View Full Version : aristocrat problems.
I've been having some problems with my no date code notched bar aristocrat. I try to apply as little pressure as possible, but i still get some burn. I havn't nicked myself since the first day I tried, but I havn't had that perfect shave yet either. I normally use gillette swedes, however i've been trying the rest of my sampler pack, the derby and crystal are blah, and I can't even get through one shave with them.
Would you suggest trying the feather and seeing how it goes? The swedes even give me some drag and skipping sometimes. I've been very good with the angle and with the pressure.. Should I try a different razor? I have some pretty high end stuff. My brush is a shavemac LE, and I alternate between penhaligons castile cream, MB's neroli EO, proraso sometimes..
any help would be appreciated.
Also some tips for the chin area would be nice. My throat area can only be smooth from a ATG S-N pass, which ALWAYS makes the swede skip and drag, causing much pain, so any general tips would be nice also.
06-13-2008, 08:34 PM
what's your prep like? and what kind of cream/soap are you using?
06-13-2008, 08:40 PM
Nothing personal but if you can't get a great shave out of a Swede something is wrong. Prep, technique or something. Try checking out Mantic's videos. The Feather is as sharp as a Swede but not as smooth IMO.
prep is a hot shower, sometimes some conditioner. Plus I switch between face lathering and bowl, so the face lathering is a prep i guess.
creams: penhaligon castile, proraso, eshave white tea
soap: MB neroli, MB GIT stick
06-13-2008, 08:43 PM
It just might be the razor. Sometimes its as simple as that. I have also found a few razors that just do not perform well for me. So don't get worked up over a razor and do try another one and see if the skipping problem persists. When you talk about going ATG on your throat area are you doing this in your last pass or the first? I ask this because if you have not done enough reduction before going ATG then there is a chance for the blade to skip.
If you don't mind, I'm going to be a little controversial and suggest it may be the razor.
I have two identical Aristocrats (gold, notched bar, no date code). The first one shaves like a razor and does a very nice job of it - gentle, often needing touch ups. The second one shaves like an angel - it has given me one-pass BBSes, but it leaves me with a burn (aftershave only, not an actual redness or rash).
I have used both with the same blades (Swedish Gillette blades are all I use) and same soaps/creams and get the same differing results. Examined under a magnifying glass, there don't appear to be any differences in the exposure, safety bar, or shallowness of the head. Nothing that is noticeable anyway.
The only difference between the two is that they tighten up slightly differently. The first one that gives good, regular shaves tightens up much more than the second one. The second one (the angel) still tightens up, but it's different. Possibly making changes in how much you tighten the handle will made a difference?
The two Knacks I have (one from the first year of production; one from the last year) shave differently, though they also appear the same.
The three Schick Kronas I have all shave differently.
Now, the differences aren't remarkably strong, but they are there.
So, while I agree that proper prep and technique are important and that finding the right razor/blade combo is a big help, I also now believe that different razors within the same model can give noticeably different results.
I believe you can coax a great shave out of it and not get the irritation. It will be a matter of finding that razor's sweet spot by adjusting one small portion of your shaving technique to see how it works.
06-13-2008, 09:01 PM
I have an Aristocrat #16 (guard bar). It shaves like a dream. I find that using shave oil prior to my cream provides a nicer shave but not necessarily so with a double ring Rocket.
I've found that the heavier razors provide quite a lot of feedback, if you feel for it. You may need to adjust your technique for a slightly lighter touch and blade angle.
If you are getting irritation, I wouldn't recommend a Feather.
06-13-2008, 10:35 PM
I have recently been trying VERY vintage Gillettes, going back to the early 1900's. I have found among the very vintage razors that they take time to find that "perfect" angle. It's not like shaving with a 50's SS or TECH....you have to work to find the right angle. Otherwise you will find yourself "scraping" instead of cutting. A little practice and you will get very nice shaves. Remember, all razors shave a bit differently, take your time and find a comfortable angle.
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