jagger Best Badger.

It is higher in loft, but a bit smaller in diameter. It is on the right in both pics.

I think it has just the right blend of old timey charm and newfangled performance. Can't wait to shave with it tonight.

Let me know what you think. :w00t:

[AggieChemDoc]

Forgot to mention that is the 20 mm knot from goldennib.

[brothers]

That's a handsome brush.

[huracan]

My sentiments exactly about these resto-jobs. Mine performs super well and it has been a great addition to my small (as in few) brush rotation. Very nice brush yours Doc.


OK, guys, I finished my restoration on Friday, and the brush epoxy has been curing over the weekend. I just wet the brush for the first time and took some pics. Boy! Is silvertip soft!

I have pictured the "new" oldtique brush next to my Medium Edwin Jagger Best Badger.

It is higher in loft, but a bit smaller in diameter. It is on the right in both pics.

I think it has just the right blend of old timey charm and newfangled performance. Can't wait to shave with it tonight.

Let me know what you think. :w00t:

[Gafer]

Not to hijack this thread but it inspired me to try a restoration of my own. Why not try using a synthetic brush as a "donor" brush to restore an old Peerless nylon brush? Those old nylon brushes are worthless to try to lather with.

Here's the before pic. The Peerless is to the right of my C&E BB for comparison. The "donor" brush is on the left in the back.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16222

Using a Dremmel I cut out the old bristles from the Peerless. Then, using a carving tip on the Dremmel I carved out the entire knot from the donor brush. Glued it in with epoxy and viola!
http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16223

I would have liked to have set the knot a little deeper since I ended up with a loft of about 2-1/4 inches but this would have required cutting out the platform in the Peerless. Overall, I like it. It performs a little better than the original donor brush given the longer loft. It makes a nice light weight, fast drying travel brush.

[meglad]

I can't wait to do this!! I have seen several brushes I wanted but wasn't aware that you can restore them!! I will buy a couple and try restoration!!:thumbup1:

[Gafer]

I can't wait to do this!! I have seen several brushes I wanted but wasn't aware that you can restore them!! I will buy a couple and try restoration!!:thumbup1:

Go for it! It's not exactly "easy" but then again, if I can do it anyone can. I'm almost completely inept with tools. I scratched the heck out of the handle of my Peerless cutting out the old head. It took a lot of work to get the scratch out. Plastic is tough to polish. If you use a Dremmel you can end up melting the plastic from the friction. Like I said, I'm inept with tools. I was finally able to buff out the scratch using automotive polish.

[Darjeeling Express]

OK, guys, I finished my restoration on Friday, and the brush epoxy has been curing over the weekend. I just wet the brush for the first time and took some pics. Boy! Is silvertip soft!

I have pictured the "new" oldtique brush next to my Medium Edwin Jagger Best Badger.

It is higher in loft, but a bit smaller in diameter. It is on the right in both pics.

I think it has just the right blend of old timey charm and newfangled performance. Can't wait to shave with it tonight.

Let me know what you think. :w00t:
Outstanding!

[lovetheleaf]

This thread has me very interested in trying this out myself. Thanks for the info!
Chris

[Vinny Bobo]

Gafer,

Fantastic! Now you've opened up a whole new territory.




Not to hijack this thread but it inspired me to try a restoration of my own. Why not try using a synthetic brush as a "donor" brush to restore an old Peerless nylon brush? Those old nylon brushes are worthless to try to lather with.

Here's the before pic. The Peerless is to the right of my C&E BB for comparison. The "donor" brush is on the left in the back.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16222

Using a Dremmel I cut out the old bristles from the Peerless. Then, using a carving tip on the Dremmel I carved out the entire knot from the donor brush. Glued it in with epoxy and viola!
http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16223

I would have liked to have set the knot a little deeper since I ended up with a loft of about 2-1/4 inches but this would have required cutting out the platform in the Peerless. Overall, I like it. It performs a little better than the original donor brush given the longer loft. It makes a nice light weight, fast drying travel brush.

[SilkySmooth]

Not to hijack this thread but it inspired me to try a restoration of my own. Why not try using a synthetic brush as a "donor" brush to restore an old Peerless nylon brush? Those old nylon brushes are worthless to try to lather with.

Here's the before pic. The Peerless is to the right of my C&E BB for comparison. The "donor" brush is on the left in the back.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16222

Using a Dremmel I cut out the old bristles from the Peerless. Then, using a carving tip on the Dremmel I carved out the entire knot from the donor brush. Glued it in with epoxy and viola!
http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16223

I would have liked to have set the knot a little deeper since I ended up with a loft of about 2-1/4 inches but this would have required cutting out the platform in the Peerless. Overall, I like it. It performs a little better than the original donor brush given the longer loft. It makes a nice light weight, fast drying travel brush.

That's just awesome!!!

[SavantStrike]

Not to hijack this thread but it inspired me to try a restoration of my own. Why not try using a synthetic brush as a "donor" brush to restore an old Peerless nylon brush? Those old nylon brushes are worthless to try to lather with.

Here's the before pic. The Peerless is to the right of my C&E BB for comparison. The "donor" brush is on the left in the back.

http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16222

Using a Dremmel I cut out the old bristles from the Peerless. Then, using a carving tip on the Dremmel I carved out the entire knot from the donor brush. Glued it in with epoxy and viola!
http://badgerandblade.com/gallery/displayimage.php?imageid=16223

I would have liked to have set the knot a little deeper since I ended up with a loft of about 2-1/4 inches but this would have required cutting out the platform in the Peerless. Overall, I like it. It performs a little better than the original donor brush given the longer loft. It makes a nice light weight, fast drying travel brush.

How about some action shots?

[Gafer]

How about some action shots?

Thanks for all the positive feedback on this.

I knew when I was doing this project someone was going to ask me some day for photos. However, I was so anxious I didn't take the time to make any photographs as the work progressed. For that act of selfishness I must apologize. Perhaps a little more description.

Removing the bristles from the old Peerless brush is like any other brush. This tread and a few others have done a pretty good job of describing how to do that so I won't go over that.

Now, removing the knot from a Body Shop Synthetic brush requires a different approach. You need to be to remove the knot intact. I put the base of the brush in a vise. You're going to toss what's left of the handle so clamp it down tight. I then used a Dremmel with a little round carving tip (same one I used to carve out the bristles in the old handle) and began to just slowly carve away at the wood right at the knot and about an inch below. You just slowly carve it down. Around and around the brush. I suppose if you like to whittle this would be a good place to put those skills to work. I'm lazy. I use power tools. Dremmel to the rescue. When you start carving into the epoxy the holds the knot you will know by the smell and the drag on the Dremmel. You can also stop every so often and check your progress. The demarcation between wood handle and epoxy knot is pretty easy to see. The base of the knot is about an inch below the top of the opening in the handle. I managed to carve down about a 1/4" below the knot and then cut the knot off with a hacksaw. The knot with all it's epoxy/resin was intact. Overall this took me about 30 minutes but I worked very slowly and deliberately. This is a very dusty operation. I suggest a dust mask and eye protection.

I then had to use the Dremmel to carve down the resin on the knot a little so that it would fit in the Peerless handle. I then just had to glue it into the handle with some waterproof epoxy as has been described around here. I let it set for a few days. If you keep some of the left over mixed up epoxy out where you can get at it you can test it to determine when it's safe to use the brush. Epoxies really do take several days to fully cure.

Hope this helps for those willing to give it a try. First, use the Body Shop Synthetic brush for a few days to see if you'll even like this brush. It's one of those either you love it or hate it. I personally love it but have to use a totally different technique to lather with it. That's for another post.

[heirkb]

so i have a few basic questions i was hoping you guys could answer for me.

first, if i do drill out the base in a hollow handle, can i fill it up with clear epoxy as someone said earlier in the thread as a way of building a new base?

second, if i want my brush to have a relatively low loft height so that it does not spread out too much on my face, can i simply make the new base lower down in the handle or do i need a knot that actually has a small loft?

and third, where exactly do i put the epoxy? only on the plastic part of the knot? should i avoid having the epoxy touch the hairs that are in the handle? for example, someone suggested coating the inner rim of the handle with some epoxy. this would lead to the epoxy coming into contact with the hair as well as the plastic that holds the knot together. is that ok? actually, is it better or worse in terms of brush and knot longevity?

thanks a lot to all those who help out:001_smile

[Gafer]

so i have a few basic questions i was hoping you guys could answer for me.

first, if i do drill out the base in a hollow handle, can i fill it up with clear epoxy as someone said earlier in the thread as a way of building a new base?

second, if i want my brush to have a relatively low loft height so that it does not spread out too much on my face, can i simply make the new base lower down in the handle or do i need a knot that actually has a small loft?

and third, where exactly do i put the epoxy? only on the plastic part of the knot? should i avoid having the epoxy touch the hairs that are in the handle? for example, someone suggested coating the inner rim of the handle with some epoxy. this would lead to the epoxy coming into contact with the hair as well as the plastic that holds the knot together. is that ok? actually, is it better or worse in terms of brush and knot longevity?

thanks a lot to all those who help out:001_smile

I'll take a stab at this but others more experienced may disagree.

You can fill the handle with epoxy but it might make sense to use a binder/filler. Some have suggested cork. Epoxy does generate quite a bit of heat so reducing the total volume of epoxy might be worth while. I can't say for sure. My concern would be melting/distorting a thin plastic handle from the heat - yes, epoxy can get that hot in a large enough volume in a confined space like the void in a handle.

You could set the knot deeper in the handle to create a lower loft brush however, brushes usually have a "shelf" built in to them where the knot sits. You really don't want to drill out the shelf and then have to rebuild it back up but that's up to you.

In setting the knot deeper it is desirable to keep the epoxy off the hair but it won't really hurt the brush in terms of longevity. Some brush manufacturers actually use a small band of epoxy at the base of the brush to reduce the loft and prevent the knot from blooming out too wide. Some have called this an epoxy plug I believe. Regardless, epoxy on the hair won't hurt the brush - it just further bonds the knot to the handle but it may make an unsightly appearance if there's too much epoxy exposed.

Hopefully someone else will chime in here with additional advice.

[heirkb]

mmm thanks a lot.
any other help is also appreciated.
i have one other question as well. is it possible to repaint a brush handle? what paint would i need/would i need to prepare the handle (i.e. sand it or prime it in some way)?
i just got this brush and wanted to repaint it cause im not too fond of the brown and purple combo but love the shape.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=400037742121

[heirkb]

anyone come up with anything on painting these types of handles? thanks again

[brothers]

I'll take a stab at this but others more experienced may disagree.

You can fill the handle with epoxy but it might make sense to use a binder/filler. Some have suggested cork. Epoxy does generate quite a bit of heat so reducing the total volume of epoxy might be worth while. I can't say for sure. My concern would be melting/distorting a thin plastic handle from the heat - yes, epoxy can get that hot in a large enough volume in a confined space like the void in a handle.

You could set the knot deeper in the handle to create a lower loft brush however, brushes usually have a "shelf" built in to them where the knot sits. You really don't want to drill out the shelf and then have to rebuild it back up but that's up to you.

In setting the knot deeper it is desirable to keep the epoxy off the hair but it won't really hurt the brush in terms of longevity. Some brush manufacturers actually use a small band of epoxy at the base of the brush to reduce the loft and prevent the knot from blooming out too wide. Some have called this an epoxy plug I believe. Regardless, epoxy on the hair won't hurt the brush - it just further bonds the knot to the handle but it may make an unsightly appearance if there's too much epoxy exposed.

Hopefully someone else will chime in here with additional advice.

YMMV depending on your skill and attention to detail, but here are a couple of things that've worked ok for me. We're doing some resto work here on an old car that my son-in-law recently purchased, and have access to some stuff that has helped my as I redo some old brushes.

It's been my experience that epoxy never gets hot enough to melt plastic, when it hardens. Since we're using epoxy in our brushes here, I've never seen or heard of an actual documented case of one suffering any heat-related damage from epoxy.

I don't like the fact that the old brushes are usually just empty plastic, and I like my brushes to be hefty, like a new big-name brush you might purchase for $100 and on up. So if I get one that isn't already completely solid inside, then I make it that way. My first one was hollow in the upper chamber, where the knot goes, so I did fill it completely with epoxy, and it worked out fine. Epoxy doesn't shrink after it gets hard. Other times, and now it is my preference, I use auto-body plastic filler to fill up the handle, if it needs it.

After getting all the old stinky rubbish out, knot, glue, etc., whatever you might find down there that might block your access to the hollow regions, then I mentally walk through how I want to do it, so I can anticipate any possible problems.

I recently did one for my son that was a very tall handle, with a relatively small base. I knew I'd need some weight down there to give it a much lower center of gravity so it would stand up, after I got through installing the big new 24mm silvertip knot. I wanted it to stand up on the shelf during the shave and after he gets through shaving, when the brush is full of water and lather, etc. So I made it into an empty shell, filled it about halfway with auto body filler. That stuff is similar to epoxy, because you have to mix a bit of hardener into the plastic so it will set and harden. It does get hot, but again, it's only plastic itself, and the heat is insignificant.

Anyway, I filled the tall handle about halfway up with newly mixed plastic. Once you add the hardener and mix it quickly, you only have a few minutes to work with it in the liquid state because it starts hardening rapidly. Actual practice is the only way you can learn how much hardener to add, and how long it takes to start hardening. The good news here is that after it hardens, it is just plastic, and normal tools can be used to drill, grind, mill, etc., to shape it to your needs. While the plastic was fresh, I shoved a piece of a 1/2 inch bolt I had cut with a hacksaw down into the plastic. This made the brush bottom heavy and very stable, after it was finished.

If filling is needed, it might be a consideration to finish the filling part of the job first, then you can build a shelf down inside, on top of the filler you use, to sit the knot on and that way each step is independent of the other. If you try to do the entire thing all at one moment in time, then you might encounter some strategic or procedural hazards, that might jeopardize the outcome of the final product. Planning is the key, I think.

Repainting adds a new dimension to the project, but might have drawbacks. Paint can and does deteriorate and sometimes falls off. Also,the old plastic in these things might react badly with the paint or primer you use, and some of those reactions will ruin the handle. If I wanted to paint one, I'd just make sure the paint work is just like I wanted it to look and totally dry before attempting to set the knot, just because it would be a whole lot easier than waiting until you've got an expensive new knot to worry about if you paint after setting the knot.

These are just my thoughts, and experiences. Let us know how your project comes out.

[bbsupersport]

YMMV depending on your skill and attention to detail, but here are a couple of things that've worked ok for me. We're doing some resto work here on an old car that my son-in-law recently purchased, and have access to some stuff that has helped my as I redo some old brushes.

It's been my experience that epoxy never gets hot enough to melt plastic, when it hardens. Since we're using epoxy in our brushes here, I've never seen or heard of an actual documented case of one suffering any heat-related damage from epoxy.

I don't like the fact that the old brushes are usually just empty plastic, and I like my brushes to be hefty, like a new big-name brush you might purchase for $100 and on up. So if I get one that isn't already completely solid inside, then I make it that way. My first one was hollow in the upper chamber, where the knot goes, so I did fill it completely with epoxy, and it worked out fine. Epoxy doesn't shrink after it gets hard. Other times, and now it is my preference, I use auto-body plastic filler to fill up the handle, if it needs it.

After getting all the old stinky rubbish out, knot, glue, etc., whatever you might find down there that might block your access to the hollow regions, then I mentally walk through how I want to do it, so I can anticipate any possible problems.

I recently did one for my son that was a very tall handle, with a relatively small base. I knew I'd need some weight down there to give it a much lower center of gravity so it would stand up, after I got through installing the big new 24mm silvertip knot. I wanted it to stand up on the shelf during the shave and after he gets through shaving, when the brush is full of water and lather, etc. So I made it into an empty shell, filled it about halfway with auto body filler. That stuff is similar to epoxy, because you have to mix a bit of hardener into the plastic so it will set and harden. It does get hot, but again, it's only plastic itself, and the heat is insignificant.

Anyway, I filled the tall handle about halfway up with newly mixed plastic. Once you add the hardener and mix it quickly, you only have a few minutes to work with it in the liquid state because it starts hardening rapidly. Actual practice is the only way you can learn how much hardener to add, and how long it takes to start hardening. The good news here is that after it hardens, it is just plastic, and normal tools can be used to drill, grind, mill, etc., to shape it to your needs. While the plastic was fresh, I shoved a piece of a 1/2 inch bolt I had cut with a hacksaw down into the plastic. This made the brush bottom heavy and very stable, after it was finished.

If filling is needed, it might be a consideration to finish the filling part of the job first, then you can build a shelf down inside, on top of the filler you use, to sit the knot on and that way each step is independent of the other. If you try to do the entire thing all at one moment in time, then you might encounter some strategic or procedural hazards, that might jeopardize the outcome of the final product. Planning is the key, I think.

Repainting adds a new dimension to the project, but might have drawbacks. Paint can and does deteriorate and sometimes falls off. Also,the old plastic in these things might react badly with the paint or primer you use, and some of those reactions will ruin the handle. If I wanted to paint one, I'd just make sure the paint work is just like I wanted it to look and totally dry before attempting to set the knot, just because it would be a whole lot easier than waiting until you've got an expensive new knot to worry about if you paint after setting the knot.

These are just my thoughts, and experiences. Let us know how your project comes out.

Hi,

I've been following the thread and like the idea of restoring a vintage brush or two. :wink: So I'm going to give it a try.

I like the idea of using the auto body filler ( I used to be a auto body repairman many, many moons ago ), but have a couple of questions.
Since body filler is porous and would hold moisture, do you seal it before setting the knot?...say, with the epoxy.

And, if you are trying to add weight would you be better off using the epoxy as filler? It seems more dense than auto body filler.

Do you use liquid hardener or cream hardener? I used to find that the cream hardener allowed a bit longer set up time. A benefit of using the cream hardener for a beginner is that it is usually coloured (dark green or blue) so it easier to tell when you have it mixed thoroughly with the body filler.

Lastly, since you have already tried using the auto body filler, does the smell go away? That is one of the smells that is ingrained in my memory. The smell of the plastic filler combined with the hardener almost turns my stomach since leaving the trade. It never bothered me when I used it everyday, but for years afterward...yuk!

Thanks in advance for any help.

[brothers]

Good questions Bill. We may be talking about different variations of filler. The filler I have now is the cheap stuff, with the red colored cream hardener in a tube.

Once I'm through with the filler, of course I use epoxy to set the knot in place. I have no knowledge of whether the filler you are referring to is water absorbent, but mine's not. So I can't respond there.

The only time the plastic filler I've ever seen be affected by weather (on a car) is when it's been applied by an amateur and left just bare to the elements, unfinished, or the paint is damaged, which allows the water to find it's way down onto the metal, and corrosion of the metal sets in and causes the plastic to lose it's bond with the metal due to rust.

Plastic is inert. Brushes are plastic too, at least all of the ones I consider for restoration. A brush's life is one destined to be exposed to water if it's used at all. So water on plastic isn't going to present a problem.

Plastic auto body filler does emit a peculiar "fragrance" fresh out of the can, until it hardens, then it doesn't seem to me to have any fragrance at all, unless for some reason I have to grind or drill it.

Again, these are my observations and experiences, and others may differ, but so far, knock on wood, my restored brushes are getting used daily by me, my son, and son-in-law, with zero problems to date.

I really enjoy doing the work and being able to talk about it.

[BillEllis]

Those were two really great posts, Gary. Thanks. Very easy to follow.

[bbsupersport]

Gary,
Thanks for the reply. My recollection of the properties of the body filler we used to use is a little foggy, to say the least. But it makes so much sense when you say that it is plastic afterall. The problems we used to incur were probably due to the poor condition of the metal underneath that affected the adherence of a thin (or not so thin ) layer of plastic body filler. Which only occurred when someone wanted a quick, cheap job...I hated doing those!

Thanks again for the feedback on your experiences, they are a big help.

[brothers]

Those were two really great posts, Gary. Thanks. Very easy to follow.

Thanks Bill.

PS - I've been working my way through your excellent CD, and I used the jig yesterday. It's a good tool.

[heirkb]

so when you encounter a shelf and know that the handle is hollow beneath that, you remove the shelf? this question was directed at gary by the way.
so using epoxy with something heavy in the enter should be good enough for filling the cavity?

[brothers]

The neat and challenging part is that just about every old brush is put together differently. Some have a little divider underneath where the brush is glued, with a hollow cavity beneath that. Yes, that cavity can be filled with epoxy either by itself or with something added to the epoxy to increase volume or weight or both.

Sometimes the bottom part is filled and the top part beneath the knot is hollow except for the glue that holds the old brush in place. Other times the whole handle is either entirely hollow, or filled with something.

In the last one I did, it had a little round disc wedged between two cavities as a divider. The bottom chamber was hollow, and the top cavity under the brush and above the divider disc was filled with some real chalky dusty material like plaster. It all had to come out because I didn't want to think I was glueing the new knot to something chalky, because that wouldn't hold and would become loose and possibly ruin the whole project.

Because the chalky stuff didn't stick to the little disc, I was lucky and managed to drill a hole through it with the cutter bit, and popped it up and out after I got all of the chalky stuff out. If it hadn't been for the chalk, then I'd have just had to grind and cut the disc out little by little. I was going to throw it away, but before I did, I decided maybe it could be reused to my advantage in setting the knot.

After I had filled the lower chamber with something for weight, I epoxied the little disc where it would be floating in epoxy a little above the dried filler material, and then immediately poured the appropriate amount of epoxy on top of it right before I positioned the knot in place, and the little disc served as a flat and essentially level surface down in the epoxy, at the predetermined level where I had decided I wanted the bottom of the knot to sit, while the epoxy hardened, and then the project was finished.

I mentally walked through this part of the job and made dry runs without any epoxy at least 2 times to see if my idea was going to work, and to make sure everything was going to fit together and stay where I wanted it, before going with the real thing.

[Gafer]

If you really want/need to add weight to a handle you could try buckshot or bb's in the epoxy. My Shavmaster brush from Enchante is weighted in this fashion. Makes the brush really stable when you set in on it's base between passes.

[bbsupersport]

If you really want/need to add weight to a handle you could try buckshot or bb's in the epoxy. My Shavmaster brush from Enchante is weighted in this fashion. Makes the brush really stable when you set in on it's base between passes.

Another good tip! Thanks Gafer.

[heirkb]

mmmm that definitely is a good tip. just gotta set the bb's in epoxy so they don't rattle around cause thatd be unbearably annoying.

edit: i realized that what i said added no new information. lol.

[bbsupersport]

mmmm that definitely is a good tip. just gotta set the bb's in epoxy so they don't rattle around cause thatd be unbearably annoying.

edit: i realized that what i said added no new information. lol.

Hey, a shaving brush/rattle...you may be on to something! :w00t:

[Gafer]

mmmm that definitely is a good tip. just gotta set the bb's in epoxy so they don't rattle around cause thatd be unbearably annoying.

edit: i realized that what i said added no new information. lol.

As luck would have it my Shavemaster brush does rattle slightly - this is the only way I figured out that it was weighted that way. Otherwise, I would have thought it was done with plate washers.

[heirkb]

I was wondering if any of you guys knew if it was possible to use maas instead of flitz? I mean I already have some maas so I figured I would just use that if it works well.

[bbsupersport]

I was wondering if any of you guys knew if it was possible to use maas instead of flitz? I mean I already have some maas so I figured I would just use that if it works well.

I have used both and I really don't see any difference between the two.
I use Maas now, as I haven't been able to find Flitz in years.

[BillEllis]

I have used both and I really don't see any difference between the two.
I use Maas now, as I haven't been able to find Flitz in years.You'd probably have to run scientific tests to tell the difference. I like both of them. I also really like Semi-Chrome.

[heirkb]

I figured that would be the case. I already use maas to clean old razors so I didn't feel like going out and buying flitz as well.
thanks for the help

[huracan]

I mighta missed someone elses' post on it, but Goldennib now has both a Synthetic knot and a couple of Bristle (Boar) knot sizes.

Just figure I pass that along. I also noticed Tony started posting softness grades to each one of the knots, with lower numbers indicating softer.

[heirkb]

any reviews of that nylon knot? he said its super soft so im almost tempted to try it

[huracan]

Nope, just noticed it today browsing his website, don't know how long he's had it available either, but definitely less than a month.
It looks like less than 15 bucks shipped.


any reviews of that nylon knot? he said its super soft so im almost tempted to try it

[SALBOSKI]

Real good stuff guys!!!!!

[heirkb]

Real good stuff guys!!!!!

You mean the nylon knot is real good stuff? How floppy and how absorbent?

[heirkb]

also, anyone else have info on potentially painting old brush handles? what would i use on the old plastic ones?

[SALBOSKI]

You mean the nylon knot is real good stuff? How floppy and how absorbent?

No, the thread in general.

[Spatterdash]

On the subject of filling the hollow portions of the handle...

Has anyone tried bathroom silicone? Seems to me you'd just squirt some in to the level you want and give it 5 days to fully cure.

I myself may try a product called magic-sculp. It's a marine grade slow curing two-part epoxy that works like clay until it hardens (usually in about 3-6 hours).

Fantastic thread, and kudos to the author of this fine tutorial.

[Jack-in-the-Green]

Hey, guys. I just wanted to share a restoration I recently did. The handle was solid wood, so I didn't have to deal with fillers, but the hole was a little too small for the 20mm knot, so I sanded it out with a Dremel drum grinder bit. If I had it to do over again, I think I would try drilling down into the handle and setting the knot a bit deeper. But I think it came out pretty well. I just traded this baby for a Fatboy, though, so I guess I'm just going to have to get another vintage brush and make a new one for myself (or 2 or 3 or 5...). :innocent:

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv110/Jamie-O7/IMG_2545.jpg

[blackfoot]

Very nice. :thumbup1:

[heirkb]

so i've hollowed out multiple brushes and have conistently come across a dirty looking brownish substance. i'm thinking of giving up on restorations because this brown junk just seems unsanitary. anyone else experience this? it's as hard as dried epoxy and smells a bit weird. should i just go ahead and use the handle?

[brothers]

Don't give up on the brush because of it. Different manufacturers used different fillers and glues and early plastics. I'd recommend to just go forward with your plan of action in order to set your new knot, and to do it right. You make a real good point, whatever it is, if it really seems nasty, it might make for a cleaner and better job to just get that stuff out of there, and good riddance.

[whiskerlips]

Is there a vendor that offers Omega quality boar knots?

EDIT: Nevermind, goldennib has them. 24mm.

[Old Flyer]

I have set some knots and I found if you fill the handle cavity up and let a little appoxie push out it seald the brush very well. As for cleaning up the excess apoxie use lacquor thinner on a rag and it will make it look like it never happened. Note you can also use rubbing alcohol and it will clean up the excess glue, even off your fingers.

[DogHair]

Is there a vendor that offers Omega quality boar knots?

EDIT: Nevermind, goldennib has them. 24mm.

Did you get one? I have a nice Orange Ever-Ready that's ready for a knot. I've been thinking about getting boar.

[whiskerlips]

No, I haven't started any projects yet. I believe some guys from SMF may have tried some of these out though. Zach, a wealth of boar knowledge, was pretty impressed with them. I imagine they are a safe bet.

http://www.thegoldennib.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_9&products_id=163



Did you get one? I have a nice Orange Ever-Ready that's ready for a knot. I've been thinking about getting boar.

[sol92258]

Did you get one? I have a nice Orange Ever-Ready that's ready for a knot. I've been thinking about getting boar.
I got one, though I haven't made a handle for it yet.

man, that rascal is scrubby!
I'm thinking whisk broom would be accurate :biggrin:
but seriously, I think it will exfoliate quite efficiently, and I think it will soften up rather nice
I'd like to see some other sizes, but I'm not going to complain, very happy to finally have a boar knot available at least

[heirkb]

This stuff is SERIOUSLY solid though. The brown gunk just simply does not come out. I used a drill on that stuff. I even used a dremmel. Nothing really worked well. By the time the dremmel got down to wearing at a TINY fraction of the gunk, it was at a very weird angle with the edges and almost damaged the edges of the handle. It's a very nice Ever-Ready handle like one of the ones at the beginning of this thread. It's got a black screw off top with a yellow plastic bottom, so I don't want to mess it up. I'll keep thinking about this though. Maybe I'll cover the whole interior with a fresh coat of epoxy, let that harden until I have a clean interior, and then go ahead and epoxy in the knot.

[brothers]

This stuff is SERIOUSLY solid though. The brown gunk just simply does not come out. I used a drill on that stuff. I even used a dremmel. Nothing really worked well. By the time the dremmel got down to wearing at a TINY fraction of the gunk, it was at a very weird angle with the edges and almost damaged the edges of the handle. It's a very nice Ever-Ready handle like one of the ones at the beginning of this thread. It's got a black screw off top with a yellow plastic bottom, so I don't want to mess it up. I'll keep thinking about this though. Maybe I'll cover the whole interior with a fresh coat of epoxy, let that harden until I have a clean interior, and then go ahead and epoxy in the knot.

Good idea!

[DefaultAnon]

I'm thinking about purchasing a Knot and gorilla gluing it into a sizable socket bit. Is this feasible or pipe dream?

[Jack-in-the-Green]

I'm thinking about purchasing a Knot and gorilla gluing it into a sizable socket bit. Is this feasible or pipe dream?

You mean like this (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1098961&postcount=78)? :biggrin: Yah, it's doable.


This stuff is SERIOUSLY solid though. The brown gunk just simply does not come out. I used a drill on that stuff. I even used a dremmel. Nothing really worked well. By the time the dremmel got down to wearing at a TINY fraction of the gunk, it was at a very weird angle with the edges and almost damaged the edges of the handle.

I'm finding that the best way to get the gunk out is with a forstner bit. I think someone here suggested it earlier, so you can consider this a +1.

[blackfoot]

You mean like :biggrin: (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1098961&postcount=78) Yah, it's doable.



I'm finding that the best way to get the gunk out is with a forstner bit. I think someone here suggested it earlier, so you can consider this a +1.

That is what I have been using.

[DefaultAnon]

You mean like this (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1098961&postcount=78)? :biggrin: Yah, it's doable.

Hahaha, Thats brilliant. Exactly how I picture it in my head. Thank you!

[whiskerlips]

Where can you purchase the Flitz stuff? Is it available at places like Ace Hardware?

[brothers]

That's where I found it.

[Alaskan Eagle]

I had to go all over town to find Flitz. Eventually found it at a sporting goods store. Boy does that stuff work though. Makes them old handles pruddy.

[bythbook]

and it was asked very early in the thread... but I didn't see the answer anywhere - HOW do I measure the hole in the handles so's I know what size knot to order?

I have some wonderful vintage handles that are crying out to be re-knotted & used... but I don't want to order wrong sized knots.

calipers? where do I get 'em? (I hope they're cheap - I'm investing all my cash into razors, blades, soaps, brushes... etc etc etc)

thanks, guys - you've done some amazing projects!

[blackfoot]

and it was asked very early in the thread... but I didn't see the answer anywhere - HOW do I measure the hole in the handles so's I know what size knot to order?

I have some wonderful vintage handles that are crying out to be re-knotted & used... but I don't want to order wrong sized knots.

calipers? where do I get 'em? (I hope they're cheap - I'm investing all my cash into razors, blades, soaps, brushes... etc etc etc)

thanks, guys - you've done some amazing projects!

I used calipers, but they certainly aren't cheap unless you get them at a garage sale, like I did. If you go to a hobby store, you should be able to get a ruler that reads metric fairly accurately. Try fabric store, actually.

[BillEllis]

and it was asked very early in the thread... but I didn't see the answer anywhere - HOW do I measure the hole in the handles so's I know what size knot to order?

I have some wonderful vintage handles that are crying out to be re-knotted & used... but I don't want to order wrong sized knots.

calipers? where do I get 'em? (I hope they're cheap - I'm investing all my cash into razors, blades, soaps, brushes... etc etc etc)

thanks, guys - you've done some amazing projects!

Here (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7914)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/07900-07999/07914.gif

[blackfoot]

Here (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7914)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/07900-07999/07914.gif

I go there a lot and didn't realize they were that cheap. :eek:

[bythbook]

woh - thanks!




Here (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7914)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/07900-07999/07914.gif

[ADRSPACH]

What the great way how to get a decent brush with a history.

[brothers]

What the great way how to get a decent brush with a history.

If I understand your question correctly, there are probably two ways. I presume when you say a brush with a history, you mean you are looking for a used one. First, if you want a decent brush that you can use right away, and don't want to purchase a new one in a retail store or on the internet, then you can go to the Buy/Sell/Trade forum here on Badger & Blade, or one of the other shaving forums. Other members are selling brushes all the time. Second, if you want just the old used vintage brush handle so you can get a new knot and replace the old one, and want to do it yourself, which is the main topic of this thread, the best places are ebay, of course, antique stores, and flea markets.

[DefaultAnon]

How deep would you recommend setting a 28mm knot in the handle?
Im afraid if i don't set it deep enough it'll be ridiculously lofty

[Umault]

Do the knots fit most or all brush handles

[Vinny Bobo]

Do the knots fit most or all brush handles

There are standardized sizes but each brush is different. 17mm to 28mm. most of my Ever-Ready's use 22mm to 24mm.

[Stan]

Here is my .02 worth.
Instead of trying to drill out the knot. Soak the brush in very hot water for a few minutes. This will dissolve the glue that holds the knot. I have done this before and the knot will just pull out with very little effort. As noted above cut the hair short and have a pair of pliers ready. If you leave the brush in to long and the handle obtains a hazy look to the finish just use some Bar Keepers Fiend and lightly buff, then polish. The handle will look great with no damage from drills or other tools.
Stan

[bbsupersport]

Here is my .02 worth.
Instead of trying to drill out the knot. Soak the brush in very hot water for a few minutes. This will dissolve the glue that holds the knot. I have done this before and the knot will just pull out with very little effort. As noted above cut the hair short and have a pair of pliers ready. If you leave the brush in to long and the handle obtains a hazy look to the finish just use some Bar Keepers Fiend and lightly buff, then polish. The handle will look great with no damage from drills or other tools.
Stan

I am surprised that this would work, as I thought the brushes are made to use in hot water. But I'll give it a try...can't hurt! :confused:

[brothers]

PLease let us know! As a matter of fact, I can't wait, either. I'm going to invade the kitchen with my old brush right now. I'll give it the old school try, and if hot water's the way to go, then hallelujah! I don't know why I have a skeptical feeling about it, I guess it's because the life of a brush is usually nothing but water. I'm going to use really hot water for as long as I can soak it, and we'll see if it pulls out. If it doesn't, it won't be for not trying, and nothing's been lost in trying.

[brothers]

PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS!!! I just now destroyed one of my vintage brushes, and seriously maimed another. The oldest one completely disintegrated, and the lower half separated from the top half, while the lower half also lost 100% of the plastic's pretty green color. The nice little black and white Made Rite 100 will probably survive with a good polishing, but the old knot is still glued in just as tightly as ever. This is some very bad advice, and nobody should believe it. Drill it out and do it right.

[Stan]

So very sorry to read of your bad result. However, it has worked for me.

[Vinny Bobo]

Here is my .02 worth.
Instead of trying to drill out the knot. Soak the brush in very hot water for a few minutes. This will dissolve the glue that holds the knot. I have done this before and the knot will just pull out with very little effort. As noted above cut the hair short and have a pair of pliers ready. If you leave the brush in to long and the handle obtains a hazy look to the finish just use some Bar Keepers Fiend and lightly buff, then polish. The handle will look great with no damage from drills or other tools.
Stan\

In my experience this will ONLY work with a solid brush handle. The pictured brush is a Fuller and I soaked it in hot water then torqued the knot out with my hand. I would never drill a solid handle because if you dril too deep the handles ruined because you can see the mistake very clearly.

[JEEP]

So it begins :001_smile


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Brush_Restoration_01.jpg


Left; vintage butterscotch handle that I picked up on a fleamarket. Will get a 20 mm. silvertip knot from Golden Nib.
Right; the handle of the laminated bone handle brush (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92749) I picked up at medieval fair, the knot it came with was of a very poor quality. Will get a 21 mm. UK super badger knot from Golden Nib.


Regards.

Jakob

[blackfoot]

So it begins :001_smile


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Brush_Restoration_01.jpg


Left; vintage butterscotch handle that I picked up on a fleamarket. Will get a 20 mm. silvertip knot from Golden Nib.
Right; the handle of the laminated bone handle brush (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92749) I picked up at medieval fair, the knot it came with was of a very poor quality. Will get a 21 mm. UK super badger knot from Golden Nib.


Regards.

Jakob

You have to keep us posted. I wondered about the laminated one when you originally posted it. Looks like the knot came out well without any damage. :thumbup1:

[JEEP]

A few nics to the inner edge of the handle, nothing that the knot won't conseal. I am wondering whether I have drilled the handle out deep enough though - I decided to stop and see untill I have the knot in my hand.

I was really nervous about damaging it, but the original know was so lousy that I would never actually use it, so I decided to take the chance.


Regards.

Jakob

[blackfoot]

A few nics to the inner edge of the handle, nothing that the knot won't conseal. I am wondering whether I have drilled the handle out deep enough though - I decided to stop and see untill I have the knot in my hand.

I was really nervous about damaging it, but the original know was so lousy that I would never actually use it, so I decided to take the chance.


Regards.

Jakob

I would have been awfully nervous, too. Great job.

[texbilly]

Me finally noticing this thread is golden - my vintage brushes are lined up and ready for new hair! Thank you Vinny Bobo and all contributors!

[JEEP]

I got my package from Golden Nib yesterday. Here are the results:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Laminated_bone_badger_brush_01_03.jpg

This laminated bone handle (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=92749) came with a lousy knot, now it has been replaced with a 19 mm. Chinese silvertip.


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Vintage_Butterscotch_Badger_01_02.jpg

A vintage butterscotch handeled brush that I picked up at a fleamarket, the handle has been polished and the knot replaced with a 21 mm UK super badger.

The initial plan was actually for the super badger to go in the bone handle and the silvertip to go in the butterscotch handle, but the other way around just looked better.

I am looking very much forward to giving these two a spin.


Regards.

Jakob

[kingfisher]

Those look great, JEEP!

Let us know how they perform.

[aodenkou]

As you spoke of using cork from a wine bottle, I was thinking that the synthetic corks used now by some vintners might be better than "real" cork. They would not breakdown and they would not get "corkey". Reading this post is going to have me looking in the antiques shops :-$

[blackfoot]

Jeep, that bone handle looks great! They both do, actually, but I really like the laminated bone handle.

[JEEP]

Here's a post-bloom pic. of the bone handeled Chinese silvertip for you all:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Laminated_bone_badger_brush_01_04.jpg


I tried the brush with Mitchell's Wool Fat this morning, it did a good job with it. It is slightly floppy, but I knew from reviews that the Golden Nib silvertip would be that. It shedded 3-5 hairs during it's first use, that I would say is acceptable.

The two-component industrial grade epoxy I have glued the brushes with are holdning up nicely.


Regards.

Jakob

[Vinny Bobo]

Very fine brush Jakob. Nice job, man.

[JEEP]

Thank you all :smile:

Here's a post-bloom pic. of the butterscotch UK super badger:


http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e259/Jakobeep/Vintage/Vintage_Butterscotch_Badger_01_03.jpg


Regards.

Jakob

[Darjeeling Express]

Incredible work Jeep, enjoy them

[JEEP]

Thank you. I am already enjoying them very much.

These will not be my last restorations.


Regards.

Jakob

[Vinny Bobo]

May you continue to restore great old brushes!

[MOVIESTAR]

Wow good stuff

[Montecristo #2]

Sweet brushes, I really love the old butterscotch handles. How is that UK Super badger knot?

[Cmaster03]

I saw this thread just in time to fish an old Ever Ready brush out of the trash I had tossed. :eek:

I never would have thought you could restore the old handles!

[JEEP]

Sweet brushes, I really love the old butterscotch handles. How is that UK Super badger knot?

It is excellent, but sadly a wee bit floppy for face lathering.

I am actually considering drilling out the handle deeper and setting the brush with a finest knot instead.


Regards.

Jakob

[Vinny Bobo]

I saw this thread just in time to fish an old Ever Ready brush out of the trash I had tossed. :eek:

I never would have thought you could restore the old handles!

Good thing!

[fidjit]

Just found this thread....fantastic !!!! Just what I needed :thumbup1:

Here's my new pet project.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=106149

Just waiting on advice as to what knot to put in...............

Will post final pictures when done

[Vinny Bobo]

VERY nice. love that butterscotch!



Just found this thread....fantastic !!!! Just what I needed :thumbup1:

Here's my new pet project.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=106149

Just waiting on advice as to what knot to put in...............

Will post final pictures when done

[VR6ofpain]

After reading the thread, I need to try this with my old Surrey boar. Whole plug cam out. Will probably just have to buy the nib and clean the insides of the handle.
It works. I took the boar knot out of a van der Hagen brush and epoxied in the knot of out my Tweezerman (the handle rotted from water damage).

I ended up giving it to a buddy of mine. He still uses it to this day (~1 year later).

It is the brush on the left:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/vr6ofpain/misc/DSCN0965.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/vr6ofpain/misc/DSCN0966.jpg
(compared to a C&E BBB)

[Vinny Bobo]

Nice, Gabe.


It works. I took the boar knot out of a van der Hagen brush and epoxied in the knot of out my Tweezerman (the handle rotted from water damage).

I ended up giving it to a buddy of mine. He still uses it to this day (~1 year later).

It is the brush on the left:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/vr6ofpain/misc/DSCN0965.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a15/vr6ofpain/misc/DSCN0966.jpg
(compared to a C&E BBB)

[fidjit]

For those reknotting the Everready 200 (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118240), here's what it looks like inside....

Here's the knot hole ( I actually forgot to measure it, but I think it was about 22mm and it was sub 12mm depth ) and also a piccie of the insides . I'd read they were hollow but wasn't sure how they were put together. The black lugs that held the bottom were worn so it came into two pieces easily.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/limbot/Ever%20Ready%20200/P1020779.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/limbot/Ever%20Ready%20200/P1020778.jpg

[Vinny Bobo]

Great pictures Ian. That's going to make a very nice brush. Post us the pictures.

[fidjit]

Vinny

See Everready 200 restore (http://www.badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=118240) for the finished product.

And for those looking at restoring a bakelite/blacktop Fuller (http://www.badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119154)

[Vinny Bobo]

Thanks mate

[tob1303]

Alright, I've read through a lot...don't remember it all....One thing I don't seem to understand, and can't seem to replicated is the drilling out the hair part.....why am I struggling...I can't seem to make it go...but I'm a little tentative because I don't know how hard I'm supposed to go.

Can anyone elaborate, quite a bit, about the drilling out the hair process?

[Vinny Bobo]

Alright, I've read through a lot...don't remember it all....One thing I don't seem to understand, and can't seem to replicated is the drilling out the hair part.....why am I struggling...I can't seem to make it go...but I'm a little tentative because I don't know how hard I'm supposed to go.

Can anyone elaborate, quite a bit, about the drilling out the hair process?

It's really not that difficult once you know a few things:

1.) there is a shelf located approximately 1/2 an inch down through the bristles. Try not to drill through it.

2.) I start with the biggest drill bit I have and begin drilling in the center of the knot. The only purpose of the drill is to grab and pull out the bristles.

3.) Once the center is de-bristled, use a smaller sized bit and move closer to the edge. (a dremel tool really comes in handy as you get closer to the edge.)
Do not bump the edge of the brush handle because you do not want to scratch and chip the handle.

4.) I use a small bit for the detail around the knot opening.

Hope this is helpful.

[brothers]

Alright, I've read through a lot...don't remember it all....One thing I don't seem to understand, and can't seem to replicated is the drilling out the hair part.....why am I struggling...I can't seem to make it go...but I'm a little tentative because I don't know how hard I'm supposed to go.

Can anyone elaborate, quite a bit, about the drilling out the hair process?

Here's what I do. I have my drill clamped in my bench vise so I can hold the brush in my right hand and control the speed of the drill with my left. After I clip the brush hairs as short as possible, I put masking tape all around the top and sides of the brush to prevent me doing too much damage to it if something slips or something.

I have a 3/8 drill bit that I put in the drill and try to make a hole in the center of the old stubs of the bristles. I use low speed on the drill while I hold the brush in my right hand real tight and brace my right arm and wrist up against my side to give as much stability as possible. Then I gently but firmly push the brush in against the drill bit, never taking my eye off of it for a second. Concentration with both hands and the eyes is critical. Pretty soon the drill bit will make gradual progress in drilling into and among the base of the brush.

I eventually feel the brush starting to dig into the bristles and they start coming out. I stop all activity every few seconds to look down into the work and see what's going on. I'm not trying to "drill a hole". I'm trying to get the bristles rooted out of their hole. The big drill bit is not my main tool. The main workhorse is the little round burr that I bought at Woodcraft. It's about 3/16 to a 1/4 of an inch, and is tungsten. Extremely sharp. It usually takes me about an hour of hard work with the burr to get the old stuff out and clean out the hole.

You never know from one brush to the next, what you are going to find after you successfully remove the old stuff, and then you're on your way to the fun part. Here are my pictures. You'll see the 3/8 bit, the burr, and two grinding stones that fit into the drill, that I use occasionally for reaming out the hole to fit a 22mm knot. I also have a picture of a smaller grinding bit that helps smooth out the sides of the hole after the burr has done the majority of the work.

[Vinny Bobo]

well said Gary.

[tob1303]

Ugh....alright, first off...I need to get that ball bit - I looked for it for my dremel and couldn't find it.

My other problem is.....I live in an apartment building...no garage, no vise. I know, I know - this is what Rudy Vey is for....but I'd like to try it myself. Anybody have a good idea for someone lacking a vise?

I ran a test run on a cheap brush...and was able to get everything out...alright. I ruined it, because at first I tried using a small fiberglass disc in the dremel and well that was a really bad idea....and once I realized I had ruined the brush I just took the tape off and went at it hard just trying to figure stuff out. I drilled essentially a hole in the middle and then used some bit that aren't the same but work similarly to the ball bit above. I see the shelf - It's not perfectly smooth in there because well I'm not puttin a knot in this one so why work at it - but I knicked up the brush pretty good. Perhaps next time will go better. I'll be more careful and take my time.

[Schwert]

A vise is not absolutely necessary but it does make things quite a bit easier and more precise.

A pen makers vise works exceptionally well for these old handles...

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/7845/butterscotchdrill8100.jpg

Penn State Industries sells these...not cheap but a nice portable tool...no shop or garage required.

I use a standard twist drill about 1/4" to "cut" out the old hair...starting from the center then working out to the edge.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/4473/butterscotchcleaned8104.jpg

Then I use a sanding drum on a Dremel tool to clean out the hole.

http://img177.imageshack.us/img177/4319/butterscotchtop8108.jpg

If I need to drill deeper I use an appropriately sizes forstner bit.

[fidjit]

My other problem is.....I live in an apartment building...no garage, no vise. I know, I know - this is what Rudy Vey is for....but I'd like to try it myself. Anybody have a good idea for someone lacking a vise?



I am basically too impatient and inept at using tools, and as such don't have any sort of workshop or any sort of collection of tools and yet I've completed restorations with a minimum of tools:

1. Use scissors to cut off old bristles as close to handle as possible ( Still got all fingers...check )
1a. Tape top of handle just incase you slip ( hand not attached to handle with tape....check )
2. Use pliers start pulling out as much of the old bristle as possible. Don't go for big chunks, go for small chunks. Start from the inside out ( Haven't jammed fingers in pliers...check )
3. Use knife/corkscrew/drill and drill bit to start drilling/digging out the middle of the knot. ( no holes in hand/leg/arm .....check )
4. Use pliers to keep pulling out bristles until you can't get any more out ( still got all fingers....check )
5. Use drill at an angle ( think cup and spoon ), to drill out the bottom of the know. Work slowly, drill a bit, plier out bristles, drill a bit more..... Make sure your angle isn't so great that it's hitting the top of the brush ( hard to explain , hopefully makes sense ) ( Still no holes in any part of the body ...check )
6. All bristles out ???? Use bigger drill bit just to clean up the hole ( Wow...still no holes in any part of my body ).
7. In it's simplest case...glue in new knot ( Haven't glued the knot to hand, forehead...check ).

It's not the most economical way in terms of time of doing it but it can be done.

See my restoration http://www.badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119154

[tob1303]

I have a batch of restores comin.....and I know one of them I don't really want, but the auction was for 3 brushes and I wanted two of them - so I'm gonna practice what you (fidjit) did....I wasn't patient enough for mine and didn't think to use pliers. If that doesn't work.......woodcraft has a solid cheap vise that I think I can get.

[tob1303]

Can someone explain exactly what they mean when you use cork to create a new shelf? Are you just cutting a cork to size and epoxy-ing it in - or are you creating some sort of mixture of epoxy and cork shavings? I'm a bit confused.