View Full Version : Just how far does one go with rust pits?
10-12-2009, 01:39 PM
This last weekend I bought my first straight for restoration. A large Kropp made and ground in Shefield 25mm wide 8/8? I took the pins out, no problem but when I started taking the rust spots off, I saw the pits are worse than I thought. I don't have a belt grinder and am working with a dremel and various abrading attachments. When do I stop wearing away at the metal? When all the pits are gone I may have ruined the grind. Is it acceptable to have pits in a otherwise sanded and smooth blade? I can still clean it up as best I can and then just use it as it is, the edge needs a hone etc but it'll definitely work. I'm being cautious and tentative as it's my first restore and I don't want to wreck a workable blade with over zealous sanding.
10-12-2009, 02:15 PM
The most important factor is blade grind.
Heres a basic "Danger" level to base off of
Full hollow: dont remove too much, leave pitting if you must. Full hollows are very thin and removing too much metal could snap the razor in two.
1/2 - 3/4 hollow: Remove as much pitting as possible. These grinds are not as delicate as Full hollows, and can handle more metal removal with a lessser risk of damaging the blade.
1/4 - Wedge: Remove as much as you want/can. Sand away. You are at little to no risk of breaking your blade by removing too much metal by sanding.
10-12-2009, 03:17 PM
having pits (so long as they are cosmetic, and not on the edge) is fine. Matt is right about the different grinds - ive a full hollow thats I had to leave a fair bit of pitting on, but its still a great shaver
10-13-2009, 07:26 AM
I think too, if you are sanding with the dremel, you need to pay particular attention to the amount of heat you are generating on the edge, especially on a full hollow ground. The edge can, and will, heat up faster than you think and you run the risk of losing the temper on it. If this happens, it's pretty much Sianara for that razor.
While you are sanding it with the dremel, at least try and have the edge laying on some piece of metal that can dissapate the heat quickly. The other option is to cool the blade - often.
+1 on the information given on how much pitting to try and remove on different types of blades. Good advice.
10-13-2009, 12:42 PM
Thanks guys, most of the pitting can be removed near the spine and I'll have to leave some on the thinner parts. As I'm not selling it, I can put up with a few spots. Good tip with the heat build up, I was holding it in my hand and stopping when I felt the heat become uncomfortable. I is interesting having read about the different size wheels and the blended line, I wasn't exactly sure what was meant but with a full hollow in my hands it's quite evident. I'll proceed with caution and maybe post pics
10-15-2009, 05:47 AM
I just started rough sanding on a beat-to-carp Joseph Rogers & Sons with some deep pits and was asking myself this very thing, that is if it would look worse to remove the metal or to have a few remaining pits. I'm guessing this thing was somebody's shaver for a lot of years and it's now pretty obvious exactly where a finger went when they held it! :blush: So thanks for asking and answering my question, all!
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