Disassembled 58-59 Fat Boy

[razercat]

I know I saw a pic someone posted of a 58-59 Fat Boy that was disassembled. I cannot locate it on the site, so I was wondering if anyone here rembered it or had a link to the pic?

Thanks
Eddie

[radaddict]

I know I saw a pic someone posted of a 58-59 Fat Boy that was disassembled. I cannot locate it on the site, so I was wondering if anyone here rembered it or had a link to the pic?

Thanks
Eddie

There used to be pics on the SMF site, but the links to the pics no longer work. However, here is a link to the thread discussion the disassembly:

http://www.shavemyface.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10272&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=fat+boy+repair&start=0

Not exactly what you were looking for, but I hope that helps.

[Haiku]

I remember the pictures of the disassembled fatboy very well. I'm surprised that they can't be found, they were great pictures.

[radaddict]

Well, I've got one I can disassemble. If I have a few moments tonight, I'll take it apart and take some pics and post 'em here.

[matt_curran]

I would like to take mine apart as well but I do not know what wrench to use? I saw on the SMF post that the member used a 'spanner wrench' where would I be able to find one of these and are they pricey?

[cooncatbob]

You can only disassemble a D model Fatboy. A D has a recessed nut in the end of the handle that can be gripped with needle nose pliers and unscrewed. Later models have a crimped on fitting that turns but doesn't come off, unless someone has come up with a special tool to remove it.
Bob.

[radaddict]

Here are some pics of my E3 Fatboy disassembled along with a pic of my modified tweezers for unscrewing the TTO knob retaining nut. The parts in the 3rd picture are a combination of the E3 and a different E Fatboy - one that was damaged. I didn't want to pull the head off of my rather nice E3 Fatboy for obvious reasons (I would have had to clamp it in a vise and yank off the head - I don't mind doing that on a damaged razor, but on this E3... nah!)

[cooncatbob]

Sweet: So is that fitting snapped on? Have you tried it on a slim?
I'm going to copy your pictures and make me a new tool.:thumbup1:
Bob.

[MTgrayling]

Nice job! So what is it that wears out in the handle when the TTO won't lock down anymore?

[razercat]

Hey,
Thanks a lot for the great pics. I think the spring gits gunked up and left closed for a long time and then it (the spring) gets froze in a colapesed position and then it will not have that last 1/8 to 1/4 turn when it locks. So you have to get it to loosen up to work again. I got a 59 fatboy to work but am having a time getting a 61 in great shape to work. The 61 does not come apart.

Thanks again
Eddie

[MTgrayling]

Good to know. Thanks for posting those pictures. I will also make a tool this weekend and dig into a '59 Executive that I recently received that is nearly mint except for a dial stuck on 3.

[razercat]

The best way I have found is to boil them and most of the frose parts begin to loosen up and work. A broke spring will also keep the razor from locking up when tightend with the tto knob. The only problem is if the razor is gold plated then you should not boil because it will take off the lacquer that protects the gold plating.

Eddie

[radaddict]

Sweet: So is that fitting snapped on? Have you tried it on a slim?
I'm going to copy your pictures and make me a new tool.:thumbup1:
Bob.

The fitting (a retaining nut), if I'm understanding you correctly, screws off. This fitting on a Slim is pressed on and you will damage it beyond repair if you take it off - so the Slim cannot be disassembled. This is the case with the date code G Fatboys (and possibly some of the F date codes as well).

[cooncatbob]

The fitting (a retaining nut), if I'm understanding you correctly, screws off. This fitting on a Slim is pressed on and you will damage it beyond repair if you take it off - so the Slim cannot be disassembled. This is the case with the date code G Fatboys (and possibly some of the F date codes as well).

So the end of the rod is threaded? I though that you had made a tool to get the crimped on fitting off.

[Haiku]

Thanks very much indeed for taking the trouble to do this, it is much appreciated! Your pictures are just great.

[radaddict]

So the end of the rod is threaded? I thought that you had made a tool to get the crimped on fitting off.

No need to make a tool for that... Needlenose pliers will work just fine. Once you've pried off the crimped fitting, all you need do is buy another razor 'cause you've just ruined that one. :biggrin:

[radaddict]

Thanks very much indeed for taking the trouble to do this, it is much appreciated! Your pictures are just great.

My pleasure. It was a choice between saving the world, or taking pics of my disassembled Fatboy. I thought the pics were more important. :rolleyes:

[Haiku]

My pleasure. It was a choice between saving the world, or taking pics of my disassembled Fatboy. I thought the pics were more important. :rolleyes:

+1. That is to say, at least +1. :smile:

[Magruder]

You can only disassemble a D model Fatboy.
Bob.

Actually, Bob, I can disassemble lots of stuff that they say you can't take apart.

Problem is that some of the stuff I take it apart stays taken apart...

[cooncatbob]

No need to make a tool for that... Needlenose pliers will work just fine. Once you've pried off the crimped fitting, all you need do is buy another razor 'cause you've just ruined that one. :biggrin:

In theory you could pry off the crimped fitting, thread the end of the shaft with a threading die, then put a very small lock nut (like those used on a router bit) on the end. Anybody got a junker fatboy or slim I could experiment with?:w00t:
Bob

[duckintheface]

Ok, I now have two Fat Boys partially disassembled, but I'm not sure how to proceed. I have removed the nut and pulled out the shaft with attached silo doors and endcaps. Next step is to remove the base plate (with attached blade guard) and I guess the blade support platform comes out at the same time.

So next I'm supposed to push the red adjustment pin and pull hard to get the base plate out. Which way do I push the pin? It will go in... toward the centerline of the handle, but it will also move "down" toward the end of the handle. In which position should the pin be held as I try to pull off the base plate? Also, do I rotate the base plate as I pull or just pull straight out. I think this was discussed to some extent on the shavemyface link above but that site is down right now.

Thanks for your help. Michael

[duckintheface]

:biggrin: bump

[Aevum]

actually, i need to disasemble a super adjustable, dosnt lock well and is really scary to shave with,

[Haiku]

:biggrin: bump

PM sent.

[zbench]

This is the tricky part of getting the fat boy down to completely stripped. There are some misconceptions about the role of the "so-called" set pin on the numbered adjustment collar. The pin as it is called is actually a very thin strip of spring steel, painted red with an embossed ridge in it. It serves two purposes. The first is to limit the travel of the adjustment collar from 1-9. The embossed ridge also is what gives the knob the audible "click" when rotating it. To a lesser extent, it also hold the knob in position, but in reality when the knob which opens the silo doors is fully tightened, the numbered adjustment knob can no longer be easily rotated.

So, how to get the dang thing apart then? First, you need to simply push the red strip of spring steel in with a paper clip, and rotate the adjustment collar clockwise until it won't turn any further. Keep pressing the spring when you reach the "1" until you can rotate past it. Once you have screwed the adjustment knob fully clockwise, the embossed area of the spring is clear of the part of the knob which engages it. It no longer can hinder the disassembly.

Here is what most don't know. The U shaped piece which projects through the floor of the blade platform is a very tight friction fit inside the barrel. Most people think that if the spring is pushed in, it just comes apart. Unfortunately, this isn't so. To get the piece out, very slightly rotate the blade platform while pulling. This will sometime cause it to pop right out.

CAUTION! When it comes free, the little spring will go flying. Do this in an area which you can easily find it. I have used a paper bag to catch it as I pulled it apart. It is a very tiny piece of steel. I measured it at only .013 thick and maybe 3/32 wide.

Now, if all goes well, once you get that friction fit overcome both parts will come out together. Unfortunately, like many things in life, it usually isn't that easy. After 50 years of use, lots of lather and crud get down that hole and it gets frozen in place. If after a moderate amount of tugging you can't get it to come free, try boiling it for 15 minutes and as soon as you can handle it, try again.

In extreme cases (once) I had to open the jaws of a vise and let the handle dangle through the opening and drive the head off with a drift pin. I did get it apart, and even after that kind of extreme surgery, it was still no worse for the wear.

Second CAUTION! Don't get carried away with rotating the blade head. It is fabricated of two parts...the base and a tube which is press fit into the base. If you go at it too hard, you will break the press fit and it will freely rotate and you will still be no closer to getting it apart. You have to really try hard to get this to happen. DON'T use pliers or anything like that...if you can't get it loose by hand, you will need to drive it off. If you do screw it up, that is break the press fit of the tube and platform, you can use a tapered punch to expand it and get it frozen again.

The fat boy is an ingenious piece of engineering, but it isn't the space shuttle.

I'll work on taking some pics and post them to better explain the process.

Oh, and btw, don't attempt to remove the adjustment knob on the base of the barrel. It doesn't come apart. The barrel contains at least 4 parts, all of which are pressed together. I have a junker, and some day I will rip it completely apart to see how it was put together.

Pete

[filedog]

Here's a link to FB disassembly instructions http://vintagesaws.com/fatboy/fatboy.html with pictures
I have removed the center rod and door assembly, but I am confused about the next part, when holding down the spring, and turning the adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, are we looking at the razor from the TOP, or the BOTTOM?