You guys are killing me

[Dave258]

Now you have me looking at The Fountain Pen Network....

Should I even ask what you guys suggest for someone who loves the $9.99 (or however much it costs) Parker Jotter? I really like that pen. The all metal one.

[Miles]

Just be sure to stay away from www.bladeforums.com to avoid the dreaded total whammy trifecta of manly arts and sciences.

Cheapest fountain pen I would recommend would be either a Kaweco sport with a fine nib or better yet a Lamy Safari in fine nib as well. I think both of these are over $10.00, but not much. The safari's around $30 IIRC.

If you really like that Parker, keep an eye out for an old Parker 51. Maybe at swapmeets, or FPN, or some literate elderly relative's house.

[Groat]

The TWSBI is a great pen as well if you're willing to swing for a $40 pen.

[Dave258]

Just be sure to stay away from www.bladeforums.com to avoid the dreaded total whammy trifecta of manly arts and sciences.

Cheapest fountain pen I would recommend would be either a Kaweco sport with a fine nib or better yet a Lamy Safari in fine nib as well. I think both of these are over $10.00, but not much. The safari's around $30 IIRC.

If you really like that Parker, keep an eye out for an old Parker 51. Maybe at swapmeets, or FPN, or some literate elderly relative's house.


The TWSBI is a great pen as well if you're willing to swing for a $40 pen.

So far, I like all three that have been suggested. It doesn't look like the Kaweco is available right now.
Question about fountain pens, do you need special paper?

[Groat]

Question about fountain pens, do you need special paper?

No, and at the same time yes. Any ol' paper you have sitting around will work. Some work better than others, though. Before using FPs, paper was paper to me. Now I can see the difference quite quickly when writing.

First of all, papers have different thicknesses. Thin papers can have 'bleed through,' where the ink comes through to the other side of the paper. 'Feathering' can happen as well, where the ink leeches from the line you put down and the line gets less distinct. Both bleed through and feathering depend both on the paper, the pen and the ink you use. Papers also have different smoothnesses, which I find to not be such a huge deal. However, very smooth paper can make a pen less 'toothy.' Smooth paper also tends to dry slower than more fibrous papers.

In practical terms, I find that a range of papers are suitable for fountain pen use. There are specialty manufacturers like Rhodia whose paper is excellent for FP use, but often considerably more expensive than other papers. I often use a ream of inkjet paper I use in my printer and that seems to work pretty well. There are several ranges from big box retailers that work well with them. It has been my experience that very thin paper, like the notebook paper or legal tabs you get from Wal-Mart, are not the best to use.

[touchdowntodd]

i got SUPER into them once.. got a few and then gave them to my boss, i saw the addiction coming LOL

[htownmmm]

Now you have me looking at The Fountain Pen Network....

Should I even ask what you guys suggest for someone who loves the $9.99 (or however much it costs) Parker Jotter? I really like that pen. The all metal one.

There's a Fountain Pen Network? :yikes::yikes::yikes:



marty

[Dave258]

No, and at the same time yes. Any ol' paper you have sitting around will work. Some work better than others, though. Before using FPs, paper was paper to me. Now I can see the difference quite quickly when writing.

First of all, papers have different thicknesses. Thin papers can have 'bleed through,' where the ink comes through to the other side of the paper. 'Feathering' can happen as well, where the ink leeches from the line you put down and the line gets less distinct. Both bleed through and feathering depend both on the paper, the pen and the ink you use. Papers also have different smoothnesses, which I find to not be such a huge deal. However, very smooth paper can make a pen less 'toothy.' Smooth paper also tends to dry slower than more fibrous papers.

In practical terms, I find that a range of papers are suitable for fountain pen use. There are specialty manufacturers like Rhodia whose paper is excellent for FP use, but often considerably more expensive than other papers. I often use a ream of inkjet paper I use in my printer and that seems to work pretty well. There are several ranges from big box retailers that work well with them. It has been my experience that very thin paper, like the notebook paper or legal tabs you get from Wal-Mart, are not the best to use.


Thanks for the info. I guess I have more looking to do.

[Roobaix]

Now you have me looking at The Fountain Pen Network....

I was doing the same thing last week. I had to just close out all of the tabs I had open on pens. I'm still thinking about it, but I can't get into this too...I've got too many hobbies.

[njpaddy]

I got two fountain pens last month. I'm satisfied with only 2 for now. If you want to try a nice cheap one try a Pilot 78G (http://cgi.ebay.com/Pilot-Namiki-Gold-Ring-Fountain-Pen-FP-78G-Green-M-Nib_W0QQitemZ110657164849QQcategoryZ967QQcmdZViewI temQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26it s%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252 BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D120674314585%26ps%3D63%26 clkid%3D7614244593324831932). The Med point in this pen is close to a 0.7 Med gel point. It took about 2 weeks to get from this seller. The pen has a screw-on cap, is extremely light and writes very smooth.

[Dave258]

I was doing the same thing last week. I had to just close out all of the tabs I had open on pens. I'm still thinking about it, but I can't get into this too...I've got too many hobbies.

Last night I was looking at a couple of pens, and forced myself to do the same. Just close the browser and walk away. Today what's the first thing I think of... Should I order that Lamy Safari. Its not too much money...


I got two fountain pens last month. I'm satisfied with only 2 for now. If you want to try a nice cheap one try a Pilot 78G (http://cgi.ebay.com/Pilot-Namiki-Gold-Ring-Fountain-Pen-FP-78G-Green-M-Nib_W0QQitemZ110657164849QQcategoryZ967QQcmdZViewI temQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26it s%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252 BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D120674314585%26ps%3D63%26 clkid%3D7614244593324831932). The Med point in this pen is close to a 0.7 Med gel point. It took about 2 weeks to get from this seller. The pen has a screw-on cap, is extremely light and writes very smooth.

Thanks for the link. Its a good pen to start with. Maybe I will order this to start.

[Miles]

My first and favorite daily user fountain pen: Lamy safari, fine nib, charcoal black w converter. I use it nearly every day, and would recommend it to others interested in getting into fp's.

One thing to consider: you'll have an easy time of reselling any fountain pen you come across that does not agree with you. There are plenty of folks on B&B who would snap one up, not to mention the kind people at FPN.

[Groat]

I got two fountain pens last month. I'm satisfied with only 2 for now. If you want to try a nice cheap one try a Pilot 78G (http://cgi.ebay.com/Pilot-Namiki-Gold-Ring-Fountain-Pen-FP-78G-Green-M-Nib_W0QQitemZ110657164849QQcategoryZ967QQcmdZViewI temQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26it s%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252 BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D120674314585%26ps%3D63%26 clkid%3D7614244593324831932). The Med point in this pen is close to a 0.7 Med gel point. It took about 2 weeks to get from this seller. The pen has a screw-on cap, is extremely light and writes very smooth.

Jetpens.com has the Pilot 78G in stock right now, within a few dollars of that ebay retailer. As jetpens is is California and not Hong Kong, it should get to you much faster. Jetpens has free shipping on orders over $25, so a bottle of ink and maybe some paper on top of that pen should get you over the hurdle.

Note that I haven't ever ordered from Jetpens, I've just heard good things. I also haven't used a 78G, but I have found Pilot pens to be good.

[BRuhling]

Jetpens.com has the Pilot 78G in stock right now, within a few dollars of that ebay retailer. As jetpens is is California and not Hong Kong, it should get to you much faster. Jetpens has free shipping on orders over $25, so a bottle of ink and maybe some paper on top of that pen should get you over the hurdle.

Note that I haven't ever ordered from Jetpens, I've just heard good things. I also haven't used a 78G, but I have found Pilot pens to be good.

I have ordered from JetPens (iroshizuku ink, not pens), and their service was outstanding. My order arrived in two days!

[Miles]

i have ordered from jetpens (iroshizuku ink, not pens), and their service was outstanding. My order arrived in two days!

+1

[Dave258]

Well, the Pilot 78G looks pretty nice for a $12.50 pen. Maybe I will buy that to see if I like it before ordering the lamy.
Now, back to jetpens.com. Thanks for posting that site, and enabling me to spend more money.

[Groat]

Well, the Pilot 78G looks pretty nice for a $12.50 pen. Maybe I will buy that to see if I like it before ordering the lamy.
Now, back to jetpens.com. Thanks for posting that site, and enabling me to spend more money.

Well, we're nothing if not enablers here. :lol:

[Dave258]

Edit... I didn't read everything. It comes with a converter.

[Dave258]

Thanks everyone! I ended up ordering the Pilot 78G. I ordered an extra converter, and a bottle of Waterman Nostalgia Black ink. Now, can I sign up for the special group buy B&B Ink.
I got to take a break from this site for a while. Give my wallet a rest!

Thanks again!

[Groat]

You'll have to let us know how the 78G works out for you. That price is a great deal for a pen that comes with the converter, as often times they are sold separately on cheaper pens. Also, my Pilot/Namiki pens have always just worked. Take them out of the box, insert ink, start writing. No adjustment, break in, nada. If these 78Gs are the same way, I just might pick some up to start my friends and family on the slippery slope.

[Dave258]

You'll have to let us know how the 78G works out for you. That price is a great deal for a pen that comes with the converter, as often times they are sold separately on cheaper pens. Also, my Pilot/Namiki pens have always just worked. Take them out of the box, insert ink, start writing. No adjustment, break in, nada. If these 78Gs are the same way, I just might pick some up to start my friends and family on the slippery slope.

I will let you know. I just got the email from Jetpens.com that they shipped today. I can't believe how excited I am about getting a $12.00 pen...
Maybe it is because I know it will end up leading to more pens...

[BlackAngus]

The TWSBI is a great pen as well if you're willing to swing for a $40 pen.

+1 on the TWSBI...it's been a half of my daily 2-pen rotation since the day I got it, a couple of months ago. Fantastic pen for the price point, better than many pens that cost much more.

[Dave258]

The TWSBI is a great pen as well if you're willing to swing for a $40 pen.


+1 on the TWSBI...it's been a half of my daily 2-pen rotation since the day I got it, a couple of months ago. Fantastic pen for the price point, better than many pens that cost much more.

Those are nice pens. Do you know how they compare to the Lamy Safari... Not that I would know the difference yet. I am trying to fight the urge to buy one now before the other one gets here... Even though it was only $12.50 for the pilot 78g.

[Groat]

Those are nice pens. Do you know how they compare to the Lamy Safari... Not that I would know the difference yet. I am trying to fight the urge to buy one now before the other one gets here... Even though it was only $12.50 for the pilot 78g.

The TWSBI is different in several ways. First of all, it's a piston filler. This means it has an integral filling mechanism and does not use a converter or cartridges. The advantage is the fact that piston fillers generally hold a good deal more ink than most converters. The TWSBI is also meant to be user serviceable from top to bottom. It includes instructions on how to take the entire thing apart and comes with a tool to unscrew the filling mechanism.

One thing to note about the TWSBI: they currently only come in demonstrator models. While demonstrators are cool looking, they may not fit into a professional environment. The seals in pens are also not always perfect, and there have been instances of a tiny bit of ink getting behind the piston seal. This isn't really a problem, but if you're OCD at all then it may bother you. You can take the pen apart with the instructions to clean it, but depending on your level of OCD you may never be perfectly happy with it.

[Dave258]

The TWSBI is different in several ways. First of all, it's a piston filler. This means it has an integral filling mechanism and does not use a converter or cartridges. The advantage is the fact that piston fillers generally hold a good deal more ink than most converters. The TWSBI is also meant to be user serviceable from top to bottom. It includes instructions on how to take the entire thing apart and comes with a tool to unscrew the filling mechanism.

One thing to note about the TWSBI: they currently only come in demonstrator models. While demonstrators are cool looking, they may not fit into a professional environment. The seals in pens are also not always perfect, and there have been instances of a tiny bit of ink getting behind the piston seal. This isn't really a problem, but if you're OCD at all then it may bother you. You can take the pen apart with the instructions to clean it, but depending on your level of OCD you may never be perfectly happy with it.

I did notice the difference in amount of ink it would hold vs. a safari with converter. The thing I don't know about ink yet, is how much is enough for a general day of use. But I suppose that is different for everybody.
The demonstrator model, is it just that it is clear, and you can see through it? No big deal for me. I also did see in a youtube video about the ink getting behind the seal, that can't cause any problems? Once taken apart is it easy to clean? Also, in the video, something was mentioned about screwing the cap on, that some have a tendency to cross thread, resulting in not closing correctly. Do you have any issue with that?
Thanks for the help!

[Groat]

I did notice the difference in amount of ink it would hold vs. a safari with converter. The thing I don't know about ink yet, is how much is enough for a general day of use. But I suppose that is different for everybody.
The demonstrator model, is it just that it is clear, and you can see through it? No big deal for me. I also did see in a youtube video about the ink getting behind the seal, that can't cause any problems? Once taken apart is it easy to clean? Also, in the video, something was mentioned about screwing the cap on, that some have a tendency to cross thread, resulting in not closing correctly. Do you have any issue with that?
Thanks for the help!

I find that with my Pelikan M800, a fill (which is about 1.25ml) lasts me a week. That's with moderate writing for school. Of course, different pens hold different amounts and people will write more or less than others. Either way, unless you write a LOT then a single fill will last you more than a day.

Demonstrators are just clear pens. They let you see everything going on inside. If you're just getting a tiny bit of ink behind the seal then it shouldn't be a problem. Lots of ink behind the seal is indicative of a leak. Once a pen is apart, you can just run water through the entire thing. On cartridge/converter pens, I use a solder sucker bulb to push cool water through the nib and feed to help clear it out. As for cross threading, I haven't ever experienced it with any of my screw-cap pens.

[Dave258]

I find that with my Pelikan M800, a fill (which is about 1.25ml) lasts me a week. That's with moderate writing for school. Of course, different pens hold different amounts and people will write more or less than others. Either way, unless you write a LOT then a single fill will last you more than a day.

Demonstrators are just clear pens. They let you see everything going on inside. If you're just getting a tiny bit of ink behind the seal then it shouldn't be a problem. Lots of ink behind the seal is indicative of a leak. Once a pen is apart, you can just run water through the entire thing. On cartridge/converter pens, I use a solder sucker bulb to push cool water through the nib and feed to help clear it out. As for cross threading, I haven't ever experienced it with any of my screw-cap pens.

Cool, thanks for all the help!

[Dave258]

Ok, so I got the Pilot 78 today from jetpens.com. Super fast shipping from California to New York for free.
So first I cleaned out the converter with some room temp water, sucking it in the converter through the nib and shooting it out a couple of times. Then I dried it off real good, shaking the pen so all the water came to the nib side. Then I left it sitting on a paper towel to make sure all of the water was out.
Then I filled it up with the waterman nostalgia black ink. At first, the ink did not seem very dark. It got better after scribbling some lines, so I figured there may have been a little water still in the nib.
Since this is my first fountain pen, I do not have anything to compare it to. It seems ok. The line is very thin, I guess that is because of the fine nib. If I write a bit fast, the ink seems to skip a bit, leaving lines with less ink here and there.
I guess I will give this a go for a couple of days and see what I think.
How much thicker is the line of a med nib over a fine nib?

[Groat]

At first, the ink did not seem very dark. It got better after scribbling some lines, so I figured there may have been a little water still in the nib.
Since this is my first fountain pen, I do not have anything to compare it to. It seems ok. The line is very thin, I guess that is because of the fine nib. If I write a bit fast, the ink seems to skip a bit, leaving lines with less ink here and there.
I guess I will give this a go for a couple of days and see what I think.
How much thicker is the line of a med nib over a fine nib?

I find that pens often write lighter for a bit before putting down more ink later. I think this is because the ink has not saturated the feed completely. It's been my experience that the 'true' color always comes out within an evening. The fine line should be quite fine, as Japanese pens run small when compared to western fountain pens.

I think that you're "give it a couple of days" attitude is a good one. I have several pens that underwhelmed me when I first bought them that have become my favorites now.