The Search for the Leather

[tehtimmeh]

Gents,

Last fall I was on a tobacco frag hunt, and with your help, settled on my favorite two: Odori Tabacco (thanks Mark!) and Tobacco Vanille.

Now, it is on to the leather genre before Spring hits and I am forced into a lighter frag. I understand that leather is a theme, but I am looking for a genuine brand new, soft leather couch smelling frag. First I am going to post what I have tried or own with very brief impressions, and then my "To try" list.

Tried / Own:

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather - So far, this is my favorite. Unexpected slightly sweet raspberry top note, drying down into a very rich smokey genuine leather.
Creed Vintage Tabarome - not love at first sight, but quickly became a top favorite. I get an old musty leather armchair pulled out of an ivy league library with a fresh light citrus glaze. I know most consider this a tobacco frag, but I get more leather. A++
Knize 10 - Old school vibe like Vintage Tabarome. Great opening. Downside is the baby powder dry down I get with this one. On the fence about a full bottle. I'll see how bad I miss it when my decant is gone.
Creed Royal English Leather - Very similar to the Knize to my nose. Overly sweet opening with the accused "urinal cake" note. The dry down is gorgeous. Couple this dry down with the opening of Knize 10, and it would seal the deal.
Creed Cuir de Russie - I can see why this is polarizing. Not for me. A disappointment. The lemon was too overpowering and the longevity was very short.
T&H Spanish Leather - Great winter scent, but not a leather. I do like the spicy dry down, reminiscent of YSL's Opium Pour Homme.
GFT Spanish Leather - No leather here either. I preferred the T&H version. Powdery note evident as is signature in Trumper's frags which does not work for me.
SMN Peau d'Espagne - In your face. Ouch. Loud. Not for the feint hearted. Petrol, oily, smokey leather. Not a softie, and definitely a grower. I have grown to really like this one, but it is a tad harsh to be a favorite.
Guerlain Habit Rouge - Great frag, but I want more leather. The citrus and vanilla dominate the leather note to me and oud dominates the EdP version. I do like this scent, but not what I want in a genuine leather.

To Try:

SMN Nostalgia
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Chanel Antaeus
Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman - High hopes for this one
Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie
Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris
Caron Tabac Blond
Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque
Serge Lutens Daim Blond
Hermes Bel Ami
Cuiron Pour Homme
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Parfum d'Habit
Guerlain Derby - Added
Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Oud Leather - Added
Mark Birley Charles Street - Added
Cuir - Les Nombres d’Or - Added
Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur - Added

I'd like to hear your thoughts on what your favorite leather is, your impressions if you have tried any of these I have listed, or any other recommendations you might have.

All the best,

Tim

[Aaron01]

Cuiron was as close to my Grail Leather as I've smelled so far, though I need to spend more time with Tuscan Leather. Think of Cuiron as a leather purse, lined in suede that is carrying plums, the owner was running and the plums have smashed about in the bag spilling their juices.

IMO Parfum d'Habit isn't a very leathery scent, yes it's in the base, but it's mostly about the herbs. Also, you should add Guerlain's Derby to your quest

[tehtimmeh]

Also, you should add Guerlain's Derby to your quest

Done!

[fifolo]

I will suggest Dior Leather Oud. Very woodsy, earthy, with a touch of spice. Love this one, much detail behind the wood overtones.

[flight567]

also try black sued leather (it's tabacco and leather...) it's amazing and is in that range that it's wearable, comfertably, all year round

[StylinLA]

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman gets a lot of high marks for smelling like your leather couch goal. Be interesting to hear what you think.

Haven't given Derby a full enough test, but as a Guerlain I'm sure it will be masterful, but not a very leather prominent scent ala Habit Rouge. Supremely well blended my guess. I was on the fence about buying some this weekend, but thought maybe it would be redundant with my already owning Habit Rouge EdP.

Antaeus is certainly worth a sniff. But I guess I don't consider that a leather scent in the context of what your goal seems to be. It's a very nicely blended scent, but it is not very leather prominent at all. Leather is a fairly minor player in the scent imo.

Tried two leather scents myself on Friday. A new one called Charles Street by Mark Birley. Kind of liked it. The leather note was very, very similar to Tuscan Leather, but not as "loud." But it opens with a scotch whiskey note that had me laughing. Smells you spilled some single malt on your wrist. I found it too similar to Tuscan Leather to consider a bottle, but others note: if you like TL and find its price off putting, this one is a bit more reasonably priced. $125 for 125ml. Smaller bottles are available too I think.

The other I tried is call Cuir - Les Nombres d’Or. Hard to describe this one. Very smokey. Very. Unconventional treatement of leather. A bit animalic. Avant garde. Not the type of scent I see myself wearing. Maybe a bit too Euro-trashy (not that I don't still have some Euro-trashy moments).

I personally think you've already tried and own the tops:

Knize 10
Tuscan Leather
Royal English Leather

These three, especially Tuscan Leather, set the bar pretty high and all are pretty leather dominant. Tuscan Leather is overall the most linear, potent and "loudest" of the leather scents I've tried or owned.

[professorchaos]

A few remarks on your To Try list, if you'll indulge me.

Chanel Antaeus - I would not call this one a leather scent. Leather is there, as a member of the supporting cast.

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman - a suede leather. Very good stuff.

Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie - The best leather I've found. Just superb.

Caron Tabac Blonde - Unless you have a source for the original formulation, don't waste your time. The reforumated heresey is an insipid, uninspired watering down of the original.

As for Bel Ami and Parfum d'Habit, they contain leather but are not leather scents.

[Joe Frances]

I love Birley's Charles Street, it is my new signature fragrance, but I am a man of more mature years, and find that this fits my over 50 sensibility perfectly. But, if you are under 35 I would absolutely recommend what I think is the best leather for a young man: Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur. I may have misspelled it, so check out the Heeley offerings from luckyscent.com and get a sample of this one as soon as possible!

[tehtimmeh]

I will suggest Dior Leather Oud. Very woodsy, earthy, with a touch of spice. Love this one, much detail behind the wood overtones.

I will definitely look at this one. I've been meaning to check out the new offerings from the Dior La Collection Couturier including the vetiver frag which is supposedly mixed with coffee bean. Sounds interesting...

[tehtimmeh]

also try black sued leather (it's tabacco and leather...) it's amazing and is in that range that it's wearable, comfertably, all year round

Avon isn't too tempting to be honest, but at this price, not much risk in giving it a shot!


Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman gets a lot of high marks for smelling like your leather couch goal. Be interesting to hear what you think.

Haven't given Derby a full enough test, but as a Guerlain I'm sure it will be masterful, but not a very leather prominent scent ala Habit Rouge. Supremely well blended my guess. I was on the fence about buying some this weekend, but thought maybe it would be redundant with my already owning Habit Rouge EdP.

Antaeus is certainly worth a sniff. But I guess I don't consider that a leather scent in the context of what your goal seems to be. It's a very nicely blended scent, but it is not very leather prominent at all. Leather is a fairly minor player in the scent imo.

Tried two leather scents myself on Friday. A new one called Charles Street by Mark Birley. Kind of liked it. The leather note was very, very similar to Tuscan Leather, but not as "loud." But it opens with a scotch whiskey note that had me laughing. Smells you spilled some single malt on your wrist. I found it too similar to Tuscan Leather to consider a bottle, but others note: if you like TL and find its price off putting, this one is a bit more reasonably priced. $125 for 125ml. Smaller bottles are available too I think.

The other I tried is call Cuir - Les Nombres d’Or. Hard to describe this one. Very smokey. Very. Unconventional treatement of leather. A bit animalic. Avant garde. Not the type of scent I see myself wearing. Maybe a bit too Euro-trashy (not that I don't still have some Euro-trashy moments).

I personally think you've already tried and own the tops:

Knize 10
Tuscan Leather
Royal English Leather

These three, especially Tuscan Leather, set the bar pretty high and all are pretty leather dominant. Tuscan Leather is overall the most linear, potent and "loudest" of the leather scents I've tried or owned.

Thanks Mark, I will look at those you mentioned. Tuscan Leather's price was offputting, but I bought it anyway because it blew me away! I'm a big single malt scotch fan (not that I want to be wearing it...) but, Charles Street just might work out. I'll give it a try.


A few remarks on your To Try list, if you'll indulge me.

Chanel Antaeus - I would not call this one a leather scent. Leather is there, as a member of the supporting cast.

Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman - a suede leather. Very good stuff.

Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie - The best leather I've found. Just superb.

Caron Tabac Blonde - Unless you have a source for the original formulation, don't waste your time. The reforumated heresey is an insipid, uninspired watering down of the original.

As for Bel Ami and Parfum d'Habit, they contain leather but are not leather scents.

Thanks for your comments on those Henry. I highly regard your opinion. I will most likely end up trying some of these that contain leather but are not necessarily leather scents anyway just for the experience, but you've helped me prioritize in terms of finding what I am looking for.

[StylinLA]

I love Birley's Charles Street, it is my new signature fragrance, but I am a man of more mature years, and find that this fits my over 50 sensibility perfectly. But, if you are under 35 I would absolutely recommend what I think is the best leather for a young man: Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur. I may have misspelled it, so check out the Heeley offerings from luckyscent.com and get a sample of this one as soon as possible!

Naw Joe- forget the years...that's a pretty good leather scent, period.

[tehtimmeh]

I love Birley's Charles Street, it is my new signature fragrance, but I am a man of more mature years, and find that this fits my over 50 sensibility perfectly. But, if you are under 35 I would absolutely recommend what I think is the best leather for a young man: Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur. I may have misspelled it, so check out the Heeley offerings from luckyscent.com and get a sample of this one as soon as possible!

Thanks Joe. I am slightly under 50 :thumbup1: But, as a "younger" guy in my 30s, I do tend to enjoy more mature fragrances. I will try both of these.

[scottb]

As for Bel Ami and Parfum d'Habit, they contain leather but are not leather scents.

I'm not familiar with Parfum d'habit, but I'd second what Henry said about Bel Ami with the addendum that it's pretty amazing. Very rich and classy.

Cuiron is a tough call....it is a very good leather, but it's also already discontinued with remaining bottles running up to $200 and such. It's sort of like the Proraso Red dilemma: do I want to try it + fall in love with it if I can never have it?

[tehtimmeh]

Cuiron is a tough call....it is a very good leather, but it's also already discontinued with remaining bottles running up to $200 and such. It's sort of like the Proraso Red dilemma: do I want to try it + fall in love with it if I can never have it?

Good point. I kick myself for ever having sampled Vintage Tabarome and then it costing me over $400 to buy one of the last available bottles from the Creed boutique. I love it and will cherish every last drop, but something inside me wishes I had never ventured down that path :mad3:

Maybe I should rush to try this one while it can still be had.... No! Don't do it. Must Resist.... Must... Ok so it's only a matter of time...

[professorchaos]

Thanks for your comments on those Henry. I highly regard your opinion. I will most likely end up trying some of these that contain leather but are not necessarily leather scents anyway just for the experience, but you've helped me prioritize in terms of finding what I am looking for.

Enjoy them! I'll be interested in your take on them. Even the lamented Tabac Blonde.

Some others that are well regarded are Robert Piguet's Bandit (apparently the reformulation turned out well) and L.T. Pivier's Cuir de Russie.


Naw Joe- forget the years...that's a pretty good leather scent, period.

I am going to need to track some of this juice down too ...


I'm not familiar with Parfum d'habit, but I'd second what Henry said about Bel Ami with the addendum that it's pretty amazing. Very rich and classy.

Indeed. Bel Ami is a wonderful frag. If you stumble across the original, do try it.

[BRuhling]

Tim

You already know where I sat on the Knize. I also second Henry's recommendation of the Montale. It is a phenomenal smoky leather. I love it a lot. If you're looking for a very clean and classy leather, the Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur is not to be missed. It is a ver smooth, suede leather. It was another first scent joy!

[The Nid Hog]

The Heeley sounds interesting. I'll have to give it a try the next time I'm somewhere that carries it.

[WhiteKnight]

Gents,

Knize 10 - Old school vibe like Vintage Tabarome. Great opening. Downside is the baby powder dry down I get with this one. On the fence about a full bottle. I'll see how bad I miss it when my decant is gone.


Try the Golden Edition - same scent, but a tad stronger and without the powdery drydown (which I like).

[tehtimmeh]

Try the Golden Edition - same scent, but a tad stronger and without the powdery drydown (which I like).

O.o I'm intrigued, but have not heard of this. Is this readily available?

[WhiteKnight]

O.o I'm intrigued, but have not heard of this. Is this readily available?

I only had a decant once. It is not very easy to find and additional information is pretty nonexistent - it pops up sometimes on Ebay.

See also, and the link in that thread to Basenotes:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175019

[Sabre]

Russisch Leder by Farina Gegenüber, not sure if it's still available.

[Sabre]

Russisch Leder by Farina Gegenüber, not sure if it's still available.

I just saw a thread by Nemo from a few days ago......http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=182985

[Pulley]

Caron Tabac Blond is awesome!

[tehtimmeh]

Caron Tabac Blond is awesome!

Do you have the vintage or the newer reformulated bottle of heresy as Henry so politely described it? :lol:

[Tom_Ford]

King of Leathers - Tuscan Leather
Also good - Spanish Leather by T&H

That's about as much as I know, unfortunately. :tongue_sm

[The Nid Hog]

I got a sample of Mark Birley Charles Street today. It's really quite nice--a comfortable , well-constructed leather. It opens with a brief burst that I haven't pinned down yet--need to try it again--then a quick drydown to the leather. I first thought of Knize Ten stripped of the petrochemical blast, REL without the Creed house note, but it's even more refined than that. I also get a powdery sweet note that somehow reminds me of raspberry cocoa. After a while, that's replaced by a hint of old leather-bound books with thick, yellowing pages. Not musty by any means, but old. All very restrained. Great longevity too. I applied it more than six hours ago and it's still very noticeable.

If you're in the market for a mature, reliable leather, this would be an excellent choice. No kerosene, no birch tar, no angry Cossacks, Spanish fencing masters, or British horsemen riding point to point. I like it a lot, but it's perhaps a bit too nice to be me. I'll stick with Knize Ten.

[fifolo]

If you want leathery leather, then I have another for you, vintage Worth Pour Homme Haute Concentration. It's like smelling inside a brand new baseball glove, hehe.

[StylinLA]

I got a sample of Mark Birley Charles Street today. It's really quite nice--a comfortable , well-constructed leather. It opens with a brief burst that I haven't pinned down yet--need to try it again--then a quick drydown to the leather.

I've read the notes, but the impression I got with the open was scotch whiskey. It's a very well done scent.

Charles Street Notes
Coffee, mace oil, angelica root, leather, vanilla, musk, patchouly.

The thing that's tempting me is you can get 75ml for $88. I don't like big bottles when I can avoid them.

[tehtimmeh]

If you want leathery leather, then I have another for you, vintage Worth Pour Homme Haute Concentration. It's like smelling inside a brand new baseball glove, hehe.

Added. Thanks for the recommendation.


I got a sample of Mark Birley Charles Street today. It's really quite nice--a comfortable , well-constructed leather. It opens with a brief burst that I haven't pinned down yet--need to try it again--then a quick drydown to the leather. I first thought of Knize Ten stripped of the petrochemical blast, REL without the Creed house note, but it's even more refined than that. I also get a powdery sweet note that somehow reminds me of raspberry cocoa. After a while, that's replaced by a hint of old leather-bound books with thick, yellowing pages. Not musty by any means, but old. All very restrained. Great longevity too. I applied it more than six hours ago and it's still very noticeable.

If you're in the market for a mature, reliable leather, this would be an excellent choice. No kerosene, no birch tar, no angry Cossacks, Spanish fencing masters, or British horsemen riding point to point. I like it a lot, but it's perhaps a bit too nice to be me. I'll stick with Knize Ten.

Already on the list. This one sounds very intriguing. It will be on my next Lucky Scent sample haul without a doubt.

I haven't had a chance to sample much on my list yet, but I was able to try Cuiron, which wasn't quite what I was looking for and Montale's Oud Cuir d'Arabie (thanks Scott!).

All I can say is WOW to the Montale. I am REALLY liking this one. Very authentic deep genuine leather smell. I only got my hands on a tiny sample, so I will be buying a larger decant to spend more time with this jewel.

[Evbo]

I'm not very familiar with most of the frags on your list. However, I do have a decant of PG's Cuir d'Iris.

This scent is gorgeous. It's a very refined, very smooth leather scent. Besides the leather, it doesn't have any smokiness or "tarriness" to it. Even the leather smells highly tanned, like the leather you'd find on a very soft, very high-end jacket or couch. I haven't worn it in awhile, but the main impression I got from it is soft, sensual leathery goodness. It struck me as being a very unisex frag. I actually need to refresh my memory on this one.

I'm also lucky enough to own a 10ml decant of Caron's vintage Tabac Blonde from the 1920s. And let me tell you, this 10ml is enough to last me for the rest of my life. More. It's unbelievably powerful & concentrated. Leather mixed with cinnamon, spices, tobacco ... like the essence of '20s Parisian night life distilled down into a bottle. It's intoxicating. Again, it strikes me as a unisex frag, but the woman who wears this would have to be very sure of herself indeed. I haven't smelled whatever is the most recent formulation but I'm guessing that it bears little to no resemblance to this original fragrance. I've truly never smelled anything like it.

[Ethan.Bassist.]

If you want leathery leather, then I have another for you, vintage Worth Pour Homme Haute Concentration. It's like smelling inside a brand new baseball glove, hehe.

I'll have to check this one out if I can find it somewhere. I played right field in junior high and mostly just stood out there with my glove in my face practically huffing it haha...

[The Nid Hog]

As a sidenote, I wrote directly to Mark Birley and they sent me a very generous sample.

[scottb]

If you want leathery leather, then I have another for you, vintage Worth Pour Homme Haute Concentration. It's like smelling inside a brand new baseball glove, hehe.

I have this one, it strikes me as a very soapy leather...leather is definitely a component, but more of a classy barbershop. I'm testing it now and the soap is edging out the leather.

Okay, it's starting to change now....more later.


but I was able to try Cuiron, which wasn't quite what I was looking for and Montale's Oud Cuir d'Arabie (thanks Scott!).


and to you sir!

[Obsessed]

I'm generally not a fan of leather scents, but I've been enjoying Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie.

[DavidP]

Don't forget Clubman Special Reserve!

:lol:

[tls1]

In the past year, I've been drawn to the leather fragrances. Chanel's Cuir de Russie has been the standby for me in this category. The Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur, mentioned several times above, has in the past few months become one of my favorite fragrances. This past week I was in NY and came back with Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman. Potent at first, but mellows nicely.

[Obsessed]

I'm generally not a fan of leather scents, but I've been enjoying Montale Aoud Cuir d'Arabie.

I wore this again yesterday, and after several hours it seemed to take on a mildly unpleasant synthetic quality. Weird.

[BillC]

I wore this again yesterday, and after several hours it seemed to take on a mildly unpleasant synthetic quality. Weird.

Interesting. I wore the Cuir d'Arabie for the first time yesterday. The opening included some very sour notes - I looked through the basenotes reviews and someone else had the same thought as me - vomit. There was a faint touch of sour and sharp that smelled like someone had been sick in a new car. Hard to explain - but that was just one note and didn't ruin the fragrance for me. As it dried down that faded into just a sour note against the leather. On further dry down the leather turned sweet and beautiful. Sillage was moderate but longevity was great. Looking forward to wearing this one again - first wearings aren't always a reliable indicator of what I'll smell in a scent later for some reason.

[tehtimmeh]

Interesting. I wore the Cuir d'Arabie for the first time yesterday. The opening included some very sour notes - I looked through the basenotes reviews and someone else had the same thought as me - vomit. There was a faint touch of sour and sharp that smelled like someone had been sick in a new car. Hard to explain - but that was just one note and didn't ruin the fragrance for me. As it dried down that faded into just a sour note against the leather. On further dry down the leather turned sweet and beautiful. Sillage was moderate but longevity was great. Looking forward to wearing this one again - first wearings aren't always a reliable indicator of what I'll smell in a scent later for some reason.

I got the same thing from the opening. It is odd and sour. They dry down is definitely where this one shines, is worth waiting for, and has it's rightful place as my top Montale (as of yet).

[Joe Frances]

O.o I'm intrigued, but have not heard of this. Is this readily available?

Tim:

This has been a fun thread to follow. Do you have any updates on your quest for the ultimate leather fragrance?

[porkpie]

Gents,

Last fall I was on a tobacco frag hunt, and with your help, settled on my favorite two: Odori Tabacco (thanks Mark!) and Tobacco Vanille.

Now, it is on to the leather genre before Spring hits and I am forced into a lighter frag. I understand that leather is a theme, but I am looking for a genuine brand new, soft leather couch smelling frag. First I am going to post what I have tried or own with very brief impressions, and then my "To try" list.

Tried / Own:

Tom Ford Tuscan Leather - So far, this is my favorite. Unexpected slightly sweet raspberry top note, drying down into a very rich smokey genuine leather.
Creed Vintage Tabarome - not love at first sight, but quickly became a top favorite. I get an old musty leather armchair pulled out of an ivy league library with a fresh light citrus glaze. I know most consider this a tobacco frag, but I get more leather. A++
Knize 10 - Old school vibe like Vintage Tabarome. Great opening. Downside is the baby powder dry down I get with this one. On the fence about a full bottle. I'll see how bad I miss it when my decant is gone.
Creed Royal English Leather - Very similar to the Knize to my nose. Overly sweet opening with the accused "urinal cake" note. The dry down is gorgeous. Couple this dry down with the opening of Knize 10, and it would seal the deal.
Creed Cuir de Russie - I can see why this is polarizing. Not for me. A disappointment. The lemon was too overpowering and the longevity was very short.
T&H Spanish Leather - Great winter scent, but not a leather. I do like the spicy dry down, reminiscent of YSL's Opium Pour Homme.
GFT Spanish Leather - No leather here either. I preferred the T&H version. Powdery note evident as is signature in Trumper's frags which does not work for me.
SMN Peau d'Espagne - In your face. Ouch. Loud. Not for the feint hearted. Petrol, oily, smokey leather. Not a softie, and definitely a grower. I have grown to really like this one, but it is a tad harsh to be a favorite.
Guerlain Habit Rouge - Great frag, but I want more leather. The citrus and vanilla dominate the leather note to me and oud dominates the EdP version. I do like this scent, but not what I want in a genuine leather.

To Try:

SMN Nostalgia
Chanel Cuir de Russie
Chanel Antaeus
Parfum d'Empire Cuir Ottoman - High hopes for this one
Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie
Parfumerie Generale Cuir d'Iris
Caron Tabac Blond
Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque
Serge Lutens Daim Blond
Hermes Bel Ami
Cuiron Pour Homme
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Parfum d'Habit
Guerlain Derby - Added
Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Oud Leather - Added
Mark Birley Charles Street - Added
Cuir - Les Nombres d’Or - Added
Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur - Added

I'd like to hear your thoughts on what your favorite leather is, your impressions if you have tried any of these I have listed, or any other recommendations you might have.

All the best,

Tim

You should also hunt down Bvlgari Black on this list as well for a look-see.

[awayalonealong]

I hesitate to mention Xerjoff 17/17 because it runs over $6/mL, but it is an extraordinary leather. I love Bel Ami, but 17/17 is too strong for me to wear. Still, I'm glad I had the experience.

[BingeAndPurge]

Not in the same league as some of these, but it is a Tom Ford creation. I think Gucci PH 1 is a nice leather. Smells just like my jacket. One of my favorite winter frags.

[StylinLA]

You should also hunt down Bvlgari Black on this list as well for a look-see.

Black is an interesting scent, but I don't believe it has any leather. "Rubber" and vanilla.