View Full Version : In Defense of Disposable Blade Straights
JPDyson
09-21-2010, 05:32 AM
Now, I don't mean to imply by my title that there's any prevailing sentiment that disposable blade straights are "bad"; if anything, I'm surprised by the number of gents who use them and speak quite highly of them. However, I do intend to explain why I think more new straight razor shavers might want to consider one of the finer disposable blade straight razors. This is a bit of a "musing" if you will, so excuse the apparent disregard for ordering fact and opinion in a more obvious way. It should all be taken with a grain of salt, and with a side of YMMV.
When you begin to shave with a straight razor, there are quite a few variables which impact the quality of your shave. Assuming it's not your first wet-shave, and you know how to make a good lather and prep your beard, you still have to contend with razor technique, stropping technique, and blade sharpness. Now, we tend to advise new straight razor shavers to pick up a passable strop that they won't mind damaging as they learn, and a shave-ready straight from a reputable source (be it a seasoned shaver or a well-known vendor of good repute). But what happens the first time that newbie shaver scrapes that blade across his beard? How about the first time he strops it? I contend that the edge is going to degrade rather quickly. Sure, you can run it across a pasted strop (perhaps you got the newbie kit from Larry Andro - it came with pasted balsa that's GREAT for touch ups). However, recall that ones stropping technique is still undeveloped. We might have a situation where you're learning with less than ideal blades (to state it conservatively - I truly believe "poor" edges could be argued after a few days in a newbie shaver's hands).
I think a good quality, disposable-blade straight is a great tool for such a shaver. If the edge degrades, simply replace it! There's no stropping, and no edge maintenance. Here, you can be sure that if you're getting poor shaves that are uncomfortable, that it's not your stropping, and not the edge. It allows you to focus on technique, and that (I contend) will help you identify stropping and edge maintenance errors more readily in the future.
What I did (this time - long story) was start with a KAI Captain, which is a cousin of the Feather AC (same blades, same basic look and feel). I had a few shaves under my belt with that before I bought my first and second traditional straight razors. The sellers said they were "sharp but not quite shave ready". I could now tell the difference. I sent them to a reputable honemeister (plug for Ambrose - he puts a killer edge on a blade), and they came back shaving well. While those razors were out getting honed, I still had something to use that required quite similar technique - I would argue no more adjustment than when using another type of straight razor, like the differences between a wedge and a singing extra hollow. I feel like I never missed a beat, and that the continuity in practice aided in developing my technique further, even while trying different equipment.
As a caveat, I will add that I believe there are "better" and "less ideal" disposable blade straight razors. I think the Feather AC/KAI Captain is a superb choice. It has good weight, a nice, rigid blade (offered in a few different varieties) and just has a general air of quality about it. I don't prefer the Dovo Shavette; I think it's too light, and don't like that it uses DE blades (which I don't consider great for straight razor style shaving). By way of comparison, I think my Captian with Feather Professional blades shaves quite like a nice Wedge - perhaps not as smooth, but quiet and with reasonable forgiveness to angle and direction (that is, it doesn't punish as much for not going perfectly "with the grain").
Perhaps I could have simply said that I think the Feather AC or the KAI Captain is a great starting point for a newbie, because it eliminates blade maintenance issues. I guess I arrived at that point in a sort of indulgent, round-about manner. Hopefully you'll excuse that, and find something helpful herein.
Enjoy your shaves, gents... however you get 'em done :thumbup1:
Gustav
09-21-2010, 05:59 AM
I have never tried the disposable straights but I do intend to sometime. You do make a very good point in that the less variables you have to contend with, the more likely you are to get a good shave.
That being said I must admit that the main reason that I have not tried the disposable is because, according to the reviews I have read, they are even less forgiving than a real straight and thus when you do make a mistake you are probably even more likely to do some real damage to yourself.
Seraphim
09-21-2010, 06:38 AM
I too am a fan of the disposable blade razor (KAI Captain Excella for me).
The Feather blades that are likely to be what you use in these razors are really what it's all about---sharp, reeeeeeaaal sharp! Even an extremely well honed traditional straight does not feel as sharp as these bad boys do for some reason. Yes, they do punish bad technique: weepers with too much pressure, cuts if you loose focus or angle....but with proper technique comes fantastic shaves, really very, very nice.
I've had about 10 shaves out of this SuperPro blade so far, and it still seems to be doing the job well. On a business trip, no strop to fit in the suitcase, a pack of extra blades in case I need one, and that's it.:thumbup1:
johnmrson
09-21-2010, 06:50 AM
I tried one of the Parker ones a while ago that used a half standard DE blade and I was far from impressed with it. I'm certainly interested in trying both a Kai and a Feather though. I've read nothing but good things about them.
JPDyson
09-21-2010, 08:27 AM
the main reason that I have not tried the disposable is because, according to the reviews I have read, they are even less forgiving than a real straight and thus when you do make a mistake you are probably even more likely to do some real damage to yourself.
This varies, depending on the instrument and the blade. A Shavette with a Feather? LETHAL. A Captain with a Feather Pro? Far less so. The blade is also shorter than a traditional straight, so I find I actually worry a little less about the tip.
I tried one of the Parker ones a while ago that used a half standard DE blade and I was far from impressed with it. I'm certainly interested in trying both a Kai and a Feather though. I've read nothing but good things about them.
I would humbly suggest a KAI razor, but a variety of both KAI and Feather blades. I get the impression that the KAI razors are a bit higher quality (and I believe they're all made with stainless steel - no plated brass). The stainless Feather is quite a bit more pricey than the KAI. I have a KAI Captain Standard, which is a stainless razor with a black plastic handle. I'm considering a non-folding KAI Captain Excelia (like Seraphim).
mikromicke
09-21-2010, 08:31 AM
Oooh, that's a really beautiful razor. Just the look of it makes me want to try some disposables :thumbup:
I too am a fan of the disposable blade razor (KAI Captain Excella for me).
The Feather blades that are likely to be what you use in these razors are really what it's all about---sharp, reeeeeeaaal sharp! Even an extremely well honed traditional straight does not feel as sharp as these bad boys do for some reason. Yes, they do punish bad technique: weepers with too much pressure, cuts if you loose focus or angle....but with proper technique comes fantastic shaves, really very, very nice.
I've had about 10 shaves out of this SuperPro blade so far, and it still seems to be doing the job well. On a business trip, no strop to fit in the suitcase, a pack of extra blades in case I need one, and that's it.:thumbup1:
MajorBurnz
09-21-2010, 08:32 AM
I tried one of the Parker ones a while ago that used a half standard DE blade and I was far from impressed with it. I'm certainly interested in trying both a Kai and a Feather though. I've read nothing but good things about them.
The Parkers and the Feather/Kai razors are completely different beasts, John.
I've used all the Feather and Kai models and I like them both equally. I preferred the Feather RG because of the price/function balance. I don't think plated brass is a bad thing. All my DE razors are plated brass, after all. :lol:
I found the folding type razors easier to use, as I'm used to them.
MikekiM
09-21-2010, 11:48 AM
I just started with a Feather AC... Like many others I don't want the labor involved in keeping the traditional straight sharp. At this point I still prefer DE but it's possible as my technique improves I will like the Feather more. But as I see it, I have never used a traditional straight hence don't know what I am missing...if, in fact, I am missing something.
This said, those Feather Professional blades are wicked.. I put a two inch slice in my chin from a split second of lost concentration. I would have to believe that executing the same ham-fisted maneuver with a tradtional would have yielded the same result and the same volume of blood.
JPDyson
09-21-2010, 11:54 AM
MikekiM, I believe you're correct - I don't think an AC would put a big slice where a traditional straight wouldn't. Severity might be variable, though. Perhaps a few weepers with a Feather that you wouldn't get with a Filarmonica... it's why I wish the KAI blades were more prevalent (but they're hard to come by).
michiganlover
09-21-2010, 11:56 AM
The Parkers and the Feather/Kai razors are completely different beasts, John.
+1
The Parker using a 1/2 DE blade, and the Feather/Kai are entirely different beasts. The differences are night and day.
Some would argue the Shavette style razors that use a 1/2 DE blade were not even designed for shaving the face.
I have a Kai Captain Excelia (all stainless steel razor), and a Parker Shavette. The Kai feels like, and shaves similar to a real straight. I can put it down for a few weeks, and still expect to get good shaves with it.
The Shavette using a 1/2 DE blade is not forgiving at all, and taking a break from it means you will likely get a less than perfect shave when you resume shaving with it. It demands perfect technique, or you get punished with lots of cuts.
I plan to sell off my Parker Shavette, as I find it too difficult to get a reliable top quality shave from it.
MikekiM
09-21-2010, 12:36 PM
speaking of blades...
I have read a few reviews of the Feather AC with praise going to the Pro-Guard blades. In fact, there were two or three folks who rely on the guarded blades as their main blade.
I tried the Pro-Guard for my first two shaves and though I didn't cut myself (Feather claims it is impossible to cut yourself with these) the shave was disappointing.. not close in the least. Maybe WTG DE close.
I also thought having the guarded blades were likely to prevent me from developing top level technique and since the closeness I achieved using them was not up to par, I ditched them. In retrospect, I did the right thing. Had I kept them I might not have the scab that is currently on my chin, but I also would have a slightly less level of respect for the Feather system.
As the sink water turned crimson, I swore I was going to sell the Feather AC the next day (or as soon as I can post in the classified forum) I have recommitted to the mastery of this blade. I'll get cut again. This I am certain.
michiganlover
09-21-2010, 01:22 PM
I tried the Pro-Guard for my first two shaves and though I didn't cut myself (Feather claims it is impossible to cut yourself with these)
If Feather claims it is impossible to cut yourself with a ProGuard blade, they are dead wrong. :lol::lol:
I have used the same ProGuard in my Kai Captain for about 8 shaves. I have gotten nicks, and weepers on each shave with the ProGuard.
shawnmaze
09-21-2010, 06:50 PM
I have also gotten nicks and weepers with ProGuards.
BUT I agree and love learning straight basics with my Feather AC. I struggled with things like how to hold the blade to shave the various directions of growth across my face, getting angles on my chin, using left hand, how to see best in mirror, etc. I would hate it if I had to be worried about another aspect like stropping. I am looking into a genuine straight now, but doubt I will forsake my Feather much since learning to use it has proven worthwhile and the results are great.
BEAR DEN
09-21-2010, 07:59 PM
Good points. I am a recent convert to both Feather AC and KAI.
One thing that seems to bother a lot of str8 users at the beginning.is whether or not the razor is shave ready.
If you take that variable our then it is much easier to admit that your technique needs more practice.
I agree that the Feather blades are extremely sharp...and less forgiving then my str8s. I wipe the blade off with a wash cloth to tame them down...I guess that would.be a form of corking.
That's how I started the straight razor journey a few years back. With a shavette...
It worked but it was more a 'am I going to die' type of challenge every Sunday. I then moved back to Mach3. The experience wasn't that bad but I wasn't looking forward to it...
I then found B&B (like most) and did some research and decided let's do this again, no idea when Shavette #1 is so I bought another one.
Tried it, pretty much same experience than Shavette #1, I wasn't that happy with the shaves. I mean, it's not a bad tool or anything, it's good for some but it didn't work for me. I then got a straight well, many straights, I had more non-shave-ready straights than shave ready straight very quickly, practice with it and found the shaves to be much more enjoyable.
Again, the why I got a straight with disposable blades was that I didn't want to take care of the blade with the hones/strop. Today, I don't regret having my hone and strop for one bit!
The shavette might be why I don't like framebacks...
ImaWestie
09-22-2010, 05:51 AM
I plan to sell off my Parker Shavette, as I find it too difficult to get a reliable top quality shave from it.
For the price I paid for a Wahl version of the same thing, i am suprised these are salable second hand.
FWIW, I quite enjoyed shaving with a Wahl shavette, I found it less frustrating than the maintenance issues I'm having with a real straight, and had I not been given a vintage gillette de in a pif, I would be using it again as my daily shave.
As it is, the DE is proving way too easy to shave with so I'm waiting for my laziness to lead to some sort of misadventure. Something I never felt with the shavette.
You make a convincing argument.
One reason I didn't start with disposable straights is that I did hear they were harder to use, and also the idea of throwing blades away made me feel like I wasn't really doing anything different than a DE. The second point is unimportant but that is what I felt.
JPDyson
09-22-2010, 06:52 AM
You make a convincing argument.
One reason I didn't start with disposable straights is that I did hear they were harder to use, and also the idea of throwing blades away made me feel like I wasn't really doing anything different than a DE. The second point is unimportant but that is what I felt.
Gull, thanks for your response! I do think there's some weight to the argument that, as a lot, disposable blade straights are somewhat less forgiving. I think the "Artist Club/Captain" type are better than the "Shavette" type, but this I believe is still true. However, I have sliced myself with a traditional straight, and have not done so with my KAI. YMMV.
As to your second point, do you mean environmentally, as you're still tossing blades, or in the sense that it's still just a replaceable blade device, not one piece of steel? I think the former is up to your personal conviction, but the latter is categorically true (and half the point - that's why it's a great bridge between the two, as you first adapt to the technique, and then the maintenance later).
Don't let anybody tell you that what you "feel" on the matter is unimportant - it's your face, and your shave, so YOU make the call. :thumbup1:
it's still just a replaceable blade device, not one piece of steel?
More of this. When I switched to straights, I did so because A) a lot of people said you get better shaves with a straight and B) because it was a different system not just another disposable. Something about maintaining one piece of metal was alluring to me.
I think more people would consider disposable straights if there were more topics/sticky here that dealt with them. As a newbie coming here a month ago, my impression was that disposable straights were unwieldy and just a hurried solution for barbers after Gov. regulations. I also thought there were no differences between disposable straights and shavettes.
My solution, if I was lord of this forum, is a sticky that makes a case for disposables, such as you have done, but also includes descriptions and comparisons for all the difference types of disposables and shavettes. If I knew there was a cheap and safe disposable I would have tried it out when I was first starting :thumbup1:
Seraphim
09-22-2010, 09:52 AM
I went past a barbershop here in Osaka today, and the barber was wielding a Feather AC RG, non-folding. The guy really looked like he knew what he was doing:thumbup1:.
California Cajun
09-22-2010, 10:20 AM
Now, I don't mean to imply by my title that there's any prevailing sentiment that disposable blade straights are "bad"; if anything, I'm surprised by the number of gents who use them and speak quite highly of them. However, I do intend to explain why I think more new straight razor shavers might want to consider one of the finer disposable blade straight razors. This is a bit of a "musing" if you will, so excuse the apparent disregard for ordering fact and opinion in a more obvious way. It should all be taken with a grain of salt, and with a side of YMMV.
When you begin to shave with a straight razor, there are quite a few variables which impact the quality of your shave. Assuming it's not your first wet-shave, and you know how to make a good lather and prep your beard, you still have to contend with razor technique, stropping technique, and blade sharpness. Now, we tend to advise new straight razor shavers to pick up a passable strop that they won't mind damaging as they learn, and a shave-ready straight from a reputable source (be it a seasoned shaver or a well-known vendor of good repute). But what happens the first time that newbie shaver scrapes that blade across his beard? How about the first time he strops it? I contend that the edge is going to degrade rather quickly. Sure, you can run it across a pasted strop (perhaps you got the newbie kit from Larry Andro - it came with pasted balsa that's GREAT for touch ups). However, recall that ones stropping technique is still undeveloped. We might have a situation where you're learning with less than ideal blades (to state it conservatively - I truly believe "poor" edges could be argued after a few days in a newbie shaver's hands).
I think a good quality, disposable-blade straight is a great tool for such a shaver. If the edge degrades, simply replace it! There's no stropping, and no edge maintenance. Here, you can be sure that if you're getting poor shaves that are uncomfortable, that it's not your stropping, and not the edge. It allows you to focus on technique, and that (I contend) will help you identify stropping and edge maintenance errors more readily in the future.
What I did (this time - long story) was start with a KAI Captain, which is a cousin of the Feather AC (same blades, same basic look and feel). I had a few shaves under my belt with that before I bought my first and second traditional straight razors. The sellers said they were "sharp but not quite shave ready". I could now tell the difference. I sent them to a reputable honemeister (plug for Ambrose - he puts a killer edge on a blade), and they came back shaving well. While those razors were out getting honed, I still had something to use that required quite similar technique - I would argue no more adjustment than when using another type of straight razor, like the differences between a wedge and a singing extra hollow. I feel like I never missed a beat, and that the continuity in practice aided in developing my technique further, even while trying different equipment.
As a caveat, I will add that I believe there are "better" and "less ideal" disposable blade straight razors. I think the Feather AC/KAI Captain is a superb choice. It has good weight, a nice, rigid blade (offered in a few different varieties) and just has a general air of quality about it. I don't prefer the Dovo Shavette; I think it's too light, and don't like that it uses DE blades (which I don't consider great for straight razor style shaving). By way of comparison, I think my Captian with Feather Professional blades shaves quite like a nice Wedge - perhaps not as smooth, but quiet and with reasonable forgiveness to angle and direction (that is, it doesn't punish as much for not going perfectly "with the grain").
Perhaps I could have simply said that I think the Feather AC or the KAI Captain is a great starting point for a newbie, because it eliminates blade maintenance issues. I guess I arrived at that point in a sort of indulgent, round-about manner. Hopefully you'll excuse that, and find something helpful herein.
Enjoy your shaves, gents... however you get 'em done :thumbup1:
I can attest to the steep learning curve in trying to learn straights. I started Easter weekend this year and it just began to "click" during the past two weeks that I could be assured of a great shave without the carnage...and I haven't even taken up the subject of honing yet. But it was something I wanted to do and enjoyed the ride even though it got frustrating at times. Right now I feel like I really accomplished something.
When I was about to start I considered a Feather but at the end of the day decided that I didn't want to get locked into a specialty-type blade. I tried the Shavette (and still have it) specifically because I had the flexibility of using a DE blade and shredded myself, but did it enough to know that I could master this like a regular straight. I buy medical grade blades to reduce the variables you might get from a blade bought at a drug store or department store. I'll eventually try the Shavette again since I've gotten the straight down to consider for use as a travel razor. Otherwise, I just love the Merkur Slant which, if I had to leave for a trip tomorrow, would choose in a heartbeat.
I've read rave reviews about the Feather, so there is a lot of support for your recommendations.
dpmtherrien
09-22-2010, 06:22 PM
For my straight shaving, I use only disposable blade straights. I'll admit my main straights are the Kai, I have both the folding and the non folding, and the Feather AC's, here again I have both the folding AC DX, and the non folding AC. I also have the folding RG. As has been mentioned these are top of the line, quality straights, but I also have 3 of the Parker straights razors. I have the SRW, the SRB, and the chrome straight. Unlike several other members I find the Parker's to be a good quality straight. Yes they are on the light side, but they still have enough heft to give a nice shave. :thumbup1:
When I first tried straight shaving I started with a Dove shavette. This razor I found to be pure junk. There was no weight at all to the thing, and I had nicks and cuts galore. :thumbdown I got rid of it after that one shave, and bought the Feather AC RG razor.
As for a disposable blade straight being less "forgiving" than a regular straight, I'm not really sure just what that means. Now I say that having never ever used a traditional straight. But you can't tell me that if your technique is off, or you lose your focus, that a regular straight is not going to dig in and cut you the same as a disposable blade straight. I believe that using any open blade razor is going to have the same results. I also don't really see where the learning curve between the two is going to be any longer or shorter either way. If anything using a straight that uses half a DE blade, even though its a shorter blade, it will probable have more flex than a traditional ridged bladed regular straight. No matter which straight razor one chooses its still that old open and exposed blade straight, and care must be taken, much practice is needed, and time to develop good technique is required. Once these things are done really good quality shaves are the end result.
A disposable blade straight is nothing to be looked down upon or poo pooed about. If one has the desire to straight shave, and is willing to work at it and learn the technique, I'm sure the shaves obtained can be compared on an even par to those obtained from a regular straight. :thumbup:
I've been shaving with disposable blade straights right from the start, now for almost 18 months. My shaves are excellent, I can move that disposable blade straight over all parts of my face, I use both hands, and the old nick or cut is a very rare thing now. But I still consider myself as still working on my technique with the straight. Each and every shave however, gets better and better, and I learn and improve almost every time. :w00t:
Seraphim
09-22-2010, 11:55 PM
DP, The disposable blades are less forgiving because they are crazy-sharp. I like have a super-well honed traditional straight, and I can tell you that a "regular" straight is much less prone to weepers and such than a Feather loaded razor.
That is both a blessing and a curse for the Feather user. It can either inflict pain and damage, or it can give an effortless shave. The fact that they are indeed so very sharp both allows for the lightest of touches when shaving, while at the same time punishing if too much pressure is applied (weepers at least).
Practice and familiarity is key in my mind. My first few shaves were weeper city, and I feared a fresh blade. Now, even with a new blade I am loving the easy close shaves it gives, but that has taken some practice.
There seems to have been a recent renaissance in the disposable razor, perhaps due to Telly's latest KAI group buy. It always seemed to be kind of a fringe thing previously. Now it seems more prevalent.
globetrotterjon
09-23-2010, 02:32 AM
I have to say, it's a very interesting transition, from Feather to traditional Straight. I've been shaving with the Feather loaded with ProGuards for a month or so...while i've managed to prove you can nick yourself with the ProGuards, I will say the shave is rather effortless by comparison with a straight. I was getting good, consisten BBS results by my third shave with a Feather on two passes. I THOUGHT i was ready for a real straight. My first shave with a King Cutter proved me wrong. It was a bit of a battle, especially around the chin. One minor nick...ok looks like a small fencing scar...but the learning curve is significant. Day two with the Eskiltuna went far better...
Seraphim
09-23-2010, 03:15 AM
I have to say, it's a very interesting transition, from Feather to traditional Straight. I've been shaving with the Feather loaded with ProGuards for a month or so...while i've managed to prove you can nick yourself with the ProGuards, I will say the shave is rather effortless by comparison with a straight. I was getting good, consisten BBS results by my third shave with a Feather on two passes. I THOUGHT i was ready for a real straight. My first shave with a King Cutter proved me wrong. It was a bit of a battle, especially around the chin. One minor nick...ok looks like a small fencing scar...but the learning curve is significant. Day two with the Eskiltuna went far better...
The key with a traditional straight is that they too must be honedto incedible shapness. If not, the results are not very satisfying.
ImaWestie
09-24-2010, 05:28 AM
The key with a traditional straight is that they too must be honedto incedible shapness. If not, the results are not very satisfying.
Hear here! Until I've had a meetup to teach me how to strop I've relegated the traditional straight. Hoping to have a go with it in 2-3 weeks.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.