My DMT D8EE just arrived

[PHormality]

Its still really cold right now as its 30F outside, so I think I'll let it warm up some before I try it out.

I was expecting it to have the circles all over it like all the other DMT products, it just looks like a piece of metal with no grit at all. I spent the first few minutes trying to decide which side was up. I'm guessing if I have the writing on the side right side up that is the way to go.

I can see how it would be easy to over-hone as its smoothness would make you think you're doing nothing.

I don't yet have a pasted strop so I'm hoping I can go right from the D8EE to the leather strop and get it good enough to shave with.

I've been getting decently close with my blade currently, but even ATG it isn't exactly smooth, especially the neck. For the first couple weeks they were terrible, but as my technique has improved I've been getting closer, but still not close at all. I went from have a very trim short beard (when I'd actually trim it...every couple weeks) for the past 8 years to shaving with a straight and only a 1 person even made mention of it when they saw me...apparently I'm not getting close enough for people to even notice a difference

For those that own a D8EE, do you think 3 passes should be enough to bring it up to speed? I don't want to over-hone it.

Also, is it recommended that I throw some other knives and things at it first to break it in a little before taking my str8 to it?

[joke1176]

I have heard that any diamond plate should be "broken in" first. Lotsa threads where folks say it had a rough feel at first. I dunno, I don't own a DMT.
Any of the diamond plates I have used did feel different after first use though.

[heavydutysg135]

Unless your razor is REALLY close to being there, it is very likely going to take a LOT more than 3 passes to get the razor shave ready. I wish that it was that easy.:biggrin:

[kbuzbee]

Well, mine is still in transit so I can't answer your questions but I'm sure I've read most of the same threads you have....

I plan to throw a couple knives at mine, as you indicate. Then a couple "beater" razors 1, to continue breaking it in an 2. to get feedback on how it's breaking in is coming - for razors, if that makes sense?

I do plan to follow it with a Spyderco UF and pasted strops.

Joel mentioned (I'm sure you read) that 3-4 passes is a lot on this thing and it cuts very quickly. I'd certainly test it OFTEN as you go.

Are you using it with soapy water? I've read several times that is a good idea.

Good luck and please post you first impressions.

Ken

[joel]

Don't put knives on it. It should be smooth as glass, and be broken in by the factory. Their other plates aren't the 8K one is. Rubbing some knives on it (and if you do this - make sure to use NO pressure, so you don't dislodge the diamonds) isn't going to help if the hone is smooth.

I'd start out slow. Since you don't have to prep the stone, and you are admittedly new to this, give it 4-5 ZERO pressure passes (both ways) then shave with it tomorrow. Based on the shave, give it more (if needed) and take it from there one day at a time. Let's say it takes you a week to get it straightened out - you'll have just learned the cutting power of your hone, and what you'll need to bring your razor to the desired sharpness based on various degrees of how dull it is.

Oh, and make sure to document what you're doing each day, and share it with us to help out newbies :biggrin:

[PHormality]

Don't put knives on it. It should be smooth as glass, and be broken in by the factory. Their other plates aren't the 8K one is. Rubbing some knives on it (and if you do this - make sure to use NO pressure, so you don't dislodge the diamonds) isn't going to help if the hone is smooth.

I'd start out slow. Since you don't have to prep the stone, and you are admittedly new to this, give it 4-5 ZERO pressure passes (both ways) then shave with it tomorrow. Based on the shave, give it more (if needed) and take it from there one day at a time. Let's say it takes you a week to get it straightened out - you'll have just learned the cutting power of your hone, and what you'll need to bring your razor to the desired sharpness based on various degrees of how dull it is.

Oh, and make sure to document what you're doing each day, and share it with us to help out newbies :biggrin:

I was hoping you'd reply, but got slightly impatient and just had to try it last night.

I did take a knife to it before the razor, there was one area where it hung up bad, but was smooth after the initial knife.

I gave about 5 passes back and forth, then stropping it about 40 times. I tried the HHT with poor results. I then took it back to the stone (against my better judgement) and did what I thought would happen by the deceptive smoothness of the stone and went about 10 more passes on it, stropped it up and shaved with it. (HHT still did nothing)

It felt about the same, if not ever so slightly worse then before. Could this be due to over-honing? Or do I really need to get a pasted strop if I actually want to get a good shave? I just spent $300+ on my initial setup and was hoping I could hold off and wait until my birthday (in july) for someone to buy me the pasted strop. I need to save money for vegas next month :laugh:

I guess I could send it out to get honed to get a good reference and maintain it on the strop until I need to do it again and by then maybe I'll have the pasted strop. I would like to do it myself, but I'd also like to know what a good shave is like and that its possible. Kind of like in golf, you're awful, but then you hit that 1 perfect shot that keeps you going :w00t:

Thoughts?

[kbuzbee]

Don't put knives on it. It should be smooth as glass, and be broken in by the factory.

I've heard both, Joel. Several posts have referenced some pretty sever rough spots even though it's "broken in at the factory". Still, you're the pro with this thing so advice noted, thanks! Can't wait to see how mine is.


Oh, and make sure to document what you're doing each day, and share it with us to help out newbies :biggrin:

What he said!

Ken

[joel]

I was hoping you'd reply, but got slightly impatient and just had to try it last night.

I did take a knife to it before the razor, there was one area where it hung up bad, but was smooth after the initial knife.

I gave about 5 passes back and forth, then stropping it about 40 times. I tried the HHT with poor results. I then took it back to the stone (against my better judgement) and did what I thought would happen by the deceptive smoothness of the stone and went about 10 more passes on it, stropped it up and shaved with it. (HHT still did nothing)

It felt about the same, if not ever so slightly worse then before. Could this be due to over-honing? Or do I really need to get a pasted strop if I actually want to get a good shave? I just spent $300+ on my initial setup and was hoping I could hold off and wait until my birthday (in july) for someone to buy me the pasted strop. I need to save money for vegas next month :laugh:

I guess I could send it out to get honed to get a good reference and maintain it on the strop until I need to do it again and by then maybe I'll have the pasted strop. I would like to do it myself, but I'd also like to know what a good shave is like and that its possible. Kind of like in golf, you're awful, but then you hit that 1 perfect shot that keeps you going :w00t:

Thoughts?

If this is a new/never honed razor, and you've never honed before, than no offense - but you're in WAY over your head. You have no idea how much work needs to be done on the razor - the condition of the bevel, etc etc. If it's a pre-honed razor that needs a touch up - anything more than 5 ZERO pressure strokes on the DMT D8EE is going to be overhoning. If it's a new razor that hasn't been honed - it could take 15-25 minutes on the DMT to get it where it needs to be, but again - if this is your first time, you're in way over your head, and you'll likely screw it up worse for whoever will have to hone the thing up for you when you're done :wink:

[Brewman]

I was expecting it to have the circles all over it like all the other DMT products, it just looks like a piece of metal with no grit at all. I spent the first few minutes trying to decide which side was up. I'm guessing if I have the writing on the side right side up that is the way to go.



All of the plates in the same "family" as the D8EE have the abrasive on the entire surface- no little holes. Yes, use the writing on the side to determine which side to use. The less fine plates in this family are much easier to tell the abrasive side- but still you can use the writing on the side.

[Limey]

It sounds to me as though your razor isn't sharp enough to have much of an impact with your new 'finishing' stone.

[PHormality]

If this is a new/never honed razor, and you've never honed before, than no offense - but you're in WAY over your head. You have no idea how much work needs to be done on the razor - the condition of the bevel, etc etc. If it's a pre-honed razor that needs a touch up - anything more than 5 ZERO pressure strokes on the DMT D8EE is going to be overhoning. If it's a new razor that hasn't been honed - it could take 15-25 minutes on the DMT to get it where it needs to be, but again - if this is your first time, you're in way over your head, and you'll likely screw it up worse for whoever will have to hone the thing up for you when you're done :wink:

No offense taken. I'll admit I don't really know what I'm doing, but that is why I'm reading up and trying to learn. I think I may send it off to get honed so I know what the shave should feel like to get started.

However, I'd like to learn every part of the process so I don't need to rely on others. Also paying someone else to do it would almost negate the cost savings of not having to buy blades. I'm just wonder how one is to learn the skills if they are sending it out to be honed?

[joel]

No offense taken. I'll admit I don't really know what I'm doing, but that is why I'm reading up and trying to learn. I think I may send it off to get honed so I know what the shave should feel like to get started.

However, I'd like to learn every part of the process so I don't need to rely on others. Also paying someone else to do it would almost negate the cost savings of not having to buy blades. I'm just wonder how one is to learn the skills if they are sending it out to be honed?

Buying a paint brush and some paint won't teach you how to create art/paintings if you've never seen one.

It shows you what a blade SHOULD feel/perform like, and to maintain that super sharp edge is SIGNIFICANTLY easier than to create it. Right now, you're flopping around without any gauge on where you are.... you could be close, or TOTALLY off. Unless you've got a barbershop nearby with a barber willing to hone your razor, and show you how - you don't really have many other choices.

You don't (or shouldn't have) purchased a straight razor to save money, as if you did, you were misinformed, and will not be pleased with your purchase.

[Sticky]

Read this (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=31640) if you haven't already.

I would get a bit of practice on a antique shop razor (of decent steel) before I tried learning on one I was fond of. The "stickys" here (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=33719) are a good starting point.

Once armed with how the tests work and how to set a decent starting bevel, you'll be over half way there. The thumb pad test (TPT) can be the hardest one to learn. You can practice that one on a DE razor blade or similar.

Learning to hone your own is all part of the fun.

[PHormality]

Buying a paint brush and some paint won't teach you how to create art/paintings if you've never seen one.

It shows you what a blade SHOULD feel/perform like, and to maintain that super sharp edge is SIGNIFICANTLY easier than to create it. Right now, you're flopping around without any gauge on where you are.... you could be close, or TOTALLY off. Unless you've got a barbershop nearby with a barber willing to hone your razor, and show you how - you don't really have many other choices.

You don't (or shouldn't have) purchased a straight razor to save money, as if you did, you were misinformed, and will not be pleased with your purchase.

You make a very good point there. I may have underestimated the art of honing and was trying to jump over the whole learning process.

It wasn't purchased as a means to save money. I did like the idea of being self reliant and having to go buy cartridges and things. It also makes shaving rather fun and I'm always up to learn a new skill. When I spoke of cost saving is was more long term, 5+ years out. Provided I didn't get all caught up buying 20 razors, brushes, and massive amounts of soaps, creams, and after shaves



Read this if you haven't already.

I would get a bit of practice on a antique shop razor (of decent steel) before I tried learning on one I was fond of. The "stickys" here are a good starting point.

Once armed with how the tests work and how to set a decent starting bevel, you'll be over half way there. The thumb pad test (TPT) can be the hardest one to learn. You can practice that one on a DE razor blade or similar.

Learning to hone your own is all part of the fun.

Thanks, I may go see if I can buy an old blade pretty cheap to cut my teeth on while I get my good one professionally honed until I'm proficient

[heavydutysg135]

You should definately learn to hone your own razors, but just not your first one. Learn to shave with a great edge first, then you can learn to put the edge on.

[asbjorn]

For some of us, it is not very easy to get help in this, so we have to use the available help in these forums.
I have been reading the guide up and down, and it looks like this must be feasible.
Have lots of stones somewhere in the post, among them one DEE, so I'm going to try this as soon as I get them.

I have one Dovo which I'm going to put on hold, but also bought one old straigt, and one sanguine straigth, the last one, I don't care if I hone it to hell, if I only learn from it :D

[asbjorn]

With help, I mean that I cannot go to the local barber to get help, because there is none.. As far as I know of. Regarding the Dovo, I can send it to Germany, but I rather would not, since they sell it as "shave ready", who knows what they will do with it?

[PHormality]

With help, I mean that I cannot go to the local barber to get help, because there is none.. As far as I know of. Regarding the Dovo, I can send it to Germany, but I rather would not, since they sell it as "shave ready", who knows what they will do with it?

I don't have a standard barber like I did growing up. If I went to my home town my guy that cut my hair for about 7 years growing up would probably show me as they did straight razor cuts there, so I'm guessing he can hone, but its a long drive and I haven't been there in years

[asbjorn]

I have never seen any barbershops around where I came from, and where I am now. I do think we have some imigrants around who maybe can do some barbershop works, but I'm little reluctant about giving away my precious..

[netsurfr]

Bought a DMT8C for lapping my Norton 4K/8K and I am really sold on these. Have since ordered the Fine, Extra Fine and Extra/Extra Fine. Can't wait until they arrive. As much as I have enjoyed the Norton, it will be nice not to have to do the maintenance on it to keep it flat.

[Chrisl]

Bought a DMT8C for lapping my Norton 4K/8K and I am really sold on these. Have since ordered the Fine, Extra Fine and Extra/Extra Fine. Can't wait until they arrive. As much as I have enjoyed the Norton, it will be nice not to have to do the maintenance on it to keep it flat.

Now that you've been bitten by the DMT bug, Steve and you've ordered the line, unless you're also going to continue to acquire other hones and use the D8C for lapping those, I would wager to say that you're not going to need the D8C any longer. You could lap a fine polishing stone like a coticule on a D8E easily. I guess you could keep the D8C for sharpening other tools?

Chris L

[Droshi]

D8C would probably be much nicer to lap a chinese 12k or spyderco? Although it's said you usually only have to lap those once.

[asbjorn]

I have lapped chinese 12K and coticule with D8C, and as other have said that should be ok, so I don't think you need D8E for lapping those stones?
I have the D8E but don't think I will lap these with it, the D8C seemed to do a very good job.