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DrColossus11
09-26-2010, 10:27 AM
So I started restore my first straights and a had a couple questions about hand sanding.

What progression do most of you use when hand sanding? I started with 150 because there was some pitting on the blades. From 150 should I go up to 180 or right to 220? Thanks.

azmark
09-26-2010, 10:36 AM
You won't be removing any pitting starting at 150. Start at 80 if it has pitting.

80 to 150 will remove most of the major pitting that sanding can handle.

180 240 320 400 600 1000 1200 1500 2000 is what I use. Some use 80 to 120 for pitting in circular motions, I go to 150. It just worked for me.

DrColossus11
09-26-2010, 10:40 AM
Thanks Mark, Looks like a trip to Home Depot is in my near future.

azmark
09-26-2010, 10:43 AM
Find something to wrap the paper in also, your fingers will thank you for it. A piece of scrap wood works great. I use a large rubber dowl.

Joe Edson
09-26-2010, 10:56 AM
Also be prepared to spend 10+ hours on this. Make sure you don't progress on your sand paper until you get all the scratches out from the previous grit.

DrColossus11
09-26-2010, 11:05 AM
I was planning on it taking a long time. I'm gonna try and do an hour or so a day.

After the 2000 grit what would I use to polish it up with?

BillEllis
09-26-2010, 11:18 AM
Always use the least aggressive grits first. Otherwise you merely create a rough surface that has to be taken out with a host of higher grits. Without a pic, it's hard to tell what grit you should start with. For the most part, I will use 180 and go through the rest of the grits up to 1,000. If you want a mirror finish, then on to 1,500 and 2,000. Make sure you take out ALL the marks from the preceding grit before going on to the next one.

I use wooden dowels as well for sanding. Here (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=85701) is another method that works good for hand sanding.

DrColossus11
09-26-2010, 12:16 PM
Here are the pics of when I got them.

Boker
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0011.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0012.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0013.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0014.jpg

Red Imp
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0018.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_00191.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_00201.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_00211.jpg

DrColossus11
09-28-2010, 06:47 PM
Here are some progression pics I took. Just about done with the 220 grit.

Boker
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/044.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/043.jpg

Red Imp
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/047.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/045.jpg

heirkb
09-28-2010, 07:36 PM
Wow, you must have done a lot of sanding!
I never really had the patience for hand sanding, so I got a buffer. It's quicker, but it has its own hurdles and learning curve

DrColossus11
09-28-2010, 08:57 PM
Wow, you must have done a lot of sanding!
I never really had the patience for hand sanding, so I got a buffer. It's quicker, but it has its own hurdles and learning curve

About 4 hours so far and countless more to go. I wish I had a buffer and a work bench for that matter (stupid, dumb, one bedroom apartment).

Luc
09-29-2010, 04:31 AM
That's not so bad. I usually start with 600 and see from there...

honed
09-29-2010, 06:14 AM
You seem to be doing fine there :thumbup1:

azmark
09-29-2010, 08:42 PM
Wow that is coming along very nice. I can't wait to see the final results:thumbup1:

DrColossus11
09-30-2010, 04:01 PM
Progressed up to 600 today. Starting to get shiny! I'll get some pics up tonight or tomorrow. I think I found a new hobby.

DrColossus11
09-30-2010, 05:20 PM
Well it looks like 600 is were I stop for now as the local ACE doesn't carry 800-1200. Here are some more pics.

Boker
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_00321.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0033.jpg

Red Imp
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0034.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0035.jpg

Vintage Razor
09-30-2010, 05:29 PM
Nice! amazing what hand sanding can do. I been working on doing some hand sanding on many of my straights I have. It has been fun, but a lot of work.

dunworl
09-30-2010, 08:18 PM
Well it looks like 600 is were I stop for now as the local ACE doesn't carry 800-1200...

Try an auto parts or auto paint store. These folks also carry what you need and are good to deal with:

www.klingspor.com

OldeSchool
09-30-2010, 08:24 PM
Looks great so far DR. One word of advice... watch the hard edges because you'll start losing dome of the definition (spine and tang) if you don't keep a flat surface.

Can't wait to see the end result. :thumbup1:

SliceOfLife
10-01-2010, 12:11 AM
Well it looks like 600 is were I stop for now as the local ACE doesn't carry 800-1200. Here are some more pics.




Walmart carries 800 for auto body work. Check paint stores. That's the gold mine. I've seen up to 2000 there. Best price is probably buying online though.

tylerdurden
10-01-2010, 05:36 AM
I got up to 2000grit at autozone for pretty cheap. I think they even had mixed packs with several high grits.

Vintage Razor
10-01-2010, 05:40 AM
Has anyone tried micro-mesh? I have it works well but, it is more expensive.

Never2Late
10-01-2010, 07:31 AM
Great thread. Thanks for sharing. I've enjoyed seeing your progress.

DrColossus11
10-01-2010, 11:02 AM
Great thread. Thanks for sharing. I've enjoyed seeing your progress.

Thanks for checking it out. It started as a question, but has since evolved.

Picked up 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit today. Couldn't find 800 anywhere. Might have to skip it. Also, dropping back down to 400 for a few as I saw some scratches in the pics that weren't visible to me before.

DrColossus11
10-05-2010, 02:56 PM
Got up to 2000 grit today, ended up with a slight mirror finish. I'm happy with the results. I really just want to get them sent out fot honing.

Boker
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0066.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0065.jpg

Imp
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0068.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae212/drcolossus11/IMG_0067.jpg

They look better without the finger prints.

tylerdurden
10-05-2010, 05:29 PM
Great work they look awesome!

OldeSchool
10-05-2010, 08:18 PM
This really came out great. Thoughts on scales?

DrColossus11
10-06-2010, 09:53 AM
I have a set of rosewood scales I picked up from BST for the Boker. The Imp is heading off to Nerdman for some customs.

azmark
10-14-2010, 12:29 AM
Good job. Sanding can be a complete pain in the rear but quite rewarding as you progress in grits.

That IMP is a great razor but looks like some uneven wear from heal to tip so it may have to loose some of the heel to make it even. But it will still be a great shaver after it's honed properly.

Munxcub
10-14-2010, 09:10 PM
Just curious as to how much "dust" one can expect from hand sanding a blade like this? Just wondering if it's something I should do downstairs in my shop or can I plug away in front of the TV without making a mess?

DrColossus11
10-14-2010, 09:31 PM
Just curious as to how much "dust" one can expect from hand sanding a blade like this? Just wondering if it's something I should do downstairs in my shop or can I plug away in front of the TV without making a mess?

I did it in front of the couch in front of the TV. I used a trick I learned in my high school jewelry class. Fold a couple of pieces of printer paper into quarters. Loop some masking tape and cover one side with it. Now, overlap more masking tape sticky side up across the length of the paper. Trim out the paper by taping a border (sticky side down) to it. Finally, press it onto your jeans and pull it off a couple times. This grabs some lint and makes it less sticky. The sanding pad will hold your razor in place and collect most of the dust.

Let me know if this makes sense at all.

Munxcub
10-14-2010, 10:01 PM
I'm trying to imagine what this would be but I'm having a hard time... don't suppose if you get a few minutes tomorrow you could maybe snap a picture of one of these rigs?

DrColossus11
10-14-2010, 10:07 PM
I'm trying to imagine what this would be but I'm having a hard time... don't suppose if you get a few minutes tomorrow you could maybe snap a picture of one of these rigs?

Yup.

scrambled
02-06-2011, 08:22 PM
when hand sanding, do you wet the paper or keep it dry? also, do you apply any sort of polish when transitioning to a finer grit paper?

i just purchased a vintage razor, and it appears to be in decent shape. i want to polish it up, and i am thinking of going the hand sanding method. i am having a little trouble picturing what it looks like to completely remove the marks/scratches from the previous grit. any elaboration on this issue would be greatly appreciated. thanks all!

mdunn
02-06-2011, 08:37 PM
I use wd40 with my hand sanding to keep the metal from building up on the paper.

Micro mesh is good stuff, you can also use maas or other polishes etc to go past 2000 grit sandpaper

Doc226
09-10-2011, 07:04 PM
Very nice.

jcborr00
09-10-2011, 08:10 PM
autozone carries up to 2500

alex2363
09-10-2011, 11:13 PM
Great resto Jay, It is so satisfying to do those restos.

GeneC
07-21-2013, 12:31 PM
Also be prepared to spend 10+ hours on this. Make sure you don't progress on your sand paper until you get all the scratches out from the previous grit.

I've seen this a few times,,,I don't understand what that means,,,,,seems to me that the whole point of moving to the finer grit is to remove the scratches from the previous grit. Am I missing something here?

Skyrider55
07-21-2013, 01:47 PM
I'm not quite sure what you don't understand or are missing. It would be possible to sand something to 220 grit and move to 400 grit but not have all the deeper scratches sanded out from a 180 grit paper. Moving to 400 grit paper before removing all the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would be a waste of time because the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would still be visible. You'd have a mostly sanded product of 400 grit but would still see visible scratches that remained from the 180 grit.

You remove less and less material with each progressively finer grit. ie it takes longer to take out a scratch with 2000 grit than it would with 180 grit paper. More work would have to be done at the 220 grit level to make sure all the previous grit scratching is all now 220 grit. Hope that clarifies.

smalltank
07-21-2013, 01:55 PM
looks like there wasnt much deep pitting..more surface pitting ontop of the steel..regardless..good job ;-)

GeneC
07-21-2013, 05:45 PM
I'm not quite sure what you don't understand or are missing. It would be possible to sand something to 220 grit and move to 400 grit but not have all the deeper scratches sanded out from a 180 grit paper. Moving to 400 grit paper before removing all the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would be a waste of time because the deeper scratches from the 180 grit would still be visible. You'd have a mostly sanded product of 400 grit but would still see visible scratches that remained from the 180 grit.

You remove less and less material with each progressively finer grit. ie it takes longer to take out a scratch with 2000 grit than it would with 180 grit paper. More work would have to be done at the 220 grit level to make sure all the previous grit scratching is all now 220 grit. Hope that clarifies.

Ok, but wouldn't common sense tell you, for one, to not jump over numbers( of grit) , but even then, if you are sanding and are not removing scratches, you need to back up( in grit)......the whole point of sanding is to remove the scratches, right?.

KZero
07-21-2013, 09:15 PM
Ok, but wouldn't common sense tell you, for one, to not jump over numbers( of grit) , but even then, if you are sanding and are not removing scratches, you need to back up( in grit)......the whole point of sanding is to remove the scratches, right?.

Yes, that's pretty much the idea.
For example, if you're currently sanding at 180 grit, then move up to 320, you need to stay at 320 until all the scratches from the 180 are gone.
If you move on up to, say, 600 grit, any scratches from the 180 grit will stand out like a sore thumb.

It's easy sometimes to move up too quickly; sometimes the scratches from the previous grit looks like they are gone, then appear when you move up to the next-finer grit. And of course, patience (or lack thereof) is always a factor. There's nothing like thinking you're making real progress, only to see that you are going to have to step back down a grit to clean things up.
But when done properly, the results can be outstanding.