Recommended for Purchase

[DickW]

I came across these last night, not sure what they are worth and he wants me to make an offer, nor do I know the quality of them. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

"one of the Dubl Duck’s is in near perfect condition, the other has a small chip and some rust. The other three are different…
One is a Henckel 401
One is a Erusta Solingen 91
One is a Erusta Solingen Special"

I'll post pictures when he sends them, should be tonigt.

***EDIT*** Here's the pics I received tonight. I'm brand new to straights and really have no idea if any of these blades are worth picking up or not. Nor do I have any idea what they'b be worth. I'm not looking for specifics of value, just a helping recommendation on what another might do if these same blades were offered to them

[Legion]

We are not really allowed to give valuations. I can say that all of those razors, assuming they are in OK condition, will make reasonable shavers if that is what you are after.

[BuddyRockefella]

i would get the dubl duck goldedge. they are great shavers.

[JeffE]

Without getting into specific values, I would probably pass on all of them. You've got a number of different factors here that weigh against it:

1. You are new to straight razor shaving, so you don't want to start learning with a blade that has significant problems, even problems that aren't immediately visible from the kind of photos that you've posted here. I would try a newer or new razor in "shave ready" condition from a reputable seller, particularly one being offered on B/S/T.

2. These Dubl Ducks don't look like they are in "near perfect" condition. If even one of them was in this lofty state, it would be easier to tell from clear pictures. These pictures, on the other hand, look more like they are trying to hide something.

3. The other razors in the photo here look like they are pretty poor condition and might only be useable with significant restoration. I can't imagine what a person new to straight razor shaving would want with blades in this condition, but I don't think much of a seller who is trying to push these kinds of blades on a newbie.

I would skip the entire "deal" and buy somewhere else. The old saying is if you're going to buy a horse from a man, either you need to know horses or you need to know the man. Same's true for old razors.

[Will P.C.]

I would offer him 10 dollars. None of them look like you could even sale them if you restored them.

The one Duck might be okay, but it might be junk too. Those pics are not clear

[DickW]

Yes, this will be my first straight purchase, so thank you for the input. And I wanted to clarify. The guy selling this stuff has no clue what he is selling. It all belonged to his father, who passed. My feeling from his emails is that he just doesn't know much about any of this stuff....kind of like me.

I do have a friend who said he would be willing to do some work on a straight to make it shave ready. So I was looking on c-list and this is what I found. I'm going to go take a look at these this weekend. Obviously not going to be picking up any chipped, rusted, frowning blades. But I'll let you know if I pick one up.

Thanks again for the input. A lot of helpful advice from a lot of different people on this forum.

[JeffE]

Good luck, and please don't take our skepticism as the final word. If you are going to look at these in person, and you find an honest person selling something that looks ok for a reasonable price, then feel free to ignore all of this.

In general, you want to see a blade that is perfectly even, perfectly flat, and not worn away in any significant degree. Blades that have any kind of noticeable "smile" or "frown" are probably worth avoiding, at least until you know more about what you are buying. Any kind of rust or corrosion near the cutting edge of the blade is usually fatal; near the spine (or top) it can be removed without a problem. Any kind of cracks in the blade are also fatal. Very, very, very small chips (like 1-2 mm in size) can usually be honed out, but larger chips are typically not worth fixing. The scales are very easily replaced, but it's nice to have the original scales for a razor.

Also, don't get caught up in the hype of "Dubl Duck" razors. There are like 15 different DD models, and not all of them command the same following. For some reason, the "Grim Reaper" models sell for over $500 no matter what shape they are in, but lots of very nice DDs trade for $50 or less. Any DD razor in excellent condition, however, will make a nice blade to learn with IF YOU HAVE THE BLADE SHARPENED BY AN EXPERIENCED HONEMEISTER.

And welcome to this area -- I hope you stick with it! --Jeff

[DickW]

Jeff,
Best bit of advice I've received thus far. Thanks for the insight, I'll keep all of it in mind when I go look at these blades. Thankfully I have a friend who is going to help ease my transition into all of this, he's already been very helpful. I'll keep studying the forum and reading as mush as possible. But I really just want to start the process, experience is going to be key for me, learn what I like, how to use the tools, and then comes the world of soaps and colognes, that's another beast all together.

If anyone knows of a seller of a great starter blade, for someone like myself, feel free to PM, thanks again.


Good luck, and please don't take our skepticism as the final word. If you are going to look at these in person, and you find an honest person selling something that looks ok for a reasonable price, then feel free to ignore all of this.

In general, you want to see a blade that is perfectly even, perfectly flat, and not worn away in any significant degree. Blades that have any kind of noticeable "smile" or "frown" are probably worth avoiding, at least until you know more about what you are buying. Any kind of rust or corrosion near the cutting edge of the blade is usually fatal; near the spine (or top) it can be removed without a problem. Any kind of cracks in the blade are also fatal. Very, very, very small chips (like 1-2 mm in size) can usually be honed out, but larger chips are typically not worth fixing. The scales are very easily replaced, but it's nice to have the original scales for a razor.

Also, don't get caught up in the hype of "Dubl Duck" razors. There are like 15 different DD models, and not all of them command the same following. For some reason, the "Grim Reaper" models sell for over $500 no matter what shape they are in, but lots of very nice DDs trade for $50 or less. Any DD razor in excellent condition, however, will make a nice blade to learn with IF YOU HAVE THE BLADE SHARPENED BY AN EXPERIENCED HONEMEISTER.

And welcome to this area -- I hope you stick with it! --Jeff

[DickW]

I just got a link from another member, directed me to whipped dog straight razors. You guys rock man, can't believe the feedback I've already received.

[JeffE]

I've never purchased from Larry, but you have to believe that someone with as many fans here as Larry has is doing something right.

My introduction to straight razors came from someone like Larry who is also very popular here -- Bob Keyes, www.bobsrazors.com. Bob is like the Yoda of razor restoration, and he prides himself on flawless work and way beyond reasonable prices. Honestly, you can pick up a blade from Bob's site for $40-50 that will be your straight razor for a lifetime and will shave rings around blades costing 5 times as much.

I hear many similar remarks about Larry's site too, by the way, so you can't go wrong with either.

Start slow, by the way, when you finally get your hands on a working blade. Go WTG, cheeks only, and just finish your shave with your DE. Next week, move up to WTG, cheeks and throat, then WTG and ATG, cheeks and throat, etc. Using a pre-shave oil underneath the shaving cream also helps to keep the blade gliding over the skin (rather than digging into it).

Let us know how it goes!:thumbup1:

[SliceOfLife]

If the goldedge is "Near Perfect" as he claims, it's a valuable razor. But I wouldn't offer anything without better pictures. A goldedge with some rust and a small chip can be worth a little bit too (30-50 depending on a lot of variables), but again... better pictures. The other three look like something I wouldnt bother with.

My advice is to get better pictures of the goldedges. If I saw an auction ending with the description and pictures you posted on eBay, I wouldn't go above $60. I'd figure the GE boxes are worth $20 each and I can get another $20 out of the blades even if they're crap. But it may be worth a lot more, hence the request for better pictures.

[DickW]

***EDIT*** I figured it out:)

Pardon my not knowing, but which ones are the Goldedges? I'll ask for more pics.


If the goldedge is "Near Perfect" as he claims, it's a valuable razor. But I wouldn't offer anything without better pictures. A goldedge with some rust and a small chip can be worth a little bit too (30-50 depending on a lot of variables), but again... better pictures. The other three look like something I wouldnt bother with.

My advice is to get better pictures of the goldedges. If I saw an auction ending with the description and pictures you posted on eBay, I wouldn't go above $60. I'd figure the GE boxes are worth $20 each and I can get another $20 out of the blades even if they're crap. But it may be worth a lot more, hence the request for better pictures.

[BladeRunner001]

Without getting into specific values, I would probably pass on all of them. You've got a number of different factors here that weigh against it:

1. You are new to straight razor shaving, so you don't want to start learning with a blade that has significant problems, even problems that aren't immediately visible from the kind of photos that you've posted here. I would try a newer or new razor in "shave ready" condition from a reputable seller, particularly one being offered on B/S/T.

2. These Dubl Ducks don't look like they are in "near perfect" condition. If even one of them was in this lofty state, it would be easier to tell from clear pictures. These pictures, on the other hand, look more like they are trying to hide something.

3. The other razors in the photo here look like they are pretty poor condition and might only be useable with significant restoration. I can't imagine what a person new to straight razor shaving would want with blades in this condition, but I don't think much of a seller who is trying to push these kinds of blades on a newbie.

I would skip the entire "deal" and buy somewhere else. The old saying is if you're going to buy a horse from a man, either you need to know horses or you need to know the man. Same's true for old razors.

+1...my thoughts exactly.

[DickW]

Posted - Pics of first blade, what do you think?

[DickW]

And here's the other

[SliceOfLife]

The first one has a serious frown and wrecked scales. I'd figure it's worth $30-40 (including the box). It could be restored with a good bit of work, but would need some polishing, a lot of honing and new scales.

The second one looks better but I see some evidence of light pitting near the edge. It will need polishing and honing and probably lose a couple mm of blade depth. I'd expect it to reach 80-140$ on eBay if listed in current condition.

I'd offer him $120 for the lot personally. But I've got all the tools and some of the skills to do the restoration work myself. If I had to send it out for restoration, I'd probably offer less.

[DickW]

Thanks for the advice. I must not have the eye yet, I'm trying to figure out where the frown is on the 1st blade. And I wasn't sure the 2nd blade was pitted or stained, once again, having the blades in hand would help tremendously.


The first one has a serious frown and wrecked scales. I'd figure it's worth $30-40 (including the box). It could be restored with a good bit of work, but would need some polishing, a lot of honing and new scales.

The second one looks better but I see some evidence of light pitting near the edge. It will need polishing and honing and probably lose a couple mm of blade depth. I'd expect it to reach 80-140$ on eBay if listed in current condition.

I'd offer him $120 for the lot personally. But I've got all the tools and some of the skills to do the restoration work myself. If I had to send it out for restoration, I'd probably offer less.

[FiveOhNine]

I'd pass on #1, probably wouldn't go over $50 for #2, but I'm a cheap bastard.:lol:

[Luc]

I would pick #2 too but keep in mind, those are not shave ready? If that's the case, I would give less than $50... I'm a cheaper basterd! :laugh:

[JeffE]

Look at how flat the spine is on #1. I'm not sure I see the frown at the angle in the photograph, but I just don't like to buy blades that have that many miles on them. Skip #1.

I would absolutely skip #2 as well. Do you see the discoloration all along the edge of the blade? The photographs might be deceiving my eyes, but to me that looks like a pretty good indication of the beginnings of scale rot, which you get lots of times with older scales made out of celluloid. It's a long story, but older scales sometimes break down and give off gasses that eat into the metal of the razor -- it's called scale rot. When that happens, you don't even want to bring that razor in your house, because the breakdown of celluloid will start to rust other razors that are kept in the same drawer.

Sorry, but I vote thumbs down on both of them, and thumbs up on Larry Andro and Bob Keyes. --Jeff

[DickW]

I hear you guys, loud and clear. I just passed on them. I did offer a small amount of cash if he indeed just wanted to get rid of them:)

I'm going to go with Larry or Bob, already been through both their websites. Larry's lower end bargain stuff is appealing because I so new to all of this. On the other hand, all of Bob's stuff looks very nice.

Here's a question. I see Bob has a couple of blades that are listed as trimming or travel razors. Do I get a disadvantage with a smaller blade when shaving?


Look at how flat the spine is on #1. I'm not sure I see the frown at the angle in the photograph, but I just don't like to buy blades that have that many miles on them. Skip #1.

I would absolutely skip #2 as well. Do you see the discoloration all along the edge of the blade? The photographs might be deceiving my eyes, but to me that looks like a pretty good indication of the beginnings of scale rot, which you get lots of times with older scales made out of celluloid. It's a long story, but older scales sometimes break down and give off gasses that eat into the metal of the razor -- it's called scale rot. When that happens, you don't even want to bring that razor in your house, because the breakdown of celluloid will start to rust other razors that are kept in the same drawer.

Sorry, but I vote thumbs down on both of them, and thumbs up on Larry Andro and Bob Keyes. --Jeff

[FiveOhNine]

Some guys love smaller blades, but I would start with a 5/8 or so. The little guys are very maneuverable, but are a bit more difficult to hone and strop, IMO.

[DickW]

Update:thumbup1:
I called Bob Keyes over in Tennessee
(Here's his website - http://www.bobsrazors.com/shop/page/1?shop_param=) and just purchase my first straight. Heres the info on the blade:
"Geneva, U.S.A. Pyramid Brand
Geneva razor made by the Geneva Cutlery, Corporation in Geneva, New York. In perfect defect and blemish free condition this razor shows no previous usage. It has a full 5/8 + wide, hollow ground, carbon steel blade with an extremely high lustrous mirror finish on all the steel parts of this blade. The handles themselves have a highly shiny surface sheen and are in like new condition. These old Geneva's make great daily shavers and this one comes guaranteed shave ready."

He gave me a fair deal over the phone and was a pleasure to do business with. The picture is small because he already removed the item from his website, so I grabbed one of the thumbnails. I've got a brush and soap coming too. Next on the list...shaving creams, lotions, and stuff to stop the bleeding, I'm sure I'm going to get a few cuts, but hopefully pick it up fairly quick.

BIG THANKS to all of you that helped me and offered advice, I really do appreciate. I'll be leaving some other questions and looking for advice under some sub-categories. I'm open for advice and feedback regarding anything shave related too.

DickW:thumbup:

[oscar11]

Nice razor. I have one of them, not as pretty, but a great shaver.

[DickW]

I agree, not the most aesthetic looking piece, but I was told that it will be work great for shaving and it will hold a good edge for awhile. Maybe once I'm invested a bit more and I start to understand what exactly I like for shaving will I then start looking for non-ugly blades.

[joshmpdx]

Great first Pick DC!

I've got a Geneva, and it's a great shaver. The blades are on the lighter side of the 5/8's and nicely ground full hollow. I've got a pretty wedge-y blade that you can use as a comparison as well.

What have you decided to go with for a strop?

[DickW]

I was actually talking with Chuck D about making a strop, because of all his leather working skills. Also looked at a cheap setup from WhippedDogStraights, I believe they were $19. Truthfully, I haven't even started looking around for a strop, I've been focused on the blade portion of it all.

Throw a couple websites at me or if you know someone with a deal I'd gladly take a look.

[JeffE]

You can't go wrong with one of Bob's razors. Excellent choice, and you'll find he's a great guy to know too. Enjoy! --Jeff

[DickW]

That's who I purchased my straight from yesterday. It was a pleasant experience doing business with him and I'd recommend him to others. I do get a chuckle at his opening website music. Didn't seem to fit his character after talking to him on the phone:w00t:


You can't go wrong with one of Bob's razors. Excellent choice, and you'll find he's a great guy to know too. Enjoy! --Jeff