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View Full Version : Dremel Tips For Polishing and Sanding?



sapito318
07-29-2009, 04:30 PM
I have done a lot of online searching and have found a few tips for polishing and sanding metal, namely over at SRP. There is not really a "concrete" list of tips that are proven to work.

The main reason I ask is that, after beginning hand sanding on a W&B restore, my minor carpal tunnel like symptoms from work are returning, which worries me. It is apparent that I am going to be unable to do hand sanding without making my wrists even worse. (and before you ask, yes I was using a "jig" to sand, my jig being an eraser with sandpaper clamped on with a heavy duty paper clip (http://s3.envato.com/files/104681.jpg) --see link) The eraser jig worked well, but still the sanding motion was really messing with my wrist.

Anyways!

Here is what I am considering doing. I have the 10.8 cordless lithium battery Dremel tool, which is absolutely incredible :lol: very happy with it. I plan on also picking up the Flex-Shaft Attachment (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94685-353-225-01&lpage=none) along with the Dremel Workstation (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=247825-353-5000220-01&lpage=none) (eventually) as well as the Dremel 16 pc Polishing kit (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94741-353-684-01&lpage=none). I feel that this should prove to be a formidable opponent to rust, pitting and so on. I know how a lot of you feel about using power tools for sanding and such on straights, but it is my opinion that if you take it slow and are vary careful you will be allright (but we'll see, yes? :lol:)

I like the flex shaft attachment as it will allow me a greater amount of flexibility with the tool and also allow me to have a lot more control. This would also allow me to sit on the couch while watching Lord of the Rings (extended edition of course!) and sand away at low speeds as to not interrupt the movie :001_smile

The workstation has a variety of uses to me, namely the drill press feature. Although it is certainly not up to par with a $400+ drill press machine, it should be able to tackle pins and wood holes no sweat, as I have complete faith in the Dremel. Also, it allows the Dremel to be mounted vertically and horizantally, essentially changing the Dremel into a "bench" grinder of sorts. Also, woodcraft sells longer sanding rods which should work the the Dremel (I think up to 3") which would allow even more room to work.

Lastly, the polishing kit should work just fine too. I plan on concocting a solution of vaseline or baby oil with a mix of crox powder and use that on the felt pads as my polishing compound, along with just a plain felt pad in between. Also, for sanding I plan on using a split mandrel such as found here (http://straightrazorplace.com/srpwiki/index.php/Split_Mandrel_Sanding)

What are your thoughts on this? Does it seem like a good plan?

(I hope I dont get any of you in trouble with the SWMBO with these ideas :001_rolle)

PolsBirthday
07-29-2009, 08:35 PM
Sounds like fun, I got my dremel 300 rotary tool with a flex shaft and worm light and a case for 30 bucks because somebody returned their 95 dollar dremel without the pittance of bits/accessories it came with (probably like 20 bucks worth) So I bought a nice big set of bits and polishing wheels(almost 8x as much as what came with it originally) for 25 bucks on sale! score! $55 CAD total

On a business note, the flex shaft is really good for close work (though i don't use it for polishing since I like to mount my dremel for that) If you're doing any major restores, pick up a nice flapwheel bit, I had some good luck with one recently.

Soon I will see how the sanding drums fair in scale manufacture, though I might have to switch to the rounded end of my belt sander sooner or later...

leighton
07-29-2009, 09:47 PM
I'll just let you know that if your planning on removing pitting with a dremel.... forget it. It polishes the pits pretty well, but will never remove them. You have to hand sand or live with wavyness in the blade.

Other than that, sounds good!

sapito318
07-29-2009, 10:08 PM
I'll just let you know that if your planning on removing pitting with a dremel.... forget it. It polishes the pits pretty well, but will never remove them. You have to hand sand or live with wavyness in the blade.

Other than that, sounds good!

I can live with hand sanding pitting, that should be OK, but otherwise, I think I would like to stick with the Dremel to save my hands :tongue_sm.
Thanks for the encouragement folks, tips and suggestions are most welcome :001_smile

Fnord5
07-29-2009, 10:20 PM
Harbor freight has lots of "rotary tool" bits and bobs. Often lots cheaper than dremel branded stuff.

Oh, and WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!
Does not matter what you are doing with it, wear them.

You can be polishing with a felt wheel, on your car(wont get thrown in your face by the dremel) and the polishing compound and bits of felt will fly off at incredible speed. Polishing compound and felt dust does not feel good in the eye sockets.:001_rolle

Cut-off wheels explode, no getting around it. I go through 3 about per razor. I have had the chunks bounce off my goggles.

pmast
07-30-2009, 07:09 AM
Harbor freight has lots of "rotary tool" bits and bobs. Often lots cheaper than dremel branded stuff.

Oh, and WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!
Does not matter what you are doing with it, wear them.

You can be polishing with a felt wheel, on your car(wont get thrown in your face by the dremel) and the polishing compound and bits of felt will fly off at incredible speed. Polishing compound and felt dust does not feel good in the eye sockets.:001_rolle

Cut-off wheels explode, no getting around it. I go through 3 about per razor. I have had the chunks bounce off my goggles.



No kidding!! I once had a piece of cut off wheel about the size of a half a grain of rice imbedded in my eye because I was in a hurry and only needed to do one small thing... It was no fun prying it out and thankfully it didn't have enough oomph to make it all the way though. I always wear glasses now.:rolleyes:

sapito318
07-30-2009, 09:43 AM
Fnord, Can you attest to the quality of the Harbor Freight stuff? I was looking at them as well, but was not sure if they would hold up to the job or not.

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 09:48 AM
For consumables, the felt wheels, cutoff disks, yeah, just about as good as the branded stuff, but lot's cheaper.
Harbor freight is a disposable tool store. You buy a special tool for a certain project, and if it still works afterwords BONUS. :lol:

blackfoot
07-30-2009, 09:57 AM
For consumables, the felt wheels, cutoff disks, yeah, just about as good as the branded stuff, but lot's cheaper.
Harbor freight is a disposable tool store. You buy a special tool for a certain project, and if it still works afterwords BONUS. :lol:

That is about right. For consumables, it's a great deal. Everything else, it just depends on the product and what you want. Rotary bits are fine, IMHO.

sapito318
07-30-2009, 10:05 AM
For consumables, the felt wheels, cutoff disks, yeah, just about as good as the branded stuff, but lot's cheaper.
Harbor freight is a disposable tool store. You buy a special tool for a certain project, and if it still works afterwords BONUS. :lol:

LOL, thats kinda what I thougth too. A friend of mine buys lots of tools from there but most of them only last for one project :lol:

Cool, I think I'll pick up a few parts from there. Thanks.

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 10:56 AM
I've actually been thinking of getting a belt sander for scale work.

blackfoot
07-30-2009, 10:58 AM
I've actually been thinking of getting a belt sander for scale work.

What about a detail sander? Some of the tips for that seem to be about the right size.

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 11:01 AM
I mean for flattening, and shaping the scales. I have my dremel for any detail work

sapito318
07-30-2009, 11:02 AM
I plan on using a regular belt sander, and by use of a jig will mount it upside down and clamp it down. Do a Google seach on "Inverted belt sander". Look in the google images too. Some pretty good examples, and they should be pretty simple to make.

sapito318
07-30-2009, 11:04 AM
Does anybody know where I can look for a split mandrel drill bit (preferably offline) that will fit a Dremel tool?

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 11:10 AM
http://www.cooltools.us/category-s/370.htm

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 11:21 AM
Also, i may be interested in piggybacking on your order to shave shipping.

blackfoot
07-30-2009, 11:23 AM
Also, i may be interested in piggybacking on your order to shave shipping.

:rolleyes:

Fnord5
07-30-2009, 11:29 AM
:rolleyes:

Do'h!
Freudian slip!

blackfoot
07-30-2009, 11:35 AM
Do'h!
Freudian slip!

:lol::lol:

sapito318
07-30-2009, 11:48 AM
Do'h!
Freudian slip!

Ha, I thought that was intentional :001_tongu

English
07-31-2009, 08:55 AM
I don't want to put a damper on your exploits but I have been down the same path and was not satisfied with the results.

The dremmel does a good job at things like minor touch ups and cleaning the gimps but the finish you get on the blade is not professional and will disappoint you. You really need a bench grinder fitted to take polishing wheels and a range of cutting and polishing pastes. I don't have a workshop so I didn't go down that route as it is messy and you need space, goggles, gloves and stuff to be safe.

I have the flexible attachment you are talking about and have never used it.

Chromium oxide isn't the best finish and isn't true mirror and it only works at all if you have done a really good job before you hit the chromium oxide, That is difficut with the dremmel but not so bad with hand sanding. As I say, professional standard mirror polishing requires better kit than the dremmel IMHO.

One last thing, it is nice if you can start at a low rev count say 1500 because higher speeds tend to heat the blade and destroy its ability to hold an edge.

I actually think, dremmels are responsible for destroying more vintage razors than they are for restoring razors. Sometimes guys don't understand why the blade won't hone up or take an edge and its actually because the blade has been overheated during its renovation.

These things sound so easy, but I'm afraid they are not. Also one slip with the dremmel and you can send shards of metal towards your face.

Sorry to be so negative.

turbine712
07-31-2009, 09:37 AM
Also I would like to inform people who are using any power tool such as drill press, floor or bench mounted grinders and polishing wheels on bench or floor mounted motors, to be extremely careful when operating said equipment. I work in the prosthetic industry and have seen far too many "de-gloving" injuries from wearing gloves while working on these types of machines. The machines will grab a glove and rip skin, bone and anything that is resisting the pull of the wheel.
All I am saying is be careful.

sapito318
07-31-2009, 09:48 AM
Also I would like to inform people who are using any power tool such as drill press, floor or bench mounted grinders and polishing wheels on bench or floor mounted motors, to be extremely careful when operating said equipment. I work in the prosthetic industry and have seen far too many "de-gloving" injuries from wearing gloves while working on these types of machines. The machines will grab a glove and rip skin, bone and anything that is resisting the pull of the wheel.
All I am saying is be careful.

+1 You do gotta have a lot of patience and caution when using power tools. I know a guy who only has 6 fingers...

Fnord5
07-31-2009, 10:11 AM
Also I would like to inform people who are using any power tool such as drill press, floor or bench mounted grinders and polishing wheels on bench or floor mounted motors, to be extremely careful when operating said equipment. I work in the prosthetic industry and have seen far too many "de-gloving" injuries from wearing gloves while working on these types of machines. The machines will grab a glove and rip skin, bone and anything that is resisting the pull of the wheel.
All I am saying is be careful.

+1000

Skin and flesh cut, gloves and clothes get wrapped up, pulling you in.
It's better to get bit with no gloves on, then chewed up with them.

If you want to keep your hands clean, and keep splinters out, you can wear a pair of latex exam gloves, because they will cut just like skin, and are not strong enough to pull you in if they do get wrapped up.

cityjim
08-01-2009, 03:20 AM
I agree with English . A Dremel is no sub for a good bench grinder . I found Dremel's more of an expense than a usable tool . Always buying new disks and grinding stones . That was the best $2.00 garage sell profit I made off of it .


cityjim

cityjim
08-01-2009, 03:21 AM
Also I would like to inform people who are using any power tool such as drill press, floor or bench mounted grinders and polishing wheels on bench or floor mounted motors, to be extremely careful when operating said equipment. I work in the prosthetic industry and have seen far too many "de-gloving" injuries from wearing gloves while working on these types of machines. The machines will grab a glove and rip skin, bone and anything that is resisting the pull of the wheel.
All I am saying is be careful.

Amen brother .


cityjim

Psywiped
09-13-2011, 10:46 PM
So whats a good reasonable priced bench grinder, how do you use it differently than a dremel and why does it do a better job?