Green & White Ever-Ready

[SpartanFan]

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[SpartanFan]

This is an Ever-Ready that I found in the wild that was an excellent canidate for restoration. The removal of the old knot went fairly straight forward. I always try and remove all of the old rubber/glue/epoxy that held the old knot in place. I have seen some brushes that have been discolored by the aging of the old glue material and I figure that it is worth getting all the old stuff out and start clean. One issue that can arrise when doing this is that the inside of the handle will be convex in shape and could possibly fill in with water and mold with a new knot. The way I have solved this is to coat the inside of the handle with epoxy several times to build the walls up. Then I can sand a good shaped opening for the knot. The easiest way I have found to do this is with the application of quick set epoxy and then rolling it on it's side to ensure an even thin coating. I end up doing several coats of epoxy this way. The end result is nice fitting opening that just needs a final bit of epoxy and the new knot placed in. I put in a 22mm Finest Badger from the Golden Nib. The loft is set to 51mm and it has a total height of 112mm.


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[Kentos]

Beautiful job! How do you get that mirror finish on the plastic?

[Mack]

Nice work!

[brianw]

Thanks Spartanfan....added to the SB compendium

[Piff]

...Bwah...

[arclight]

Thanks for the tip. Great job, love the green a beautiful brush!

[Hex]

You've ruined my day Spartan. I must have one like that.

And just for that, "GO WOLVERINES" !!

[Ids]

Stunning brush! I really want one like that!

+1 on how you got it so shiney! Also how did you get the lettering back?

[cernel_joson]

Holy smokes that's gorgeous. Very elegant brush. Did you put a clear coat on it or something?

[SpartanFan]

Thanks for the comments. The finish is not clear coat. I use automotive paint for the lettering - it polishes well. The handle gets hand sanded with sand paper through 1500 grit then a rubbing compound polish, then a polishing compound polish, the Maas polish, then Flitz polish. I find that doing it by hand and taking it through the steps ends up with a nice finish. When first learning I tried using a Dremel and quickly learned that the small buffing wheels heat up and melt plastic very quickly ruining a good brush.

[cernel_joson]

:thumbup: Thumbs up for doing it the right way. You're right, the hand polishing really makes that brush special. Amazing work.

[alabamalawyer]

Great looking brush! :thumbup:

[Schwert]

Beautiful restore and a fine example of a superb EverReady.

[DFrancis]

Very amazing, you are now the envy of all the other MSU fans on B&B. :thumbup1:

[Greyfox]

Great job!:thumbup1:

[DymondCutter]

Amazing job. I am speachless!

[Piff]

I JUST realized that it's in Spartan colors. Look who just caught on! :tongue_sm
That's even more impressive now.

Regards.

[The Count of Merkur Cristo]

Awesome job my fellow Michigander!!!:thumbup:

GO GREEN...GO WHITE

http://hoopedia.nba.com/images/5/5d/Sparty1.jpg

Christopher http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh206/SerraTijn/smileys/smiley_shaving.gif

[pdmcadams]

The handle gets hand sanded with sand paper through 1500 grit then a rubbing compound polish, then a polishing compound polish, the Maas polish, then Flitz polish.

Would you let us know what rubbing compound and what polishing compound? Need all the help I can get at this point!

PDM

[SpartanFan]

Would you let us know what rubbing compound and what polishing compound? Need all the help I can get at this point!

PDM

These are the two that I use. I don't think the brand makes a big difference - just look for them at autoparts stores/sections.


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Thanks again everybody for the comments.

[The Count of Merkur Cristo]

So, you say the process is as follows;

1. Use sand paper - 1500 grit to 'sand the handles.

2. Then use the Rubbing Compund.

3. Then use the Polishing Compand.

Q. Who many 'man-hours' were needed to obtain the effect of your Brush?

Christopher http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh206/SerraTijn/smileys/smiley_shaving.gif

PS Born in East Lansing, but for now a Virginian (by official orders), until I retire (again), from U.S. federal governemnt civilian service...and then on to our other home & domicile in DeRidder, LA.

[stringtyer]

That is one sweet looking brush. I'm afraid that this post has triggered another episode of AD ... Got to find me a nice NCSU red and white Ever Ready to restore. I have a nice knot on hand that has been looking for a home. Looks like it's time for a trip to the flea market.

[Piff]

Doesn't matter how much I love my school. I will not be using a purple and white brush. blech.

[JoshuaA]

As A Northwestern Wildcat, born and raised in the Lansing-area with a soft spot for Sparty, I love that brush. If I could two similar ones (green and white for b-ball season and purple and white for footbll season) I think I'd be in heaven.

[SpartanFan]

So, you say the process is as follows;

1. Use sand paper - 1500 grit to 'sand the handles.

2. Then use the Rubbing Compund.

3. Then use the Polishing Compand.

Q. Who many 'man-hours' were needed to obtain the effect of your Brush?



The process is 600grit -> 800grit -> 1200grit -> 1500grit -> Rubbing Compound -> Polishing Compound -> Maas Polish -> Flitz Polish

I would say that somewhere between 1 to 2 hours working should get the finish there.

[The Count of Merkur Cristo]

The process is 600grit -> 800grit -> 1200grit -> 1500grit -> Rubbing Compound -> Polishing Compound -> Maas Polish -> Flitz Polish

I would say that somewhere between 1 to 2 hours working should get the finish there.
SpartanFan:
Thanx for the info :thumbup1:

Christopher http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh206/SerraTijn/smileys/smiley_shaving.gif