View Full Version : First Attempt to restore a straight
Now, I didn't take proper pictures of the straight before but I have a few of the straight from Bit2 before he sent it to me. It's a 11/16 - Frederick Reynolds - Sheffield.
So far, nothing serious, around 2 hours work with a 600 sandpaper... I would need something a bit more aggressive for some bits and pieces (400 probably) and I want a 1000 or 1200 to finish the blade.
It's already pretty good. I didn't think it would be like that.
Why 600? My local hardware store s....k and only had that in stock or 100... So I went for the smootest one...
I'm not done, there are still some imperfections on the blade that I want to get rid of. That's why I need a 400. Tiny bits here and there.
This is fun!
Drastic improvement so far.
Probably get a nice shine with that higher grit paper.
Good work,
John
professorchaos
11-25-2009, 12:32 PM
Looks good so far! My I offer one wee bit of advice? Sand from spine to edge. Whatever scratches aren't removed will look like grind marks. Scratches running from heel to toe tend to stand out.
Cheers John!
Thanks Henry, point taken, I was sanding from tip to toe... I noticed that it was scratching a bit more. Circles weren't that good. I will try it.
I will get different grits this week!
Muirtach
11-25-2009, 03:05 PM
Looks good so far! My I offer one wee bit of advice? Sand from spine to edge. Whatever scratches aren't removed will look like grind marks. Scratches running from heel to toe tend to stand out.
That is a great tip I have never noticed before and one that I just happened to discover on my own this last week.
leighton
11-25-2009, 03:21 PM
Looks good so far! My I offer one wee bit of advice? Sand from spine to edge. Whatever scratches aren't removed will look like grind marks. Scratches running from heel to toe tend to stand out.
Yup.
However, its a lot easier to do that with power tools. Not saying you should go out and buy one...
Kidding. What you want to help you sand spine to edge by hand is a magnetic jig to hold the blade in place. Instructions for building one can be found at Bill's blog. Do not have the url off hand. You'll have to dig it up.
persco
11-25-2009, 06:01 PM
http://razortips.blogspot.com/2009/02/making-blade-safety-jig.html
s.
Thanks all the tips. I got more sandpaper yesterday. 280-400-1200 (I already have 600).
To be continued this week-end...
Cedrck
11-27-2009, 01:53 PM
Looking good so far, when the time comes to hone, you may have to pay special attention to the toe end of the edge.
chainfire
11-27-2009, 02:09 PM
Kidding. What you want to help you sand spine to edge by hand is a magnetic jig to hold the blade in place. Instructions for building one can be found at Bill's blog. Do not have the url off hand. You'll have to dig it up.
Ray-Man sells this gigs cheap (it seems to me anyway) here on B&B (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=115819) or over at SRP (http://straightrazorplace.com/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/4644/cat/6).
Sanding is going well. I tried to do up and down as suggested by Henry, I think I will go that at the end. For some reasons, going from left-right on the blade seems to be more effective.
I used some 220/600/1200 on the blade. I still have some scratches but they need a close look to be seen. I will work on that. I think that I should get a 800 grit paper.
I still have some stains here and there, hopefully, session #3 should do the trick!
mdunn
11-29-2009, 12:18 PM
its coming along nicely
remember to get rid of all the scratches you want to get rid of before moving to a higher grit
Cedrck
11-29-2009, 03:09 PM
Those pits at the spine may be left alone, they won’t affect honing or shaving… unless you prefer an absolutely clean blade but it’s looking good so far.
Thanks Gents. I still need to work it with the 220 for a bit. I'll try to get rid of the pitting on the blade. The black spot in the middle (pic #4) was worked on for at least 60 minutes yesterday... It was 3 time that size, I think I can still reduce it.
I broke the scales on my Wade & Butcher as I did some sanding a bit on that one. It's allowing me to do the full blade. Pitting on that one too, I can post some pictures later.
It's coming together nicely!
I will have some more work right after this one...
Got this from ebay yesterday!
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/picture.php?albumid=835&pictureid=1704
I just finished sanding the Frederick Reynold, I will be sending it for honing tomorrow.
While I was at it, I started the William Webster (above) and will post all the pictures tomorrow. I had to stop, I ran out of sandpaper.
I also need to get some epoxy. I broke the scales to sand the blade. I tried to remove the pins but I don't have the right tools to do so. Long story short, the scales broke and I will reglue them as they feel pretty tough. I will play with those scales a bit and fill the holes as I'm sure I can use those for a while!
I finished buffing the razor yesterday. I don't think I will be able to get rid of everything by hand, I would need some power tools but here's the result. I will package it in a few minutes to have it honed.
A few pictures of the William Webster. It was going well until I ran out of sandpaper. I'll get some more today and epoxy to fix the scales as I broke them. There's holes in the scales, like termites ate some of the scales... I will fill those, re-sand and I should be able to re-assemble the razor and have it honed!
chainfire
12-07-2009, 08:11 AM
That's a lot of work that really paid off. Congrats on a great restore. :thumbup1:
That's a lot of work that really paid off. Congrats on a great restore. :thumbup1:
Thanks... I tried to fix the scales yesterday (glue + epoxy) as they were cracked and full of holes.
I'm waiting for everything to dry now. I will sand it tonight or somewhere this week. I got something special for the finish...
I still need to work on that blade too...
I'm in the process of sanding the scales at the moment with my marvellous talent of using epoxy, it will take a while (lot to sand). I'm doing a 320 and 600, the 600 seems to work better, don't know why...
I will post some pictures later but so far I sanded both scales but there must be 50% of work left on those. I will probably do it today or tomorrow. It seems that all the holes are now patched, which is good.
Cedrck
12-11-2009, 09:13 PM
Man you are on a roll, that's a lot of work... but looking good so far.
But, doesn't that William Webster seem to have a "blood groove" on the front side and a hollow on the other?
Man you are on a roll, that's a lot of work... but looking good so far.
But, doesn't that William Webster seem to have a "blood groove" on the front side and a hollow on the other?
You're right, there's a groove on one side and hollow on the other. Pictures to come on today's disaster...:ohmy:
All right, pictures of where I am... First two is 24hrs after the epoxy. I never used epoxy before but I will try to get thinner gloves next time.
Yesterday, I sanded the scales and applied a colorant on the epoxy to have something that would match the color of the original scales... The picture didn't look like that at all at the hardware store...
After that, it's where the razor is at post sanding. I ran out of sandpaper again and I will need something that would be more aggressive than 320 to get the epoxy down to an acceptable level...
Cedrck
12-12-2009, 08:56 AM
Where is the disaster?
The scales look fine to me...... and the blade even better.
Where is the disaster?
The scales look fine to me...... and the blade even better.
The colour of the scales... The dye that I used wasn't supposed to come out like that.
I need to go back to the hardware ship and get some more sandpaper. I'm wondering if I shouldn't get something that would be very agressive like 200 or 150 for the epoxy. That stuff is hard and since I'm doing everything by hand, it's taking quite a lot of time...
Yes, the blade is getting there... I'm not happy with it yet but it's coming.
Baldy
12-13-2009, 02:48 AM
That blades coming along well, thats an ambitious restore, well done.
Good luck with the scales though, they have definately seen better days.
Cheers
Grant
That blades coming along well, thats an ambitious restore, well done.
Good luck with the scales though, they have definately seen better days.
Cheers
Grant
Cheers mate.
Well, it's a conspiracy from the hardware store...
I got some sandpaper today. 180-280-400... They didn't have any 600,800 or 1200...
I will need to pay a visit to Bunnings this week-end...
Cedrck
12-15-2009, 10:54 PM
Try any auto parts store. they should have paper up to 2000.
Try any auto parts store. they should have paper up to 2000.
Yes, that's plan B. I need to go to Bunnings (Hardware store). There's one not that far but not on my way either... I'll probably go this week-end.
All right, I got a few sheets of 600, 800 and 1200 to finish the job on that William Webster.
Pictures to follow on Saturday (tomorrow). I will then start the Russian razor! :w00t:
grisha
12-17-2009, 10:04 PM
Good job thanks.
Scissors
12-18-2009, 02:46 AM
If I saw the Wm. Webster only in it's original condition, I'd figure it was useless, a complete goner. So glad—and so impressed!—to be wrong!
Thanks for the comments!
No pictures yet. I took some 120 sandpaper to continue on the William Webster.
I did the scales, 120 was perfect to sand the epoxy quickly. So quickly that I had to patch a few bits. I made a hole and ate a bit too much on one side. They're drying now, tomorrow, I shall continue.
I did some work on the blade, the black spots are slowly going away. I started the Russian straight but still have a good bit to go...
I continued yesterday and today. Here's what I got after 4 hours of sanding (today alone).
Where you can see blue, it's the epoxy. Red/orange is the epoxy with the dye (as I sanded it after the dye). I wasn't happy with the dye anyways.
The first 3 pictures are the scales yesterday before I applied more epoxy. I sanded the scales a bit too much and I missed a few holes.
Next 2 are post sanding today.
The scales feel solid now.
The blade now. William saw better days...
Using a 120 didn't change much even if I felt that a lot of metal was sanded off. The black spots are a bit too deep to be removed.
I'm sure there might be another way around but don't think I will get there with what I have.
If I could do another line on the side that is full, I would get rid of the pitting :closedeye
I'm happy with the results considering what I started with.
Last 2 pictures, the Stiz (Russian Straight). I still have a few pitting stains but I judge it as acceptable. I just need someone to hone it now :001_smile
I will start preparing my next batch of razors to be sent out as I have a couple being worked on at the moment.
Cedrck
12-21-2009, 08:31 AM
Luc, are you wet sanding? You get better results if you have a bowl of water (or running water) to dip the scales in to keep it wet while you sand.
That Stiz should be a great shaver (looks like a stiff edge)
Luc, are you wet sanding? You get better results if you have a bowl of water (or running water) to dip the scales in to keep it wet while you sand.
That Stiz should be a great shaver (looks like a stiff edge)
Nah, I was dry sanding... I could as the sandpaper is wet/dry paper.
I'll give it a go this week end and see if I can get somewhere else with it...
For the Stiz, yes, I will need to have it hone as soon as I get my other straights (I currently have 10 out to be fixed/honed).
Cedrck
12-23-2009, 01:39 PM
Yes, it is much better to wet sand scales like horn, bone and any kind of plastic. You get better, faster and cleaner results... plus you won't have the annoying dust to worry much about... but wait until it's dry to see if you got out previous scratch marks as they are almost invisible when the materiel is wet.
Good luck and keep posting those results.
Scissors
12-23-2009, 08:24 PM
I said this already in regard to the Webster, but it's really remarkable how much it's possible to restore these old razors—each of which, to my uneducated eyes, looked like scrap that would be impossible to improve. Great stuff, Luc! Keep going!!!:thumbup:
Thanks for the good words... I'm an amateur at best and am doing this only for the fun of doing it. Even if the colour is wrong, I loved how the scales of the Webster came out considering that half of the scales were destroyed...
kopio
01-27-2010, 07:28 AM
Luc....you're awesome. Great work! Thanks for showing me this thread, this will come in handy when I start my restore work.
John C
01-27-2010, 07:50 AM
I've been following this thread, and I must say that you've come leaps and bounds with your restore work!
Great job!!
I will be sending the Webster soon to a professional so the restoration can be completed.
ccgnet
02-10-2010, 01:56 PM
Good job!!!
Right, follow-up.
Webster is dead!
I know, a bit more details. It was crooked so it wouldn't be a good shaver. It's with a lot of emotion that I sent it to recycling...
Now, new project! :biggrin:
I got 2 others but I'm not sure with the other 2. This one should be right. I didn't measure it yet but that must be a 6/8 or 7/8. Hamburg Ring, Extra Hollow Ground, The electric razor co. Made in Germany.
I tried to take a few pictures with the flash, without it, different angles so I can capture all the spots and rust!
There's a bit of rust on it but I'm happy with the first hour I spent with it.
I started with 600 and went to 400. I might grab the 220 if it doesn't seem to clean up but 400 seems right. Just need a bit more work. :tongue_sm
Last set.
I might do more sanding tomorrow. Not sure yet.
GreekGuy
07-03-2010, 02:15 PM
Last set.
I might do more sanding tomorrow. Not sure yet.
Are you just dry sanding with 600 grit paper? I have a blade that is in similar condition. Are you using water and going toe to heel? Thanks for any tips, magnificent work btw
Are you just dry sanding with 600 grit paper? I have a blade that is in similar condition. Are you using water and going toe to heel? Thanks for any tips, magnificent work btw
Dry sanding yes.
I do some toe to heel but will finish by going up/down (edge to spine) to give the "honing" effect. It will look better.
I'm happy with the current results, 1hr isn't much but it probably needs a few more sessions.
DavyRay
07-03-2010, 04:45 PM
Man, you can't sand that razor, it's an Electric Razor! Says so, right on it.
Man, you can't sand that razor, it's an Electric Razor! Says so, right on it.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
Then what? I should mail it to you :lol::lol::lol:
I already got an Hamburg Ring, great shaver. The etching on this blade is better than my other one (Also made in Germany and stamped 1914)
Legion
07-07-2010, 03:13 PM
Ah, here's the one I was waiting for! :wink2:
Looking good so far.
I would consider the Hamburg Ring as finished at this stage. I glued the scales back as they were broken at the bottom. The glue doesn't appear like that, the flash is responsible for it.
The scratches aren't that pronounced when you look at it either... I'm happy with the result and will be in the next batch that I send to the honemeister!
Next project, in a few minutes...
Next
Potter's Daisy...
Lots of rust, the edge isn't so bad... The heel will probably need to be regrind and it will need new scales.
Very unfortunate, the Potter broke at the heel, some chip. On the second picture you can kinda see the crack...
It could still be saved but I won't continue any work on this one...
Ru4scuba?
07-21-2010, 08:38 AM
Neat thread Luc...going to have to mark this one for future reference should I get involved in serious restores...
Neat thread Luc...going to have to mark this one for future reference should I get involved in serious restores...
Thanks Chris, mine aren't serious restore... Well, I don't think so...
Everything is done by hand...
I finally learned how to use Brasso properly and am now getting good results from it... I read the can the first time on how to use it, used half the can and it didn't do anything...
I got the power now!! :laugh:
I got another straight in the mail (It's my last restoration, I swear!)... A nice 6/8 Boker... I'm a bit worried as I have a pitting stain not too far from the edge... It might still be savable...
The razor isn't in a bad condition, except for that stain around the middle of the edge on the side that has the etching... (Not the one in the Hollow writing, the one on the second picture, below FULLY)...
The before pictures, I'm still working on it at the moment...
I got another Boker, 1926 King Cutter that might be a bigger challenge as the etching is nice but not the blade... Will post some pictures of that one later...
Updated pictures...
I tried another product as I used Brasso in the past, it works but there might be something else...
LaughingAtFate mentioned a product called "Metal Magic" in the Brasso thread I did (http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=159447). So, I bought a bottle and I think the results speak for themselves...
I did a maybe 1 hour of sanding with 800-1200 on the Boker and I then hit it with 1 hr of buffing with Metal Magic. All by hand, of course...
The razor stinks after but 24hrs later, the scent is gone or I'm used to it! :laugh:
I put a square on where my piece of pitting might kill the straight as it's near the edge...
Now I know how disappointing it could be, I didn't take any pictures before...
Here's another Boker that I have, 5/8 - 1926 - King Cutter...
The etching is still there but almost invisible, it used to have some colours in it but I lost the gold...
I only used Metal Magic on this one (No, I don't have any links with the product)...
There are still stains, the blade was very dirty and looked like it was never cleaned, lots of watermarks and things like that. I reckon a new set of scales and I'm good to go with this one... Took around 20 minutes to clean...
I'm now tempted to re-clean the Hamburg Ring that I did the other week to see if the metal will end up better looking...
Aussieshaver
08-18-2010, 07:38 PM
Both are looking nice Luc! :thumbup1:
thirdeye
08-18-2010, 11:20 PM
Luc, what a great read to and to be able to follow your journey through this restore has been a pleasure. Great job and awesome share.
Kudos to you sir.
Thanks gents! I will report back on the Hamburg Ring tomorrow!
mdunn
08-25-2010, 01:17 AM
theyre looking good mate - ill have to try that metal magic stuff, myself
Thanks gents! I will report back on the Hamburg Ring tomorrow!
I lied I know, I didn't get to the Hamburg Ring yet...
theyre looking good mate - ill have to try that metal magic stuff, myself
I was very surprised by that stuff, very easy to use, very quick. You got to be careful for the etching on the blade... You can still see it on my second 1926 Boker but now it's only the lines around the logo, I lost the colours! :bored:
mdunn
08-25-2010, 02:03 AM
so its more abrasive than brasso? by much?
so its more abrasive than brasso? by much?
I would qualify Brasso as mild and Metal Magic as medium at least.
If it can give you an idea, I probably spent the same time polishing/buffing the Hamburg Ring with Brasso and the Boker with Metal Magic... One of them almost lost is etching...
mdunn
08-25-2010, 05:25 AM
cool. I will need to experiment with this stuff, brasso and mag polish
grisha
08-28-2010, 06:55 AM
Very nice job!!!!!!!!!
I said a while back that I would do the Hamburg Ring with the metal magic product. I just finished.
Overall, it didn't improve the blade much I think but it does look better. I probably spent 15-20 minutes on the whole razor today. So, I could probably do more but I was afraid to remove the etching on the blade. Fortunately, it's still intact! :thumbup1:
Pictures now unless you already skipped what I wrote... :laugh:
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.