Almost a year with straights,Journal entry.

[mycarver]

I think I'm starting to like straights and I'm growing fond of them,,,,What else can I say but look what you guys have done to me. Don't even ask about my DE collection,, or brushes,, or ,, or,,,or,,,
And no,, nothing is for sale. I foolishly sold two and I miss them dearly. In my rotation I'll see each one at least 3 times in a year.

[paco664]

third row... second from the bottom...

i am soooo lusting after that one.... you have no idea....

[windycityshaver]

My jaw just dropped; I can't get it to close again.

[KeithTheSnake]

Dude, you gotta disease.

[mycarver]

Dude, you gotta disease.



I'm only offering this as a warning to anyone considering straight razor shaving. This is your mind,, these are straights,, this is your mind on straights. Once they get under your skin ( in a manner of speaking, not literal ) you can't go back to anything else.
Just kiss your wallet good-bye.

[Grips]

I'm.....not....sure......what......to....say.

[Legion]

Living in Australia keeps my SRAD a little bit under control. We don't have the range or quantity of razors in the wild that you guys have, and paying international post to get things sent from overseas is prohibitive, if indeed the seller will ship internationally at all. Probably for the best, because I have the same condition you do.

[CanisiusHistGrad]

After SWMBO sees this, she won't mind my small collection, as long as I can keep it to less than half of that...

[mycarver]

Living in Australia keeps my SRAD a little bit under control. We don't have the range or quantity of razors in the wild that you guys have, and paying international post to get things sent from overseas is prohibitive, if indeed the seller will ship internationally at all. Probably for the best, because I have the same condition you do.

Well, I have no control or built in filters. Hate to admit it,, but I got 5 more today. No I don't hate it, I like it. Wish I could help you out. Around my parts these things practically fall in my pocket.99.9 percent were found in the wild. I did ( why I don't know) bought two off E-bay. Most of them were $10.00 or less. Really,, can you blame me? Wouldn't you do the same? Please tell me you would. It would ease my troubled mind.

[Kentos]

Where the heck are the Kamisori!!?!



:lol:

[mycarver]

Where the heck are the Kamisori!!?!

I'm gonna make 'em myself. That's the next item on my to do list. Heck,, with what I've done to most of these,, why not?

[Kentos]

I'm gonna make 'em myself. That's the next item on my to do list. Heck,, with what I've done to most of these,, why not?

Hehe...just giving you a hard time. I think everyone needs at least one.

[Lexbomb]

Wow....very impressive

[mycarver]

Hehe...just giving you a hard time. I think everyone needs at least one.
Oh I know,, and you're right,,,, I NEED one,or two or three. But after using my York,, and reading the posts I just have to have one.But at the prices i've seen I could pick up how many of my usual razors. But a Kamisori is the next logical step for a warped mind to follow. I'm looking at steel, found some guys with a kiln... it's only a matter of time. It's a good place to start. I'm excited to try my hand at it. Lets just see what happens. If nothing else, I'm sure I can make it look good ,I hope. Might shave like cr*p but I'll do it. To a warped mind, anything seems logical. Even buying more razors than you really need.

[shakin_jake]

Very nice workmanship on your razor restorations Mark. If I may ask, what procedures and techniques are using to clean up the metal when doing a full blade restoration?


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

[mycarver]

Oh my Jake. That's a loaded question and knowing me a lengthy answer. The short answer is lots of sand paper , some power and a final polish with a buffer. Nothing keeps a blade beautiful like sand paper. Nothing kills it like a buffer.

[dreka]

third row... second from the bottom...

i am soooo lusting after that one.... you have no idea....

If that razor is what I think it is...perhaps you and I need to talk :001_tongu

[Legion]

Oh my Jake. That's a loaded question and knowing me a lengthy answer. The short answer is lots of sand paper , some power and a final polish with a buffer. Nothing keeps a blade beautiful like sand paper. Nothing kills it like a buffer.

Except a Dremel. But at least a Dremel wont fling the razor into a wall. Or the ceiling. Or...

[mycarver]

Except a Dremel. But at least a Dremel wont fling the razor into a wall. Or the ceiling. Or...
True, but discretion is the better part of valor.

Ya' gotta know what you're doing. And know when to quit.If you're not familiar with buffers, they can do a lot of damage, as can a Dremel as several recent posts have proved.For me personally I don't care for doing a blade with a buffer for several reason. I could do them that way in a jiffy but I won't.

[shakin_jake]

Oh my Jake. That's a loaded question and knowing me a lengthy answer. The short answer is lots of sand paper , some power and a final polish with a buffer. Nothing keeps a blade beautiful like sand paper. Nothing kills it like a buffer.


~~~I had an idea you got out some paper and went to work in order to remove the scratches I saw in some of your razors. At this point, I haven't moved past cleaning up *some* of my finds using anything more than black compound on a wheel
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6130/6016320834_eb8ea5d008_z.jpg
I was inspired after watching undreams's video set, but at this point I ahven't moved forward with acquiring any of the various greaseless buffing compounds and the necessary various wheels. Plus, another bladesmith talked me out of going that route (citing the resulting mess), and he did mention using sandpaper, some by hand, some on the rubber wheel in the chuck of a drill press

I've always admired when someone takes a sow's ear and turns it into a silk purse, but at this point with the vintage razors I have (needing work), I've cleaned them up enough to hone and shave with them. In regards to killing them with a buffer, I'm mindful to keep a large pail of water next to the buffer and cool the metal down fast at the first hint of it picking up BTU's


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

[shakin_jake]

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/images/styles/RoyalFlush/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by legionhttp://badgerandblade.com/vb/images/styles/RoyalFlush/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=3796066#post3796066)
Except a Dremel. But at least a Dremel wont fling the razor into a wall. Or the ceiling. Or...






True, but discretion is the better part of valor.

Ya' gotta know what you're doing. And know when to quit.If you're not familiar with buffers, they can do a lot of damage, as can a Dremel as several recent posts have proved.For me personally I don't care for doing a blade with a buffer for several reason. I could do them that way in a jiffy but I won't.

~~~I understand what you are saying. If you're not careful you can lose the temper on a blade. That said, many moons ago I worked in a shop and had plenty of experience working on large belt sanders and other spinning tools...I worked in a refrigeration sub component assembly shop...we made dryers, filters, and believe it or not, solar panel covers, for refrigerant charged solar systems


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

[CanisiusHistGrad]

Well, I have no control or built in filters. Hate to admit it,, but I got 5 more today. No I don't hate it, I like it. Wish I could help you out. Around my parts these things practically fall in my pocket.99.9 percent were found in the wild. I did ( why I don't know) bought two off E-bay. Most of them were $10.00 or less. Really,, can you blame me? Wouldn't you do the same? Please tell me you would. It would ease my troubled mind.

For $10 or less, I'd have bought everything that crossed my path!

[Legion]

For $10 or less, I'd have bought everything that crossed my path!

+1

[johnmrson]

Very nice collection.

[Wid]

Real nice.

[mycarver]

~~~I had an idea you got out some paper and went to work in order to remove the scratches I saw in some of your razors. At this point, I haven't moved past cleaning up *some* of my finds using anything more than black compound on a wheel
http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6130/6016320834_eb8ea5d008_z.jpg
I was inspired after watching undreams's video set, but at this point I ahven't moved forward with acquiring any of the various greaseless buffing compounds and the necessary various wheels. Plus, another bladesmith talked me out of going that route (citing the resulting mess), and he did mention using sandpaper, some by hand, some on the rubber wheel in the chuck of a drill press

I've always admired when someone takes a sow's ear and turns it into a silk purse, but at this point with the vintage razors I have (needing work), I've cleaned them up enough to hone and shave with them. In regards to killing them with a buffer, I'm mindful to keep a large pail of water next to the buffer and cool the metal down fast at the first hint of it picking up BTU's


Best,







Jake
Reddick Fla.


Heat can be an issue from a buffer or a Dremel. That's relatively easy to control. But that or them getting flung across the room isn't what I was thinking about. I personally don't care for the look of a blade done only on a buffer.

[shakin_jake]

Heat can be an issue from a buffer or a Dremel. That's relatively easy to control. But that or them getting flung across the room isn't what I was thinking about. I personally don't care for the look of a blade done only on a buffer.


~~~since your screen name contains 'carver', we'll defer the fact you know a thing or two about wood, and sandpaper. Say someone doesn't know much about sandpaper (Me=:-) ...if I were to attempt to refinish a straight razor blade using sandpaper, where would you suggest I start w/grit, progression, technique? ~Thanking you in advance~


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.

[mycarver]

Jake,
My screen name is my initials , and yes, I'm a carver. Clever huh? The choice of grit will depend largely on the amount of rust/pitting/scratches on the blade so it would be difficult to just give you a number to start with. Generally I want to start with the highest grit to leave the least amount of scratches but still remove whatever blemish is seen and work up from there.
One thing to do is to back up the paper with something other than your fingers. One, the edge has no problem slicing through paper , and your finger as you're trying to sand the piece. And two, paper cuts better when backed up. This can be anything from a dowel, a rubber tube ( think garden hose/radiator hose etc.) that you wrap the paper around. This helps the cutting action and the square edge allows you to get into the shoulder area to get that cleaned up without ruining the details as a buffer alone will do as it will just round everything over.
Working by hand will get the job done but it does take time and effort. If you have access to power, spinning the sandpaper can dramatically speed up the process. This hold true for any type of sanding operation where you are getting something ready for the final polish which is the job of the buffer.
Think sanding woodwork, or body work in an automotive application. The surface is sanded first using sanding blocks to level the surface and remove pits, scratches or even out the surface prior to the final finish/polish. It's the same principles found anywhere. Using a buffer ( unless the blade is just slightly tarnished ) to me is putting the cart before the horse and using a tool to do a job it wasn't intended to do.
Just yesterday I did a test blade on an old Morely & Son that was rusted beyond belief. On one side I used a buffer and the other sanded. Now it was an extreme example but I was able to make the blade look pretty much like new. By sanding. And I didn't loose the details on the Makers stamp,lose the edge on the shoulders, didn't loose the line on the spine etc..
In this case I used 120, 320, 600 and ended up with a very nice looking blade. Take it a step further and it would literally be a mirror. And next time you're shaving , look at the mirror. It's not just shiny,, it's perfectly smooth without any scratches or pits.
If you're just looking for a shiny razor, buffing will do it. So will a tumbler.They make everything shiny, the pits, scratches whatever. If you are looking for a mirror finish with nice details left intact sanding is the way to start. There are no short cuts.Something will be compromised. It's something I've adhered for over 25 yrs. of restoring, refinishing, polishing any number of things.
It's my opinion of how to do it,, but my test blade proves it in a dramatic example.

[shakin_jake]

If you have access to power, spinning the sandpaper can dramatically speed up the process.




~~~are you using sanding drums, like this when you refer to sanding via power?

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/sanding_drums.htm

I ask as I have a bench top drill press I could mount these drums in, then attach strips of sand paper (various appropriate grits) with double backed tape?, then hold the blade up to the drum while it is rotating?...is this how you do it? If not, what are you using when you refer to 'spinning the sandpaper'?






This hold true for any type of sanding operation where you are getting something ready for the final polish which is the job of the buffer.




~~~when you use a buffing wheel *after* sanding, which compounds do you normally use?

Thank you for all of your tips on bladesmithing Mark...it's red meat for a tenderfoot like me=:-)

I'd like to get my feet wet sanding a straight razor I wouldn't mind using for my first time...I have a few of those=:-)

One more questions while I'm thinking about it... What is your sanding recommendation for straight razors that were originally plated?


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.