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I can't find my dress shirt size 16x32. I've been using CT who only carries 33. Any suggestions, please and thank you 😊.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
I can't find my dress shirt size 16x32. I've been using CT who only carries 33. Any suggestions, please and thank you 😊.

CT has a second hole in the double-cuff shirts that allows you to "shorten" the sleeves by over half an inch by using the second hole for the cufflinks. This may help.

Of course, if you don't want the double cuffs ...

 

Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
It's a few years now that I've almost only been buying bespoke sartorial shirts. Honestly, I couldn't be happier. Fit, of course, is perfect in every minimal detail and price-point is just a little bit higher than a quality shirt non-custom made.
 
It's a few years now that I've almost only been buying bespoke sartorial shirts. Honestly, I couldn't be happier. Fit, of course, is perfect in every minimal detail and price-point is just a little bit higher than a quality shirt non-custom made.
Thanks sir.
 

Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
So how do I go about finding someone to make me a bespoke shirt?
My friend, I suggest making a google research and find the closest place to where you live. I suppose all major cities in the US should have a boutique. At least this is what happens here in Italy.
 
It's a few years now that I've almost only been buying bespoke sartorial shirts. Honestly, I couldn't be happier. Fit, of course, is perfect in every minimal detail and price-point is just a little bit higher than a quality shirt non-custom made.
In the US the price differential is pretty large for a bespoke shirt. Maybe a made to measure shirt will be in general range but not bespoke.
 

Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
In the US the price differential is pretty large for a bespoke shirt. Maybe a made to measure shirt will be in general range but not bespoke.
Here in Italy "made to measure" literally means that the garment (in this case a shirt) is machine sewn, while "bespoke" literally means it's both made to measure and hand sewn. However, nowadays, as long as it's made to measure, even if machine sewn, it's identified as bespoke or custom made. In this case price point is not that high. My shirts are costing me roughly €100/120 each.
 
Here in Italy "made to measure" literally means that the garment (in this case a shirt) is machine sewn, while "bespoke" literally means it's both made to measure and hand sewn. However, nowadays, as long as it's made to measure, even if machine sewn, it's identified as bespoke or custom made. In this case price point is not that high. My shirts are costing me roughly €100/120 each.
Lot different in US.
 
Here in Italy "made to measure" literally means that the garment (in this case a shirt) is machine sewn, while "bespoke" literally means it's both made to measure and hand sewn. However, nowadays, as long as it's made to measure, even if machine sewn, it's identified as bespoke or custom made. In this case price point is not that high. My shirts are costing me roughly €100/120 each.

That is partially correct. A MTM garment is an existing cutting pattern, which is then adjusted to fit the wearer.

A bespoke item starts to no pattern and then one is created based on both the wearer’s specifications, measurements and other physical proportions. Maybe they stoop or shoulders are different heights etc. these are all taken into consideration.

Might be different in Italy but I was there recently and even a good shirt from a department store will run into 100+ Euros.
 

Marco

B&B's Man in Italy
That is partially correct. A MTM garment is an existing cutting pattern, which is then adjusted to fit the wearer.

A bespoke item starts to no pattern and then one is created based on both the wearer’s specifications, measurements and other physical proportions. Maybe they stoop or shoulders are different heights etc. these are all taken into consideration.

Might be different in Italy but I was there recently and even a good shirt from a department store will run into 100+ Euros.
Sir, I am 100% Italian and of course can only speak for what I know, modestly quite well, here.
The only true difference in Italy between Made to Measure and Bespoke or Custom Made is that the first (MtM) is machine sewn, the second (Bespoke) is hand sewn.
The vast majority of my shirts are Made to Measure and are literally built upon my body starting from zero. I have a tailor who takes all proper measures and uses them, according to my true sizes and my specific requests. For example, the exact size of my collar is 38,5 cm, but I specifically always ask for 39 cm to have that little extra comfort. Again, on my request the left cuff is slightly larger than the right one because I desire to hide my watch underneath. Everything else (materials, collar style, buttons, etc.) is decided by me.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
@Natsoi has it right for how those terms are used in North America.

MTM is based on an existing generic pattern, which is then adjusted to the measurements of the individual customer. So they can adjust for specific waist and chest sizes, arm lengths, and so forth.

Bespoke means an individual pattern created from scratch for the specific customer. So one can account with great precision for any number of physical oddities. The benefits of bespoke over MTM are most noticeable for an unusually shaped client.

Either MTM or bespoke can have machine stitching (but probably hand fed) or actual hand sewing ... but likely more hand sewing in bespoke.

This is not to discount what @Marco said about the Italian use of the terms, but to clarify the difference in use between Italy and the English speaking world.
 
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