So what TOOLS do I need to restore Brushes?

[rodeo]

I have to admit, I am becomming pretty intrigued with the idea of restoring old brush handles, to collect and also for possible resale too. If I wanted to do this right, more or less on an ongoing basis, what tools would I need etc?

I am thinking a small drill press etc? (again, not a hand drill as this would be for ongoing restorations.)


So what tools would be "ideal" to have?
What would be needed to clean and polish handles?
What supplies are best advised?
Are there any "step by step" instructions anywhere about restorations?
Lastly, what sources are there for knots and are there any BOAR or Synthetic Knots available for purchase?


If I do it, I'm going to want to do it right and not just for one or two brushes. I like the idea of restoring old handles and have seen some pretty nice looking restorations here on these forum pages.

Thanks for your advice! I have a feeling I might really enjoy that aspect as a hobby.

[antoine1]

I found a Dremel type of mini drill to be best for removing the old resin plug, more useful than a drill press for this type of detail work.

You can then purchase all types of accessories for it, including polishing mop needed.

[mretzloff]

The Gold Nib (http://www.thegoldennib.com/) sells hair knots. I used them before and they are good. Be sure to pick up some marine-grade epoxy as well.

[Luc]

As stated above.

Marine epoxy to glue the knot
A knot
A ruler to measure the hole
A pair of pliers
Scissors are optional
Corkscrew is optional
Dremel can be useful but I didn't use one
Drill can be useful but I didn't use one

[Legion]

Most of my restores have only involved

Needle nose pliers
various grades of wet/ dry sandpaper
epoxy
ruler
calipers
polish (Brasso and Renaissance Wax)

And occasionally my Dremel if things got really tough, but it is a last resort. Things can go wrong very quickly with a Dremel if you lose concentration.

[rodeo]

Whats the process?

Remove the old knot, cut it off? pull it out?
clean out the hole of glue etc. (with what if not drilled?)
Polish the handle
glue in new knot

?

[mretzloff]

Whats the process?

Remove the old knot, cut it off? pull it out?
clean out the hole of glue etc. (with what if not drilled?)
Polish the handle
glue in new knot

?

Here is what I did when I restores my grandfather's boar brush:

1. I cut off the hair and then soaked the brush in warm water to loosen the knot.

2. I used a drill to drill into the glue. I then picked out all the pieces. Just be careful not to drill into the handle.

3. After the pieces were removed, I mixed my two-part marine-grade epoxy and pour a little bit into the hole and put the knot on top of that. The epoxy should come with instructions for how long to let it sit before using it.

[Legion]

Remove the knot. First I try just pulling on it (you never know your luck...) If that doesn't work I cut it off, start pulling out the hairs from the middle to the outside with pliers. I clean out the inside with sandpaper (or a Dremel or a drill or whatever is required. Avoid power tools if possible.)

Sand the handle, up to 1500 grit. Restore the lettering if you want to. (I forgot to add paint, a brush and a cloth to the tools list)

Polish with Brasso. Apply Renaissance Wax and buff. Fill the handle if necessary, let set. Epoxy in the knot. Done.

[fidjit]

Here's the "tools" I use to remove knots:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v497/limbot/Kent%20V8/P1010261.jpg

From there depends on the brush itself. You MIGHT need a drill, you might needs some sandpaper , you may need a cork , you WILL need some two part expoy :001_smile

( Oh and you'll need a new knot :001_smile )

See my wiki ( in my sig ) for some useful posts ( especially Kevinms (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=153908) )

[rodeo]

Great stuff guys, Thank you very much! The tools look easier then I imagined and I have most of that stuff already. I have a few handles around and one I was going to throw into the trash but instead would be good to sacrifice and practice on first.

I was glad to see there are boar and synthetic knots available as I will appreciate those choices for my personal keepers.

Once you glue the knot in, does the epoxy need to come up level with the top of the handle (potted if you understand what I mean) or does the glue only go into the bottom of the knot?

Also, you mentioned Brasso, what handles do you use that on? What do I use to clean and polish the older Ever-ready handles (rubber, bakelite, catalin, etc.) ?

I'll try pulling the knot on my trial brush this coming weekend.

cork?? for what?

[Luc]

Great stuff guys, Thank you very much! The tools look easier then I imagined and I have most of that stuff already. I have a few handles around and one I was going to throw into the trash but instead would be good to sacrifice and practice on first.

I was glad to see there are boar and synthetic knots available as I will appreciate those choices for my personal keepers.

Once you glue the knot in, does the epoxy need to come up level with the top of the handle (potted if you understand what I mean) or does the glue only go into the bottom of the knot?

Also, you mentioned Brasso, what handles do you use that on? What do I use to clean and polish the older Ever-ready handles (rubber, bakelite, catalin, etc.) ?

I'll try pulling the knot on my trial brush this coming weekend.

cork?? for what?

I glue my knot everywhere, under, the sides...

I didn't use brasso on my handles just a fine steel wool (next to the dishsoap cleaning products). I used it on plastic handles

The cork would be used as a shim to have the knot at the right height. Specially if you don't have any bottoms in the handle or if it's really deep so the knot can rest on it.

[rodeo]

So, this is NOT Rocket Science after all! :thumbup1:

I was picturing something much more involved but this is more like whittling on a hunk of wood with a pen knife.

Please explain what you use on the handles again, you're using steel wool on the plastic handles?

[skipnord]

I use a drill press and Forstner bits to remove the old knot, but I'm a tool freak - you can see by the above posts that a press is not necessary. A drum sander on a Dremel is great for cleaning up the inside of the hole. A caliper to measure the hole for new knots is handy. Spar Varnish works well to refinish wood handles - CA glue also works well, but can be tricky to handle - this from a guy that got careless and glued 2 fingers together - that's another story! The polish and steel wool is for the plastic part of the handle. Good luck, and have fun! Good that you have some throw-a-ways to practice on.

[jwhite]

I use toothpaste and an old tooth brush too clean old handles of soap scum if needed, and I have had bad luck with steel wool on plastic handles leaves 'em looking like sort of a mat finish to my eyes. I like to use automotive plastic scratch remover. Any auto parts store will have it. If it will remove the scratches from headlight covers it's the right stuff. I use a rag wheel buff to bring out a good shine

[rodeo]

Well I just bought a Dremel 300 with kit just in case it comes in handy doing restorations. I found a really great deal (it seems) in case anyone else is looking for one. $49.13 plus very reasonable $6.99 shipping. Most others get allot more for these. (300-1/24) brand new sealed package, vendor has 10 of them listed. I'm sure it will come in handy.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130410394821&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

IT'S BUY IT NOW, NOT AN AUCTION

[johnmrson]

I use a cordless drill, a Dremel with a few different attachments, some strong 2 pck epoxy resin and a pair of pointy nose pliers.

I firstly cut off the old knot at the base with a cutting wheel on the Dremel. I makes very short work of it although the burning hair smell isn't too pleasant. I then drill 3 or 4 big holes into the old knot base. The knot will then mostly pull out with the pliers. I then tidy up the hole with a sanding drum on the Dremel and it's then ready to measure up for the new knot. If the hole is in between knot sizes, I'll bore it out further with the sanding drum. Then it's just a case of glueing a new knot in the hole. If the outside of the handle needs a polish I use a polishing wheel on the Dremel with some car paint cutting compound and polish.
If I can do it successfully, it really is easy. Just buy a couple of really cheap old brushes and have a go.

[Schwert]

Definitely not rocket science. A handful of tools or a shop full of tools all can get it done in style.

This is my favorite of the how-to threads....

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2172915#post2172915

[rodeo]

Definitely not rocket science. A handful of tools or a shop full of tools all can get it done in style.

This is my favorite of the how-to threads....

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?p=2172915#post2172915

Gives me even more confidence! Thanks.

[Legion]

I don't use the steel wool.

I use wet/ dry sandpaper (wet) Up to the 1500 grit on all plastic, Bakelite handles (Be careful on butterscotch, it can sand away if you are too enthusiastic) and then the Brasso as the next polishing step. Brasso works because it is a fine abrasive. As someone else said, You can use toothpaste as and even finer abrasive after that. This is also a good way to polish acrylic so it is glossy or transparent (if you were making straight razor scales, etc.)

Brush restores are actually one of the simpler DIY jobs in wet shaving. You do not need expensive tools. Just a bit of elbow grease.

Oh, and don't use too much epoxy. Just a two or three mm layer on the bottom of the hole should be enough. It will squish up the sides a bit when you seat the knot. If you put too much in, it will go up over the lip and into the knot, causing all sorts of drama.

[K.T.]

It's my understanding that marine grade epoxy is not necessary, just any two part mix epoxy.

I think the main benefit of marine grade epoxy is that it will bond surfaces together underwater, probably not necessary for brush restores. All epoxies will be waterproof once cured, so there should be no difference in the end unless you are, in fact, gluing your knot to your handle underwater. That's my understanding, anyway. But the difference in price between the two is insignificant, so if you don't already have epoxy on hand it wouldn't hurt to go with marine grade.

Someone mentioned putting that blue masking tape used for painting on the outside of the handle while sanding and scraping. I think that's a good idea. It'll give some protection to the handle's surface if there's a slip of a tool.

I'm looking to do my first restores this coming month, myself. I'm excited, too!

[Luc]

So, this is NOT Rocket Science after all! :thumbup1:

I was picturing something much more involved but this is more like whittling on a hunk of wood with a pen knife.

Please explain what you use on the handles again, you're using steel wool on the plastic handles?

I did yes... It's a very very fine steel wool. I'll take a picture later...

[Umbranaut]

I will stress again not to use too much epoxy. I have put too much epoxy in the hole of the handle before. The knot acts like a wick and the epoxy will climb right up the hairs. This leaves an unsightly glue mark on the knot and makes it look bad. All I use for epoxy now is marine grade. I have one brush I put together about 6 months ago come apart. I had used regular two part epoxy. Now I don't trust its use.

Terry

[Umbranaut]

Another thing I just thought of. Before glueing the knot in the handle take a Q-Tip or a rag soaked with alcohol and clean the hole and bottom of the knot.
This will remove any dust or oils and ensure a good bond between the surfaces.

Terry

[spanx]

I'm one for the drill press.I use a mini variable speed.Used to use a dremel but you have to be very cautious because of the speeds that a dremel runs.I drill out the bulk of the knot with the press and then chuck up the dremel drum sander bit on lowest speed the press operates at to clean up the hole.There's alot more control this way.One other thing is that if you want to open the bore up a little bit you can use a stepped drill bit to enlarge the rim, then use a drum sander bit to sand out the cavity to match the rim.Those old brushes look alot better with bigger knots and usually the handles have plenty of material to work with.

[fidjit]

Another thing I just thought of. Before glueing the knot in the handle take a Q-Tip or a rag soaked with alcohol and clean the hole and bottom of the knot.
This will remove any dust or oils and ensure a good bond between the surfaces.

Terry

I normally score the sides and the bottom of the knot holder and the sides and bottom of the handle with a small knife or pin or something similar.

I only put a small amount of epoxy on the base and the edges of the knot holder. Better too little than too much as I can always re glue if it ever falls out but if I get epoxy on the bristles or oozing out the top there's no turning back .....

[Legion]

I normally score the sides and the bottom of the knot holder and the sides and bottom of the handle with a small knife or pin or something similar.

I only put a small amount of epoxy on the base and the edges of the knot holder. Better too little than too much as I can always re glue if it ever falls out but if I get epoxy on the bristles or oozing out the top there's no turning back .....
You can save it if you are quick and have lots of ethanol handy but, gee you would rather not have to, it's a bad feeling.

I'm with you, I would rather possibly re-glue a knot in some distant future date than to try and clean up an epoxy disaster zone.

[Luc]

Here they are, the steel wool that I used on the plastic handles. They are not the big heavy duty ones... It worked pretty well on the white plastic, it's now actually, white!

[Legion]

I would have thought that would scratch the handle up. Do you sand after or what, Luc?

[Luc]

I would have thought that would scratch the handle up. Do you sand after or what, Luc?

No, very light pressure and I ended up with a nice smooth handle.

[rodeo]

No, very light pressure and I ended up with a nice smooth handle.

Those look like "Brillo" pads, pink soap and all. I'll have to try that out on a sacrificial trial handle.

I picked up a genuine butterscotch handle last week and in the process of doing the tests to see if it was real "catalin" dipped it in very hot (maybe too hot) water and the water removed some of the butterscotch color from the handle. I saw the water begin to turn yellow. That forced me to redip the entire handle to try to even it out, which it did. However it did lose some of its butterscotch shine and appeal and appears much more muted now. So that experience has me leery (and that was just hot water!) The handle did pass the 409 test and the smell test too, so I'm pretty sure it is catalin. I won't be using the hot water test again I dont think.

You dont think the steel wool would remove the butterscotch patina as well? maybe I'l try it on that same handle.

[Luc]

No idea... Those are pretty mild but worked quickly after all...

[fidjit]

You dont think the steel wool would remove the butterscotch patina as well? maybe I'l try it on that same handle.

I would be very light with the cleaning especially with steel wool. Hot water shouldn't wash the real Butterscotch pantina off. I suspect what came off might have been the "dirt" layer.

The butterscotch layer is an "oxidised" layer on the white catalin.

Excessive cleaning WILL remove the lovely creamy butterscotch layer so be very..very light and careful !!!!!

I normally just do a light clean with Silvo ............

[rodeo]

Can this be correct?

$45 for a small syringe of marine Epoxy?? :blink:

http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/ace-marine-epoxy-85-oz-syringe-p-1448.html?ref=42

[saabaru]

First, THANKS ALOT! Just what I need! :sarcasum: :lol: I just had to read this...Great, now SWMBO is really going to love the fact I have to at least try this now! I am very anxious to try it! As far as dremels go, I got this combo from my brother for X-mas. Works very well! very controllable compared to "standard" dremel.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41BEVKUbqbL.jpg

*Rodeo- I think that is a little too much. It shouldn't be any more than a few dollars. I dont know, if you are aware, but that is for six(6) tubes. Any epoxy will work... it is just that some are made specifically for certain things, but all should work given ample time to cure. I have a bunch of aircraft grade epoxy from work surplus, that is what I am gonig to use.

[saabaru]

Sorry fot the double post, but I had to share this!! :lol: It's made from a paint brush! +1 for innovation though!

http://www.instructables.com/image/F4RWPBKG3CAMNDX/How-to-make-a-shaving-brush.jpg

[rodeo]

First, THANKS ALOT! Just what I need! :sarcasum: :lol: I just had to read this...Great, now SWMBO is really going to love the fact I have to at least try this now! I am very anxious to try it! As far as dremels go, I got this combo from my brother for X-mas. Works very well! very controllable compared to "standard" dremel.

*Rodeo- I think that is a little too much. It shouldn't be any more than a few dollars. I dont know, if you are aware, but that is for six(6) tubes. Any epoxy will work... it is just that some are made specifically for certain things, but all should work given ample time to cure. I have a bunch of aircraft grade epoxy from work surplus, that is what I am gonig to use.

Thanks and no, I didn't realize that price was for six tubes.

I looked into that same dremel last night and was very interested in it until I read a bunch of reviews, all with a common theme. The battery (they say) has a short life it seems and doesn't hold much charge after owning it a while. I decided to go with a corded dremel 300 instead. That does look like a great package though, the right size and all.

[rodeo]

Sorry fot the double post, but I had to share this!! :lol: It's made from a paint brush! +1 for innovation though!

And I'll bet both would "sell' on ebay! :biggrin1:

[saabaru]

I have had zero issues with it. I dremel itself is great! Has the adjustable speeds (1-10) and I use it a few times a month. I know it isn't getting an industrial workout at my house, but it works when I need it! The bit driver is sweet! I have a corded ryobi drill for heavy duty things, but everythnig else, I use that dremel one. It is a beast. We just had a baby and I have only charged it once about 2 months ago. Haven't used it much but I used it to put together a crib, dresser, and glider...I can still keep going! I haven't priced them, but if it is under $100 or $75, definitely worth it! I hope everything works out for you! I want to start making my own brushes now!! Now...where to get a mini lathe... :lol:

[rodeo]

I have had zero issues with it. I dremel itself is great! Has the adjustable speeds (1-10) and I use it a few times a month. I know it isn't getting an industrial workout at my house, but it works when I need it! The bit driver is sweet! I have a corded ryobi drill for heavy duty things, but everythnig else, I use that dremel one. It is a beast. We just had a baby and I have only charged it once about 2 months ago. Haven't used it much but I used it to put together a crib, dresser, and glider...I can still keep going! I haven't priced them, but if it is under $100 or $75, definitely worth it! I hope everything works out for you! I want to start making my own brushes now!! Now...where to get a mini lathe... :lol:

Congrats on the new Baby! Is it a boy so you eventually teach him to shave? Or will that be Mom's duties? (girl). We "noobs" need to stick together and share information as we hit stumbling blocks restoring these brushes. Compare notes so to speak.. Right? :thumbup1: (I did just also buy a mini suction cup vice today though.)

($28 new, shipped - from TMS Wholesale)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BIN38E/sr=8-1/qid=1280246778/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&qid=1280246778&sr=8-1&seller=
http://m2.sourcingmap.com/smap/images/item/n/09b/ux_a09060300ux0004_ux_n.jpg

[saabaru]

And I'll bet both would "sell' on ebay! :biggrin1:

haha I bet they would too, but I wouldn't buy either! I would use SWMBO's make-up brush before I spent my hard earn $ on one of those!

BUT...I have to say, seeing the one, makes me think how neat an " industrial" looking brush would look. :tongue_sm

[rodeo]

haha I bet they would too, but I wouldn't buy either! I would use SWMBO's make-up brush before I spent my hard earn $ on one of those!

BUT...I have to say, seeing the one, makes me think how neat an " industrial" looking brush would look. :tongue_sm

You know, if you're a "tradesman" like a plumber or pipe fitter etc, I could see buying and using a brush made with that nipple as a handle. What it needs though is a clear urethene rubber type chair leg cap to cover the threads (which are sharp) and a real knot mounted on top and I'll bet you could sell some of those!

[saabaru]

Rodeo- It is a boy. So now I have 2 boys I can teach to shave!! :lol: Hayden just turned 3 on the 4th July, and aby Cohen was born 25th June (10 weeks early) but he is doing great!