Fountain Pens

[Taz]

As some of you have read I am in pursuit of a Parker 51 Aero I think but not sure. Couple questions I would like kelp with.
On the Parker Aero or Vac is one better then the other and what about year?
I would like to build to 3 -4 Pens to cover nib range. I think I want to go Vintage. the parker 51 seems to be a must own IYO what are the other must owns and any specific on years or styles?
Thanks to all who can help. More opinions the merrier

[farace]

I don't know yet whether an Aero or a Vac might be preferable; I've got a Vacumatic (not a "51") being repaired by Richard Binder right now, so I'll know something in a while. As for "must own," are you referring to performance, classic design, or what? I think an Esterbrook J series is worth owning; they're relatively inexpensive, and there is a wide range of screw-in Renew Points available for it, so you can get different nibs in the same pen. I really like the streamlined-deco looks of an Eversharp Skyliner, which comes in many finishes and a few different nibs, some flexy. There are some wonderful Sheaffers; I've got my grandfather's old Statesman Snorkel in my pocket right now. Sheaffer Triumph nibs are wonderful writers, although I don't think you'll find one with flex, if that appeals to you (same is true of the "51"). Have you checked out www.fountainpennetwork.com yet?

[tm3]

there is YMMV in pens just like everything else. in my nosing around the various forums i would say that the pen that seems to get the most universal praise is the pelikan, so based on that i would consider one of its variants a must have.

[KenS]

Go ahead with a 51 aerometric. They are nice problem free pens. They are easy to sell if you decide you don't like them.
Ask around first on places like http://www.pentrace.net/PenMarket.htm
to see if anyone has one for sale. Go for a plain Jane like a 51 special, because you are then paying for the pen, and not the cachet.
Best Regards, Ken.

[farace]

Go for a plain Jane like a 51 special, because you are then paying for the pen, and not the cachet.

True, but I have to say, not all "51" Specials are completely plain-Jane. Mine has a Lustraloy cap with a grey pearl jewel. Certainly not nearly as fancy as some of the "51"s get, but it's nothing to complain about.

[Taz]

I know YMMV but just like razors there are those few vintage ones that most agree you have to own. Like the 51. Thanks for the sites but I was hoping some of the pen geeks here woud throw ou some suuggestions. With the Pelkin are there vintage ones I thought they were new to the pen game. I have a 800 now and love it but would really likle to go with a couple vintage. Thanks for some of the names I will start looking for r them would love to hear more.

[bbqncigars]

I'd suggest scoping out the marketplace at FPN (http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/) for good pens at good prices. I picked up a nice Parker 51 Flighter and an Esterbrook J a while ago for very reasonable prices. Both of these pens had been cleaned and re-sacked, btw.


Wayne

[Dennis]

Parker started the "51" in Vacumatic which was only made for a few years (until 1948 IIRC). They then switched to Aerometric which they used until they stopped producing the pen (70s? I'm a bit fuzzy on the exact history). The Vacs work just fine, but they work via a rubber sac that can have a tendency to dry out or crack with age and need servicing, plus they are a pain to empty. The Aerometric filler is a nice, reliable, problem-free system.

"51"s are the agreed upon vintage pen to own. There are not very many others. As you know, many, many different varieties and styles, and the fact they made them for so long, make them an obvious collector. Otherwise, in vintage pens, people mostly seem to desire what they remember writing with when they were young. Esterbrooks are quite popular along with old Watermans and Sheaffers. Your best bet is to start at FPN:
http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/

There are separate forums for the major pen manufacturers which you can back browse to see pics and what appears desirable to collectors - it can be quite unusual to an outsider why a pen is so wanted, but no different than razors. I highly recommend attending a pen show as well. There is no other place where there will be so many pens and so many knowledgeable people under one roof who are just waiting to show you what they brought to sell and answer questions. At the last Michigan Pen Show, there was one guy who only sold Parker 51s, and they were WAAY out of my price range.

Good luck Don - it is a fun hobby.

Dennis

[farace]

Yes, Pelikan has been around for a while. I have a Pelikan 120 from the '70s, and I know they go back quite a way before that.

Maybe the correct starting point would be to ask yourself what you prefer in a nib, and go from there. Some prefer fine or very fine rigid points. Others prefer medium or broad nibs. It depends on your handwriting. Do you want an even line, or do you want a line with a lot of expressive variation? You'll find that some companies do flex better than others. What sort of paper do you tend to write on? Fine points will sometimes dig into a textured paper that a medium or broad would glide right over. "YMMV" varies even more with fountain pens than it does with shaving.

As for pens that "most agree you should own," aside from the "51" I think it would be hard to find another specific model. Brands, yes: Parker, Sheaffer, Wahl/Eversharp, Esterbrook, Waterman. All made some great pens. I'll admit that Esterbrook isn't quite up to the same level as the others, but they made cheap, extremely durable, and extremely easy to repair pens that still look great (many with gorgeous shimmering celluloid), and it's super easy to change the character of the pen by switching the point, which just screws in (and they made about thirty or so different nibs to fit in there). Some people have very in-depth Esterbrook collections, but I think most FP users have, or have had, an Estie J, LJ, or SJ at one point or another. (Check out www.esterbrook.net for what is probably the best Estie site online.)

[dokpm0]

I'd suggest scoping out the marketplace at FPN (http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/) for good pens at good prices.

Gee, thanks. As if I'm not being tempted enough by the buy/sell/trade forms here and at SRP you go and post a link to a fountain pen forum with yet another buy/sell/trade form to further tempt me. Okay, I must run out and buy some lottery tickets. I need a larger hobby budget. :biggrin:

[farace]

Gee, thanks. As if I'm not being tempted enough by the buy/sell/trade forms here and at SRP you go and post a link to a fountain pen forum with yet another buy/sell/trade form to further tempt me. Okay, I must run out and buy some lottery tickets. I need a larger hobby budget. :biggrin:

You can get some good deals on FPN, though. I got my "51" Special from another member for $35. I've been super happy with it. FP lovers tend to give a break to each other, and coming from a FP user, chances are it's in better writing condition than from an unknown seller on eBay who may not know the first thing about fountain pens.

[Dennis]

You can get some good deals on FPN, though. I got my "51" Special from another member for $35. I've been super happy with it. FP lovers tend to give a break to each other, and coming from a FP user, chances are it's in better writing condition than from an unknown seller on eBay who may not know the first thing about fountain pens.

The community is no different than here. I would rather buy razors from B&B members. You get better deals and you know exactly what you are getting. Exact same thing there.

Dennis

[Bahamianlvr]

I highly recommend attending a pen show as well. There is no other place where there will be so many pens and so many knowledgeable people under one roof who are just waiting to show you what they brought to sell and answer questions.


If you get the chance to attend one, this is a very good way of learning about pens. In the meantime, fpn will get you more than enough info as to what you want. You can't go wrong with a good, working Parker 51 though.

[Hendu3270]

I have a quick question that some of you may know. I have a Duke fountain pen that I bought off of Ebay. It didn't cost much and in the world of fountain pens just might be frowned on, I have no idea. But it looks cool and feels nice when writing with it. So, if I fill it with ink, do I need to use the pen immediately and make sure to use all the ink within a certain amount of time? Or do I need to fill and just set it on my desk and use it when ever I need to over the next few weeks? I guess what I'm getting at is this, is it bad for my pen to have ink in it for an extended period of time?

[farace]

So, if I fill it with ink, do I need to use the pen immediately and make sure to use all the ink within a certain amount of time? Or do I need to fill and just set it on my desk and use it when ever I need to over the next few weeks? I guess what I'm getting at is this, is it bad for my pen to have ink in it for an extended period of time?

I think that, while generally it shouldn't be a problem over a period of a few weeks, it depends to some extent on the characteristics of the pen and the particular ink. Some pens will remain free-flowing and ready to go for weeks, it seems, while others will dry up in a matter of minutes. Same is true for inks; some are faster drying than others. Best bet is just to try it and see.

[bbqncigars]

I personally flush any new pen acquisition before inking it. A cup of tap water with just a little regular (not lemon scented) ammonia does nicely, followed by plain water. Then let the pen sit nib down on a paper towel overnight to remove the residual moisture and you're ready for ink. Here (http://www.richardspens.com/) is a great resource for more pen info.


Wayne

[farace]

Good point, Wayne, I hadn't even considered first-use degreasing (most of my pens are decades past their first use). Some folks use a little dish detergent dissolved in water for that, but whatever is used, the procedure often avoids skipping and dry nibs caused by oils keeping the ink from flowing properly.

[bbqncigars]

I just had a chance to visit my recipe files for Richard Binder's preferred formula for pen flushing (it works great!):

2 Tablespoons clear regular (not lemon scented) ammonia
2/3 cup water
2 drops of Dawn liquid dishwashing soap

I filled up a quart bottle with this recipe a while ago, and just didn't remember the particulars.

Wayne

[Taz]

Went to my first pen show today in Ohio:001_tt1: Those that recommended it I am sure whether to thank you are curse you I will post some pics later in the week:biggrin1:

[BarryR]

Agree with the Parker 51 as the basic (everyone should own one) classic vintage FP. I have one. They write very well and are very reliable. Personally, I don't love the styling (I prefer the classic cigar or similar look). I have a Pelikan m215 and love it. Was going to go for an 800, but use it mostly at work and didn't want to carry that weight or risk losing it (though I may reconsider).

You can always post a WTB for a 'user grade' Parker 51 Aero' on FPN. I did that a while ago and got a few offers though I ended up buying one off ebay for about $50 and it was in quite good shape.

[Taz]

Agree with the Parker 51 as the basic (everyone should own one) classic vintage FP. I have one. They write very well and are very reliable. Personally, I don't love the styling (I prefer the classic cigar or similar look). I have a Pelikan m215 and love it. Was going to go for an 800, but use it mostly at work and didn't want to carry that weight or risk losing it (though I may reconsider).

You can always post a WTB for a 'user grade' Parker 51 Aero' on FPN. I did that a while ago and got a few offers though I ended up buying one off ebay for about $50 and it was in quite good shape.

After the show got a couple of 51"s have the 800 and love it and us it daily for work high use. Some of the new ones will share time but the 800 is a great pen for heavy use.

[Suzuki]

After the show got a couple of 51"s have the 800 and love it and us it daily for work high use. Some of the new ones will share time but the 800 is a great pen for heavy use.

I agree 100% about the 800.

I don't care what anyone else says, as far as I'm concerned, the 800 is the benchmark in terms of functionality/writing quality. I've had mine for a couple of years and its a real workhorse.

You can spend more on a fountain pen, but its unlikely it will write any better.

[Dennis]

Heh, glad you enjoyed the show Don. Still waiting for those pics though... I am ready to drool over a 51 DJ. :biggrin:

Dennis

[Rufus]

I think every FP collection ought to include the following pens: Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel with a two-tone gold Triumph nib, a Sheaffer Pen For Men snorkel, an Esterbrook J double jewel and a Parker 51. There are a myriad of vintage pens out there all with their supporters, but IMO the ones I have listed are key "landmark" pens. Moreover, good quality vintage pens can be had a fraction of the cost of the modern "prestige"/lifestyle pens and there are several highly respected craftsmen pen repairers who can put (and keep) your vintage FP in tip-top running order. Spend a bit of time reviewing the reference material on Richard Binder's website and you should be able to get a good idea of the vintage pen world. Now if I could only find a Wahl Eversharp Doric in mint/NM condition with a medium nib - pen heaven for me.

[Taz]

Heh, glad you enjoyed the show Don. Still waiting for those pics though... I am ready to drool over a 51 DJ. :biggrin:

Dennis

This weekend:thumbup1:

[Taz]

I think every FP collection ought to include the following pens: Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel with a two-tone gold Triumph nib, a Sheaffer Pen For Men snorkel, an Esterbrook J double jewel and a Parker 51. There are a myriad of vintage pens out there all with their supporters, but IMO the ones I have listed are key "landmark" pens. Moreover, good quality vintage pens can be had a fraction of the cost of the modern "prestige"/lifestyle pens and there are several highly respected craftsmen pen repairers who can put (and keep) your vintage FP in tip-top running order. Spend a bit of time reviewing the reference material on Richard Binder's website and you should be able to get a good idea of the vintage pen world. Now if I could only find a Wahl Eversharp Doric in mint/NM condition with a medium nib - pen heaven for me.

Half way there

[Rufus]

Taz, get me all the way there...please, please and pretty please. Do you have one of my elusive pens, per chance?

[bbqncigars]

I'd personally add the Namiki VP to that list, but it seems that I already have three out of your four listed anyway.:biggrin: I noticed you also didn't specify which nib on the Estie. :rolleyes:


Wayne

[Rufus]

I like the medium nibs on the Estie: 1551, 2668 and 9668. But I have a 2968 broad stub and 2284 broad on order, so this could change.

[farace]

I think every FP collection ought to include the following pens: Sheaffer Valiant Snorkel with a two-tone gold Triumph nib, a Sheaffer Pen For Men snorkel, an Esterbrook J double jewel and a Parker 51.

I've got several Esties and a "51"; I've got a Statesman snorkel with silvertone Triumph nib rather than the Valiant. No PFM, but I do have a 1939 Parker Vacumatic and a Sheaffer Vac-fill both being repaired by Richard Binder right now. I think, though, that the Eversharp Skyline needs to be added to the list.

[hereandnow]

I've got a question: I know that you can buy various brands and colors of bottled fountain pen inks online, but are there any brick-and-mortar stores that sell a good variety of them?

[bbqncigars]

Look around for a stationery or art supply store. The nearest one to me is 30 miles. If you're looking into inks, try an ink sampler from here (http://www.peartreepens.com/). Fast shipping and a nice selection to choose from.

Wayne

[farace]

If you're in a big city, you might find B&Ms to supply you. NYC, for instance, has the Fountain Pen Hospital and Joon Pen and probably a few others. Out here I'm lucky to find a bottle of Quink at Staples, or a bottle of Skrip at what's left of a stationery story. I can forget about finding anything other than blue, black, or blue-black. So really, it depends on where you are.

[SMG]

Heh, glad you enjoyed the show Don. Still waiting for those pics though... I am ready to drool over a 51 DJ. :biggrin:

Dennis

How about this DJ 51 I restored it for a friend in Toronto a while back.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/Ragnarok69/doublejewel51editcopy.jpg

If you are looking for Pen Porn, I'm your guy:rolleyes:

I was at the Michigan Pen show this year, and I believe that Al Mayman had a pile of 51's in DJ, and yes Al's prices are top end. DJ 51's are not easy to come by but are very nice pens. I am a Vacumatic guy, love them, was my first vintage pen, but I rarely use anything except my 51 flighter with a stub BB nib now.

Cheers,
Sean

[SMG]

Oh, and if you like Pelikan's here is the image for you.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/Ragnarok69/IMG_3587.jpg

Pelikan M800, M400 and Vintage 100

Cheers,
Sean

[Finnigan]

I just rediscovered my Grandfather's FP. It looks very much like the Parker DJ51 above, but with a sloghtly different cap. I have looked around online a bit, but I am having a bit of trouble completely ID'ing the model.

The closest I came was on this page: http://www.pensandwatches.com/_pages/parker51s2.html

My pen looks almost exactally like the pen in the last set on this page. Mine has the same cap, which is uningraved. Mine is pretty much the same color, and has the nib shroud. Mine does NOT have any engraving near the band on the body. Mine DOES have my grandfather's name engraved along the body. mine has an aluminum pump in the bottom instead of the plastic this one has.

My pen is writing after I got some shafer ink into it. However, I'm noticing ink is showing up around the plunger, so I imagine it could use a new bladder, and probably a cleaning.

I have a few questions if anyone could help.

1. Where would be best to get this cleaned and repaired?
2. Roughly, what kind of cost am I looking at?
3. Anyone know from the description what model it might be?
4. Any particular care tips? Should it be stored point up, or horizontally when ink is in it? Should ink be drained before pen is stored for any period of time? Any special ink I should use, or is the Schaffer okay? etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

PS, I also have a Waterman 94 in grey pearl with red flecks that is in poor condition unfortunately. It has a Red keyhole nib with a broken tine, it has a chip in the edge of the cap, brassing on the metal bits, and I don't think the fill mechanism is working correctly. The arm kind of hangs loose. I'm thinking of putting it on eBay for a parts pen.

[Rufus]

Best places for cleaning and repairing your Parker are Richard Binder and John Mottishaw (Classic Fountain Pens); both chaps have excellent websites and you'll find complete schedules of servicing and repair along with the costs. Be warned though, you'll have a bit of a wait with either, but in my book it's well worth the wait and the cost. Their websites also have excellent reference material on care and maintenance of FPs and a host of FP related matters. Either gent will also be able to fix your Waterman and give it a completely new lease on life.

[farace]

Brian, if you haven't already, check out www.parker51.com for ID info. Keep clicking on the "Next" links at, for instance, the bottoms of the Caps pages, and you'll be shocked at the number of varieties.

Regarding question #4, I dont' worry too much about what position the pen is in when it's not in use. If it's going to be stored for a period of time without being used (more than a few weeks, say), yes, flush any ink out of it. Most any ink designated for fountain pens (Don't use India Ink!) is safe. Some folks have gripes about specific brands in certain pens either being too free-flowing or not flowing enough, but there are no hard and fast rules, and it's common for different people to have different experiences with the same ink. Peruse www.fountainpennetwork.com for more dialog than you could imagine about inks, papers, pens, and anything else related.

[Finnigan]

Wow! Thanks for that link! I know this sounds crazy, but all signs point to me having a "first year" pen. The problem now is I'm afraid to send it for repair, and doing it yourself looks to be complicated for a novice.

Hmmm...

Maybe I should pick up a clunker from ebay for practice if the tools aren't too dear.

[Rufus]

I wouldn't hesitate to send it to Richard Binder or John Mottishaw; if you're concerned about the postal system send it by courier. Unless you are very talented with your hands and eyes and have experience I wouldn't work on it myself. Richard and John do superior work and within reason can trun a sow's ear into a silk purse. Go for the best; it's worth it.

[farace]

If it's a first year, it's a vacumatic 51, and the tool just to open it up costs more than having Richard Binder repair it. I sent him my Vacumatic (not a 51) just for that reason. If I knew I was going to be doing more vacumatic repairs, I might have sprung for the tool, but assuming I only ever get one of these, the decision was easy. It's one of those weird instances where it's cheaper to have a professional do it than to do it yourself (unless you continue to buy vacumatic pens needing repair). Richard has (or had--it's probably grown a little) a 12-week waiting list on repairs. I'm due to get my pens (also sent a Vac-fill Sheaffer and a Pelikan 120) back in a couple of weeks. (BTW, I sent my pens in a sturdy corrugated cardboard box with plenty of bubble wrap. No problems, although I did insure it.)

[Dennis]

I sent my "51" to Richard Binder a couple weeks ago. Standard turn around is about 14-16 weeks right now.

Dennis

[SMG]

I just rediscovered my Grandfather's FP. It looks very much like the Parker DJ51 above, but with a sloghtly different cap. I have looked around online a bit, but I am having a bit of trouble completely ID'ing the model.

The closest I came was on this page: http://www.pensandwatches.com/_pages/parker51s2.html

My pen looks almost exactally like the pen in the last set on this page. Mine has the same cap, which is uningraved. Mine is pretty much the same color, and has the nib shroud. Mine does NOT have any engraving near the band on the body. Mine DOES have my grandfather's name engraved along the body. mine has an aluminum pump in the bottom instead of the plastic this one has.

My pen is writing after I got some shafer ink into it. However, I'm noticing ink is showing up around the plunger, so I imagine it could use a new bladder, and probably a cleaning.

I have a few questions if anyone could help.

1. Where would be best to get this cleaned and repaired?
2. Roughly, what kind of cost am I looking at?
3. Anyone know from the description what model it might be?
4. Any particular care tips? Should it be stored point up, or horizontally when ink is in it? Should ink be drained before pen is stored for any period of time? Any special ink I should use, or is the Schaffer okay? etc.

Any help would be appreciated.

PS, I also have a Waterman 94 in grey pearl with red flecks that is in poor condition unfortunately. It has a Red keyhole nib with a broken tine, it has a chip in the edge of the cap, brassing on the metal bits, and I don't think the fill mechanism is working correctly. The arm kind of hangs loose. I'm thinking of putting it on eBay for a parts pen.

Shoot me a PM, I can restore the 51 for you. I would prefer to keep the commercial side of this discussion off of this board though.

As to your other questions,
You have a Parker 51 with Insignia caps. It has the Aluminum Speedline filler which dates it as an early pen. Is it a Double Jewel pen, what is the material of the jewels, plastic or metal?? If there is no date code on the body it might be a first year, but the jewel material will clinch the date for me.
If the filler end is leaking, do not use the pen. It will dump a full load of ink into your pocket if you get it warm. My standard advice is to have any Vacumatic pen restored if you do not know what shape the filler is in. This avoids any embarassing stains.

Once you have the pen restored, store it with the point up, and if you are not going to use it for long periods of time (more than a week or so) empty it and flush with water. Sheaffer ink is fine in the pen, it will not harm it, especially not right now with a bad diaphragm. DO NOT use Superchrome ink in the pen, it will dissolve the innards and create havoc with the collector and ink delivery.

Sounds like your 94 has seen better days, but it might be worth a bit for the lever box and barrel.

PS my turn around is about a week. And if you wish, contact Richard for a reference. :) I know him well.

Cheers,
Sean

[farace]

DO NOT use Superchrome ink in the pen, it will dissolve the innards and create havoc with the collector and ink delivery.

Sean, this might be my naivete acting up, and I know some folks use vintage inks, but is Superchrome still produced? I was under the impression it was long out of production, but I might be mixing it up in my head with something else.

[ScottS]

If it's a first year, it's a vacumatic 51, and the tool just to open it up costs more than having Richard Binder repair it. I sent him my Vacumatic (not a 51) just for that reason. If I knew I was going to be doing more vacumatic repairs, I might have sprung for the tool, but assuming I only ever get one of these, the decision was easy. It's one of those weird instances where it's cheaper to have a professional do it than to do it yourself (unless you continue to buy vacumatic pens needing repair). Richard has (or had--it's probably grown a little) a 12-week waiting list on repairs. I'm due to get my pens (also sent a Vac-fill Sheaffer and a Pelikan 120) back in a couple of weeks. (BTW, I sent my pens in a sturdy corrugated cardboard box with plenty of bubble wrap. No problems, although I did insure it.)

Binder recommends Tryphon for tools. Small world. If you want to get into pens, I think the Vacuumatic bladders routinely go bad over decades, so you can save plenty of money buying pens in need of repair-- and you won't have a three month wait. I think Binder sells cheap beaters that you can practice up on.

[TULIP]

Sean, this might be my naivete acting up, and I know some folks use vintage inks, but is Superchrome still produced? I was under the impression it was long out of production, but I might be mixing it up in my head with something else.

No, it's no longer produced, but you can still find it as a vintage ink, and lots of old Parker ephemera recommend Superchrome inks.

This, from Richard Binder's web site, found here: http://www.richardspens.com/?page=ref_info/glossary/S.htm

Superchrome®
Parker’s registered trademark name for a proprietary fountain-pen ink introduced in 1948 to replace the company’s superfast-drying but highly corrosive “51” ink. Superchrome’s principal selling features were its brilliant colors (produced by the use of metallic dyes) and its quick drying; but it too contained isopropyl alcohol and was rather corrosive (pH approximately 12), and Parker withdrew it in 1956. See also “51”.

[farace]

I think Binder sells cheap beaters that you can practice up on.

Oh, I've got enough to practice on; I've replaced sacs in several Esterbrooks and a few other pens, and rebuilt a Snorkel without any problem. It's just that in the case of the Vacumatic, it didn't make economic sense to do it myself. It's not that I didn't want to tear into the thing! I have no doubt that I could have done it. I've got enough other pens to keep me happy that I didn't mind the wait.

[SMG]

I only mentioned the Superchrome ink as occasionally someone will find an old pen AND ink bottle and decide to give it a whirl.

Vacs arent that hard to restore, you just have to know the ins and outs and want to invest in the tools. The vac tool is only one of the parts needed. I use a dremel as well to remove the pellet from the pocket, as do most of the well known restoration people. Section sealant is needed (Tryphon) as well, shellac really doesn't do that good a job in this application.

There is a definite workflow to Vacs, if you do it out of order you are asking for trouble. I have done about 100 or so and occasionally there is something new that jumps up and surprises me.

Cheers,
Sean

[ScottS]

Oh, I've got enough to practice on; I've replaced sacs in several Esterbrooks and a few other pens, and rebuilt a Snorkel without any problem. It's just that in the case of the Vacumatic, it didn't make economic sense to do it myself. It's not that I didn't want to tear into the thing! I have no doubt that I could have done it. I've got enough other pens to keep me happy that I didn't mind the wait.

Let me know if you find something fast and reasonably priced. If got dad's striped Vacuumatic with a bad bladder. I'd love to use it.

[farace]

Let me know if you find something fast and reasonably priced. If got dad's striped Vacuumatic with a bad bladder. I'd love to use it.

Well, certainly consider Sean. As he mentioned a few posts earlier, his turnaround is about a week. He's well known and posts regularly on FPN; I think he'd be busier if it wasn't for a general reluctance of many of us to ship pens across the border. The post is slow sometimes, but if you're anxious to get it done, it's certainly much faster than Richard Binder's waiting period. I can't say I've done a lot of cross-border mailing, but it seems US to Canada is faster than the other way. I traded some blades with another B&B member, and it took about a week longer for his blades to reach me than vice versa. I don't know if it's just since 9/11, but incoming mail seems to have slowed down.

[Rufus]

I do the majority of my FP and shaving gear purchasing cross-border and have only once had a problem. My preference is to use registered mail and I find you should expect a package to take from 10 days to two weeks. Given the poor selection and cost of FPs and shaving gear in Canada I'm quite happy to wait for my purchases to wend their way through the USPS/Canada Post labyrinth. I don't like using FedEx, UPS,etc. as they usually charge a $30brokerage fee for clearing Canada Customs if the vendor hasn't made special arrangements with them.

[ScottS]

Well, certainly consider Sean. As he mentioned a few posts earlier, his turnaround is about a week. He's well known and posts regularly on FPN; I think he'd be busier if it wasn't for a general reluctance of many of us to ship pens across the border. The post is slow sometimes, but if you're anxious to get it done, it's certainly much faster than Richard Binder's waiting period. I can't say I've done a lot of cross-border mailing, but it seems US to Canada is faster than the other way. I traded some blades with another B&B member, and it took about a week longer for his blades to reach me than vice versa. I don't know if it's just since 9/11, but incoming mail seems to have slowed down.

If it wasn't my dad's pen, I'd certainly ask Sean to do it, but I'd rather avoid subjecting it to the whim's of two custom's agencies. The pen is worth pennies, as dad never had money-- I don't even think the nib is gold-- and I certainly have pens that probably write better (His 51 is in my pocket now, in fact), but non-trackable shipping isn't an option.

[Rufus]

I've sent pens to the US for repair and not had a problem with either custom agencies. If the cutoms' declarartions are made out properly (and truthfully) there should be no issue. I use registered mail because it is trackable; I believe it is Richard Binder's preferred method for cross-border transactions.

[ScottS]

I use registered mail because it is trackable

Not to the level of knowing what truck its on at any given minute.