Strop Test

[BOGARTUS]

Wiss Sure Comfort Razor (trouble getting good and sharp)
Taylor of Old Bond Street soap
Old Original Pure Badger brush
4K/8K Norton
homemade 15" double sided paddle, pasted with 1. and .5 diamond paste
Prima Rhindleder Conk Strop

I have had some trouble getting a few of my razors comfort shave sharp.
So, using the above razor and equipment I started from scratch.

First the following pyramid (first time ever used on this razor)
1-5
3-5
5-5
3-5
3-5
1-5
1-5
1-5

then, 20 strokes on the 1. grit and 30 strokes on the .5 grit. I finished on the hanging strop with 15 strokes on the linen and 25 on the leather. with just razor weight pressure.

I prepared and started my shave, planning to shave only one of my tough spots (right side of neck). Not bad not great. I went back to to the hanging strop. this time 15 more on the linen and 20 more on the leather. This time with more razor pressure on the strop and also tighter strop tension.

Back to the shave. This time left side of neck (my worst area). Greatly improved. This pain in the neck razor never shaved better. Once more back to the strop. Another 20 on the leather. I finished up and had a shave that was Dominica Bayrum friendly ( the ultimate razor test).

I don't know much about the blade compositiion of the razor but,I conclude that the pyramid and the more agressive stropping produced a better edge in this case.

I am interested in any coments and suggestions

[Zig]

Bogartus,,, I don't know very much about all this but I do know very little,,, I've heard that it's always a good idea to use light pressure on the strop, as you say you did at first. When pressure is applied to the blade, as you say you did the second time, we run the risk of ruining the edge. I wish I could remember where I read that; I've read so much that the sources all seem to run together. I never understood the purpose of the pyrimid. If we go from a coarse to finer grit, then back to a coarse, it seems to me that it would undo the finer grits finish. When I sharpen chisle and handplane blades I periodicaly check the edge with a loupe and look to see if the 'scratches' are all about the same size. When they are, I go to finer stones until all the scratches are about the same, then go to the pastes. I do that now with my str8s. That being said there are still the variables of lather, water, blade angle and pressure on the face which will affect 'the shave.' I had trouble with my Dovo SS razor and went to the Norton 4/8K stone, 50-100 passes on the 4, then the 8, to Dovo red rouge, then black, then .5u diamond paste. The shave was good but I used too much pressure on my face and, well, you know,,, anyway, the next shave I stropped linen and leather, shaved with weight-of-the-blade pressure and it was walking into the light. I'd recomend searching for articles on honing and stropping too, as there are several out there, each with their own way of making it all clear. Plus the posts of more knowledgable members than I are very very helpful. Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps. Sounds like you're on the right road.
Zig

[Laager]

I've found that using pressure on the strop (sometimes a lot of pressure) is required to bring a blade up to spec.

I've got blades that barely pass an HHT and cannot be shaved with that respond really well to a good firm stropping. My own hanging strop is just some basic type with a tan finish side and a firmer, heavier black leather back. A good run on the black side followed by a firm run on the tan side results in a blade that's very nice to shave with.

Thus, I'm not sure why pastes are really needed. The old school boys just had a hone and a strop. Some might have had a little graphite impregnated into the strop but that's about it.

It seems to me that the fascination with pastes these days is really an unintentional substitute for good stropping.

[EL Alamein]

The pyramid method negates over-honing. That said I don't really practice one myself. I rely on feeling to aid me.

Using some pressure when stropping is ok IMHO but not too much. You're not doing your razor any good if you use so much pressure that you bow your hanging strop. Really all that I find I need is enough to get feedback telling me the edge is in constant contact with the leather. Hope that helps.

Chris

[AFDavis11]

Pyramids are a guide to honing for those without experience. Pressure on the strop is needed if the razor is poorly honed or dull.

Try a few more pyramids if you desire then finish on 8K, say about 20-40 laps. Then you should get a better shave and be able to use much less pressure stropping. Use the strop draw as your guide to success on the hone.

If your point is that "better" stropping produces a better edge on a dull razor, your correct.

[BOGARTUS]

Thanks to all for the feedback, I will give it a go.

[joel]

Thanks to all for the feedback, I will give it a go.

Is your home-made pasted strop completely flat? If it is not, you're doing more harm than good with it. Also, to save you some time, there is not need to use the linen side of the stop after honing - only use the linen after you have shaved.

[BOGARTUS]

perfectly flat. I used 3'' strips of new wood flooring and glued to that. Otay on the linen strop. Thanks