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View Full Version : Gentleman's Essentials - Shoe Care and Polishing Technique



Mottern Man
08-29-2008, 08:52 PM
Well I must throw in a disclaimer, everything I am going to say is not gospel by any means but it should be enough to put you on the way to a better shoe shine. For me I have been wearing the same Government Issued shoes from Boot Camp for 10 years and they don’t look a day over 30. :lol:

First things first, buy a good quality shoe. You can put a nice paint job on a car but that doesn’t mean the engine will last.

Get some supplies, Polish/Wax, Horsehair Brush, Polish Application Brush, Buffing Cloth, Cotton Rag, and Saddle Soap/Mink and/or Neatsfoot Oils

What I use
- Kiwi Shoe Polish Kit ( http://www.shoetreemarketplace.com/KIWI_Deluxe_Shine_Kit_p/135010.htm) available at any drug store. No need to spend a grip on fancy stuff when this works just fine but throw away the polish (I am not a fan of Kiwi).
- Lincoln Polish ( http://www.lincolnshoepolish.com/)
- Old white cotton T-Shirt (Rag).

Here are the steps for a good polish.

1. Warm shoes; Run them under some hot tap water just enough to warm the leather, DO NOT SOAK. Buff dry with your rag, this will also clean your shoes too.
2. Put a small amount of polish on applicator brush and apply to shoes in circular motion, pay extra attention to the heel and the toe.
3. Let polish sit on shoes for a few minutes. Preferably under a lamp to keep warm.
4. Brush the shoe with the Horse Hair Brush in a side-to-side motion; really put some elbow grease in it. Make sure you get entire shoe, once again paying attention the heel and toe.
5. Repeat steps 2 and 4.
6. Put shoe on.
7. Take buffing cloth and run it over the shoe in a brisk back and forth motion, until shine. By now you should know what spots to pay attention.

If you have some extra time on your hands go for the spit shine. After you do the steps listed above continue with these steps.

1. Take that old cotton T-Shirt/Rag and wrap it around you middle and index fingers.
2. Put a little polish on, then dip in water (don’t need to use spit)
3. Rub in a circular motion, a haze will form but don’t worry. Keep going until you can see yourself in them.
4. Buff to finish.

** You could just spit shine the toe area and it will look real sharp…

No edge dressing needed (I don’t like it because it is messy and dose not look right), just shine the edge along with the shoe itself.

Shining brand new shoes will take you longer then an older pair will but don’t be discouraged. After two or so shines you will be amazed at how well they will take it.

When you are not wearing your shoes put them on a Shoe Tree or in a Shoe Box until you do. Take care of them and they will take care of you.

Shoe shining is a messy task so lay down some newspaper. You don’t want to dirty the surface you are polishing on. Be sure not to over shine or the polish will crack.

Lastly, apply Mink Oil, Neatsfoot Oil, or Saddle Soap to the shoes (as directed) once and a while. It will remove the excess polish and condition the leather.

If all else fails give up two bits to MTSSB and watch a pro in action.

And that’s the way it is… enjoy!

Jim
08-29-2008, 08:57 PM
Bravo Wil!:thumbup1:

thirdeye
08-30-2008, 07:29 AM
Will, excellent job, I better get started because my shoes look like..:9898:

Thunder
08-30-2008, 07:53 AM
Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe? I don't know where I got this tip from but igniting the polish liquifies and warms it and after snuffing it out the liquified polish soaks nicely into the pores of the leather. As I recall it shines up quite nicely but it's a technique I have not used in a long time. Always afraid I'd burn down the house. Your method much safer and one I use routinely:-)

Disclaimer: If anyone tries this, do so at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for anyone playing with fire.

Bobtrumpet
08-30-2008, 08:23 AM
Edit: First of all, very good post with sound fundamentals. Thank you. (sorry I forgot this the first time around)


Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe?

I used this method for a while. It works the first few times, but after that it seems you burn too much oil out of the polish.

I think it was in the movie "An Officer and a Gentleman," but I won't swear to it. Not sure if that's where I first saw it, or if someone in college introduced me to the technique.

I always preferred Meltonian Shoe Cream to Kiwi - it's more of a paste than a wax, and seemed to condition the leather better while still giving an nice shine. Never tired Lincoln.

blantyre
08-30-2008, 09:06 AM
I usually polish darker brown shoes with black polish - after a few applications, this gives a very nice patina bit does not change the overall color very much.

Suzuki
08-30-2008, 09:25 AM
Great post.

The importance of a well-shined pair of shoes cannot be over-stated. Unless you are rich enough to get away with the casually rumpled look or a professor, you need shined shoes.

I see so many young professionals in my work place who splash out for fancy suits, ties, shirts, pocket squares, but who regularly turn up in shoes that look like they've been polished with a brick. Scuffed up/dirty shoes ruin the whole outfit - I actually keep a small shoe shine kit in my office just in case of an emergency.

Beyond helping you look professional, women notice this sort of stuff.

The only additions I'll make are:

1) Use a small amount of polish - more polish will only make the buffing stage longer/harder and won't yield good results. Two light coats of polished (buffing in between) are better than one heavy coat of polish.

2) When buffing with your horsehair brush, I find that speed is better than pressure.

3) While a cotton rag will work just fine for the final buffing stage, I find that a pair of nylons works even better.

Once you have the right gear, shining your shoes only takes 5 minutes and is well worth the effort.

Thanks for a great tutorial!

JBHoren
08-30-2008, 09:34 AM
... shoes that look like they've been polished with a brick.

Back in the Vietnam-Era Army, the full phrase was "polished with a brick and a Hershey bar!"

DeaconKC
08-30-2008, 05:13 PM
To save your hands from having the dyes in the polish stain your fingers, cheap latex gloves will be a huge time saver. I too, love the Meltonian creams, but they are rough on the digits.
Thanks for a very well written tutorial!

Mottern Man
08-31-2008, 11:41 PM
Lighting the polish I think makes it too runny and harder to apply. It may also just ruin the polish or shoe.

Nylons? I never even thought of that... :thumbup1:

David in Boston
09-01-2008, 04:44 PM
Great post.

My only point is I'm not a big fan of KIWI shoe polish. It may have worked in the USAF but not now.

I now use Meltonian, Boot & Shoe Cream Polish. It not only give a good shine it also helps conditions the leather.

David

perry
09-01-2008, 07:06 PM
I've only ever used Kiwi. Never really dawned on me that there may be other brands that are better. Maybe I'll try another brand with my next Amazon order or something.

I can put a good shine on a pair of shoes, but I'm such a perfectionist about it that I find that I buy shoes that don't need shined for my everyday business casual wardrobe. Nubuck type stuff. I haul computers around our corporate campus -- can be a bit rough on nicer shoes at times.. Do wear my shined shoes every other week or so.

I've never used an applicator brush.. just the handy t-shirt. Worth buying?

I was taught to use witch hazel instead of water for spit shining. Anyone else tried that? Not sure what the thinking was behind it, but a few dots of spit seem to do the trick just as well.

htownmmm
09-01-2008, 07:35 PM
Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe? I don't know where I got this tip from but igniting the polish liquifies and warms it and after snuffing it out the liquified polish soaks nicely into the pores of the leather. As I recall it shines up quite nicely but it's a technique I have not used in a long time. Always afraid I'd burn down the house. Your method much safer and one I use routinely:-)

Disclaimer: If anyone tries this, do so at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for anyone playing with fire.

It does shine up nicely, but best used with kiwi polishes. We use to do it in the barracks all the time. I currently use meltonian polishes(lots and lots of colors!) which are more of a cream than polish.


marty

Sue
09-01-2008, 08:18 PM
This is a great post. Poorly taken care of shoes are quite noticable esp. if the Gent is in a suit.

Reminds me of Saturday night when I was a kid. Mom spreading newspapers on the kitchen table was our cue to bring our shoes to the table. She and Dad put polish on each of us kids shoes and their own for Church and the week. They both used the brush but it was Dad who put the finishing buffing rag to them. We didn't have much but we each had a pair of shiny leather shoes. We were expected to keep them clean and shiny for the week.
Sue

iron maiden
09-01-2008, 08:56 PM
Kiwi isn't bad...it's just that Lincoln is SOOOOOO much better.

Clockwork John
09-01-2008, 09:40 PM
This is a great post. Poorly taken care of shoes are quite noticable esp. if the Gent is in a suit.

Or a kilt. Scuffed shoes are very noticable with a kilt.

Even though I wear boots most of the time, I try to shine them periodically. It keeps them looking good, and it protects the leather too.

Great post!

royalcrown
09-01-2008, 09:51 PM
Lighting the polish I think makes it too runny and harder to apply. It may also just ruin the polish or shoe.

Yep. Shoe polish is pretty much an emulsion of stuff that don’t mix one of which is naphtha which is pretty volatile and evaporates quickly when left open to air (like when you spread it across your shoe and rub vigorously) or when you light it on fire. You can get good results doing this but they will not last anywhere near as long or look as good as Doc method. The only thing melting your shoe polish does is make the rest of your polish useless over time.

As far as Kiwi goes, I started with Kiwi back when I was in high school and changed over to Lincoln. Don’t get me wrong it will get the job done but I find it goes on too thick if you are going for a high gloss finish. Just after boot camp got my shoes polished by one of the shoeshine gents at Chicago O’hara on my way back from boot camp and was turned on to Lincoln after seeing the results. It takes a bit longer to get a nice shine from Lincoln as it goes on thinner but it is also makes a more durable and “harder” shine. To use Doc’s analogy of the paint job again, you don’t paint by slapping a thick coat on, you build with thin layers. It’s no different with show polish.

Additionally, you can get away with just polishing the toe box…. if you’re a chump


Great guide Doc, the only think I do differently is I don’t bother with a dauber and just use the cloth to apply and the brush to buff. It takes a while but I found out you can get a high gloss shine with just those steps and it wears a bit harder. I remember a Senior Chief who said he only used the dauber to do his shoes (apply and buff) but I haven’t been that patient to test this out.

Mottern Man
09-01-2008, 10:18 PM
As far as Kiwi goes, I started with Kiwi back when I was in high school and changed over to Lincoln. Don’t get me wrong it will get the job done but I find it goes on too thick if you are going for a high gloss finish. Just after boot camp got my shoes polished by one of the shoeshine gents at Chicago O’hara on my way back from boot camp and was turned on to Lincoln after seeing the results. to test this out.



My exact same story. :cool:

Jacbowron
09-20-2008, 11:01 PM
It takes a bit longer to get a nice shine from Lincoln as it goes on thinner but it is also makes a more durable and “harder” shine.

Additionally, you can get away with just polishing the toe box…. if you’re a chump


Lincoln is a harder wax than Kiwi. I find that for the same sized tins of each, the Lincoln lasts way longer. I go through about 1 tin of Lincoln a year, and usually have to buy a new tin because it has dried out rather than getting to the bottom. With Kiwi I had to buy a new tin every couple of months because I simply ran out of polish. (I'm in the Air Force and detest corframs) Usually I shine my shoes 2 times a week, and my boots once.

After the first couple of applications of wax rubbed in with a horsehair brush, I never use anything but a wet cotton ball to apply the polish. With my shoes I polish the entire shoe, with my combat boots I just shine the toe box. No point in spending much time when I'm going to be running through mud with them anyway.

On the subject of burning shoe polish:
I tried this when I was in basic, and just like most people have been saying it ruins the wax. You can get away with it for a while, but eventually it messes up the chemistry of the wax and you end up with wax that won't shine properly. I do melt my Lincoln wax occasionally though. It has a tendency to crack and turn into chunks in the tin. After a while the chunks break up and it is difficult to get wax onto a cotton ball. I'll take my can of wax and put it on the stove, and heat it up in order to melt the wax back into a single piece. This works really well, but you have to keep the lid over the wax (not sealed, but covering it). Sometimes the bottom heats up quicker than the top or some steam develops in an air pocket and blows the hot wax all over the place, including onto you and whatever you are wearing.

ECOSSE
09-21-2008, 05:01 PM
The only thing I would add to this thread is that if you feel uncomfortable, or don't have room in your sink, to wet your shoes under the faucet, use a spray bottle. A few friends who were caddies at a nice country club showed me that trick. Just do a quick spray on either side of the shoe before applying the polish. Water for sure helps make a better shine.

Mickdaman
09-22-2008, 05:53 PM
Great post, Doc.

One thing I'd say about Kiwi is that their 'Parade Gloss' is much better, if you can find it.

GarageBoy
09-28-2008, 11:17 AM
What about kiwi Parade Gloss?

royalcrown
09-30-2008, 06:08 AM
What about kiwi Parade Gloss?

Its pretty much kiwi with a bit of silicone. Its different than regular Kiwi, it gives a greasier shine (not in a bad way). Given the choice between the two I would go with the parade gloss, but really do your self a favor and find Lincoln.

crazycliff200843
10-06-2008, 11:38 PM
I got the newer boots (brown nubuck) when I was a boot and they wouldn't let us wear the black ones anymore. I do have black leather shoes now that I wear to work. I find the parade gloss gives a better shine than the regular kiwi. I use a little sponge applicator to apply. I find that taking a lighter to the polish after you apply it to the shoe works well enough for me and keeps me from running out of polish as fast. This also keeps the IPs down, but you have to be careful if you don't take the laces off. I also have pretty big feet, so the lighter gets real hot and I find myself taking breaks to let it cool off. Kiwi's deluxe is a little creamier and I use that or mink oil every so often to condition the leather. I started out using some kind of ultrashine stuff (real thin liquid). It gave an excellent shine, but after a while it started chipping and cracking off and looked uneven. There's a bunch of videos on youtube on the way the original poster described.

Dustinl
10-07-2008, 06:53 AM
I'd like to add to this. If your shoes or boots are leather sole, I can't emphasize this enough: at least once a week, treat the bottoms with a conditioner of some kind. It will make your soles last longer and prolong time between half soling. Also, be sure to condition the welts at the same time (the shoe/boot repair guy will appreciate it. It is a hassle to re-welt). There are two products that I use, Bick 4 or Leather Balm. Any brand of saddle soap will work also.



DL

knlgskr
10-07-2008, 07:34 AM
Lincoln, Kelly/Lynn, DeAngelis polishes, Meltonian/Proppert's creams have always worked well for me. Leather Balm, Neatsfoot Oil for conditioning leather, Fiebings/Proppert's Saddle Soaps for cleaning leather, Mink Oil and others for water repellency. Do not forget leather soles and heels. Just a damp cotton or piece of nylon for me. I have shoes/boots that are about 50 and still going strong. Buy the best footwear you can find, take care of it and your feet and bank account will thank you. I think I can polish footwear as well as anyone I have met and that isn't just my opinion and yes when I was a lad I did it professionally. "I can see my face in mine; can you see yours in yours?"

Doc4
10-09-2008, 04:24 PM
The importance of a well-shined pair of shoes cannot be over-stated. Beyond helping you look professional, women notice this sort of stuff.




Poorly taken care of shoes are quite noticable esp. if the Gent is in a suit.



*cough*













I'm shinin' some shoes tonight. (Never heard of the run-them-under-the-tap-first thing, though! :eek:)

Mottern Man
10-09-2008, 04:28 PM
"Never heard of the run-them-under-the-tap-first thing, though! :eek:"

Trust me on this, you will notice a difference.

BarbeForte
10-23-2008, 07:45 PM
When I was in the army, I used a trick to spit shine my shoes. Instead of using water, I'd wet the cloth on a block of ice, it worked faster I don't know why (I used the classic Kiwi stuff).

For the combat boots, only a good brush did the trick.

Doc4
10-24-2008, 12:39 PM
My shoes are looking shinier than ever! Thanks guys, I needed a kick in the ampersand to get the ol' polish kit out again. A bit of water & cloth-rubbing at the end really makes an improvement!

Anton von Tripp
10-24-2008, 12:59 PM
Although this post is about polishing shoes, might I add that it is perfectly acceptable for brown brogues, walking boots etc. simply to have that warm glow of well buffed oiled leather.

Cordially, AvT.

Roman414
10-24-2008, 03:43 PM
I was taught in the Navy to never bring a brush anyone near a shoe. Way we did it, we would apply Kiwi wax to the welts and side of the soles and heel with a toothbrush. Put a little water in the lid of the polish tin, twist a bit of cotton tee shirt around your finger, moisten it in the water, pick up some polish on it and apply it to the shoe with a circular motion, covering only a small area at a time. Re-moisten and pick up more polish as necessary. Rub and rub until you have a mirror-like gloss. Some guys, instead of using water in the lid, would keep spitting on the shoe. Hence, "spit shine". I never found that saliva offered any advantage over water.

knlgskr
12-31-2008, 10:53 AM
I watched a retired British SAS Warrant Officer shine his shoes and he used Kiwi polish the following way: a coating of black spit shined followed by a coating of brown also spit shined and a coating of black spit shined. I had not seen this done before and it made an outstanding shine; perhaps better than I could do using only black polish. His name is Ian Welch/Welsh from Glasgow, Scotland The things you learn in your travels.

Richard

DocMustang
01-01-2009, 01:13 PM
Dont know if its still even available but my father and grandfather, both Virginia Military Institute engineering graduates swore by drafting vellum as a polishing cloth. Drafting vellum had this very finely woven cotton cloth impregnated with some kind of wax. They would cut a small section and soak it in hot water until the wax melted out. You were left with a fine cloth perfect for polishing shoes.

SRock
01-14-2009, 01:06 AM
Excellent post Will, looks like our approach to this is nearly identical! I also prefer Lincoln over Kiwi. Although, now the only shoes I shine are civilian. We no longer wear black boots in the AF. Our boots are suede. We wear patent leather shoes with our service dress uniform.

SILVERBACK
01-17-2009, 03:38 AM
when i first got some decent shopes i did research on correct ways to clean them.(video jug link to follow)after applying the wax i leave the shoes for 24hours before buffing the wax off.i also remove the laces and put shoe trees back into the shoe whilst cleaning and waxing.

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-polish-leather-shoes

Poulin
01-20-2009, 06:09 AM
What I used when I was in the army.... (and I actually got in trouble from the School SGT Major of the Canadian Forces Medical Services School for having my boots too shiny)


Kiwi cloth
Kiwi Parade Gloss
bowl of spring water
ice cubes

patience, and teeny-tiny circular motions...

neilxvx
01-21-2009, 11:17 AM
This might have been added already, but I think it's important to use those shoe blocks that you stuff insdie your shoe. They help your shoes last longer, and some of them are made from aromatic cedar which keeps them smelling good.

Does anybody shine their shoes with the shoes off their feet?

Houndawg
01-21-2009, 11:53 AM
I've found that a new brush doesn't work very well. The brush has to be broken in. Once the bristles are black the brush works a lot better. I have one tha'ts 20 years old that works better than any new brush.

You can spit shine the Navy way without brush shining first, but it takes a lot longer. You need to get a good base of wax in the leather before a spit shine will take. Keep brush shining them for a while then once they take a shine really easy with a brush you can start spit shining them.

New shoes or combat boots made with stiff leather won't keep a shine well. I've had new combat boots that I shined up and as soon as I walked in them the wax powdered right off. You need to break the leather in and soften it up before it will keep a shine.

The Nid Hog
02-04-2009, 10:00 AM
Nothing much more to be said, but I'll add my own preferences. Brushes, etc. are OK for cleaning off a boot or shoe, and saddle soap is invaluable. I've tried stockings too, but I'm not convinced they are necessary. For shining, all you need is a soft cotton cloth (like an old t-shirt), cold water and your polish. Kiwi is serviceable, but Lincoln has a nicer shine.

I would add that it's an excellent idea to keep extra shoe and boot laces on hand. Nothing more irritating than a broken lace when you're on the way out the door and nothing sadder than reknotted broken laces.

Also, find a good cobbler. They're much scarcer than they used to be, but they can add years of life to a shoe. Keep an eye on the wear of your shoe and take it in before things get out of hand. Spend your savings on a good single malt.

The Nid Hog
02-04-2009, 10:01 AM
You can spit shine the Navy way

I can't resist coming back to this. I was in the Marines for a while and this is the first time I've ever heard this phrase ;-)

Cheech
02-04-2009, 11:27 AM
+1 on the cobbler. Its amazing what a good cobbler can do. Unfortunately, these days, it appears to be a lost art like the neighborhood barber or butcher: find and then keep jealously at all costs.

One thing I'd like to add is the use of mink oil or similars. Some cremes and polishes come with oils added, but using straight polish will kill a boot like cancer. Straight polish will slowly dry the leather. I do mine maybe once a year or so. Or after a bad winter (a rarity here in California). It takes a while for them to shine well again, but it helps keep the leather soft, supple and somewhat waterproof. Take it from a guy that is forced to wear $400 boots daily. Oils are your friend.

vroddrew
02-05-2009, 01:13 PM
I love it when older posts get brought back to life....

A couple of additional thoughts on general shoe care:

1) Buy and use good cedar shoe trees for every pair of good shoes you own. The cedar helps absorb that nasty foot sweat/odor, and keeps the toes from curling up. Put shoe trees in after every wearing. Also, shoe trees allow you to polish shoes yourself without having your foot in them.

2) Try and leave at least two days between wearing each pair of shoes. This allows them to dry thoroughly.

3) Buy and use a proper shoe horn to slip your feet into your shoes. Take a small plastic one to the gym if you work out away from home.

4) If you are in a hurry you can skip this step - but for optimal shoe polishing, always remove the laces completely before applying polish. This also allows you to clean and polish the tongue and around the shoelace holes.

5) Speaking of shoe laces: They are cheap and readily available. Replace worn or frayed laces as soon as needed. Make sure you buy the correct color, length, and thickness. Thing you (probably) didn't know: Name of the plastic (sometimes metal!) tip on the end of shoelaces: aiglet or aiguillette - from the french word for needle.

6) Check your heels: Replace worn heels promptly. A decent shoe repair place will do this for ~ $20 or so. Consider resoling expensive/top quality shoes.

7) If you have a large shoe collection, dress shoes you don't wear very often, or simply travel with dress shoes: Buy and use shoe bags. Prevents freshly shined shoes from getting dusty when sitting in your closet. Prevents smearing black shoe polish on your neatly folded dress shirts when travelling.

8) Personally, I like edge dressing. It can be very messy to apply, but it really adds a crisp look to nice dress shoes. Make sure you buy both black and brown to match your sole colors.

Houndawg
02-05-2009, 01:30 PM
5) Speaking of shoe laces: They are cheap and readily available. Replace worn or frayed laces as soon as needed. Make sure you buy the correct color, length, and thickness. Thing you (probably) didn't know: Name of the plastic (sometimes metal!) tip on the end of shoelaces: aiglet or aiguillette - from the french word for needle.



It's more commonly known as an aglet without the i. Here's a site I came across that tells you how to repair aglets: Aglet Repair (http://www.shoe-lacing.com/shoelace/agletrepair.htm)

behrendprof
02-09-2009, 07:27 AM
Never too old to learn something new:

I gave this program a shot (thoguh I sprayed the shoes rather than run them under the faucet). Two coats, lots of brushing (lots of sweat, too), and then the T-shirt and polish finish.

I have never had shoes look this good. I only regret it took me so long to understand something that everyone should know. How come we don't?

Outstanding Essential skill posting.

Houndawg
02-09-2009, 12:45 PM
I can't resist coming back to this. I was in the Marines for a while and this is the first time I've ever heard this phrase ;-)

I was refering to Roman414's post when I wrote that. He was describing how they were taught in the Navy. That way would take way to much work. Getting a good base on your boots will let you get a mirror shine quicker and with less effort. That's the way they taught us in Marine Boot Camp.

narf
02-24-2009, 07:23 AM
When I bought my nice shoes, I was told to occasionally spray anti-bacterial stuff inside. What's recommended for this, something that won't damage the leather?

knlgskr
02-24-2009, 07:50 AM
I love it when older posts get brought back to life....

A couple of additional thoughts on general shoe care:

1) Buy and use good cedar shoe trees for every pair of good shoes you own. The cedar helps absorb that nasty foot sweat/odor, and keeps the toes from curling up. Put shoe trees in after every wearing. Also, shoe trees allow you to polish shoes yourself without having your foot in them.

2) Try and leave at least two days between wearing each pair of shoes. This allows them to dry thoroughly.

3) Buy and use a proper shoe horn to slip your feet into your shoes. Take a small plastic one to the gym if you work out away from home.

4) If you are in a hurry you can skip this step - but for optimal shoe polishing, always remove the laces completely before applying polish. This also allows you to clean and polish the tongue and around the shoelace holes.

5) Speaking of shoe laces: They are cheap and readily available. Replace worn or frayed laces as soon as needed. Make sure you buy the correct color, length, and thickness. Thing you (probably) didn't know: Name of the plastic (sometimes metal!) tip on the end of shoelaces: aiglet or aiguillette - from the french word for needle.

6) Check your heels: Replace worn heels promptly. A decent shoe repair place will do this for ~ $20 or so. Consider resoling expensive/top quality shoes.

7) If you have a large shoe collection, dress shoes you don't wear very often, or simply travel with dress shoes: Buy and use shoe bags. Prevents freshly shined shoes from getting dusty when sitting in your closet. Prevents smearing black shoe polish on your neatly folded dress shirts when travelling.

8) Personally, I like edge dressing. It can be very messy to apply, but it really adds a crisp look to nice dress shoes. Make sure you buy both black and brown to match your sole colors.


:thumbup1: Amen! Outstanding thread, thankee one & all. Feet are right there and when they hurt; the rest of you does likewise. Proper footwear and care of same may be the most important segment of what we wear.

Richard

blackfoot
02-24-2009, 08:34 AM
Excellent advice. You put in one place all the information I spent hours researching a couple of years ago. My only addition: I use foam make-up wedge applicators to apply polish, although the brush probably does a better job.

ryanl7640
08-24-2009, 12:36 PM
A tip I will share- after several rounds of polishings, use a rag with some rubbing alcohol on it to gently wipe down the shoe and remove dirt and prior layers of wax. It will then shine up nicely as instructed by previous posters.

Ryan

ClubmanRob
08-24-2009, 01:08 PM
The only thing I can really add is my brand preferences. I've tried pretty much every brand name polish I think they make, including Griffin, Lincoln, DeAngelus, Roper, etc, but I always come back to the Kiwi. Specifically, the Kiwi Parade Gloss. Same with the Saddle Soap. (And stay away from the liquid type- all your polish and saddle soap should come out of a round can.)

One tip I wanted to add concerning browns. I have some boots that are a peculiar shade of brown- almost verging into Black Cherry territory. Griffin used to make an Ox Blood polish that worked great on this type of color, but they no longer make it. I find that taking your rag and dabbing it into equal parts Brown and Cordovan produce the same effect.

poonjaji
09-01-2009, 08:28 PM
Thank you for the great thread everyone. It is nice to be able to glean from the experience of fellow members. My wife recently stumbled upon a video at the following link - http://garra.jp/style/tailored/index.html - and suggested I learn to polish my shoes like the guy in the video. Well, now I have a place to start.

Thanks!

mark the shoeshine boy
09-03-2009, 07:26 PM
shining shoes....how did i miss this thread ?

I don;t spit shine anymore...

I use kiwi regular polish...the parade polish seems to build up a waxy coat ater awhile tht i don;t like....but that is just a preference guys....I have used licoln and even shinola....lol

I must stress the quality of your brush...if you can find one of those older horsehair brushes from the 50's or 60's good luck....they are so full and thick and makes your shoes "pop" so quickly...

Here is an off the wall tip....after you warm you shoe and you apply the first coat f polish on them, stick them in the freezer for a fe minutes and allow that polish to cool off completely before you start brushing....

I has used nylons before (on the shoes guys) but i just stick to a basic shoe shine rag that you can buy....

yes cleaning your shoes is very important to doevery once in awhile...saddle soap is what i like....

i do use a shoe dobber to apply the polish....i don;t stain my hands like i did when i was a kid....

shoe trees...a must....

two bit a shine....sure come on over.......:001_rolle


great post.....

Deltaboy
09-04-2009, 07:59 AM
Here Here for all you Having well shined shoes is a often neglected part of being a well groomed Gentleman.

I have a pair of Wing-Tips that are now 28 years old and will soon have to have half soles.

I also agree with shoe trees I have some real old wood ones that got at Garage sale years ago .

laberinto24
10-03-2009, 01:08 AM
Hi I just want to say a very big thank you to the OP. Just started wetshaving and paying attention to many details of my appearance such as shining my shoes. These instructions have gone a long way...earlier today my dad noticed my shined shoes and got excited about my newfound interests. When I offered to shine a few pairs of his shoes...well, you should have seen the huge grin on his face. :biggrin: :biggrin:

Kouros
10-05-2009, 06:31 PM
I clean my shoes with a product called Afta. You can find it in Home Depot. It was recommended by my shoemaker. It works great to remove old polish and dirt.

Johnnie Walker
10-30-2009, 08:01 PM
Just have to say thanks for this great batch of knowledge. Fiance had a pair of boots that she loved and was ready to give the heave ho!!! With B&B info i saved them while she was out and got a lovely thank you upon her return :biggrin:

B&B'rs i owe yah one!

Mojo88
10-31-2009, 12:51 AM
I have a shoeshine kit that was my father's. It is over 40 years old and still going strong. The brushes are in great shape. When you get a brush,buy quality it will serve you and future generations well.

ia_james
10-31-2009, 01:03 AM
Lots of good dope in here, the only way to pick it up is to be born back when leather shoes (I wore Buster Brown) were the rule vs. tennis shoes, or spend some time in the service (USMC). Lacking that, these guys came off the knowledge for ya.

lennrupp
05-28-2010, 09:56 PM
"Look neat about he feet when you hit the street."
-motto of the RISE & SHINE SHOE SHINE PARLOR in St. Louis, MO:thumbup1:

mark the shoeshine boy
05-29-2010, 03:43 AM
"Look neat about he feet when you hit the street."
-motto of the RISE & SHINE SHOE SHINE PARLOR in St. Louis, MO:thumbup1:


I heard about this place, but never been there...

mouscacha
06-02-2010, 03:14 PM
I just purchased one of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-DREMEL-775-CHROME-SHOE-SHINE-BUFFER-POLISHER_W0QQitemZ270586849938QQcategoryZ0QQcmdZVi ewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m506QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DNGRI% 26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D20%26pmod %3D190398636493%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D80942443795845 55291)aftering using a beck at a gentleman's club. After reading another thread about shoes that are unpolished, I couldn't help but get something to touch up my shoes daily. Was this a good buy?

lennrupp
06-08-2010, 09:37 PM
I heard about this place, but never been there...
Back in the 80's Playboy Magazine rated airport shoe shines and found the best were at Lambert Airport in St. Louis. Many of the guys working at the airport started at the House of Good Care or the Rise & Shine Shine Parlor.

The House of Good Care was a shoe shine landmark in St. Louis which closed in the 90's after the death of the owner.

IMHO The cream shines are the best, but the Combination cream and polish are just as splendid. Just polish works if you've been doing some of the routine maintenace mentioned in this thread.

I've got a pair of 25 year old Johnston Murphy's that got their first shine by Mike. YMMV but the quality won't.

Rise & Shine Shoe Shine Parlor
<Google or enter this address in your GPS>
3519 Saint Louis Ave St Louis, MO 63106
Call and Ask for Mike
314-531-5765

lennrupp
06-08-2010, 09:50 PM
I just purchased one of these (http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-DREMEL-775-CHROME-SHOE-SHINE-BUFFER-POLISHER_W0QQitemZ270586849938QQcategoryZ0QQcmdZVi ewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m506QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DNGRI% 26its%3DI%252BC%252BS%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D20%26pmod %3D190398636493%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D80942443795845 55291)aftering using a beck at a gentleman's club. After reading another thread about shoes that are unpolished, I couldn't help but get something to touch up my shoes daily. Was this a good buy?
If all you want to do is keep your shoes clean then yes.
But you may want to read these links from Esquire about shoe maintenance:
How to Take Care of Your Shoes (http://www.esquire.com/shoe-protection)
How to Buy the Right Shoes (http://www.esquire.com/best-mens-shoes-0210)
How to Refurbish Old Shoes (http://www.esquire.com/shoe-refurbishment-0408)

Big Kev
06-11-2010, 05:29 AM
Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe? I don't know where I got this tip from but igniting the polish liquifies and warms it and after snuffing it out the liquified polish soaks nicely into the pores of the leather. As I recall it shines up quite nicely but it's a technique I have not used in a long time. Always afraid I'd burn down the house. Your method much safer and one I use routinely:-)

Disclaimer: If anyone tries this, do so at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for anyone playing with fire.

This is the method I use occasionally. I do seem to get a better polish out of my boots when I do this. But once I have a good shine built up, it is just maintenance and I don't always light the polish before.

Kouros
06-11-2010, 07:12 PM
I do not like shiny shoes so I use leather cleaners and conditioners instead of shoe polish. It keeps my pants cleaner as well.

goby
06-12-2010, 01:57 PM
I'm a lawyer and it is shocking to see lawyers with either cheap suits, pants with a suit jacket (they are different than sportcoat jackets), and/or dirty shoes.

I have two Norelco Mancare Shoe Polishers from the 80's. I got one in the 80's when I was in the Army, and one off ebay for about ten bucks. I don't see one on ebay now, but they look sort of like the picture below. It take 5 minutes tops to shine my shoes before court.

Here's the link to the one in the picture, which I have never used. http://www.goodmans.net/get_item_pr-08702_presto-08702-shineon-electric-shoe-polisher.htm

http://www.goodmans.net/item_images/pr-08702_FULL.jpg

David in Boston
06-12-2010, 02:52 PM
I do not like shiny shoes so I use leather cleaners and conditioners instead of shoe polish. It keeps my pants cleaner as well.

What cleaner and conditioner are you using?

SRock
06-12-2010, 07:48 PM
I do not like shiny shoes so I use leather cleaners and conditioners instead of shoe polish. It keeps my pants cleaner as well.

I think this is dependent on what you are wearing. Sometimes simply shining the shoes can set off the whole ensemble.

Kouros
06-12-2010, 08:20 PM
What cleaner and conditioner are you using?

Meltonian.

toivari
06-13-2010, 06:23 AM
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/2479/kiillotus.jpg (http://img571.imageshack.us/i/kiillotus.jpg/)

Kiwi is terrible IMO. I prefer a german army shoe polisher that I buy at my
local army surplus store, if you find this stuff, get it! (costs less than 5$, lasts forever)

http://www.varusteleka.fi/pictures/1215.jpg

after polish i apply some shoe deodorant.

jonwings
06-14-2010, 12:14 PM
Can anyone recommend a good shoe polishing kit?

Sam
06-14-2010, 12:52 PM
I use Kiwi and tried Meltonian. I like Kiwi for the more glossy shine, and since I shine them often enough, dont need as much leather conditioner. I use panty hose that my wife gets a run in and they shine them up fantastic. Old Army guy taught me that trick. keep a pair in my office drawer to touch up if i need to

TheShaun
06-14-2010, 06:14 PM
Can anyone recommend a good shoe polishing kit?

I'm curious about the one in the first post. Anyone have an opinion on that one?

TheDoctor
02-25-2011, 09:14 AM
Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe? I don't know where I got this tip from but igniting the polish liquifies and warms it and after snuffing it out the liquified polish soaks nicely into the pores of the leather. As I recall it shines up quite nicely but it's a technique I have not used in a long time. Always afraid I'd burn down the house. Your method much safer and one I use routinely:-)

Disclaimer: If anyone tries this, do so at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for anyone playing with fire.

I use this technique routinely. For those who want to try it, be advised that the polish ignites a high & wide flame, so make sure there are no flammable substances nearby. Snuff the flame out just after it covers the entire surface area of the polish (no more than than 5 seconds). Apply the polish immediately.

Thunder, Robert DeNiro uses this method in the movie Taxi Driver. You may have picked it up there. I figured it out on my own because I'm a pyromaniac and was screwing around one day. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/images/smilies/yellow_guys/ohmy.gif

TheDoctor
02-25-2011, 09:15 AM
Have you ever tried igniting the Kiwi polish in the tin prior to applying to the shoe? I don't know where I got this tip from but igniting the polish liquifies and warms it and after snuffing it out the liquified polish soaks nicely into the pores of the leather. As I recall it shines up quite nicely but it's a technique I have not used in a long time. Always afraid I'd burn down the house. Your method much safer and one I use routinely:-)

Disclaimer: If anyone tries this, do so at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for anyone playing with fire.

I use this technique routinely. For those who want to try it, be advised that the polish ignites a high & wide flame, so make sure there are no flammable substances nearby. Snuff the flame out just after it covers the entire surface area of the polish (no more than than 5 seconds). Apply the polish immediately.

Thunder, Robert DeNiro uses this method in the movie Taxi Driver. You may have picked it up there. I figured it out on my own because I'm a pyromaniac and was screwing around one day. :ohmy:

Doc4
02-25-2011, 09:58 AM
Apparently, TheDoctor advises that one polish and ignite one's shoes twice in a row. :001_rolle

mark the shoeshine boy
02-26-2011, 07:38 AM
here is a new canadian website I found:

http://www.12air.ca/default.aspx?p=howtopolishboots

The Count of Merkur Cristo
02-26-2011, 01:37 PM
Will:
This Thread and Posted Replies may be of some interest to you. :thumbup:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=180361&highlight=shoe+shine

And this 'link' might help you get a better ('bulling'), shine :blush:

http://www.hucknallatc.talktalk.net/Getting%20the%20perfect%20shine%20on%20your%20shoe s.pdf

Christopherhttp://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u55/BJ_BOBBI_JO9/Dance%20and%20music%20related/5_1_1171.gif http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e105/CommentCrazyGirl/Smiley%20Animals/a98.gif

Jeffc
03-02-2011, 02:20 AM
Great post - only just found it !
Having read through, its amazing how little we can get in the UK, Kiwi seems to dominate the market. No Lincoln polish on Amazon UK (not allowed to buy from Amazon US !) - could only get it on Ebay.
Any suggestions on brands of good quality Shoe brushes ??

Jeffc
03-02-2011, 04:47 AM
Sorry - another question - How do you rate Saphir polish against Lincoln.

By the way, I use baby wipes to clean instead of water, (lots around at the moment !) I know it doesnt warm the shoes up but I can get into the creases easier.

TheDoctor
03-02-2011, 12:06 PM
Apparently, TheDoctor advises that one polish and ignite one's shoes twice in a row. :001_rolle

Well, you have 2 shoes don't you? Not sure how I managed that double post. I'm smat....I mean smart.

mark the shoeshine boy
03-02-2011, 03:54 PM
Great post - only just found it !
Having read through, its amazing how little we can get in the UK, Kiwi seems to dominate the market. No Lincoln polish on Amazon UK (not allowed to buy from Amazon US !) - could only get it on Ebay.
Any suggestions on brands of good quality Shoe brushes ??

I am checking into the Diplomat Brush...this one is made in Germany and the two great brushes that I have used have both came from there...

You can find the Star brand anywhere..they are alright...but this older brush that I have is awesome and the one that my dad has is twice as good...

I will let you guys know when i can get one...:thumbup:

Jeffc
03-03-2011, 12:04 AM
Thanks Mark,
How do you rate the Saphir brushes in your shoe box ?

Montecristo #2
03-03-2011, 07:11 PM
This thread is a true resource! Lots of great info, I'm headed to the basement to shine the wing tips.

I bought two of these a couple years back:

http://shoeshinekit.com/shinebutler.html

I attached the bracket (the main section is removable) to my workbench and it has proven an invaluable tool for shining shoes.

mark the shoeshine boy
03-04-2011, 03:54 AM
Thanks Mark,
How do you rate the Saphir brushes in your shoe box ?


I do not have Saphir brushes...just the unknown one from Germany, however, I have read the Diplomat brush is the one to buy for the quality.

I have this underlying suspicion that most of the brushes made in the world are made by a handful of manufacturers and thus thier quality are essentially the same.

Did I confuse you with the two pictures that I posted about the shoe shine accessories that you need? Those are just on my wish list.

gaseousclay
03-04-2011, 06:51 AM
can someone tell me if all leather shoes are created equally when using shoe creams? I have a pair of cap toe oxfords made of nappa leather but wasn't sure if using a garden variety brand like Kiwi would damage the shoe? any ideas?

gaseousclay
03-04-2011, 10:48 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io2KFwZ5B8w

i'm sure some of you have seen this video before. it's kinda soothing to watch. anyone have any ideas what kind of applicator brush he's using? it looks like a flattened shaving brush....I wonder if using a cheap boar brush from Walgreens is ok to use?

gaseousclay
03-05-2011, 04:32 AM
I just ordered some Saphir wax polish yesterday...can't wait to try it out. do most of you use leather conditioner before applying polish?

gaseousclay
03-05-2011, 11:16 AM
some more questions:

- how often do you shine your shoes? once a week? once every 2 weeks? once a month?

- is it bad for your shoes if you were to rotate wax polishes in between cleaning? let's say you polish your shoes with Kiwi one week and then you polish it with Saphir the next....could this damage the leather?

duotone
03-05-2011, 03:47 PM
some more questions:

- how often do you shine your shoes? once a week? once every 2 weeks? once a month?

- is it bad for your shoes if you were to rotate wax polishes in between cleaning? let's say you polish your shoes with Kiwi one week and then you polish it with Saphir the next....could this damage the leather?

In last months GQ (UK Edition) George Glasgow who works here http://www.gjcleverley.co.uk/ answered 5 questions. These 2 are the most relevant to what you were after.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU CLEAN SHOES?

Preferably every time you wear them. The wax should be applied after wearing and left to sink in overnight, before polishing in the morning. This allows it time to sink in.

WHAT ARE THE BEST POLISH PRODUCTS TO USE?

Wax polish is best because it feeds the leather better. Cream is good for shining. Applying polish properly is also important. Use a horsehair brush to make sure the polish gets into the welt stitching between the leather and sole.

I found this, especially the "extra tip" quite useful http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/comment/articles/2010-12/17/gq-comment-shoe-shining-masterclass-

Jeffc
03-07-2011, 02:23 AM
I just ordered some Saphir wax polish yesterday...can't wait to try it out. do most of you use leather conditioner before applying polish?

Let me know how you rate the Saphir against the Kiwi and (if youve tried it )the Lincoln polish.
I shine mine once a week (as well as the kids !) however I only wear a pair of shoes once in a week. I also tend to apply polish one week and cream the next.

expre
03-21-2011, 06:31 PM
This is my first time reading any post outside of the shaving related posts. I have worn Rock port wingtips my whole life, following the advice of my Dad. He wore the same shoes as well throughout his whole career. Thankfully, I started to change my looks a few years ago.

I have unknowingly been using regular kiwi shoe polish and some of my Dad's old brushes from the 50's. No wonder the tailor looked at me funny when he asked if I am planning to wear the Rockports with the slacks.

Thank you for the information. I have always wondered how to get a high gloss finish on my shoes but did not have the time or memory to learn the method. I find myself writing down notes to improve my lifestyle thanks to Badger and Blade.

flight567
03-21-2011, 08:28 PM
hhmmm, what is your opinion on "spit shines" like... military type shining methods? with the little tight circles... that's what i do... but i rub the polish in with a brush, so i guess i do a combination of both the "traditional" and the "military" way of shining, either way it looks really nice :) somethin that i find very usefull, is to go over the polish once it's sunk into the leather, and use VERY light strokes which smooths out the polish even more and makes it even shinier

_dadgad
04-30-2013, 07:59 AM
Seems that there are as many ways to take care of shoes are there are folks on this forum! So in that spirit, here's how I do it:

Quick brush to knock off the big pieces of dirt.
Damp cloth to get anything the brush couldn't.
Light coat of wax (I'm fine with Kiwi)
When the wax dries (doesn't take long) brush it to a shine.
Just for good measure, hit it the the nylon stocking to enhance the shine.

I rotate my dress shoes, keeping cedar shoe trees in them to dry them out.

Jerry4roo
05-07-2013, 09:26 AM
Looked at my brown shoes this morning and realized they needed a shine badly. This is my first foray into the Haberdashery, but I wanted to see if there was anything that i have been doing wrong. I did a slow water shine this morning and my shoes look almost new!!! So happy! Thank you again B&B!