View Full Version : Grotty New Before and After
onotoman
02-10-2011, 09:24 AM
Hi Guys
For those who wanted to see the before and after plating pics of that grotty new that I showed a while ago, here you go..
Best Wishes
Dave
Ooops I've shown the wrong head base plate in the 'After' but the other parts are from the 'before' and the head base came out just as good - honest :-)
http://www.razorandsoap.com/newbefore1.jpg
http://www.razorandsoap.com/newafter1.jpg
mattface
02-10-2011, 09:28 AM
very nice! how much does a replate job like that usually run?
onotoman
02-10-2011, 09:47 AM
Thanks :-) - $20 or £15 plus shipping.
very nice! how much does a replate job like that usually run?
mattface
02-10-2011, 09:50 AM
Thanks :-) - $20 or £15 plus shipping.
Nice, I've got a bar handled new like that. Mine's bare copper and brass and looks pretty enough, but I'd like it better nickel plated. Shipping might be a deterrent though.
Chester
02-10-2011, 09:50 AM
Lovely.
I've got a "grotty" Rotbart that could use the same treatment.
-- Chet
drews50
02-10-2011, 10:42 AM
While in it's original condition this razor was heading for someones trash bin. Now it has a prized spot in someones collection. You've given it a new life.
Wetshavemike
02-10-2011, 10:55 AM
Beautiful plate job. Nice piece!!:thumbup1:
inspiringK
02-10-2011, 10:59 AM
That is an impressive change. Good thing to keep in mind.
IronHammer
02-10-2011, 12:12 PM
Very nice! Looks fabulous!
I have a question though. I notice that the plating looks a skoche uneven on the head. Is that normal for replates? Is it not possible to obtain a mirror perfect finish? Please don't think I am not knocking your gorgeous razor, just curious! I would love to have some of mine redone.
I am thinking a particular unnotched 1940's SS, but shipping costs to the UK would be an issue for me. I understand that buddydog does replates as well. Do his have the same beautiful, but ever-so-slightly uneven finish?
-Todd
Holzie
02-10-2011, 12:40 PM
I am going to bet that if you had that razor in your hand you would see a perfect mirror finish. Photographing mirrored surfaces takes incredible photographic skills.
mandoman
02-10-2011, 12:45 PM
:w00t: :tongue_sm
onotoman
02-11-2011, 02:58 AM
Hi Ironhammer,
The finish of the plating is all to do with the underlying metal. With this particular razor, it had gotten to the stage where the surface of the brass has started to pit (or corrode) and although a lot can be polished out, it does remove metal, so it's a bit of a trade-off.
If a razor is replated before it gets ot this stage ,the finish is indeed, as original and mirror-like.
Very nice! Looks fabulous!
I have a question though. I notice that the plating looks a skoche uneven on the head. Is that normal for replates? Is it not possible to obtain a mirror perfect finish? Please don't think I am not knocking your gorgeous razor, just curious! I would love to have some of mine redone.
I am thinking a particular unnotched 1940's SS, but shipping costs to the UK would be an issue for me. I understand that buddydog does replates as well. Do his have the same beautiful, but ever-so-slightly uneven finish?
-Todd
onotoman
02-11-2011, 03:02 AM
It does indeed look better 'in the flesh' most of the marks are dust and finger marks. But, as I mentioned earlier, there was some pitting to the head as this razor had been neglected for so long and although most polish out, there are some imperfections.
At the end of the day though, a razor is a utility item and the finish of the originals are often not 'mirror-like' - it would just take the makers too much effort to achieve under mass production conditions.
I am going to bet that if you had that razor in your hand you would see a perfect mirror finish. Photographing mirrored surfaces takes incredible photographic skills.
fidjit
02-11-2011, 03:18 AM
At the end of the day though, a razor is a utility item and the finish of the originals are often not 'mirror-like' - it would just take the makers too much effort to achieve under mass production conditions.
Except for the British Rhodium Aristocrat series :thumbup:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/limbot/Aristocrat%2021%20Feb%202010/P1010934-1.jpg
Nice job on the replates :thumbup:
akira7799
02-11-2011, 04:05 AM
But, as I mentioned earlier, there was some pitting to the head as this razor had been neglected for so long and although most polish out, there are some imperfections.
Dave,
Correct me if I am wring, but aren't copper alloys, brass and the other majority of safety razor base metals relatively soft?
If this is the case what grit can take care of removing pits in the head without removing an excess of material and leaving grit marks? I'm guessing it's a balance between ultimate finish vs. time and energy expended.
Thanks Dave,
Dave (just trying to make 'the ol' same name joke)
alex2363
02-11-2011, 07:12 AM
good price for replate, onotoman always does wonders.
IronHammer
02-11-2011, 07:22 AM
I have to wonder about the time it would take to get things back from the UK with all of these int'l shipping delays lately. I am still waiting for package from Bulgaria that was sent the week after Christmas.
-Todd
onotoman
02-12-2011, 06:53 AM
Hi Dave
You are correct, most razors are made from brass and usually, the areas of most wear - such as the handle section and top of the head are copper plated before nickel plating - this copper helps the nickel to 'stick' better. Copper can also be used to cover imperfections by building up a coating then polishing.
As for polishing, I tend to use fine wet and dry paper then wire wool of a fine grade too. A final buff on a wheel usually gives a nice finish ready for plating.
Pits can be removed either by sanding - if not to deep or filling with silver solder or similar if deep. As mentioed though, it's all effort versus finished result. If it's a rare Aristocrat or something, then a lot of effort is justified - but a run of the mill Tech may not justify the effort
Best wishes
Dave (2)
Dave,
Correct me if I am wring, but aren't copper alloys, brass and the other majority of safety razor base metals relatively soft?
If this is the case what grit can take care of removing pits in the head without removing an excess of material and leaving grit marks? I'm guessing it's a balance between ultimate finish vs. time and energy expended.
Thanks Dave,
Dave (just trying to make 'the ol' same name joke)
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